Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 1.8T - Reverse Not Engaging On Cold Starts / Code P0732
Jan 6, 2016
I am having a problem with my MKIV, @ 182k. I think problem first arose a couple months ago when reverse began not engaging on cold starts, so I would have to sit there 5-10 minutes waiting for car to 'warm up' enough for reverse to engage. This led me to taking it to a local tranny shop who I asked to change fluid only, which they did. Problem persisted however, but forward driving was noticeably much smoother. If that matters. I gave up on it, since I knew it was only reverse messing up, and started parking in reverse overnight etc.
Simultaneously I had a code for P0420/P0411 (the SAI incorrect flow crap which causes catalyst inefficiency) so I went ahead and swapped out the cracked SAI plastic hose leading to stock airbox, after doing so I reset the CEL and ran the car. And it ran like crap, I think it was in limp mode (i had never experienced this in my Jetta) from what Ive read, but not sure. So, I pulled to the side, and restarted car, let it sit, same problem. Finally, after 3-4 cycles it threw a CEL, which ironically FIXED the problem. It ran fine from then on. Made it home, hooked up scanner and CEL code was P0732, which I read elsewhere is a 'Gear 2 - Incorrect Ratio' meaning 2nd gear is messed up somehow.
So, overnight I reset CEL and today in the morning I let it idle for 10 minutes before taking off, immediately same issue, where car will not accelerate/ change gears it seems. Went back straight home, waited for CEL to display, and VOILA, runs fine again. Same code P0732. Running fine as of writing this. Problem only arose after taking a swing at SAI code and reset of CEL's. Once CEL lights up its fine.
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Ok here is the issue, my girlfriend owns a MK4 '99 Jetta. Through the search I was able to figure out why she is having so many issues with her door locks and how they can be fixed on the cheap..thats awesome. But here is the problem. She was driving down the road the other day, A/C working...then suddenly it stopped blowing cold. Fan is still working, just blows hot air. She said it started blowing warm suddenly and hasnt been getting warmer through out the past days or anything.
With the hood popped and the a/c on, you can see that the compressor isnt engaging. The car makes a noise like its engaging the compressor, but nothing is happening that I can see visually. Seems as if the compressor is not getting the signal to engage. It sounds like its trying to make the compressor kick on about every 5 seconds or so. Basically that initial clicking sound that your hear RIGHT before the compressor comes on when its working normally.
We have checked the fuses and no luck with those, all look good. Seems like its an electrical issue to me. What this may be? Bad pressure switch? Low pressure in the system? I know the car has had the compressor replaced before...and the clutch seems to spin freely when the car is off.
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Was doing some errands this morning and on the way home the transmission shifted a little strangely into 2nd. I had to let off the throttle for it to shift.
Fluid levels are correct and not burnt with no residue floating with a pinkish red color. Using Schaeffer's All-Trans Supreme.
I have read all of the threads related to the P0732 and the mechanical diode issue. Does the e99 4R100 have the mechanical diode? If not, what else could it be?
I also have the P0500 VSS sensor circuit fault which an old Ford mechanic stated could be related to a bad fuel sending unit which is definitely bad on this truck.
Am planning to go out and clean the sensor on the differential. Speedometer is working properly. I have also noticed what appeared to be a small slip when in reverse a couple of times that I initially attributed to tire spin. Is any of this related? Should I be prepared to rebuild/replace the transmission?
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Is it a good deal to buy a 1.8t jetta with transmission problems. Won't go on reverse when the car is cold. 1500? mk4 vr6 .....
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I recently purchased a 2002 Jetta VR6 GLX. It drives fine when the transmission is warm, but fails to go into reverse and has a hard time shifting out of first when it's cold. I took it to my german mechanic friend who specializes in transmissions and he said that both the valve body and transmission need to be replaced. Problem is I don't have the funds to replace both.
The current transmission has 131000 on it.
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My 99 2.0 jetta tends to flash the temperature light on cold starts and when the cars running for a while and im not moving (traffic) the light flashes and starts to overheat. Whats the problem? The previous owner had changed the radiator begire i bought it but can it. I need a new radiator fan or is it my thermostat?
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I have an 02 accent with 1.6 that has no reverse and throws P0732 and P0734. How to repair?
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Just bought a 2005 Jetta 2.0 4 speed automatic (non tiptronic) with 92,000 miles. This is the old 1999-2005 style, not the New Jetta that was introduced that year.
I've done research and have found that the transmissions on these bodied Jettas seem to be acting up.
