I have a 03 vw jetta gli and whenever the engine is warm when it was recently on, takes a while to start like 3-5 second but normal when it is a cold start..
View 6 RepliesMmkay.. 2000 GTI VR6.. Will start initially, when engine is cold (sat overnight, or through the work day) but once the engine is at normal running temp, if you shut it off, it wont start. Acts like its out of gas.. have to "prime" and keep hitting the gas pedal while cranking, to (sometimes) get it to start when warm, and then it runs like crap until I get a few miles down the road.
Brand new plugs and wires, and just this evening, pulled a plug, and its obviously fouled, and covered with unburnt gas. Coil Pack maybe?
So I have a 2005 GTI 1.8t and I just recently had a new fuel filter/fuel pump installed.. Now ever morning when I go to start it it starts really hard.. once it's starts it runs fine it just takes me a couple cranks to get it started....
View 6 RepliesIt seems like it takes an awfully long time for the good mileage to get going from a cold start - even when it's warm outside. The last 5 miles of my commute are great, but the first 10 miles not so much. How much effect does ambient air temperature have on this process.
View 15 RepliesI have a 99.5 golf gls with an 02' engine in it. 5 Speed, neuspeed supercharged with a bunch of other stuff done to it.
I've had this issue as long as I've owned the car (3-4 years). Starting the car cold, it usually fires right up and can drive it e, no problem. However, when I get the car up to operating temp and turn the car off, if I immediately try and restart the car it either :
A.) chokes but will fire or
B.) will have a long crank and usually starts hard.
Another thing I noticed is that at low RPM right after the clutch has been engaged, the car seems to almost hesitate like something is holding it back, even if I give it more gas. I have checked my codes with Vag com and the only CEL I have it for not having a post cat o2 sensor (picks up that the heater circuit is unplugged). I also have run some diagnostics on my fuel trim and both long and short term fuel trim are within spec. I tested two different mafs and both were around 2.5g/s at idle. Checked for vac leaks and didn't have any.
I have read that a dead/dying crank sensor can give me the symptoms I have, but I seem to be lacking a symptom where the CEL is on for the sensor, and my car doesn't randomly die when driving. So my question is, have any of you had the same symptoms but no CEL?
When I crank the engine when it's cold, it cranks fine. Case in point: first thing in the morning and in the afternoon when I'm leaving the office to come home. However, if I crank the engine when it's already warm it takes significantly longer to turn over. It really doesn't feel like it wants to crank at all and pumping the gas pedal doesn't work with things even though its second nature from my old carburetor days. The fact that it only acts up when the engine is warm befuddles me! I remember reading something like this awhile ago and the culprit was a clogged "box that dissipates gases". It's a 2003 Passat with the 1.8 turbo. The car has been maintained according to the service schedule and runs like a champ with 100,349 on the odometer.
View 3 RepliesSo, the very first time it happened was the weekend after I installed my new motor mounts I am not sure if it is a coincidence or if there was something that I touched while installing that is causing the car to act this way. So I notice that it's more common on the wet days even though I have started to doubt this recently as well. The instrument cluster illuminates CEL and EPC for a brief second and the car feels like it looses all power and sometimes even stalls when at idle but then after that goes away it runs like a champ. Also ever since this started happening the car is really hard to start after it sits off for few minutes when at normal running temperature. Right, when it happened I tried to scan it and I thought it was the scanner that was not able to communicate with it but that wasn't it since I have tried over 10 different kinds now( that includes the ones that have scanned my car with no problem before). I did have the CEL to stay on once but I still couldn't scan it and it went away by itself or I have reset it by disconnecting the battery. Its really driving me crazy and I am stuck but not giving up on this car, I love it too much and it's been very faithful to me so far! I mean there was literally two days recently when the weather was dry when I drove the thing without the random occurrence of EPC and CEL but it still didn't want to start when warm. In fact, one time after work after it has been sunny all day it didn't want to start when the engine was still cold as well.
The things I have replaced or tried so far that have not repaired it are:
*New Camshaft Sensor
*New Crankshaft Position Sensor
*New Purge Valve
*New Coil Pack
*Took off and cleaned my Throttle Body
*Checked with and OHM meter as many grounds as i could find between battery and they all checked good(the main engine ground looks good)
*Cleaned MAF sensor
*New Coolant Temperature Sensor
*Checked that all fuses were good and seated
*Verified that the k-line is good.
