Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2002 - Wouldn't Start Sometimes - Buzzing Relay?
May 19, 2014
My wife drives a 2002 Golf 2.0L with about 214k on it at the moment. It runs really well and I'd like to keep it that way. Last week she told me that the car wouldn't start sometimes and that she would hear a buzzing noise when she turned the key. If she turned the key off and then on again the car would start. The problem was occurring more consistently as time went by and sometimes she would have to try to start the car four or five times.
I took a look at the car and her description was correct. The 53 relay under the dash was buzzing once the clutch was depressed and the key was turned, but the car wouldn't start. I took out the relay and put it back in and the car started fine. I swapped it with the other 53 relay in the panel (dual horns), and started the car a bunch of time with no problem. Then I gave the car back to her to drive to work. Everything was fine for a while.But now the problem is starting to return.
View 17 Replies
Advertisement
About 2 weeks ago, my jetta decided it didn't want to start. Was getting symptoms of a bad ignition switch prior to this. Could get it to start one by jiggling the key. Replaced the ignition switch and now could hear the starter relay click but still no start. Yesterday, installed a reman starter and got it to start once. Could here the solenoid click when trying to start. Was reading on here or somewhere that it my be my power control relay, so took the top off to look at it and it was fine. Battery was down about 100 amps so it was replaced and still no start. Going to go see if my vag com will talk to to the ecu. Thinking about pulling the starter out and having it tested.
MK2 are so much easier.
View 1 Replies
Just as I was talking up my 03 jetta with 250,000 miles to a buddy, it developed a problem. It started to take a while to start, and wouldn't rev over 3000 while driving. (like all the other posts, would just die at 3k). So, I installed new Crank and Cam position sensors. Started up...a little stumble...running. Take it for a drive and able to rev over 3k rpm. Now it just spits, sputters, dies, stumbles.....push in clutch, engine dies....???? I know i will have to probably take it to VW for them to check it out....
View 6 Replies
With the euro headlight switch off and I pull the high beams on a relay buzzes, the high beams come on and the interior lights come on and off
With the euro headlight switch on or in the middle and I pull the high beams there is no buzz and all the light work properly
- I've checked every fuse on the fuse box inside the car and they're all ok
- I've unplugged the headlight switch but the issue still persists
- I've unplugged the headlights one at a time, then both but the issue persists
- I pulled the relay that was buzzing and the issue went away so I figured it was a bad relay, I ordered a bosch one from ecs and replaced it but again the issue persists
View 4 Replies
I was riding along today everything running fine then I came to a stop sign and when I pulled off my car wouldn't run 10 psi of boost it was only running 5 psi so I when to a buddys checked everything over and all my piping looked fine so I went up the road and everything was fine so when I started going home it did the same thing pulled of shut the car off pulled off and it was fine again.
View 5 Replies
I have a problem with the starting system on my 2002 Camry LE 4-cylinder. My problem started a few weeks ago. I drove it to the store, about five miles away, did my shopping, got back in the car, started it up and drove back toward home but stopped again to get gasoline. After filling the tank, the car wouldn't start. I turned the key but nothing happened. No noise, nothing. The starter motor wasn't turning over the engine. Thinking back, when I started my trip, the starting seemed a little weak but the car was sitting for a few days and it was cold out so I didn't make too much of that symptom.
So over the next half an hour, I tried starting it a few more times but got nothing but silence. So I called for a tow and $150 later I had my car back home. I put a load tester on the battery and it checked out fine. So I eliminated that part of the starting system being a problem. The next day, just out of curiosity, I tried starting it again and it fired up right away. The motor ran fine and I let it warm up for a while but I didn't go anywhere. I repeated this same procedure a few times over the past couple of weeks and each time the motor started up but again, I didn't chance going anywhere. However since I had some other maintenance projects I needed to get done on it and my wife has a 2014 Camry, having the 2002 out of service was inconvenient, but not an emergency.
So yesterday, with my maintenance projects done, I took the 2002 for a little test ride. Once again, it started up without a problem and I took my ride around the block. When I got home, I shut the motor off and went inside to grab a few tools. I came back outside, tried starting up the motor and got nothing. No start and no sound but the slight hum of the electric fuel pump. I tried a few more times with no success and then gave up for the evening. This morning, right before taking the other car to work, I tried starting it again just out of curiosity and once again, the motor fired right away. So this sequence of events tells me that something in the starting system is being impacted by heat when the motor is warm and when things cool down, they're fine.....at least for now.
I'm thinking the solenoid-starter may be going because I've had starters on other vehicles affected by heat before.
View 1 Replies
Yesterday I drove my mom's 02 explorer to the gas station to fill it for her. After filling, I started it. It ran for several seconds and then died. It wouldn't start right away, so I let sit for a half hour, and then it started and I drove it 10 miles home. What is going on?
