Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2004 1.8T GLI - No Vacuum At Boost Gauge
Jul 23, 2015
Bought a 1.8t 04 gli. Was boosting 15 pounds so i did a boost leak test. Found pcv up hose from valve to y pipe at valve cover was almost blown in half, so i replace all of that stuff with oem.
Boost leak test again, found where boost gauge is hooked up to, turbo outlet to n75, the hose was leaking, i fixed that.
Boost leak test yet again, n75 was not clamped down, so clamped that.
Boost leak test one last time, held 10 psi before blowing the cap out of the intake. Which is pretty dangerous, my cap is made out of a spray can cut in half. Sounds like a canon. Anyways i heard zero leaks.
So now I am boosting 18psi and holding perfectly fine. Why I am showing ZERO vacuum on my boost gauge??
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Ever since I got my car about 5/6 months ago I noticed it's not getting full boost. when I first got it the stock boost was getting about 5-7 I don't know if that's normal I've read they normally get more. eventually I got my car tuned and it's supposed to peak at 22 psi but it only got to about 13-14 psi. slowly it's been getting worse and my car is getting 2 psi. I've had lots of people tell me it's a vacuum leak. also the bov makes a flutter noise if that has anything to do with it. my intake doesn't make a sucking in noise like most do. The car has been randomly backfiring usually between gears. I just ordered a turbo inlet pipe a breather hose kit and a boost hose kit.
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Okay, here's the car
AWP 1.8t mk4 GTI.
- stock DP
- Forge 007 splitter adjusted 25 clicks
- Swiss cheese stock intake with k&N high flow
- APR stage 1 93 tune.
My boost gauge is currently reading peak of about 15-16 psi. I replaces some vacuum hoses that appeared to be worn, and to no avail. I have no CEL, and no codes thrown at all. This sound like a boost leak.
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I recently installed a boost gauge on my 2010 Tiguan (Auto, 4 Motion) and was rather surprised by the readings when driving on the freeway.
At around 65-70 MPH on a flat surface, the manifold pressure is just about 0 (range of 1in Hg - 1psi) all the time. I am used to my 1.8t thats runs 10 in hg vacuum at highway speeds. I just find it a little odd that the turbo is working hard enough to relieve the intake of all vacuum, and sometimes even boost while driving with hardly any engine load.
My gauge reads 20 vacuum at idle and 15-18lbs max boost with apr software. What readings does every else here see? Any difference between auto and manual?
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I own a 2004 Jetta 1.8t, about 6 months ago i had an oil leak problem and a cracked vacuum line. i fixed the oil leak and fixed the cracked line with 034 motor sports pcv hose kit. I snapped 2 more vacuum lines and repaired them with rubber hose. p0300, p0301, p0507, p0171, p0303. Are the codes I am currently having actually have had them for just over 6 months. I've replaced all plugs, I've upgraded to ecs tuning 2.0 coils. No fix, went back to oem coils which I am using now. It runs pretty good until i clear the codes. Then idles all over the place and the boost gauge bounces all over.
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So popped my plastic shroud off to change my oil and thought it was strange the the hose for the boost gauge was really oily. Is it normal?
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I just worked on my car for a week and it was jacked up with the rear end squatted down and now when i corner the fuel gauge goes down.
2004 1.8t jetta ....
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I live in Scotland so have a right hand drive 2003 MKIV R32. I got a VF stage 1 kit fitted last year and now I want to fit a boost gauge. I've bought a NewSouth indigo 0-30 psi gauge and a column pod.
What I need to know is where to take the feed from, where is the best place to fit the vacuum tube to get the best readings? any photos would be good.
I plan on fitting it this weekend along with my oil pressure gauge.
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I purchased a P3Cars gauge and an analog boost sensor with an ECS boost tap. I seem to be getting some fluttering noise at higher boost (greater than about 15 psi).
It was my understanding that digital boost gauges didn't buzz, so I thought I high have some movement of the boost sensor, hose, or the interface box for the gauge. I've got these pretty well padded and fixed with zip ties.
Do I need to get an inline restrictor (cotton swab, filter or otherwise) to eliminate this fluttering noise?
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I ordered the gauge kit, installed it with the printed out DIY (CIMs)
Looks great, everything is tight, no leaks. All power going to the gauge (even the dimmer).
When power is connected via the plug in the back of the gauge, the needle goes from -30 to 30, full swing like some newer vehicles, not when the car is turned on.
Here's the problem, is doesnt read anything. Sits at -30 at idle, rev (limiter) and under load. The DIY says it should be somewhere around -20 at idle.
The only thing I can think of is the pressure sending unit is broken. I know faulty equipment is not uncommon and I'm not mad if that is the case as long as it gets resolved, I just want to get this thing working. This is NOT a bash against CIM either, I don't want anyone getting the wrong idea.
Also, I used a forge boost tap. Everything tight, and secure, no leaks going to the filter, or the 4" hose from filter to psi sending unit. Did I miss anything that's not in the write up? Early 11 model DSG MKVI
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I installed a VF intake a few weeks back and noticed my car is peaking at around 14-15 PSI max according to my boost gauge, when it used to hit 17 peak. I'm not sure if I may have a leak nor have I checked it via vag-com.
