I have a 02 gti with 1.8t and tiptronic trans. Anyways my gf said she was driving and traction light/battery light came on car started slowing down when she tried to accelerate. Said brakes were stuff to and car shut off..what would cause this. I had a maf code over the weekend i cleared.
View 17 RepliesI have a stage 2 2002 GTI with 135k & I'm having an issue once in a while where if I go WOT the car will only boost up to about 5 (around there, don't remember) psi but if I let go and accelerate again, it'll boost normally again.
No lights or CEL comes on when it happens though. I tried searching for any info but not sure what direction to look at. I have a stock K03S, Forge DV, 3" Turboback, Short Ram Intake, FMIC. Bad N75 or DV?
2002 Jetta 2.0.... car was jerking when accelerating and check engine light was flashing, severe loss of power and when stopped at lights it would shake and the rpms would drop and go back up... took it in and was told to get the coil pack replaced. One week later new coil pack - check engine light is back on and yesterday same problem (car was idling rough, and severe jerking/flashing check engine light happened again). Took it to autozone to read the code it is giving P0420.... The shop said i might need new plugs and wires, which were replaced with bosch parts one year ago. Any chances these went bad so quickly?
View 3 RepliesI purchased a 2002 gti in Febuary with 161k miles. I believe it was a couple weeks after I bought it - it started making this creaking sound. At first it was more rare to hear it but it occurred going on uneven surfaces like up a steep hill or around an uneven turn or even stopping and going. It basically happened when the front end pitched up/down. It sounds almost like a rubber creaking or even plastic. (Some sort of bushing maybe? I'm no expert) Now it is rare for it not to make the creaking when taking off or slowing to a stop. It only occurs at lower speeds like right when taking off or at the very end of the stop right before the actual stop.
It will even slightly make the noise when accelerating in second gear right after shifting. (This is occasional) When I come to a complete stop and turn the wheel side to side ot will make the sound for a couple of turns and then go away. I have tried rocking the car and pushing down on it to replicate the sound. No luck. I lubricated various bushings and parts with silicon. It seemed to fix it but it only lasted for a few hours. (This could've been coincidental) It doesn't make the sound 100% of the time though. Probably at least 90% though when coming to a stop and going. It seems as the environmental factors (Temp and humidity) have a small effect on the creaking. I have a neuspeed 25mm front swaybar with endlinks.
What happened to my 02 mk4 Jetta after start up and engine failure.
I started the engine, and noticed a high squealing sound just like a loose fan belt, as I backed out my driveway the Battery light came on and engine died, when I tried to re-start the engine it doesn't make any cranking sound just a whirring sound.
I have a 2002 jetta 1.8t that overheated on me out of no where i have read some post and couldn't really find what i need it never overheated on me before and this was the first time and when ever i open the reservoir where you put in coolant everything spills out its my first time owning a volkswagen, it happens as soon as i start driving like 30 secs and temperature starts to rise.
View 3 RepliesMy AC is slowing down and needed diagnostics. Fan system is fine. So I hooked up my manifold guage set from HF and got 90 on both high and low static, and 35/175 under load. Temp was 83 Fahrenheit with 36% humidity.
My diagnosis - refrigerant low. (i.e. low/low)
So what kind of quantity can I assume I'm down? Do these german ac run on the high side? I'm going to pour in the PAG 46 myself through the yellow line, and that runs roughly 5 to 1 to the refrigerant. NO SEALANT. Just a 12 ounce can of 134a and 3 ounces of PAG 46.
Just to verify - it is PAG 46 for the 2004 Jetta 2.0 GLS?
My wife's Jetta slows down for a sec or so while driving. I've noticed it when you in 5th gear and just cruising down the road. it almost feels like the brakes are being applied a little for just a sec then it goes away but it will keep doing it every now and then. I cant make it do it. It just does it. I don't know if it would do it in any other gear cause i'm just accelerating and not staying at a constant speed so it might but you cant tell. the car seems to run well. My wife drives it a lot more than me so she complains all the time! gotta get it fixed!
