My Jetta wagon with 131K on it has a ping when I accelerate hard. I know it's not bad gas, but probably a carbon buildup. I've done a few seafoams that had some effect, but not much. I'm gonna do the water spray/steam next. Which components are prone to carbon buildup in these gassers that would cause ping?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2.0. Custom gt28 turbo project. Been up and running for awhile now. Took it on a 4 hr trip home and drove it back.
All of a sudden after the holidays it started to overheat and I had no heat. It will not overheat when idling. I replaced the thermostat recently. Lower hose gets warm when it opens. I replaced the green top sensor. I have done a wire tuck etc and I am running a closed coolant system. I believe I have gotten the air out of the system.
It will idle all day at 190. But as soon as I drive and accelerate hard or go over 50 mph it overheats and will not cool off unless I pull over and turn the car off. It will steam as if it's losing coolant somewhere but I think it's at the cap (too much pressure?).
I am thinking water pump but I am not sure. I got the car with 124k miles I'm at 127000. I was told timing was done at 90 could the pump be failing already? Also when it overheats I get a cel for misfire is that normal?
My 2001 Corolla w/80k developing a considerably loud spark knock/engine pinging noise under acceleration. It throws no codes but pings like crazy and it never used to. It's happened gradual over a long period of time. I've cleaned the throttle body and have done all regular tune up items with no improvement. It doesn't ping at all on 93 octane, does some on 89 and terribly so on 87. Why is this? Does the 93 octane just act a a richer mixture of fuel to alleviate the ping? Should this sign point me in the direction that it's definately a lean issue causing the pinging?
View 13 Replies2012 2.5l engine pings softly when I accelerate from a stop. I reported this at my last dealer service and the service manager recommended using Top Tier gas. He said it would take a few tanks to clean everything out. I'm happy to report that the car accelerates much more smoothly and my mileage has improved marginally. But the ping still exists. Engine is not throwing any codes (no check engine light).
On another note, the engine makes a growling sound on cold starts. I did some digging and found a TSB that addresses that issue. Could the engine pinging be related? I have about 4k miles before the bumper-to-bumper warranty runs out.
Had it before, code p1401. Changed out dpfe and it worked for 6 months. Now spark knock again. Now though I have no codes though. No vacuum leaks that I can find. New egr from before I had the problem. I applied vacuum to the green hose and it stumbled so the ports should be ok. Snytime I go above 3000 rpm i get the pinging. I replaced the dpfe again and no difference.
View 3 RepliesSo we finally found a travel trailer and picked it up yesterday. It is a 2008 Jayco 29A. Fiberglass with aluminum frame. 5345 dry weight, so shouldn't be too taxing on the Ex, but we towed it through parts of the NC mountains to get home and on steep grades it would downshift to 2nd gear and I would hear what sounded to me like pinging from the engine.
As far as I know the plugs are original, so should I just go ahead and replace them, or there also a possibility that this is just the notorious exhaust manifold leak? If all exhaust manifold bolts are still intact, is there a good test to know if it is the exhaust? No engine codes were thrown. The truck has 72k miles on it now.
2002 Jetta 2.0.... car was jerking when accelerating and check engine light was flashing, severe loss of power and when stopped at lights it would shake and the rpms would drop and go back up... took it in and was told to get the coil pack replaced. One week later new coil pack - check engine light is back on and yesterday same problem (car was idling rough, and severe jerking/flashing check engine light happened again). Took it to autozone to read the code it is giving P0420.... The shop said i might need new plugs and wires, which were replaced with bosch parts one year ago. Any chances these went bad so quickly?
View 3 RepliesI recently picked up a 2000 jetta vr6 for a very good price its a glx I have owned a vr6 before and done timing chains myself on it this one is a glx , I am having 5 fault engine codes on my vagcom they are cam position sensor , knock sensor, secondary injection pump, and mass air flow it ran fine 100 miles yesterday this morning the epc came on then went off and ran bad can these codes all be related or do I have to replace each sensor individually..
View 9 RepliesMy Mustang GT pings when accelerating up a grade of at least 3 degrees, beyond 40MPH. The pinging is reduced when I burn premium fuel, but it nevertheless still pings. I cannot drive beyond 50MPH over mountainous roads due to loud pinging which I am afraid will damage the engine. I have replaced the O2 sensors which were generating codes. No mechanic whom I have approached can tell me definitively how to eliminate the pinging. Otherwise, the engine, with its 144,00 milers runs perfectly.
View 5 RepliesI drive a 2004 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 and wound up doing a bit of unexpected rock crawling on a recent camping trip. After a whole lot of cussing and praying I got out with a couple of dents. Since then, I started to notice a strange noise. When I shift from 2nd to 3rd (~2500 rpm) and start to accelerate, I hear a metallic grinding/pinging for roughly a second. The clutch is fully released and it happens whether or not the engine is hot. It's the 2.7 liter 4 cylinder.
View 1 Replies01 jetta vr6 5 speed. Alright so earlier today I pulled out the driveway. (Hard) was in 1st gear around 3 or 4 grand and I stomped it. Got to 6 grand and hit 2nd. Took 2nd to 6 grand and let of around 60 mph. After that I short shifted into 3rd, 4th, then 5th. I noticed going into fith was hard. Had kinda rev match to get it. I stayed in 5th till I got to my destination roughly 4 miles. When I came back out to leave I had a hell of a time getting it into reverse. On my way home it was extremely hard to shift and now when the car is running I cant get it into any gear. This is what I did.
Car shifts fine with car off.
Car will not shift with engine running.
When started in gear with clutch depressed I can still let the clutch out and stall the car.
