Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2002 GLS 2.0 - Misfire In Rain Only And Check Engine Light Flashes
Apr 21, 2015
My 2002 Jetta GLS 2.0 is misfiring only when it rains out. I go to start the car and the car idles extremely rough and seems like it wants to die. I checked out the codes for the check engine light and I got misfire codes p0304 and p0300. Which is a general misfire detected, and misfire on cylinder 4. I noticed that when I misted the alternator during the day around 70 degrees with the car running the car would misfire and almost die out. I know you are not supposed to get the alternator wet, but keep in mind i did not soak it I misted water on it. I misted the coil pack and nothing happened. I replaced the spark plugs and wires a few days ago. But as soon as it rains my car does not idle right and the check engine light flashes.
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On my way to work, my check engine light started blinking and car was sputtering (real bad on idle). I ran the code and it came back with misfires codes. I changed the coils/plugs, fuel filter and fuel pump last year. Can the coils be bad already? When I clear the codes the car will run fine for a little while. But after a couple miles CEL will blink and the car will run roughly again.
Car : 2004 Golf 2.0
Codes:
16684: random multiple misfires
16648: fuel injector #2 short to ground
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So last Thursday I started my car up in the blistering cold and it ran fine for about a minute and started to misfire so I shut it off. It hasn't ran since. When that happened the check engine light was blinking because of the misfire. I didn't have a code reader at the time to read it. now that I got a code reader the damn thing isn't throwing any codes. it spits and sputters sometimes. I've had no previous problems with the car. Thinking It might be a weak fuel pump or bad coils and in not sure how to test them.
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I'm new to the VW world and just bought a 2002 Jetta 1.6SR about two weeks ago. I just realized that when I turn the ignition on before cranking, all the lights come up except the CEL and traction control light. There are no codes stored when we checked it with a scanner. I took apart the cluster today to check if someone had taped in front of the LED but there was nothing, and the LED was intact, it just won't light up! I put everything back together and when I turned the ignition on.
I realized that the traction control light came on for the first time but still nothing for the CEL. I turned ignition off and on again, this time both the traction control and CEL didn't come on. Whenever I unplug the cluster and install it again, the traction control light will come on once, then if I turn the ignition off then on again, it will stop working. I even removed the MAF sensor to test the CEL but it never came on! All the fuses are intact as well... So my question is, is this a faulty cluster, LED, or is something wrong with my ECU?
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When you give it a decent amount of acceleration it starts to hesitate and kind of jump, the engine light flashes it kinda sounds like it want to stall. I'm not to good with the turbo motors. The car is a 2000 golf.
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I have a 2003 vw golf, 5 speed. check engine light flashes after a big rain. The mechanic has replaced the fuse box and spark plugs, but the problem continues.
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I have a 2000 VW Jetta 2.0l AEG engine with 190,000 miles and check engine code P0303 for the 2nd time in 3 months. I had this same code 3 months and 3000 miles ago and found the spark plug #3 to be fouled up. All other plugs and wires seemed to be okay so I replaced plug #3 and the problem went away. I suppose after I take off the upper intake manifold I am going to find the same plug #3 to be fouled up again. The engine is a typical AEG that I have to add 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles as it has been burning the same amount of oil since I acquired the car at 135,000 miles. I have read that the wrong piston rings were installed from the factory on a large number of these engines and VW says that if less than 1 quart of oil is burned after 7500 miles it is normal. I really don't feel like spending 2 hours every 3000 miles to replace plug #3 ? It might be time to part ways with my 2nd VW. As a side note, this car has been averaging 35.5 mpg over the last 55,000 miles that includes 50% city/ 50% highway driving. I coast to red lights and don't accelerate quickly with the 5 speed manual transmission to achieve hybrid like fuel efficiency.
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The problem that causes the check engine light to come on cannot be traced. The diagnosis is multi engine misfire. The dealer has checked and recheckedbut problem still exists. The last time my mechanic changed spark plugs he noticed oil on one of the plugs he removed in the rear side of the engine. He replaced the plug with the rest of them. Could it be that one or more of the spark plugs are sucking oil and causes the misfire? If so what could be the cause of that. Do I need a full tuneup? My dealer recommends replacing the cam shaft pulley because it's loose and this may or may not solve the problem. I'm not a mechanic but it appears as if the problem has something to do with the spark plugs sucking oil since the check engine light might go ou for a week or so and then come back on for a while. Lastly is it dangerous to keep driving the car especially on long trips?
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I have an 02 Dodge Caravan 3.3 L Flex . It had initially stalled and wouldn't start. Check engine light was on. Had it towed to a Cert Mech. He said it needed a "Major" tune-up. I let him do this. It included: New Coilpak, plugs, plug wires, cam-sensor, crank sensor. That's what was on 1st invoice.
It started, but was still running very rough. He then recommend a new PCM. After choking on his estimate, and paying the initial invoice, I decided to let someone else have at it. Mech # 2 installed a "Rebuilt" PCM, New Battery, and a PCV Valve.
It runs good now BUT, ...It has this weird idle Misfire. The only time it happens is at a stop light when at idle. And it doesnt do it all the time. This check engine light is not on... At this point, all I want to do is sell it.I have over 1K in repair costs and still can't get rid of this misfire.
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My check engine light came on the other day, with no symptoms or problems. Today I stopped at the Auto Parts store and had the codes read. They were P0440, P0441, P0446, and P0301. They are for the EVAP system and misfire.
