Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 1.8t - Hesitation In Boost ( 3rd / 4th And 5th Gear)
Apr 14, 2015
2003, Jetta 1.8t, 5 speed, 76,500 miles ... The other day I was driving and all of a sudden I had a hesitation in 3rd gear. I have relized since that this hesitation occurs in 3rd 4th and 5th gear, but not 1st or 2nd. I am going to change the spark plugs tomorrow in hope to fix this problem. The hesitation occurs whenever you get into the gas and begin to accelerate(typically around 3000RPM and up). There are no dash lights on at all and the cars is running fine besides the hesitation.
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So this morning when I started my car to warm up everything was fine. I went inside to make some coffee and I heard my idle change slightly and didn't think to much about it but when I got in I could feel my car shaking a little bit then when I pulled off my road there was a little hesitation in first gear taking off and when I would shift I would get a little rev hang between gears. So I've realized when idling its slightly fluctuating between 6-7 hundred rpm. I have no loss of power and it has not hesitated since the first take off. I'm thinking its something to deal with air. I checked my airbox and realized the bolt closest to the battery wasn't threaded so I fixed that and tried looking for any leaks but haven't found anything.
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Recently I switched from Revo software with 440cc injectors to Unitronic with Siemens 630cc injectors. After swapping, the car has developed a hesitation issue. It only happens when driving a consistent speed in one gear, for example going 45 in 5th, the car will feel jumpy and hesitate to accelerate with a seeming loss of power. Replaced spark plugs with new ones and the problem still persists. Problem never happened with old software and injectors.
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2003 jetta gls 1.8t 5spd - gts stage 1 tune(gonzo stage 2)
tt 2-1/2" downpipe with high flow cat
turbo smart splitter valve(set to divert only)
turbo inlet pipe
homemade intake with k&n filter
stock n75 valve (f)
So in first through 3rd gear my car gets 20psi of boost then at 3,500 ish rpm smoothly starts to lower down to 15psi. but in forth and 5th gear the boost drops faster, enough so the diverter valve actually opens. then the boost will bounce up and down, around 15psi. the car still accelerates but with obvious power loss.
Is my diverter valve not "firm" enough? it is adjustable, so I've tightened it as much as it can. it doesn't seem to change anything. it came with spring spacers to make it tighter, but I haven't tried that yet.
Is it something with the tune? not enough fuel, need bigger injectors? The problem is only at about 100mph, so its not a big deal. I would like to get it straightened out if possible.
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A few days ago I changed the transmission fluid in my 03 jetta with an 02J. After this it felt nice for a day or two, but then it became very hard, and sometimes impossible to select 3rd and 5th gear. The other gears feel a little funny as well, but they are working fine. I used OEM VW/Audi fluid from German auto parts, and when I used the same stuff in my old GTI, it was great. Maybe a motor/trans mount got loose and its messing with the shifter cables? I really don't know what it can be, but it is very frustrating as this is my daily driver, and I am starting college on Tuesday, so I just need my car to work properly without a lot of downtime at this point.
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I've had my 03 VR6 6-speed for 12 years. It's been a second car for the last 5 or so, but regularly used. Friday morning the car got stuck in 3rd gear. The stick will only move from neutral position and down towards 4th gear. I've inspected the short shifter under the hood and the bushings under the shift boot. I did not find anything that diesel geek (the short shifter company) had me check for.
I brought the car into a local shop I have never used before (my usual shop closed), and today they called me saying its a transmission issue. I have not given them permission to open anything up. I am going to take the car home for now.
I have had to repair a broken 1-2 gear fork before. And at that time I had the 3-4 gear for replaced as well.
I should also mention, I similar issues on a quick drive i took the car on the night before. I thought it was just me acclimating to the shifter/lower power of the car as I hadn't driven it for a while. The point is, it drove fine afterwards and it drove fine for a 40 minute city drive to work the next morning.
