Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2002 - No Start / Not Even Turning Over
Sep 30, 2014
2 weeks ago my fans stayed on all day and killed my battery. Did a bunch of research and found that the FCM would be a possible place to start. FCM was literally in pieces under the battery. Replaced it with a new one. Still no fans. Popped open the fuse box on top of the battery. Fuse closest to the engine was blown and the plastic had started to melt. Bought a whole new one of these and replaced it. This time I read about the AC test with the car off. AC works (which is a pleasant surprise) but only the big drivers side fan works. The small passenger side fan never turns on. Turned the key off and the fan stops so that's good, I think. Ever since then my battery gets drained if it sits for so many hours.
Everything I read points to that fan going bad and becoming inoperable. But is that what is causing my battery to drain? Today I pulled the fuse nearest the engine when I got to work to see if my battery stays charged all day. Well as of right now it will not even turn over. Went out after work and it turned over 6 times but did not start. Started to jump it using my buddies car. Let it charge for 20 minutes and now it wont turn over. Have dash lights. Glow plug light is working as it should. Headlights everything works. Charged up the battery. Have 13 volts at the battery. Doesn't make a difference. Still will not turn over. Going to pull my battery tray after work and see if I can see the solenoid. Will see if I have any power there. Can I see the solenoid from the top of the car? Probably not...
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When I turn the key in the ignition, almost nothing happens. There is no resistance when turning the key. Accessory power works (interior overhead lights, dash back lighting, door open sound) but no dash lights or headlights (just the front passenger parking light comes on). Tried to get a jump but nothing happened, not even the headlights came on. Haven't tried push start yet. I suspect an issue with the ignition switch, but I found another thread that suggested it could also be traced to certain fuses.
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My Jetta makes a clicking/clanking noise when I turn my steering wheel from standstill. I was told it was my CV joints. So I replaced them and its still making the noise. I was told then it was my struts/shocks. Is this true? The sound is coming from the front driver side wheel. Also, when looking at this tire. I noticed that while this one does have some wear it is even throughout the tire. However, this tire has more wear than the others. The others look brand new.
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So the trans on my '02 GTI 1.8T has started doing this exciting new thing where it won't shift out of first gear for a few minutes when it's cold. I had attributed this mainly to that pesky valve body everyone talks about and hadn't got around to doing anything yet, when something new happened.
I noticed that if I turn right within a minute of the transmission "starting to work again", it'll slip out of gear again. There's one turn it always happens on, an uphill right-hander down the street from home.
Anyway, is it possible that this transmission has had some fluid loss? I know they're supposed to be "no maintenance" ( lol ) but I've had the engine rebuilt in the last year and maybe the shop borked something while they were down there?
What are the possibilities here?
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Wondering what could be possible causes of severe shaking while under acceleration?? Also does it worse when turning right. Will just vibrate and start going wherever.
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In the past week I have three instances where my Jetta will not start. I end up taking the Touareg. When I get home, I try the Jetta again and it starts right up. The engine is turning over but nothing happens. When I turn on the acc, I can hear the fuel pump.
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Now I'm back and just picked myself up 2002 Golf GTI with fairly low kms for its year. Anyway when i test drove and checked through it all everything seemed fine. Basically she won't start 1/6 times. So for example of the amount of usage she had today:
AM - Drove to work this morning, started fine from cold (its just come into winter so probably around 12 degrees Celsius).
PM - Drove home from work, started fine from cold
Evening (3 hours approx. after driving home) - started fine from cold, drove 5 mins, stopped at gas station, started fine and drove another 5 min then stopped and parked.
After parking, i decided to move her closer to the building for security but when i cranked her she would turn over but not start. Tried this 2 or 3 times (probably flooded the engine).
After about 1 1/2, jumped backed in, started first time but took a few seconds to start with foot slightly on gas. Checked the fuel pump, i can hear it switching on so can rule that out.
