Golf VI R :: P3Cars Gauge With Analog Boost Noise?
Aug 28, 2015
I purchased a P3Cars gauge and an analog boost sensor with an ECS boost tap. I seem to be getting some fluttering noise at higher boost (greater than about 15 psi).
It was my understanding that digital boost gauges didn't buzz, so I thought I high have some movement of the boost sensor, hose, or the interface box for the gauge. I've got these pretty well padded and fixed with zip ties.
Do I need to get an inline restrictor (cotton swab, filter or otherwise) to eliminate this fluttering noise?
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The P3cars gauge to read battery voltage is misleading since it is reading the voltage when the alternator is running. How do i get it to read the actual battery voltage without the engine running?
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I have a problem with my fuel gauge, after a fuel tank cleaning it stops working. I check both senders and seems to be OK, but the digital gauge is blinking and the analog gauge is down to zero. I measure the resistance value directly on the senders plugs and shows 100 ohms at the end. I check the wires between the senders and both are OK. I need to know if the car computer must be resettled after a gauge failure, or there is only a sender malfunction. I want to fix this by myself. I need a service manual or a wiring diagram to do this?
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So popped my plastic shroud off to change my oil and thought it was strange the the hose for the boost gauge was really oily. Is it normal?
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Okay, here's the car
AWP 1.8t mk4 GTI.
- stock DP
- Forge 007 splitter adjusted 25 clicks
- Swiss cheese stock intake with k&N high flow
- APR stage 1 93 tune.
My boost gauge is currently reading peak of about 15-16 psi. I replaces some vacuum hoses that appeared to be worn, and to no avail. I have no CEL, and no codes thrown at all. This sound like a boost leak.
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Bought a 1.8t 04 gli. Was boosting 15 pounds so i did a boost leak test. Found pcv up hose from valve to y pipe at valve cover was almost blown in half, so i replace all of that stuff with oem.
Boost leak test again, found where boost gauge is hooked up to, turbo outlet to n75, the hose was leaking, i fixed that.
Boost leak test yet again, n75 was not clamped down, so clamped that.
Boost leak test one last time, held 10 psi before blowing the cap out of the intake. Which is pretty dangerous, my cap is made out of a spray can cut in half. Sounds like a canon. Anyways i heard zero leaks.
So now I am boosting 18psi and holding perfectly fine. Why I am showing ZERO vacuum on my boost gauge??
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I live in Scotland so have a right hand drive 2003 MKIV R32. I got a VF stage 1 kit fitted last year and now I want to fit a boost gauge. I've bought a NewSouth indigo 0-30 psi gauge and a column pod.
What I need to know is where to take the feed from, where is the best place to fit the vacuum tube to get the best readings? any photos would be good.
I plan on fitting it this weekend along with my oil pressure gauge.
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I ordered the gauge kit, installed it with the printed out DIY (CIMs)
Looks great, everything is tight, no leaks. All power going to the gauge (even the dimmer).
When power is connected via the plug in the back of the gauge, the needle goes from -30 to 30, full swing like some newer vehicles, not when the car is turned on.
Here's the problem, is doesnt read anything. Sits at -30 at idle, rev (limiter) and under load. The DIY says it should be somewhere around -20 at idle.
The only thing I can think of is the pressure sending unit is broken. I know faulty equipment is not uncommon and I'm not mad if that is the case as long as it gets resolved, I just want to get this thing working. This is NOT a bash against CIM either, I don't want anyone getting the wrong idea.
Also, I used a forge boost tap. Everything tight, and secure, no leaks going to the filter, or the 4" hose from filter to psi sending unit. Did I miss anything that's not in the write up? Early 11 model DSG MKVI
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Noticed today that I can have the multi-function display -- AKA MFD -- show the speed. Is it more accurate than the "analog" speedometer?
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I own a 2004 Jetta 1.8t, about 6 months ago i had an oil leak problem and a cracked vacuum line. i fixed the oil leak and fixed the cracked line with 034 motor sports pcv hose kit. I snapped 2 more vacuum lines and repaired them with rubber hose. p0300, p0301, p0507, p0171, p0303. Are the codes I am currently having actually have had them for just over 6 months. I've replaced all plugs, I've upgraded to ecs tuning 2.0 coils. No fix, went back to oem coils which I am using now. It runs pretty good until i clear the codes. Then idles all over the place and the boost gauge bounces all over.
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I installed a VF intake a few weeks back and noticed my car is peaking at around 14-15 PSI max according to my boost gauge, when it used to hit 17 peak. I'm not sure if I may have a leak nor have I checked it via vag-com.
It does feel a bit off, but for as far as I know the gauge could be messed up now.
Just wondering if there would be any immediate signs (sounds etc...) of whether there would be a leak, or what other problems may cause this.
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My boost gauge is bouncing around during the flutter at peak psi? I have a apr stg 2 evoms intake and full tbe exhaust 42dd...
Here is a exact video of the flutter i am talking about [URL] ....