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Just bought this car yesterday. test drive went fine with no issues. Started driving it home and the check engine light came on ( no big deal i thought car runs great). I go to advance auto and their scanner won't hook up to it. So i start looking at the fuses and everything was good except it was missing the the number 7 fuse ( reverse lights/speedometer sensor), so i replaced the fuse. i get home and i decide to take it down the road one more time and it all went down hill quick. EPC light came on, the car wont shift out of first gear (automatic). so i let it sit over night with the number 7 fuse out and the battery disconnected. CEL never disappeared this morning and its do the same thing. It looks like the MAF was just replaced and the brake light switch looks like the newer green version. Im going to replace the brake light switch this afternoon and i already cleaned the MAF. Another thing that i noticed that is very strange is now the Foot symbol by the shifter has gone out. The one on the dash still is working properly but the one at the shifter does not light up at all now.
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I was driving earlier and some dickhead wouldn't stop tailgating me. I brake checked him and he wouldn't back off so I got pissed and floored it. Didn't watch my rpms and I felt it give like I hit a rev limiter maybe? I'm hoping that's what it was, it was like an instant loss of power for a brief second. Just was curious that I didn't brake anything. Driving a 2003 Jetta 1.8t. Manual.
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yesterday got the car tuned. Stage 2 APR, it's a 1.8T 5 speed and I only have 2 real issues with the tune.
1. They forgot left foot braking(I think I can call APR to have this sorted)
2. When accelerating hard and shifting a gear, no matter how you try it will not hold boost through a gear changed. Turning off ASR improves this greatly but it still purges pressure and as a result the car falls flat on its face. Then it spoils up and same thing in the next gear. Trying to hold wide open throttle through a gear change does not work as I believe it feels like the pressure plate isn't able to engage fast enough. It is a full on loud pshhhh purge could a possibly higher PSI Diverter Valve fix this.
No other APR car I've driven does this (given they were MkV and MkVI). I'm not quite sure what is different with the motor unless the stock Diverter is strictly for economy and as soon as you don't need boost it purges? Not really sure
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my car into VAG COM and since then it hasn't boosted past 4 lbs. it has Revo stg 2, K04, aftermarket side mount, full exhaust and a couple other bolt ons. Before the car was spiking at around 23/24 lbs. after pressure testing the system I found that the turbo inlet pipe was lose, so I tightened it. Still no change. I tried holding the battery terminals together for 10 minutes to reset the ecu and I also tried clearing the codes through a handheld code reader. No codes even come up anyways for this. The car is a 1.8T.
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I just noticed yesterday when the turbo starts to spool up I'm hearing a whining sound as it hits boost. It happens in every gear and under all load conditions, from when I'm cursing around to WOT. I've had Stage 3 installed for a little over 20,000 miles now and this is the first issue I've had. It still pulls just as hard and I'm not throwing any codes, but it is a weird sound I've never heard before.
It also doesn't matter if the car is hot or cold, the sound is still there. I'm not blowing any kind of smoke or burning any oil. What can cause something like that?
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So my 2001 1.8t Golf is having some issues holding boost. I have a Gonzo stage 2 tune, CTS FMIC, Forge 008 Diverter, Silicone inlet and MagnaFlow Exhaust. I've also done the whole Evap, SAI delete and installed a catch can.
Starting in 2nd or 3rd at WOT the car spikes up to 18psi and then progressively loses boost throughout the rev range. Close to redline the boost drops to 5 psi or so. It seems to be dependent on the revs. In fifth gear the car holds 18 psi much longer as the revs don't increase as fast.
There are no CELs. I've done multiple leak tests starting at the air box and plugging the pcv/catch can system as well as at the compressor side of the turbo. None of the tests revealed a leak anywhere in the intake system. However, when I stuck my ear very close to the valve cover I could hear what sounded like a very small air leak coming from inside the valve cover. I took a look at the wastegate actuator and it seemed fine, no play in the rod, no loose bolts and to move it just requires enough force to compress the spring and it returned to its original position.
My thoughts are that it could be a fueling issue or turbo in the process of dying maybe.