I'm suspecting its a battery issue based on history (has had all the major service parts done timing belt, fuel pump etc) and for the majority of its life, its actually just sat in a garage, according to the dealer (old guy that lived and worked in the city owned it before me) and that this just needs replacing. The battery doesn't look old however under the bonnet it is stupidly clean so might not be an indication of anything.
I haven't had a flat battery for a while though but from what i remember, a flat battery just clicks or even struggles to turn over? Any simple things i can check myself? Just went downstairs to check fuel pump, thats switching on and car started fine 4 times in a row.
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So i got a 2002 gti 1.8t awp . Wont start unless I crank it about 2-4 times. Also noticed a bit of a grinding/high pitched noise when cranking. when the car starts up it idles perfect, doesn't die , drives perfect etc...
Eventually i got the car scanned. & got 2 codes.
P0341 : Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/ Performance B1
&
P0230 : Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction
So I went and bought a Fuel pump , Camshaft position sensor & Even a new starter. Nothing fixed it. & the problem still occurs..
Heres a video of me trying to crank it ; [URL] .....
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2002 Jetta GLS 1.8T (engine stock except diverter valve) 171k miles
It's done this a couple times now. Both while raining out/high humidity. Prior to this, I could hear the pump "growling". Sounded like maybe starting to go. You could hear it prime when opening the door or turning the key forward but would stay sounding like that even when the car was started. Without the radio, you can hear the pump running.
1st time- The car will crank without issue but never start. I let it sit a few minutes, turned key, heard it prime,tried again, started right up like there wasn't an issue and I couldn't hear the pump this time while the car was running.
2nd time-The car will crank without issue but never start. I let it sit for an hour, opened door (couldn't hear prime), checked fuse 28 (good). Figured wth, let's try anyways. Turned key, couldn't hear prime, started right up. WTF. cold idle normal (1000-1200rpm), light revs to 3000 ish normal. Turned off car, let sit for a minute. Turned key, heard prime, car started without issue and I couldn't hear the pump again while the car was running.
My dad is thinking to replace the pump right away. Is there anything else to try? The relay is working... at least sorta. With the somewhat intermittent issue, where to start? Either way, relay or pump, I will be replacing fuel filter.
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I have a 2002 2.0L 5spd Jetta that has an intermittent crank no start issue. The car has about 140k miles on it. The car will crank, but will not always start. It seems to start about 8/10 times. During the cranking, there is a rough noise coming from the starter area. More on this noise later.
When the car starts, no codes are thrown. When it refuses to start, the following codes show up:
P0261 Cylinder I Injector Circuit Low
P0267 Cylinder 2 Injector Circuit Low
P0270 Cylinder 3 Injector Circuit Low
P0264 Cylinder 4 Injector Circuit Low
P0445 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Shorted
P0037 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low B1S2
P0418 Secondary Air Injection System Relay "A" Circuit Malfunction
P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (I don't think this is related to the intermittent starting issues)
I've read up on these codes, and there are instances of other people getting these codes as well, but unfortunately, I haven't found any "smoking gun" that's the root cause to solve the issue. What I've tried, chronological order; none of these solved the problem:
Checking for spark. The spark plugs are new (within 2 months), but I removed spark plug and checked for spark.
Check fuel system: I removed the fuel line to the engine and drained it to a jug. I saw fuel flow intermittently when I keyed on the car. (Should it flow continuously?)Replaced the fuel filterSwapped fuel relay 409Checked wires near relays for obvious signs of damage (admittedly maybe I missed something here)Swapped coil pack. The coil pack was replaced in April, but I put a different one on, to no avail.
The spark plug wires were replaced at the same time as the coil pack.Starter
Thought fixing the noise might fix the starting issue. The noise from the starter is a grinding noise that occurs during the cranking process (not after, as is a common problem with these Jettas. It's NOT this noise: [URL] .... In any case, I tried the fix for the above noise by removing the starter and regreasing the inside. That didn't work and the noise and the intermittent starting issues are still here.Finally took the starter to Advance Auto Parts, had it tested, and was told it was good.