Also, I believe the heater core is leaking. you can smell antifreeze when the heater is running slightly. And she says, but i have not seen this yet that the abs and the other traction light or whatever that are on the dash that has been on since we've bought the car, shut off and the brakes feel like they are not working...that's what she told me so I'm not sure how to explain it but want to mention incase it has something to do with the first prob! they come back on and everything is normal ...well with the brakes anyway.
I have a boost gauge that i want to put on just to make sure it's making boost. it doesn't seem as fast as it did but i don't drive it every day either. the motor is stock with a 2 1/2" exhaust with a 2 chamber Flowmaster from the turbo back so the engine light comes on but i just checked and they codes are for that missing cat
Looking for some hint regarding V6 AUE ? Regardless if engine is warm or cold, sometimes happens to me that during driving, while slowing down and pressing on clutch pedal, revs just drop down to 0 and engine shuts down (vehicle still moving). This usually happens while changing gears from 3rd to 2nd on low speeds in city, or while slowing down to full stop in 2nd gear and pressing clutch pedal.
While this happens, I quickly switch off the ignition and start the engine again, which is tricky and potentially dangerous, since vehicle is still moving but my power steering and brakes are not functioning because of stopped engine.
Some relevant info...I have K&N cone air filter intake and ECU is remapped by BTS Racing (German tuning house).
Car is running and pulling normally. In all other regimes of driving, there are no issues or whatsoever.
I have owned a 2007 2nd Gen Prius for about a month in a half. I love my Prius although I purchased it with high miles (just under 200K) I felt a little adventurous and took it on a rather lengthy trip from Ohio to Nebraska and then to South Dakota and back home) a few weeks ago and I've noticed a few things since.
Before this trip I could let my car coast down slight grades or hills with no issue. The car just coasted like normal which save gas of course. Well now on slight hills it feels as if the car is down shifting. It actually slows itself down slightly. On steeper grades it will still coast but up until a few weeks ago I could literally coast on a slight grade. Not so anymore.
Also when I accelerate now sometimes when I lift my foot off the accelerator it bucks or jerks. It's not very violent but noticeable. I didn't experience any of these issues before the trip. I was wondering if the rocky back gravel roads of Nebraska could be a contributing factor in any of this or perhaps the steep hills of Rapid City South Dakota (SD was when I first noticed the reduction in coasting)
I've been in to see the Toyota Service department In my area and of course they told me that, "Those Prii just drive like that". I refuse to accept that since I am very sensitive to changes in drivability in any vehicle that I own and I know that my Prius operates and feels differently than it did before.
I have a 2.0. Custom gt28 turbo project. Been up and running for awhile now. Took it on a 4 hr trip home and drove it back.
All of a sudden after the holidays it started to overheat and I had no heat. It will not overheat when idling. I replaced the thermostat recently. Lower hose gets warm when it opens. I replaced the green top sensor. I have done a wire tuck etc and I am running a closed coolant system. I believe I have gotten the air out of the system.
It will idle all day at 190. But as soon as I drive and accelerate hard or go over 50 mph it overheats and will not cool off unless I pull over and turn the car off. It will steam as if it's losing coolant somewhere but I think it's at the cap (too much pressure?).
I am thinking water pump but I am not sure. I got the car with 124k miles I'm at 127000. I was told timing was done at 90 could the pump be failing already? Also when it overheats I get a cel for misfire is that normal?
The Electronic Power Control light in my 1999.5 Jetta GLS VR6 came on a day or two ago. Now it hesitates like crazy even after I've already pulled out and am trying to accelerate. Is there any common problem/malfunction that would cause the light to come on, and is there any correlation between the light and this symptom? Also, the check engine light came on.
View 24 RepliesReally weird thing is going on with my 03 1.8t Jetta, sometimes when I am driving the battery light will come on. It will turn off when I slow down but will turn back on as soon as I accelerate. After a while of this happening I will hear a burst of air and the car will jerk back a little bit then drive perfectly normal. I've looked all over google and posted in a local Euro car group`and haven't found anything.