View 6 Replies
Okay so I bought this car and a week later tranny wouldn't shift out of first when I would slow down or at least it would take a min. I would hit 4or 5 grand then it would jolt me back. It wouldn't do it every time though. I bought it to go to college drove it the 900 miles on the highway and had no problems except right before I left town but then fine. All I did was change the tranny fluid before I left which I can confidently say I don't think has been changed before that. stunk bad bud no metal.
Alright now I'll go jump in the car to go to class and it will not leave first. If I put it in the manual mode it thinks it's in third but clearly if in doing 15 mph at 4000 rpm that's not the case. It doesn't do it every time. Kinda hit or miss. After driving for a min it usually shifts. Sometimes I make it the two miles without it shifting though. Also sometimes It will shift but once I slow down it won't shift out of first again.
I have seen a code for torque management since I bought the car. The check engine light is on now but I haven't seen the torque code since I change the MassES. that's not to say it's not still there. I used a different handheld computer for the check engine light the last time I did it and I could have missed it because I was unfamiliar with it. I have put a mass airflow sensor, battery, alternator, and changed the tranny fluid since I have owned the car. drained 3L of tranny fluid and put 3L back in. Oh and the last time I checked the light it said lean in bank 1 but I was assuming that was an unrelated issue.
View 6 Replies
Now I'm back and just picked myself up 2002 Golf GTI with fairly low kms for its year. Anyway when i test drove and checked through it all everything seemed fine. Basically she won't start 1/6 times. So for example of the amount of usage she had today:
AM - Drove to work this morning, started fine from cold (its just come into winter so probably around 12 degrees Celsius).
PM - Drove home from work, started fine from cold
Evening (3 hours approx. after driving home) - started fine from cold, drove 5 mins, stopped at gas station, started fine and drove another 5 min then stopped and parked.
After parking, i decided to move her closer to the building for security but when i cranked her she would turn over but not start. Tried this 2 or 3 times (probably flooded the engine).
After about 1 1/2, jumped backed in, started first time but took a few seconds to start with foot slightly on gas. Checked the fuel pump, i can hear it switching on so can rule that out.
I'm suspecting its a battery issue based on history (has had all the major service parts done timing belt, fuel pump etc) and for the majority of its life, its actually just sat in a garage, according to the dealer (old guy that lived and worked in the city owned it before me) and that this just needs replacing. The battery doesn't look old however under the bonnet it is stupidly clean so might not be an indication of anything.
I haven't had a flat battery for a while though but from what i remember, a flat battery just clicks or even struggles to turn over? Any simple things i can check myself? Just went downstairs to check fuel pump, thats switching on and car started fine 4 times in a row.
View 5 Replies
03 Jetta 1.8T AC is giving me fits. When the compressor comes on the AC is nice and cold. Problem is that it isn't on very much. Today was a good example. No AC for about the first 30 min drive to get an oil change (local driving). Next 40 min highway drive, AC only got cold for the last 20 minutes and then started to warm up before I got to work. Drove to auto parts place at lunch, AC cold from start to finish. No AC all the way back to work.
So, this evening I started the car with the hood up and watched. Compressor wouldn't engage. Pushed the AC button a couple of times and clutch engages. Compressor stayed on for 7 minutes and ice cold air. Clutch then disengaged and immediately both fans went to high speed for about 5 minutes with warm air out the vents.
Fans cycled back to low speed and compressor clutch engaged again for about 2 minutes this time. Fans to high speed again for 3 minutes, then compressor engaged for only a minute. Each time the compressor shut down, both fans would go to high revs. The minute they would go to low speed, the compressor clutch would engage and I'd get nice cold air..
Just had the expansion valve replaced and r134a charged by and AC shop last week. I have had the on/off AC problem for months and then could not get the compressor to engage at all for about one month. Of course, just as I was getting to the shop, it started blowing cold air.
Not sure whether I'm looking at an electrical problem or what. Just seems odd that both fans suddenly speed up and slow down and the compressor engages only on low speed.
The only other odd thing I've noticed is that cold or hot, as soon as I turn the ignition on (engine off), one fan continually starts cycling on and off. It does that continuously. I've checked the fuses on top of the battery and they all look fine. No appreciable drop in RPMs when the compressor engages. Fan control module?
View 7 Replies
I was driving today and my cruise control light came on and wouldn't turn off. i vagcom'd the car and a code came up which was:
Cruise control switch (E45): Implausable signal
P1569 - 35 - 10 ---- Intermittent
I tried clearing it but it would but the light remains on. I noticed that when i hit the RES button on the stalk, the light goes away and when that when I scanned the car and held the RES button the code would come back. My cruise control also stopped working.