It does feel a bit off, but for as far as I know the gauge could be messed up now.
Just wondering if there would be any immediate signs (sounds etc...) of whether there would be a leak, or what other problems may cause this.
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My boost gauge is bouncing around during the flutter at peak psi? I have a apr stg 2 evoms intake and full tbe exhaust 42dd...
Here is a exact video of the flutter i am talking about [URL] ....
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Recently ran into an issue where my boost gauge stopped reading correctly and makes a weird buzzing sound under acceleration. (Whenever I am generating positive boost).
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I suspected I had a vacuum leak somewhere, was told it wasn't likely. Just installed a tune in the evening drove it 15 miles was pretty sure I had one.
Installed Forge DV the next morning it was evident I had one by the sound the DV was Making. I checked the car head to toe and found two lines had broken apart. I replaced them will silicone lines and it appeared to be fixed.
Drove it 5 miles and the 'turkey sound' came back. (This is the sound that I originally heard and confirmed I had a vacuum leak somewhere)
I searched all over there car, had a second set of eyes that was mechanically inclined and we found nothing obviously causing a problem. We ended up just taking off the Forge DV and testing it by hand it held up and re installing it and securing it.
Strange enough that fixed the problem (no other hoses were tampered with while we were inspecting)
Drove the car home about 15 miles and stopped in a drive through. At some point while sitting something happened. Cause when I left the drive through then I noticed the car seemed to be lacking at low end, turned down the music and I could hear the turkey call. I left the car alone for the night. Thought maybe heat jas a factor in this. Drove it this morning and it was just how I left it. I inspected the hoses and found no change. I took the DV off and inspected then re installed. I noticed the turkey call was not as predominant but still completely present.
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my car into VAG COM and since then it hasn't boosted past 4 lbs. it has Revo stg 2, K04, aftermarket side mount, full exhaust and a couple other bolt ons. Before the car was spiking at around 23/24 lbs. after pressure testing the system I found that the turbo inlet pipe was lose, so I tightened it. Still no change. I tried holding the battery terminals together for 10 minutes to reset the ecu and I also tried clearing the codes through a handheld code reader. No codes even come up anyways for this. The car is a 1.8T.
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I need replacement vacuum hose part for my GTI 337. The piece that is disconnected is the hose from the break booster to the intake manifold. It appears to be at a one way valve. I found a picture from a different DIY, that I have circled in green. The red arrow points to the place where it separated. I am not sure if this is a matter of me using a new clamp or buying a new piece of hose from advanced auto parts. The vacuum sets on ECS Tuning and it doesn't appear to be the correct set.
[URL].........
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So my 2001 1.8t Golf is having some issues holding boost. I have a Gonzo stage 2 tune, CTS FMIC, Forge 008 Diverter, Silicone inlet and MagnaFlow Exhaust. I've also done the whole Evap, SAI delete and installed a catch can.
Starting in 2nd or 3rd at WOT the car spikes up to 18psi and then progressively loses boost throughout the rev range. Close to redline the boost drops to 5 psi or so. It seems to be dependent on the revs. In fifth gear the car holds 18 psi much longer as the revs don't increase as fast.
There are no CELs. I've done multiple leak tests starting at the air box and plugging the pcv/catch can system as well as at the compressor side of the turbo. None of the tests revealed a leak anywhere in the intake system. However, when I stuck my ear very close to the valve cover I could hear what sounded like a very small air leak coming from inside the valve cover. I took a look at the wastegate actuator and it seemed fine, no play in the rod, no loose bolts and to move it just requires enough force to compress the spring and it returned to its original position.
My thoughts are that it could be a fueling issue or turbo in the process of dying maybe.
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Just noticed today that I have a slight drop in boost. Normal boost is 1.5 bar but today it is running slightly lower boost and does not have the same pull through all the gears.
2001 mk4 1.9 tdi golf
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I just recently notice a whistling noise when I hit boost. I'm not sure but it sounds like it is coming from my gauge. I'm not losing boost pressure. I do have a glow shift gauge. The most recent install was the TIP which I clamped on to the turbo but I'm wondering if it isn't on tight enough.
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I was riding along today everything running fine then I came to a stop sign and when I pulled off my car wouldn't run 10 psi of boost it was only running 5 psi so I when to a buddys checked everything over and all my piping looked fine so I went up the road and everything was fine so when I started going home it did the same thing pulled of shut the car off pulled off and it was fine again.
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I think my stock DV is going bad, my car makes a weird noise under boost?
1. Only happens when first starting the car after it has been sitting for an hour or a few. (not overnight)
2. Does NOT happen when first start in morning.
3. Goes away after like 5 minutes every time and the normal WHIIISHH sound comes back like it should when I step on the gas.
4. It does not make the sound at idle.
This recording I made was of my car being revved up after it sat for one hour.
[URL] ...
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