When starting car while in gear with the clutch NOT DEPRESSED the car jumps forward.
I can figure it out ove tried re adjusting the linkage. Nothing.
I have a 1.8T with 152kmiles
Recently, both the coolant reservoir 'Y' connector and the driver side coolant flange cracked and I was shooting G12 all over the engine. I've replaced both of the parts and the coolant temp sensor with a "green top". Reservoir was refilled with the proper ratio of G12 to distilled water, ran for a bit and topped off accordingly.
This morning I started my drive to work and the engine temp was at 0 for a minute or so and started to climb slowly to 190. It stayed at 190 until I took the exit to the highway and the temp slowly started to rise while I was at 60mph. I immediately turned around and went back home with the heat cranked to high. With the heat on, the engine temp would slowly go down but then rise again if I, A. turned the heat off or B. made a hard pull up to ~55+mph.
I popped the hood and the coolant was not boiling and I couldn't see/smell/hear any leak. could this be the thermostat or is this a water pump issue? I plan on taking the thermostat off and checking the pump empellars for any shards. I'm not sure but I do believe the water pump was replaced by my parents while I was on deployment.
2003 1.8t gti ... Today when I got in my car...it fired up perfectly normal but when I got in it from leaving school it took 5min to fire up. The engine turned over but wouldn't fire all the time as if the spark plugs were bad. So I bought new NGK spark plugs and had the same issue just a little bit ago.
I know the obvious thing would be to change the ignition coils but they're out of stock everywhere so I have to have them shipped. My question is is the ignition coils the problem? They looked a bit worn but nothing serious.
I have a 2000 VR6 M6. I will do my best to describe the problem I am having and what I have done so far.
I get a knock when going in to 1st, 2nd or reverse. If I let the clutch out real easy I will not get it. If I go in to 1st depress the clutch and then move forward again it is not there. Same with reverse, go in to reverse and I get it but depress the clutch and then let it out it does not happen. When going from 1st to second during normal diving I will get it, and leaving from second I get it also.
What I have done and looked at so far, replaced the left side mount and the dog bone. Inspected all other items such as the control arms, body mounts and stabilizer bar. I have also changed the fluid with Synthetic 75w90. Axles look pretty good and I do not suspect it is there.
Will overfilling transmission fluid cause hard shifts? I used ~4.3 quarts to refill. How much should I drain out? My check engine light came on.
Basically, I am having hard shifts from 2-3 and 3-4 in tip mode and auto. more tip mode tho.
-I did a complete solenoid change b/c of cold start problem with n92 solenoid.
Fixed the cold start shifting out of first.
-Did a trans fluid change with Mercon V ATF Fluid works fine.
-Just changed oil on 4th of July last week.
Yesterday my check engine light came on. It's been about 500 miles since the solenoid change/trans fluid change, and 100 miles since the oil change.
Now my Mk4 is having this obnoxious shifting. I am thinking I possibly added too much trans fluid into my system as I do not have the VAGcom tool.
I drained out (bone dry drain till no more dripping from check/drain plug), roughly 4 quarts. I added 4.3 give or take 0.1 quarts back into the car.
Now I'm worried because everywhere I'm reading says anywhere from as little as 2.1 quarts to 3.5 quarts.
Should I drain out 0.5 quarts (because I know theres over 4 in there now) to make it 3.5 quarts?
Or should I just redrain the whole thing and start by measure one quart at a time?
I replaced the knock sensor because I was getting the p0327 for the front knock sensor. Drove it again and still sputtering and CEL came back. What are other causes of this? N75 solenoid? Low fuel pressure?? It has a spectre air filter kit on it. Didn't know if this would do it. I cleaned maf. Just put new plugs in it too.
View 5 RepliesI can't figure if it's a TB issue as I've just had it replaced or a mount problem. I only get the knock on biting point idle and pull away under load. This noise is driving me insane.
View 2 RepliesI have a 98 Toyota 4Runner, which just started what I'm told is pinging or knocking on "hard accelerations", like accelerating on the merge lane when I see cars coming up behind me in the lane I want to merge into, or going uphill. i have 258,000 miles, and have the SUV serviced regularly and get things fixed when they need it. I told the dealer about it a month ago when I had regular servicing, and he did something to clean the fuel injector, and suggested I try 89 octane (he specifically recommended Sunoco), and if that worked I could try going back to 87 octane (Sunoco was his recommendation again). I did as he suggested, and the pinging/knocking seemed to get better with 89, but returned with 87. I read the Q&A on this, but still have questions. Why did this just start after 14 years? Should I do anything about, in other words is it harmful? If so, what should I do? Does the brand of gasoline have anything to do with this, or anything else for that matter? I am hoping to keep the SUV for a couple more years (300,000 miles), maybe longer.
View 19 RepliesI own a stock GS300 2007 RWD doing about 80K miles here in Thailand. I am facing one critical issue with my ride. While driving normally if I hit the brake hard the car seems to loose power then there is a hard knock from the rear which knocks the car forward. I think it is caused from the downshift of the gear, but I am not quite sure. It happens often in the same kind of situation.
View 5 RepliesSo after owning my R for just over a week I've noticed that when I accelerate hard or let off the throttle the shifter seems to move quite a bit. Is this normal with the stock mounts or is it something I should have looked at? I know the stock mounts are rubber to aid in isolating the vibration of the engine but it seems like the shifter moves a little more than I would expect.
View 1 Replies2007 Rabbit shakes quite hard when i accelerate mainly on any type of incline and only between 35-60 mph. When i take it to the shop they cant find a problem.
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