Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2004.5 GLI - Loud Noise When Let Off Gas And Just Cruise
Apr 23, 2015
When I am done accelerating and let off the gas and just cruise, i am getting a decently loud noise, enough so that you want to keep your foot on the accelerator a bit because under acceleration there is no noise. No noise at idle either. It's like downshifting to a lower gear at a higher rpm and how the engine noise is loud...but I think it's the tranny or something.
My mechanic (who is amazing) thinks it is the dual mass flywheel.
It is a 2004.5 GLI 6spd with 122,000 miles on the original clutch.
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So I have a 2004 gti that makes a very loud noise when i turn the wheel even slightly to the left there is also a vibration that shakes the whole right side of the car. I assumed based on the sound and vibration that it was the wheel bearing. the bearing was shot but when i replaced it nothing changed. so it has a brand new wheel bearing and the cv joint is good ive already checked it everything seems to be as it should. i cant think of anything else it could be. What the problem could be caused by?
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My car has started making this loud whistling noise. It only happens when right after starting it when it's sat for a few hours and fades out within 30 seconds but has lasted for a couple minutes before. It drives fine but I know the sound isn't normal. Here's a video of the noise: [URL] ....
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2005 Jetta. The car makes a loud deep humming noise once I hit about 75mph, and goes away once I get to about 82 or so. I've taken it out of gear and matched the rpm I get at those speeds, and I don't hear the noise at all. It's only when I'm in gear. What this could be?
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My jetta started making a loud screeching noise on initial start up, it only last a split second and sometimes it doesn't do it, I read it maybe my bushings need greased, but I didn't know if maybe it was something to do with my flywheel bc with my window down and at idle I can hear a faint tapping noise, I push the clutch in the noise goes away, car starts up fine with no hesitation and also shifts smooth...
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I recently found out when I open the door to my mk4 jetta it starts to make this loud ticking noise. It happen when I open only three doors the two front and the rear passenger. I have no clue what it is i even asked my mechanic who has been working on volkswagens for years and he said hes never heard anything like it.
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Car was overheating for a long time. Went to start it and wouldn't start. Its been sitting for a while so I replaced the battery and now when the battery is connected its making a loud humming noise. And still no start. It turns over and sounds like its trying to start just won't start.
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I did a lot of searching on this, but can't seem to come to a solid conclusion. I have a 01 VR6, When I put my air circulation (warm or cold, doesn't matter) to 1 or 2 on vent control, its fine. However, when i put it to 3 or 4, there is a LOUD kind of "whirring" type air noise that comes from the Passenger Glove Box area. I also feel a little bit of the vibration on the brake pad. Not sure what this is?....
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2005 jetta. On the highway when I hit about 75mph I hear this loud humming coming from either the engine or the exhaust, I'm not sure. It disappears immediately once I cross about 82mph. What could this be? Why such a specific range?
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I own a 2003 VW Jetta 1.8T GL Model.
When in Idle the car starts to make a ticking noise and tends to get louder the longer it sits. On top of this the idle does seem louder than when I first got the car like a constant purring noise if that makes sense. I am only able to hear the ticking while in idle, but the purring noise is continuous even while driving. I'm not sure what the problem could be but have the necessary funds to make some repairs on my car though not tons.
My car currently has approximately 128,500 miles on the engine. I'd like to keep this car running for a long time.
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I've searched but can't find what my problem is , ON idle when clutch is not depressed loud ticking noise , but when I push the clutch in it goes away . Also the ticking noise will get louder if I accelerate . ONLY Im first gear will I hear a loud grinding noise which means I have to quickly switch into second . Sound similar to something being dragged along a fence . Again the grinding sound I'm first will only happen if I'm giving it gas. Car has 325,000 km . Something with the transmission ?
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I have never seen a car with more electrical problems in my entire life. Everything is wrong with this thing. Driver door controls don't work. The only way to get the driver door to roll down is if i take the positive of my battery and put it back on, boom window rolls up and down for 10 mins and than stops working. It literally seems like if i take the positive off my battery it solves all my issues and everything works. The car wont even start in 15 degree weather. I don't even want to know how long it will take me to start this thing in -30 weather. Its got a very loud knocking noise in the right rear. I Haven't been able to go to school for a week cause the thing is stuck in my driveway.
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2004 Jetta GLI 2.8 ... Tonight I started getting a coolant leak somewhere on passenger side. There is also a loud noticeable ticking coming from that area but it is NOT the engine. Slow steady tick, just to the left of engine (when looking head on). Car also began to overheat. Coolant reservoir is full, too flow to be honest, but I don't see any leaks from there. No check engine light is on. Car does NOT leak coolant when off. Only when running and putting load on engine. At idle I cannot see any leakage. Thoughts? I'm thinking perhaps water pump? 87k on the car. Original pump from what I can tell. Bought the car a week ago.