View 5 Replies
So i got a 2002 gti 1.8t awp . Wont start unless I crank it about 2-4 times. Also noticed a bit of a grinding/high pitched noise when cranking. when the car starts up it idles perfect, doesn't die , drives perfect etc...
Eventually i got the car scanned. & got 2 codes.
P0341 : Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/ Performance B1
&
P0230 : Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction
So I went and bought a Fuel pump , Camshaft position sensor & Even a new starter. Nothing fixed it. & the problem still occurs..
Heres a video of me trying to crank it ; [URL] .....
View 14 Replies
2 weeks ago my fans stayed on all day and killed my battery. Did a bunch of research and found that the FCM would be a possible place to start. FCM was literally in pieces under the battery. Replaced it with a new one. Still no fans. Popped open the fuse box on top of the battery. Fuse closest to the engine was blown and the plastic had started to melt. Bought a whole new one of these and replaced it. This time I read about the AC test with the car off. AC works (which is a pleasant surprise) but only the big drivers side fan works. The small passenger side fan never turns on. Turned the key off and the fan stops so that's good, I think. Ever since then my battery gets drained if it sits for so many hours.
Everything I read points to that fan going bad and becoming inoperable. But is that what is causing my battery to drain? Today I pulled the fuse nearest the engine when I got to work to see if my battery stays charged all day. Well as of right now it will not even turn over. Went out after work and it turned over 6 times but did not start. Started to jump it using my buddies car. Let it charge for 20 minutes and now it wont turn over. Have dash lights. Glow plug light is working as it should. Headlights everything works. Charged up the battery. Have 13 volts at the battery. Doesn't make a difference. Still will not turn over. Going to pull my battery tray after work and see if I can see the solenoid. Will see if I have any power there. Can I see the solenoid from the top of the car? Probably not...
View 6 Replies
2002 Jetta GLS 1.8T (engine stock except diverter valve) 171k miles
It's done this a couple times now. Both while raining out/high humidity. Prior to this, I could hear the pump "growling". Sounded like maybe starting to go. You could hear it prime when opening the door or turning the key forward but would stay sounding like that even when the car was started. Without the radio, you can hear the pump running.
1st time- The car will crank without issue but never start. I let it sit a few minutes, turned key, heard it prime,tried again, started right up like there wasn't an issue and I couldn't hear the pump this time while the car was running.
2nd time-The car will crank without issue but never start. I let it sit for an hour, opened door (couldn't hear prime), checked fuse 28 (good). Figured wth, let's try anyways. Turned key, couldn't hear prime, started right up. WTF. cold idle normal (1000-1200rpm), light revs to 3000 ish normal. Turned off car, let sit for a minute. Turned key, heard prime, car started without issue and I couldn't hear the pump again while the car was running.
My dad is thinking to replace the pump right away. Is there anything else to try? The relay is working... at least sorta. With the somewhat intermittent issue, where to start? Either way, relay or pump, I will be replacing fuel filter.
View 3 Replies
2003 1.8t gti ... Today when I got in my car...it fired up perfectly normal but when I got in it from leaving school it took 5min to fire up. The engine turned over but wouldn't fire all the time as if the spark plugs were bad. So I bought new NGK spark plugs and had the same issue just a little bit ago.
I know the obvious thing would be to change the ignition coils but they're out of stock everywhere so I have to have them shipped. My question is is the ignition coils the problem? They looked a bit worn but nothing serious.
View 10 Replies
I have a 2002 2.0L 5spd Jetta that has an intermittent crank no start issue. The car has about 140k miles on it. The car will crank, but will not always start. It seems to start about 8/10 times. During the cranking, there is a rough noise coming from the starter area. More on this noise later.
When the car starts, no codes are thrown. When it refuses to start, the following codes show up:
P0261 Cylinder I Injector Circuit Low
P0267 Cylinder 2 Injector Circuit Low
P0270 Cylinder 3 Injector Circuit Low
P0264 Cylinder 4 Injector Circuit Low
P0445 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Shorted
P0037 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low B1S2
P0418 Secondary Air Injection System Relay "A" Circuit Malfunction
P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (I don't think this is related to the intermittent starting issues)
I've read up on these codes, and there are instances of other people getting these codes as well, but unfortunately, I haven't found any "smoking gun" that's the root cause to solve the issue. What I've tried, chronological order; none of these solved the problem:
Checking for spark. The spark plugs are new (within 2 months), but I removed spark plug and checked for spark.
Check fuel system: I removed the fuel line to the engine and drained it to a jug. I saw fuel flow intermittently when I keyed on the car. (Should it flow continuously?)Replaced the fuel filterSwapped fuel relay 409Checked wires near relays for obvious signs of damage (admittedly maybe I missed something here)Swapped coil pack. The coil pack was replaced in April, but I put a different one on, to no avail.