*Able to scan the ABS module and radio through vag com so i know its something with the ECU communication
That's all that I can remember as of now. the car went through many stages but here is how it looks as of now.
[URL]
Car doesn't seem to want to start when warm.
1.8T AWD, 02J swap, no clutch switch (I can start without pressing the clutch).
Cold start, cranks and starts on a dime, after the car warms up and I've turned off the car, say went for a quick grocery run, the car won't start afterwards.
No cranking, nothing. Fuel pump primes, then not a sound. Everything on the dash lights up just fine. No starter motor noise, no clicking.... nada...
Fairly new starter motor pulled from a junkyard donor. Can't think of anything else.
Last time I got stranded in a parking lot, I gave it a few whacks with a tire iron and the car started just fine. Could it be a bad solenoid?
I'm having an issue with my fans on my radiator. They don't turn on when the engine gets warm and the A/C is off. I've replaced the crack pipe, water pump, and belt tensioner. I've replaced the fans not to long ago because the low speed wasn't working. I tested low speed at the fan connector and it wasn't working. After replacing fans I tested and it was working when jumping the pins on the thermo switch connector. I got both low and high speeds to work during that test. I've since replaced the thermo switch to see if it would fix the issue but the fans still won't come on without turning the A/C on. Any other tests I could do or should I just try to get another thermo switch.
View 4 RepliesMy car has 130k miles and has recently developed a worrying noise. It makes an extra whirring sound, like another set of gears spinning, but I don't think I would describe it as a grinding noise. I live in VT and I thought maybe it was my (studless) snow tires making more noise in the warm weather because I noticed it about a month and a half ago when it warmed up. Now that I have my all season tires on, it's still making the noise. The tire guys didn't notice anything wrong when the swap happened (but they only do tires there and I didn't ask them to look for anything).
As far as I can tell it is dependent on wheel speed, not engine speed. It starts at about 20-25mph and gets louder the faster I go. At about 65 the normal road noise is louder than the new noise. If I turn the wheel to the right to any degree the noise goes away. I can't tell if it is completely gone, but it seems like it is. There is no real change if I turn the wheel to the left, though it might get slightly worse. When the noise is going I can feel a vibration in the floorboard that matches the sound. The sound seems like it is coming from in front of me, but I can't really tell if it is left, right, or center. As far as I can tell that is the only new noise, no clicking/griding when I turn the wheel etc.
I'm taking it in for normal 130k maintenance in a week....
I have Golf MK4 1.6 16V BCB '02 and problem while engine is running on idle. Engine works at 1100 rpm (doesn't matter is it cold or warm engine) all the time.
Dashboard turns CHECK ENGINE and EPC lamps and says : "engine workshop". At the beggining of problem VAG-COM diagnostic found this error:
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
But after I've changed my old throttle body with new one VAG-COM diagnostic haven't reported any error (no permanent error) and idle issue stays.
While engine is running and Check engine and EPC lapms are turned on diagnostic reports this error:
17961 Barometric/Manifold pressure signals: Implausible Correlation
P1553-35-10 ----Intermittent
After engine is turned off diagnostic doesn't report any error!
Beside of changing throttle body, I've changed ECM, MAP sensor, temperature sensor, EGR valve, . Also checked intake manifold and hoses if is it leaky (doesn't leak anywhere), and timing belt is ok and checked complete wiring installation!!!
Mk4 Golf City*, 2008, gas, manual, sunroof. Canadian budget-model.
Mysterious noise like WOMMMMM, WOMMMM itinerantly: Noise is only when air conditioning is on and the engine is warm. I can feel vibrations in the brake pedal. *You can't hear the noise under the hood*. It is quite loud in the cab, though, definitely coming from under the dashboard.
I have stuck my nose in. I removed the glove box and listened to the blower motor, it seemed to be coming from further toward the driver's side. It will be like wmmmmOMMMMM WOMMMMM pause WOMMMM like something is vibrating too close to something else and the friction causes it to go back to where it was.
I hit a speed bump going a bit fast. I broke the small cooling fan somehow so it was just loose hanging on its hub. I had that repaired but the noise hasn't gone away. It seems to be getting more frequent but so far there isn't any indication of the car suffering. This is the second summer it has made the noise.It haunts my sleep.
My 2003 Pontiac Grand Am often doesn't start in warm weather. The engine will crank but not start, but if I then leave the key in the run position for exactly ten minutes, the security system seems to calm down and I can switch it off then start the car (a kind tow driver taught me that trick). This doesn't happen in the winter in Pittsburgh, but might happen one start out of six in the summer.