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Recently ran into an issue where my boost gauge stopped reading correctly and makes a weird buzzing sound under acceleration. (Whenever I am generating positive boost).
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Was driving back home from shopping tonight and my truck was making a lot of noise when I tried to accelerate. I noticed the boost gauge on the dash was stuck at 35psi but the MiniMaxx showed 0psi.
No engine light so I babied it home which was about 30mins driving and managed to accelerate slowly to avoid the engine rattling. I didn't want to shut it down and restart in case it wouldn't start again for some reason.
When I got home I idled until EGT was <300F like I normally do (it never went over 700F when I was driving home) and then restarted it. The gauges worked fine, MiniMax showed boost and the engine revved freely with no rattling noise. I haven't taken it out for a road test, I'll do that when it's daylight.
Bad sensor somewhere? I would think if the turbo had failed it wouldn't have been fine after a restart.
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I just recently notice a whistling noise when I hit boost. I'm not sure but it sounds like it is coming from my gauge. I'm not losing boost pressure. I do have a glow shift gauge. The most recent install was the TIP which I clamped on to the turbo but I'm wondering if it isn't on tight enough.
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I think my stock DV is going bad, my car makes a weird noise under boost?
1. Only happens when first starting the car after it has been sitting for an hour or a few. (not overnight)
2. Does NOT happen when first start in morning.
3. Goes away after like 5 minutes every time and the normal WHIIISHH sound comes back like it should when I step on the gas.
4. It does not make the sound at idle.
This recording I made was of my car being revved up after it sat for one hour.
[URL] ...
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I'm having a strange, very high-pitched, noise that seems to be coming from my turbo or (possibly) somewhere else in the engine bay. It sounds very screechy, and it may be paranoia, but I believe it also may have a slight metallic sound to it.
It all started yesterday after changing the thermostat housing for the third time in 2 days (autozone sold me a faulty, warped, housing that leaked after install). During this repair the engine never overheated (it did however leak fluid and go a little low) and the main point for replacement was a stuck thermostat. After finally getting it fixed I took it for a test drive and noticed the horrid noise after hitting a good amount of boost (no gauge installed). The noise occurs when boosting and doesn't happen when spooling in the 3k-4k range. I had no hint of the noise before this.
There doesn't seem to be any drop in performance and it still pulls hard. Hoping this to be a loose exhaust connection or boost leak. May be spooling sound escaping.
Mods:
- short ram air intake with an aem filter
- 3" turbo-back exhausted
- revo chipped
- 4 bar fpr
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I have a 2011 GTI, with an apr chip and apr intake stage 1. Car is brand new 4000 miles
When hitting boost in 3rd-6th gear i hear a fluttering sound between 3500rpm and 5000rpm after 5000rpm the sound either dissipates or is drowned out by the motor.
I've done a lot of research around this sound and i havent been able to find a certain answer, it could be compression surge (i wouldn't see why), a leaky DV ( also cant see why because the 2011 has the new revision D piston actuated DV), A fluttering wastegate.
Sage 1 apr chip and stage 1 apr intake...
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I have a 02 Jetta TDI with 186k miles. Couple weeks ago it all of a sudden started making boost noise when I was driving to work and then on the way back I was getting almost no power. Like over boost and under boost issue, so I assumed it was the MAP sensor. I got busy next couple weeks and then tried to start the car but now the car is not starting.
Completely charged the battery so its not the battery. Looked online and it seemed like it could be the 109 relay for the fuel pump. I pulled the back seat off and I can't hear the fuel pump prime up. I got a new relay from auto zone and put it in, still same thing. I don't want to have to replace the fuel pump only to find out its not the fuel pump. I ran the code and I'm getting the P1556 code (charge pressure control negative deviation).
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Recently purchased a brand new 2013 R. With ZERO mods on it and 5,000 miles, I flashed the car to UM Stage 1. Immediately after flash I get a noise that sounds like a metal clattering in first and second gear from about 2K to full boost. Happens most audibly when the car is cold but is subtly ever present when heated up.
When the noise occurs I feel as if I'm getting half boost or a very inconsistent boost curve. The boost then kicks in after the 3,500k(ish) threshold. On rare occasions, the car will warm up and run exactly as I would expect it too. 1st, 2nd, 3rd all boost very evenly and strong from 0k and beyond with no noise and the car is amazing to drive.
To try and diagnose the issue, I flashed it back to stock and the noise disappears though I can still feel it not boosting consistently. I took it to the dealer (stock) and they said the didn't notice or couldn't hear anything which was what I expected. I'm guessing it is something the with wastegate but I don't know enough to say with any confidence.
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2012 TDI ... OK so out of nowhere, my car is making loud turbo whoosh noise, while I love the way it sounds, it's not normal or intentional, so I don't like it lol. I have an AWE intake, and a gutted turbo resonance damper. Is been fine and same sound ever since those mods but now out of nowhere it is really loud with the whooshing of the turbo.
Small video of it... [URL] ....
Pictures of turbo area .....
Anything look wrong? I circled that one area but wouldn't know if that's normal or not....
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