The spark plug wires were replaced at the same time as the coil pack.Starter
Thought fixing the noise might fix the starting issue. The noise from the starter is a grinding noise that occurs during the cranking process (not after, as is a common problem with these Jettas. It's NOT this noise: [URL] .... In any case, I tried the fix for the above noise by removing the starter and regreasing the inside. That didn't work and the noise and the intermittent starting issues are still here.Finally took the starter to Advance Auto Parts, had it tested, and was told it was good.
I think I have two issues that may or may not be related- the intermittent starting issues and the noise issue. They started happening at close to the same time.
View 1 Replies
The Symptoms: Car decided not to turn over for my son one morning, when I came home I tried with my key and the engine did turn over but immediately died.
Turned on key to power and watched for lights like the immobilizer/key but that came on and went off no problems there, did the same with both keys and the immobilizer/security key light went off fine.
Read for codes and there was a P0320 which pointed to Crankshaft Position Sensor. Order the part from good old Rock Auto and 2 days later it came, installed, cleared out the code, tried to start, did not start.
Decided to spray some starter fluid into the throttle body to get it to turn over in hopes a new code would come out.
It did fire up for a few seconds and did throw another code, this time P0321. That code points to the same sensor I just replaced.
Figured I would check to ensure the fuel pump and relay were working so I wired from positive and negative battery terminal to the outer plug clips at the fuel pump and I heard and felt it click. Not sure if it should prime and make more than just a click.
In my other cars you can clealy hear it prime for more than a second so not sure if the fuel pump is really the culprit here.
The car has 125K and the pump is original I can see.
I did check the relay fuse under the drivers side dash and I can feel/hear it click when I turn the ignition on.
I also did check all of the various fuses in the side compartment that have to do with the engine, they all look good and tested with multimeter as well.
So now I did order a new fuel pump, what else to try out? I did change the fuel filter at 100K so do not believe that is causing the issue. Not sure if the fuel regulator by the rail could be an issue.
It seems like all of a sudden fuel is not being delivered and with faulty injectors or plugs, they throw a code for misfire etc. Also starter seems to be fine, no griinding/smoke etc but was thinking about taking it out and over to Advance to have them check as well.
View 7 Replies
I have an '02 GTI VR6. It died on me on the freeway after surging then limping to a stop and wouldn't restart. I replaced my fuel pump 5 months ago and now I suspect that it has died again, but I want to be absolutely sure that the pump is the problem before I replace it again.
Last time the car would sometimes hesitate in 1st and 2nd for a couple weeks before the pump actually went bad. This time it seemed fine for 5 months then just went out.
The pump does not prime when I open the door. I checked fuse #28 and it's not blown, but there doesn't seem to be any power to it. I tested the power to the fuel pump connector. When I turn the key on I get ~12v for a split second then nothing. While cranking the engine I get ~9v constantly. I hooked a square 9v battery straight to the two outside connectors on the pump and nothing happened.
Can I be sure that the pump is the only problem? Obviously it's dead, but is there any reason for fuse 28 to not be getting power? And should the connector only be getting power for a split second when the ignition is turned on? I tried a different fuel pump relay with no change.
View 2 Replies
One night i get into my car its a 2002 mk4 golf 2.0 engine and i turn my key to start it and i turn the key all the way and i am getting no sound at all no clicking or even the engine trying to start. the key just turns all the way and thats it my stereo turns on and my interior lights turn on but my headlights dont turn on and my cluster gauges needles dont move at all . its like my ignition is not sending any signal to the engine or my cluster gauges. the cluster lights work but that it. when i turn the key to start i am getting nothing . What this could be?
View 8 Replies
2002 Jetta 1.8L Turbo running fine. Then one day driving on the freeway at about 70, I try to pass someone and notice when I push the gas the engine lulls. I back off the gas and accelerate slower and I can get up to speed. Drive it all the way home and its fine a t low speeds. Turn the car off and try to restart it and it wont start. Turns over but wont start. No CEL or anything else, I check the codes and I have a P0171 (Lean fuel Bank 1). Where do I start? Also car is parked in an underground garage. No chance of a tow out of this place, it may soon be a Jetta tomb.
View 2 Replies
Golf 2.0 ... Finding the location of the AC Clutch/Compressor relay location. On the TDI its behind the the dash and I looked on mine and it doesn't seem to be the same. I've seen a thread where some said it was under the battery? Where it is and what number will be stamped on it. Another thread said it should be behind the dash and number 385 or 358, I looked and I don't have those numbers back there.
View 2 Replies