I had read here that one of the codes could be for the gas cap so I tightened it and then, also as read on here, disconnected the negative 12 V battery cable to perhaps clear the check engine light. I was curious.
When I started the car again, I now have not only the check engine light, but the red triangle exclamation point. How would you proceed? The 12 volt battery is around 5 years old. The entire exhaust system was replaced last year.(not O2 sensors though)
The hybrid battery was replaced at 70,000 miles and I now have 110,000 miles on it. I really wonder why disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it caused more error lights to appear? Also, the Auto parts guy said his code reader was fine for my car but I seem to remember here that there may be a special Prius one.
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For the last couple years the engine light would come on solid every once in a while - read codes for the thermostat - my father-in-law checked it out (mechanic) and said it was fine and that the Jetta was being too liberal with it's engine light.
Engine light recently has started to come on more often. Started using premium gas - CEL went away for a few months. But now it keeps coming on, and once in a while flashes and the car runs rough. But it's intermittent - it'll go and come. Codes are:
16804 - catalyst system bank 1: efficiency below threshold
16684 - error in mapped cooling system
16685 - cylinder #1 misfire detected
Seems to me that the cylinder misfire would be the main issue here. I've changed the spark plugs pretty recently. Catalytic converter not too long ago also. I haven't changed the coil pack since I first got it like 6-7 years ago. With all the issues these years of VW's have had with coil packs, I'm fairly certain I need a new coil pack. O2 sensor?
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So, my check engine light has been on for months. I knew that I needed a new oxygen sensor (block 1-pre-cat), so I replaced it today after the car began to sputter and misfire. Well, I thought that would fix the problem, but it hasn't. Some of the hesitation is gone, but the sputtering is still very bad. I'm going to replace the spark plugs tomorrow and see if that works. I was also told to clean out the catalytic converter, but I don't know how to take it off. It wouldn't hurt to just bang out all the debris. Any DIY on taking off a catalytic converter for a 2000 VW Golf GTI 1.8T?
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My daughter's 2000 Jetta with a 2L has an engine light and codes that state Misfire on 1 and 4. It is intermittent as it only misfires once in a while.. She is in Rolla MO, and I am in Detroit MI. A couple of years ago the car died when she was home and I found a swollen/cracked coil pack. I replaced it with an aftermarket. The plugs and wires were replaced about 30k ago with OEM parts. I am tempted to have the son in-law replace the coil pack with a Bosch unit.
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What are the common misfire problems with the mk4 R32? My R is acting funny every once in a while it runs perfect then some other times it seems to big and the check engine light starts to blink but doesn't stay on I ran for codes and it said I had a miss fire but after that the code never came up again but it still blinks.
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I got a 1986 Camaro 5 speed 350 4 barrel carb and the check engine light flashes on and off, when it comes on the engine idles really low and when it goes off it runs normal. I've changed the ignition control module twice already because it wouldn't start. i change the ignition coil because thought that was messing the module up. I hooked a obd ll and 1scanner too the car but wouldn't respond.
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While I am driving the car it will start to die and skip. Happens randomly. Today I was driving up a small hill and it went quits on me started lurching with check engine light coming on and off. The car will turn over and start, but only for a few seconds before dying again.
Seems to happen when the car is running for a while. Also the ABS light flashes on then off randomly while driving sometimes although It hasn't been an issue. Will be checking tomorrow to see if it starts.
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I am a grad student hoping my car will hang in there till graduation next year. I have about 227,000 miles on my Honda Accord Wagon and recently the odometer stopped working, S light started flashing, and the check engine light came on. This only happens sometimes, and the check engine light does not always come on when the S light flashes and odometer stops working. I've continued driving the car to see what happens and so far, no problems have come up. I have driven another 1000 miles and am hoping I can just ignore the problem and continue driving the vehicle since I am not in a position to fix it or get a new car.
Recently I passed my California emissions test and she seems to be running smooth. Any thoughts or warnings as to why sometimes these signals happen?
I have to drive with GPS on all the time to know my speed, but other than that I feel OK.
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Having some issues with my 2003 Alero 4 cylinder. Upon start the entire engine shudders and the check engine light flashes. I have to turn it off and turn it on and it will stop most of the time. I've taken it in and the mechanics can't get it to reproduce the same issue for them. Just replaced all four plugs, boots, ignition coil.
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I have a BMW 740I that has over 200,000 miles on the clock, I have noticed in the past couple of day that the check engine light when I turn on the ignition that it flashes then becomes still, what the problem could be, and if it is safe to drive?
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So for the past few weeks my check engine light has been on. I have a mechanic friend that scanned the computer and says i have a running lean code.... says it could be anything. So i have been driving the car since and now the epc light and drive train lights are coming on... car revs up and down and sounds like is going to die... got the car scanned and says something about the throttle position sensor... before all the lights started coming on i got my fuel pump replaced..... could a faulty fuel pump be the cause? I had my mechanic, clean the throttle body and it ran good for a few days... now the problem is back... I have a 2004 1.8 gti. Do i have to replace the throttle position sensor? Fuel pump again? New throttle body again? I read somewhere on here that a guy replaced some wires near the ECM and the problem went away...
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I was in cruise control at 50 and pressed and held the increase speed button to pass a car and once i got to 55 and still holding it the check engine light flashed twice a second until i released the increase speed button. Are you not suppose hold that button? Could this be APR related? I also noticed that the speed doesn't matter, it could be at any speed just hold it for like 5 seconds...
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