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I am plagued with p0170. Since it started getting the code I have Cleaned maf sensor that was on car (didn't work).
Replaced maf sensor with cheap generic replacement (didn't work).
Thinking it was just a cheap maf I bought a not cheap oem one (didn't work )
Replaced front o2 sensor (didn't work)
Tested intake track for leaks. (No leaks ) boost gauge also reads 25 in hg which also means no major leaks from what I read Tested fuel pressure, and it was perfect.
Changed spark plugs to nkg coppers gapped at .28 (I have a stage 2 ecu but am currently using stock one until issues resolved )
Only think I have not replaced are the spark plug coils and the map sensor.
I also plan on getting a after market wideband o2 sensor so I can see what's going on.
It also seems to pop up when I cruise around 30-40mph. I have taken the car for long drives after clearing codes on high ways amd high speed roads going 45+ and the code won't pop then. Only seems to at lower speeds .
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The cruise worked perfect before I lowered the car and now it works occasionally.. It was on most of the 10 hour drive to this part of Florida and around town it's worked but has started to act up a bit again now.. Sometimes the cruise light will flash and then won't work but other times it's fine any input? The car is an otherwise stock AWP at 107k miles..
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I had a motor go bad, overheated, replaced it with another motor. Got it all back together and upon test drive I am having a low rpm (below 3k) bad hesitation/misfire. The engine runs just fine at wide open throttle.
First thing i checked for were plug wires and vacuum leaks. The only difference between the old block and the new block is the fact that i replaced the MAF with a new one, as i was getting a maf code on the old engine. I can't get it to throw a code...
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I was driving today and my cruise control light came on and wouldn't turn off. i vagcom'd the car and a code came up which was:
Cruise control switch (E45): Implausable signal
P1569 - 35 - 10 ---- Intermittent
I tried clearing it but it would but the light remains on. I noticed that when i hit the RES button on the stalk, the light goes away and when that when I scanned the car and held the RES button the code would come back. My cruise control also stopped working.
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03 Jetta. The cruise has not been working. Turning cruise on and off works fine as light comes on on dash. Brake pedal switch was replace about a year ago, and I don't think that is the problem because when this was the car would actually go into limp mode.
Just checked the clutch pedal switch by jumping the plug (This was the blue switch lower on the pedal), and still no cruise function. I'm really leaning toward it being the "set" switch/button on the steering wheel as this just feels kinda broken. Did I test the clutch pedal switch correctly? Any other reason the cruise would stop working?
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So noticed my cruise control does not work when I turn switch to on position the green light in cluster does not come on what are some problems that I could look into and also any example of using turn signal Bulbs in the head lights as drl lights instead of it running off of the actually headlight bulb?
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I am proud new owner of a 03 Mk4 Bora GLI. I have some issues that I could use a hand with. My symptoms are as follows:
1. Speedometer stopped working.
2. Fuel gauge goes on the fritz (rapidly declines) when parked on an incline or going around corners.
3. Cruise control does not work. "Cruise" light come on the dash but the set/reset button on the stalk does nothing.
Note: All fuses are in tact.
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MKIV Jetta wagon 2004. Bought used last year. Four previous owners with 125K on it.
Problem: After oil change where I previously had 5W-30 with valvoline dino, I changed with a different brand 5W-30 (Peak brand). Ticking noise started immediately from engine area usually only after it got up to temperature. Also using different oil filter. Initially not sure if it was injector or lifter tick. It ended up being lifter tick, and the give away was when going down a small hill and the engine downshifting, the increase RPM caused the tick to increase at the same rate. So here is the path I went down.
1. Swapped out oil filter - no change. I thought this might work because I was using a fram tough guard.
2. Added some rislone with ZDDP additive. Quieted down the valvetrain quite a bit, but did not solve the problem
3. Added rislone engine treatment. Got better, but still not totally solved.
4. Tried to "drive it out" and get some mileage on the rislone . Didn't work. Definitely better though
Finally, after all that I figured let's give my baby some of the thick sauce. So I pulled out a quart from the diptube with my suction device and put in a quart of 10W-40. Almost immediately PROBLEM GONE. So either that crappy peak oil doesn't have the viscosity that it advertises, or the valve train is just getting old and needs a little bit thicker oil in the summer. Probably both. I will also keep using a small dose of the ZDDP additive to extend the life of the valvetrain, as it sounds really good with that stuff in the system.
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