This one shifts fine with a few weird things. When I start the car cold (this is in LA, so even over night the temps don't go below 60), and I put it in reverse, the car does not go into reverse for a good 3-5 seconds. This does not happen after the car has been driven for a while. After that it shifts fine, no delay.
The other symptom is sometimes the shifts from 1st to 2nd gear are a bit rough, with a thump sound, but nothing too out of the ordinary...if it wasn't for the other mentioned problem above, I wouldn't think twice about the 1st to 2nd shift as many automatic cars have some rough shifts. All the other gears shift fine.
I've done the basic research to know there could be a couple things causing this such as clutch piston seals and excessive drainback. I want some more info since I know there are my experienced people on this forum. Should I be worried and are there any things I should do immediately?
I have also found that these transmissions are sealed and can not be checked for oil levels with out taking to expert shop. I've also seen that they are very sensitive to overfill and any service needs to be performed by experts. Should I just continue and come back to this if symptoms get worse?
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Since day one I've had an issue with the exhaust leaking on my car, right at the flex pipe before the cat. I have replaced it at least 5 times in the last year. Every 2 moths or so it tears the flexpipe right in half, like it's literally in 2 pieces when I take it out. So, I thought that maybe the factory dogbone mount was old and weak, causing the engine to move around more, therefore tearing the flexpipe apart, so I got an new dogbone with poly bushings to combat that. It did reduce engine movement, but the exhaust kept breaking at the same spot. Then I thought that the metal was weak from it being welded so many times, so I got a new downpipe with the cat on ebay for like 150 CAN, and put a new gasket on, and now it still leaks...
Only thing though, is that this time on cold starts (as it is winter, so around -25 celcius) its really REALLY loud, like the exhaust sheared off right after the cat. However, after a few hours of driving it seems to get quieter at idle, but if you give it a little gas, it is quite audible. Also I can see exhaust fumes coming out my engine bay on said cold starts, however if I get down to ground level, I can hear it plain as day right where the pinch clamp is that connects to the catback part.
So, my theory is that, cause the bands on the clamp rusted out so my dad just put those u-bolt muffler clamps on there, which I can see an opening in the clamp, even if they're tight, until the exhaust gets hot and expands, kinda making the seal tighter but not air tight like it should. So maybe that clamp isn't doing it's job anymore and I just need a new one. OR it could be that that stupid flex pipe is broken again or that the bolts holding it to the manifold aren't tight, which that can't be cause i got them pretty snug on there. I'll have to take a look underneath again, see If I see any carbon on the exhaust, which would mean a leak, but I checked a few weeks ago and it was shiny metal, no signs of any leaks.
Car is an 04 golf with the 2.0 engine code BEV if that makes any difference. I double checked and NONE of the hangers are broken, and it's held in the right spot as it should, there looks to be no force exerted on the flexpipe at all when installed in the car, so I'm really confused.
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So like the title states I have a MK4 VR6 Jetta that was running before I ran into this issue and was idling but wouldn't reach over 2k before sputtering and stopping acceleration and the EPC light would turn on. Now the car starts for a second at a time before dying which to me sounds like the Immobilizer but the vehicle shows no blinking immobilizer code while starting. What I can check to get this straightened out. I miss my VR6 ... I have been thinking it could be:
1) Fuel pump/ Fuel pump relay
2) Ecu Issue
3) Crank/Knock Sensor
I'm just confused because it was throwing no codes before, the temp sensor worked as the car warmed and the only engine light occurred upon reaching operating temp and due to me being catless upon restarting the vehicle it threw an o2 fault code. Just so confused ...
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So I changed transmission fluid on my 1.8t GLS because I was having difficulty shifting out of gears on cold starts. It seemed to work fine for a few days and now I'm back to square one, it still doesn't want to shift correctly!
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I started my car the other day and found that it only drives the first gear and I can also put it in reverse. VCDS gave me a 00281 code saying no signal from Vehicle Speed Sensor G68. I replaced the sensor, but it still doesn't go into gear beyond 1st.
VCDS gives me the following codes after replacing G68.
2 Faults Found:
00652 - Gear Monitoring
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
00281 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (G68)
03-00 - No Signal
I came across TSB 01-99-02 which says something about the codes being incorrect. It seemed a little vague about whether it is actually G38 or G22. I don't want to buy more sensors only to have it be something else. The speedometer and tach work fine so G22 doesn't seem likely to me.
The VCDS site says it could be several things including bad G68 or G38 sensor, low fluid & bad valve body. Was it the G38 sensor?
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I replaced my rear pads on Sunday and the car drives and brakes great. This morning I noticed when I backed into my parking spot at work that the brakes were engaging to the point where I was on a small incline and the car didn't roll at all when I let off the brake pedal.