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Just noticed today that I have a slight drop in boost. Normal boost is 1.5 bar but today it is running slightly lower boost and does not have the same pull through all the gears.
2001 mk4 1.9 tdi golf
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I just recently notice a whistling noise when I hit boost. I'm not sure but it sounds like it is coming from my gauge. I'm not losing boost pressure. I do have a glow shift gauge. The most recent install was the TIP which I clamped on to the turbo but I'm wondering if it isn't on tight enough.
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I was riding along today everything running fine then I came to a stop sign and when I pulled off my car wouldn't run 10 psi of boost it was only running 5 psi so I when to a buddys checked everything over and all my piping looked fine so I went up the road and everything was fine so when I started going home it did the same thing pulled of shut the car off pulled off and it was fine again.
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I think my stock DV is going bad, my car makes a weird noise under boost?
1. Only happens when first starting the car after it has been sitting for an hour or a few. (not overnight)
2. Does NOT happen when first start in morning.
3. Goes away after like 5 minutes every time and the normal WHIIISHH sound comes back like it should when I step on the gas.
4. It does not make the sound at idle.
This recording I made was of my car being revved up after it sat for one hour.
[URL] ...
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So i just noticed this issue the other day. If I downshift from 6th to 5th the car hesitates before it starts to accelerate, this only happens for 5th every other gear is fine. This only happens downshifting from 6th to 5th. What is going on?
-apr flash
-just rolled 56k
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Recently purchased a brand new 2013 R. With ZERO mods on it and 5,000 miles, I flashed the car to UM Stage 1. Immediately after flash I get a noise that sounds like a metal clattering in first and second gear from about 2K to full boost. Happens most audibly when the car is cold but is subtly ever present when heated up.
When the noise occurs I feel as if I'm getting half boost or a very inconsistent boost curve. The boost then kicks in after the 3,500k(ish) threshold. On rare occasions, the car will warm up and run exactly as I would expect it too. 1st, 2nd, 3rd all boost very evenly and strong from 0k and beyond with no noise and the car is amazing to drive.
To try and diagnose the issue, I flashed it back to stock and the noise disappears though I can still feel it not boosting consistently. I took it to the dealer (stock) and they said the didn't notice or couldn't hear anything which was what I expected. I'm guessing it is something the with wastegate but I don't know enough to say with any confidence.
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Replaced my coil packs/sparks, and just got around to changing my N75 valve today. The rough idle issue is gone but now when I go WOT it boosts but goes from 15psi-12-13-12-14-12...etc. I've checked and there are no boost leaks. I do have a CEL saying I need a new bank 1 sensor 1 Oxygen sensor. If it is that, why did this problem arise as soon as I changed the N75 valve and wasn't present earlier?
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I was having an issue with my car not going into boost so I plugged my code reader in and it had 2 codes 1 was p1200 n249 malfunction and the other was diverter valve malfunction so I did the quick easy one and got a new factory diverter valve but it still doesn't go into boost and still reads p1200 n249 what do I need to replace or should I do the n249 bypass it's a bone stock jetta 5 speed.
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I just got done with a complete engine rebuild on my 02 1.8t jetta, had everything hooked back up and went to start it for the first time and it wouldn't. I went back looking for loose connections, nothing. Worked and banged my head for a day or two, I had fuel and spark but couldn't get it to fire. Finally I "choked" the intake to see if it was getting too much air and it fired right up. I unplugged my map sensor giggles and it starts up perfectly. I then hooked everything back up and what do you know it starts up and runs fine, but if I plug the sensor back in it kills the motor after about 10 seconds of running and won't start until I unplug the map again.
Car runs and drives but wont boost over wg pressure but that's probably because sensor itself is unplugged. I just wanna know what could cause it besides the sensor itself being bad. I ordered a new one waiting for it to get here (hoping it fixes the problem).. And I'm talking map (manifold absolute pressure) not maf (mass air flow), just in case people are confused.
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