I think I have two issues that may or may not be related- the intermittent starting issues and the noise issue. They started happening at close to the same time.
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About 2 weeks ago, my jetta decided it didn't want to start. Was getting symptoms of a bad ignition switch prior to this. Could get it to start one by jiggling the key. Replaced the ignition switch and now could hear the starter relay click but still no start. Yesterday, installed a reman starter and got it to start once. Could here the solenoid click when trying to start. Was reading on here or somewhere that it my be my power control relay, so took the top off to look at it and it was fine. Battery was down about 100 amps so it was replaced and still no start. Going to go see if my vag com will talk to to the ecu. Thinking about pulling the starter out and having it tested.
MK2 are so much easier.
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The Symptoms: Car decided not to turn over for my son one morning, when I came home I tried with my key and the engine did turn over but immediately died.
Turned on key to power and watched for lights like the immobilizer/key but that came on and went off no problems there, did the same with both keys and the immobilizer/security key light went off fine.
Read for codes and there was a P0320 which pointed to Crankshaft Position Sensor. Order the part from good old Rock Auto and 2 days later it came, installed, cleared out the code, tried to start, did not start.
Decided to spray some starter fluid into the throttle body to get it to turn over in hopes a new code would come out.
It did fire up for a few seconds and did throw another code, this time P0321. That code points to the same sensor I just replaced.
Figured I would check to ensure the fuel pump and relay were working so I wired from positive and negative battery terminal to the outer plug clips at the fuel pump and I heard and felt it click. Not sure if it should prime and make more than just a click.
In my other cars you can clealy hear it prime for more than a second so not sure if the fuel pump is really the culprit here.
The car has 125K and the pump is original I can see.
I did check the relay fuse under the drivers side dash and I can feel/hear it click when I turn the ignition on.
I also did check all of the various fuses in the side compartment that have to do with the engine, they all look good and tested with multimeter as well.
So now I did order a new fuel pump, what else to try out? I did change the fuel filter at 100K so do not believe that is causing the issue. Not sure if the fuel regulator by the rail could be an issue.
It seems like all of a sudden fuel is not being delivered and with faulty injectors or plugs, they throw a code for misfire etc. Also starter seems to be fine, no griinding/smoke etc but was thinking about taking it out and over to Advance to have them check as well.
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My wife drives a 2002 Golf 2.0L with about 214k on it at the moment. It runs really well and I'd like to keep it that way. Last week she told me that the car wouldn't start sometimes and that she would hear a buzzing noise when she turned the key. If she turned the key off and then on again the car would start. The problem was occurring more consistently as time went by and sometimes she would have to try to start the car four or five times.
I took a look at the car and her description was correct. The 53 relay under the dash was buzzing once the clutch was depressed and the key was turned, but the car wouldn't start. I took out the relay and put it back in and the car started fine. I swapped it with the other 53 relay in the panel (dual horns), and started the car a bunch of time with no problem. Then I gave the car back to her to drive to work. Everything was fine for a while.But now the problem is starting to return.
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I have an '02 GTI VR6. It died on me on the freeway after surging then limping to a stop and wouldn't restart. I replaced my fuel pump 5 months ago and now I suspect that it has died again, but I want to be absolutely sure that the pump is the problem before I replace it again.
Last time the car would sometimes hesitate in 1st and 2nd for a couple weeks before the pump actually went bad. This time it seemed fine for 5 months then just went out.
The pump does not prime when I open the door. I checked fuse #28 and it's not blown, but there doesn't seem to be any power to it. I tested the power to the fuel pump connector. When I turn the key on I get ~12v for a split second then nothing. While cranking the engine I get ~9v constantly. I hooked a square 9v battery straight to the two outside connectors on the pump and nothing happened.
Can I be sure that the pump is the only problem? Obviously it's dead, but is there any reason for fuse 28 to not be getting power? And should the connector only be getting power for a split second when the ignition is turned on? I tried a different fuel pump relay with no change.