This was my first time doing the rear pads on my MKVI and my first time doing brakes on a VW. Is there some extra step required that I'm missing? I know the piston was a PITA, definitely not used to having to turn a piston while compressing.
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I have a 2003 2.0 gas Jetta (181k miles, automatic.) that won't rev over 3k, starts rough, idles rough and wont stop setting a P0341 cam position sensor code.
The car was not running when i got it, i replaced the coil pack and it ran but not over 3k. Cleared codes, it sets the P0341 immediately.
Had timing belt, water pump, tensioner and cam pos sensor replaced. Still, sets p0341 code, starts rough, idles rough and wont rev over 3k.
The throttle servo makes a little noise when actuated, shop thinks this is my demon - suggests replace throttle body.
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I have a 2015 with 10k miles on it and every once and a while, when I come to a complete stop and shift into reverse, I take my foot off of the brake pedal and the car will sit there for up to 5 seconds. Then, it kicks in and starts rolling backwards. This has happened 6 times now. Giving it gas doesn't seem to work along. I took it to the dealer today for it's 10k service, and they cannot find anything wrong with it. There are no codes in the computer, the fluid is where it should be, and they think the Neuspeed Power Module has something to do with it. I told them it happened before I installed that piece. I can assure you I am not racing in reverse.
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I just got this car it a 2002 jetta glx vr6 12v 5 spleed. It has a miss new plugs wires gas and used coil pack. It misses especially when cold check engine light on says cam sensor changed it and still same thing if I clear the code it comes right back.
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So after the long saga of trying to get my 03gti VR6 running, I have come across the STRANGEST behavior I have ever seen in a car. Here's a little background. Two weeks ago driving in a snowstorm my car started sputtering and then died. Left me stranded on the side of the road. Towed it to my buddies house (he's a master tech for Lexus) and tried to figure out what was going on. It wasn't throwing any codes. I replaced the fuel pump relay and that didn't fix anything. Then I noticed the fuel pump wasn't priming when I opened the door. So I replaced the fuel pump. Now it primes when you open the door. Got it started, but it wouldn't stay running for more than 10 seconds, it was acting like it was running out of gas. Even tried disconnectig the battery and touched the pos and neg together. Still to no avail.
After a week of trying to figure it out, I tried starting it with the door closed. Now the damn thing runs. BUT. Here's the strange thing. It will only run if the drivers door is closed. If you open the door, it kills the power to the fuel pump. If you leave the door open, it'll eventually die after roughly 10'secs. If you get out and close the door, it'll stay running. I'm guessing when you close the door it starts sending power to the fuel pump again. Everything else works. Power windows, door locks, mirrors, ect. The local vw shop in town said it might be a bad door switch or the CCM. But the lights come on when you open the door and go off when you shut it. Fuel pump primes when you open the door.
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When I reverse (and wait 3 seconds just to ensure the gears are engaged), on occasion I feel a stutter/kick.
To offset it, I will tap the pedal when reversing so its not continuous. What this could be?
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I have a 2008 Ford Escape 2.3L V6. About 67K miles on it.
Recently there's been some transmission problems. When the selector is in Drive, it will take abnormally long to shift into the next gear at normal speeds, and will redline if i hit it hard, but if i let off the gas, it will shift. Never hard.
If I put the selector in 2, it will do the same thing, eventually shifting into that second gear.
Gear selector on one, well, it obviously stays in 1st.
Reverse is fine. All shifts are smooth just take forever, and I get the wrench in the dash (means drivetrain/throttle fault as per manual) only after driving a while. The tranny fluid is still very clean, and this as been going on for 2 months.
Ive taken it to about 6 different places. Half say new tranny off the bat. Other half says clean fluid for that long after the problem started means its def. an electrical problem, and that makes the most sense to me. What it could be?
I'm thinking:
-Tranny Range Positioning Sensor
-Input/Output speed sensor
-TCM reprogramming/replace
- I'll even go with reflashing the PCM.
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2003 jetta wagon 1.8t 106000miles with the tiptronic auto trans, has no forward or reverse, no codes, have already drained fluid and refilled, i can see the rpm gauge move when i shift from park to R to D etc, but it will not go at all, i'm thinking maybe the toque converter has failed.
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When it's cold out, sub-60F, the car won't turn over when the key is turned to start. Eventually, after repeated attempts, it will turn over and start like normal. My battery is fairly new. My first guess would be a starter relay issue but according to the manual I have there is no starter relay.
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