View 1 RepliesMy Jetta wagon with 131K on it has a ping when I accelerate hard. I know it's not bad gas, but probably a carbon buildup. I've done a few seafoams that had some effect, but not much. I'm gonna do the water spray/steam next. Which components are prone to carbon buildup in these gassers that would cause ping?
View 4 RepliesI noticed last night that my cars turbo had a much louder whining noise when I accelerate. There is no blow off, doesn't sound like much air coming in and also there is not very much boost being put out at all. I've come to think that it may be a loose seal or gasket along the way but I'm sure hoping it isn't a pooched turbo... I don't have a boost gauge so checking boost pressure isn't an option right now. Just noticed from putting foot down but no boost.
View 1 RepliesYou ever hear hondas reverse? Its that kind of noise. Not extremely loud, but not dead quiet. I'll be in second, bring it to about 3k rpm, and let off the gas, and let it whined down in second. It makes the whining noise. then if I slowly accelerate in second, above 2.5k rpm, it will make the whine again. I don't think it does it under hard acceleration. The car has been running fine. idk what it would be, hopefully not a transmission problem, though I've read some 370z's do this too, the syncros trying to catch up? needs a trani flush? my transmission going? Not sure.
View 3 RepliesCrank position sensor was replaced a few months ago. After that noticed that it would not accelerate properly from a standing start. No jerking or anything, but way back it used to be able to spin the front tires a bit, but now not getting that needed acceleration. After hitting 15 or 20 mph, then it's back to normal and road and highway speeds are nice with power.
The reason the crank position sensor was replace was on account of intermittent no starts. That's gone away, but now this acceleration problem. Could it be a leaking air from the outside into the intercooler? Would a VAGCOMM show what's going on? Golf TDI 2005...
Okay I have a 2001 Vw Jetta 1.8t Wolfsberg.
I have done a few mods:
- Oil catch can
- Boost gauge
- New turbo (5000 miles old)
- Brake booster mod
- PCV system fixed and some hose deletes (that make the intake manifold have one line off of it rather than two)
- Timing belt/ pulleys
- Accessory belt / pulley
- A few other things but nothing to cause this
The car will do this randomly. And I mean once every two weeks of that. I will go to accelerate and the boost gauge says the "boost" is at zero and no matter how much I give it gas, it won't go past zero and stutters. But it stops almost as fast as it starts. I don't get it...
My catch can has 3/4" line to about 1/2" or so, that meets the oil catch can. (Ebay with the blue hose.) I have new plugs, all new (dealership recommended) lubes, all kinds of new small odds and ends. But it's never done this before. (3rd time now in a month..)
So I just bought a 2000 MK4 Jetta for a $1000, its been ok, replaced the breaks, rear calipers, swapped in new headlight socket, swapped in amber tails, new plug wires, new drive belt, water pump/ timing belt all new.
Car has 173,xxx and i drive in pretty bad traffic daily, there are times when i am going to accelerate and between 2-3k RPM it feels like the clutch disengages then re-engages for a split second. then continues to drive normal, happens 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. Is this the clutch slipping? will it be fixed if i were to order a new clutch kit? I am on a budget and do all my own work, so i can't afford to buy a new clutch kit and have this not fix the problem.
Also, the car gets a little wiley on the free way, feels like its the struts, but the steering wheel vibrates a bit, i just found out the PO had different rims on the car before. So the tires might need to be balanced. I JUST Ordered new Racelands hopefully to stop the creaking/bounciness of the suspension. How to get this steering in check.
The past couple days when driving to school in the morning i've been noticing that my car starts to rattle and struggles to accelerate once I pull out of my driveway. Once i get to the next stop sign to take off the car runs fine like nothing ever happened. My check engine light doesn't come on though. I usually let the car sit for about 30 seconds to a minute before i start to move the car. Mods I have are Unitronic stage 2, Forge 007p DV with yellow spring, and 3" downpipe.
View 1 RepliesA grinding/crunching noise recently started happening to my 2001 vw vr6 12v.seems to be coming from the front of the car but only when i accelerate. I hear it through all the gears and am a little concerned as winter is approaching.
View 1 Replies