I had the ignition cylinder replaced once, and it took care of the problem for about a year. After it came back, I was told to do exactly the same thing again. At first I decided to punish the dealer by spending another summer loafing in parking lots, but this year I can't take it any more. Should I replace it again? Should a dealer warrant the longevity of the repair?
I'm bench testing my starter and wanted to make sure that it's working as it should before I install it. The plunger comes out and the gear spins as expected, but it takes a second for the gear to pop back in after I disconnect it. I'm worried that it might get stuck on the flywheel if the return spring isn't working as it should.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1996 VW Jetta GL 4 cyl. 2.0L. When the temp. start to warm up the car won't start. I don't know if its the temp. outside, or in the cabin of the car. all the dash lights turn on, and accessories turn on. sometimes I hear a clicking noise, which I think is the sound of electricity going to the starter. I have replaced the starter, alternator, & battery. I had a family friend mechanic look at it for about 3 hrs. and he couldn't figure it out. I have a suspicion that it might be the ignition switch faulting out, but how would I know for sure with out taring apart the steering column?
View 6 RepliesI got a 2010 sonata, just outside of the warranty with 60,400 miles. as of today these problems arose out of nowhere. the husband had trouble starting the vehicle today and got a check engine light. someone came, jumped it, and was good to go.
Well he comes home on break after 20 mins & goes to start the engine again and it takes 2-3 times to actually start. it's seems to be more difficult the longer it sits; if you turn it off and start it again it's less hesitant. we then replace the old battery that happens to be bad as well, with a relatively new one from my car and have the same problem. no more check engine- but it's still hesitating.
Possible starter problem? is something loose?
It driving me crazy. Every 10th start of engine it cranks over and over before it fires up, no codes, changed plugs, wires, crank trigger, fuel filter, upper and lower intake gaskets, injectors, iacv. I have no clue. Runs great all time just starting issue every 10th or so start takes 10- 15 seconds to start
View 2 Replies2012 Golf GTI, bone stock, 18k miles. The issue is pretty straightforward. It takes longer to crank than I feel it should, perhaps 5-6 seconds, sometimes the car is cold, sometimes warm. Sometimes it cranks right up with no issue. A VCDS scan is clean. This is Atlanta weather too, so the temps are pretty mild.
View 6 RepliesOccasionally my 2003 f150 takes longer to start than Id like. Lets say 2-3 seconds before it fires. It turns over plenty fast so Its not a battery crapping out. Runs great once it lights. I replaced the spark plugs but that didn't change it. Once again this just happens every now and then. 120k on the clock. Should I suspect a fuel pump showing its age? Oh, I should also note I changed the fuel filter a few months back.
View 6 RepliesMy car is a 2003 Jetta GLS 1.8t. It has 223000 miles, yet other than normal maintenance it has never had any real issues since I have had it. However, maybe a week and a half ago when I got up to go to work the car wouldn't start. It would turn over, but would never actually start. When I got home from work later in the afternoon I tried again and it was fine. It's been doing this and progressively getting worse ever since.
If I go to start it in the morning, nothing. Wait until 10-11 or so and it'll run in one attempt. What's strange is that temperature does not seem to affect this issue. Some nights I will go out to drive after it has cooled down outside (70 degrees or so) and it will start no problem. Some mornings it's already 80 degrees and I still have no luck.
I have pulled the following DTCs, which keep reappearing after I clear them, making me believe this is an electrical issue:
P0261, P0267, P0270, P0264, (all 4 cylinder injector circuits low) P0445, P0037, P0418, P0010, and P0414.
So far I have replaced both the Secondary air injector relay and ECM relay, pulled and checked every fuse in the car, cleaned the battery terminals, and am about to go out and check every ground.
Having trouble starting my car after getting gas on a low tank. It had appeared to me this was the only time and maybe it was at the time but now I've noticed it happens whenever I turn the car off after its warmed up and been driven and have it left off for several minutes and try to restart it. If I just turn it off and try to turn it back on immediately it will start fine, or if it is left off for 10 minutes or more it will be fine to start back up. It always starts when cold. The jetta is a 2003 1.8t manual transmission, I always let it idle for a short period after driving, longer if driven hard before shutting down. It was suggested to replace the evap purge valve which I did and it has not fixed the issue. Another piece I have replaced recently is the crankshaft position sensor which was to resolve a random stalling problem.
View 10 Replies