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One night i get into my car its a 2002 mk4 golf 2.0 engine and i turn my key to start it and i turn the key all the way and i am getting no sound at all no clicking or even the engine trying to start. the key just turns all the way and thats it my stereo turns on and my interior lights turn on but my headlights dont turn on and my cluster gauges needles dont move at all . its like my ignition is not sending any signal to the engine or my cluster gauges. the cluster lights work but that it. when i turn the key to start i am getting nothing . What this could be?
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2002 Jetta 1.8L Turbo running fine. Then one day driving on the freeway at about 70, I try to pass someone and notice when I push the gas the engine lulls. I back off the gas and accelerate slower and I can get up to speed. Drive it all the way home and its fine a t low speeds. Turn the car off and try to restart it and it wont start. Turns over but wont start. No CEL or anything else, I check the codes and I have a P0171 (Lean fuel Bank 1). Where do I start? Also car is parked in an underground garage. No chance of a tow out of this place, it may soon be a Jetta tomb.
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I am having an issue with my 2002 GTI 1.8T. I have tried searching for an answer to this, and found a couple things saying maybe it could be the secondary air pump but wanted to get more opinions before I go shell out money to chase this problem.
When I start up the car in the morning after having it sit overnight, the car does the normal thing where it increases rpm's to about 1100 to warm it up. During this a loud "whistling" noise can be heard. Once the car is warmed up a little bit, the rpm's decline to about 900, and the whistling sound goes away. When this happens though it almost sounds as if a valve or something is closing causing the noise to go away.
Also, I am unsure if this is related to this, sometimes when I am driving, I will be accelerating and the car seems to stop accelerating as strong as it was, boost goes down from around 8 or 9 psi to about 4 and I seem to lose power as if I had let off the gas some. When I put my foot further down the car accelerates harder again and boost goes back up.
I have already changed spark plugs, cleaned MAF sensor, and run the 3m 3 part engine cleaning kit through it.
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I own a 2002 Jetta 1.8T now here is my story.
A week ago whiles driving lost power when accelerating, EPC light illuminates so I turned on my hazard light and limped home since I was far away from home. As I limped home, all the lights on the dash went off. I got home, shut engine off, restarted the car but car wont accelerate.
I popped the hood and saw the dreaded melted fuse box on top of battery with charred alternator cable. I ordered the fuse box and alternator cable and prepared to replace them.
I realized that with the driver side door open with no key in ignition, I could hear a clicking sound with inside lights blinking. Didn't worry because I believed it had to do with the melted fuse box and charred alternator cable. I noticed that the clock was off too.
I replaced.the fuse box and alternator cable. My battery is just a year old so when I tried starting the car and it won't crank, I tried to jump start it but no sound. Car won't start. Dead silence,no click nothing.
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So my ABS light turned on along with my MIL about a week ago. Figured the ABS module is done.
Today I turned on the car and now my MIL doesn't light up. Pressed the ASR switch (normally lights up MIL) and nothing. I went as far and unplugging the battery for a few minutes and even unplugging the MAF to see if it will light up.
Nothing. I highly doubt the light in the cluster is done.
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I have a problem with that, when i'm in a low height with my car, i turn right and the hole car vibrates, like rubbing in the axle, its no heating the frame, both sides are new, i change because of that, check everything, also change engine mount, top mounts are camber plates, running bags over coil, and all suspension its new. only part thats original are the front bearings, can be the bearings?
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The dealer diagnosed my a/c as needing a new compressor and clutch. I had an a/c specialty shop install a remanufactured compressor and clutch. however, they could not get the compressor to kick on. I checked all fuses (all are good).
I checked the compressor continuity (good, 0 ohms). I checked the plug where the compressor clutch plugs in (it reads 12 volts). the funny thing is, it reads 12 volts anytime the engine is running (even if the climatroinc is turned off). I am definitely not an a/c expert and really don't know how this stuff works.
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