Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2005 - Intermittent Check Engine Light
Aug 10, 2016
2005 Golf TDI... I'm due for a smog check, and of course, in the last few weeks I've been getting some check engine lights intermittently. I'd rather take care of the problem before trying to smog. Anyway, here are the codes.
Confirmed
P0674 - Cylinder 4 glow plug circuit/open
P0673 - Cylinder 3 glow plug circuit/open
Pending
P0101 - Mass or Volume air flow "A" circuit range/performance
To be honest, I haven't learned all that much about my Golf TDI. Just normal maintenance. So, I don't know where to start.
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My 2005 Dodge Dokota 4.7L V8 152,000 miles has an intermittent check engine light (CEL) code P0420 ('catalylst efficiency') that turns itself off.
1) 151,000 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer.
2) 151,948 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer (Cat Conv).
3) 152,200 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at local auto parts store.
4) 152,597 CEL on. No checks.
5) 152,815 CEL turned off on its own
6) 152,849 CEL on. No checks.
7) 153,137 CEL turned off on its own.
Twice in this time CEL has came on soon after a fill up from near empty.
Engine runs fine, 18-19 mpg highway.
Have seen numerous on-line reports of other possible causes:
a) base engine problems (coolant or oil) -- coolant temp sensor
b) Air inleakage -- air systems or manifold
c) Lazy front O2 sensor
d) fuel pumps
e) timing or misfire
f) what else? - (gas cap, other...)
What to check first or categories to eliminate?
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2005 Dodge Neon SXT 2.0 engine
At first I would have an intermittent jumpy speedo then today it got worse and all of a sudden the check engine light popped on. Got it scanned and had three transmission related codes come on including the gear one incorrect ratio code (can not remember the other three). My first suspect was the VSS output. Replaced the sensor and took it for a test drive; no speedo no shifting. Took it back and and got a new one same issue with the replacement.
The tranny fluid was recently changed just after 203,xxx miles. Believe I am the third owner of this car. Seems to have been well cared for in the past. Recently also did some other work that was not transmission related when I first purchased the vehicle.
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So for the past few weeks my check engine light has been on. I have a mechanic friend that scanned the computer and says i have a running lean code.... says it could be anything. So i have been driving the car since and now the epc light and drive train lights are coming on... car revs up and down and sounds like is going to die... got the car scanned and says something about the throttle position sensor... before all the lights started coming on i got my fuel pump replaced..... could a faulty fuel pump be the cause? I had my mechanic, clean the throttle body and it ran good for a few days... now the problem is back... I have a 2004 1.8 gti. Do i have to replace the throttle position sensor? Fuel pump again? New throttle body again? I read somewhere on here that a guy replaced some wires near the ECM and the problem went away...
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So I get back from being stationed in Korea for the past 2 years. I get my car out of storage and the check engine light is on. I scan it and get P0601. I do some searching on the Tex and see that it's the ecu. I'm tuned on APR. the question is can I take it to a local APR dealer here in Houston and get the ecu looked at?
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I'm new to the VW world and just bought a 2002 Jetta 1.6SR about two weeks ago. I just realized that when I turn the ignition on before cranking, all the lights come up except the CEL and traction control light. There are no codes stored when we checked it with a scanner. I took apart the cluster today to check if someone had taped in front of the LED but there was nothing, and the LED was intact, it just won't light up! I put everything back together and when I turned the ignition on.
I realized that the traction control light came on for the first time but still nothing for the CEL. I turned ignition off and on again, this time both the traction control and CEL didn't come on. Whenever I unplug the cluster and install it again, the traction control light will come on once, then if I turn the ignition off then on again, it will stop working. I even removed the MAF sensor to test the CEL but it never came on! All the fuses are intact as well... So my question is, is this a faulty cluster, LED, or is something wrong with my ECU?
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Getting an emissions code. I deleted the emissions with the delete kit. Used the plug in resistors that came with the kit that is supposed to keep the cel off. Here's the code.
P1426 evap emission system purge control valve circuit open .
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So I heard from a friend you can use a 330ohm 10w resistor to bypass a check engine light cause from deleting the evap and SAI? I have an 03 gti 1.8t
The buddy that told me drives an 01 gti vr6. He wired the resistor to the evap sensor and it cleared the evap code but now Has a code for the SAI. Any information on how to do this to my car successfully (1.8t)?
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MK4 GTi - My check engine light came on a few days ago and when I checked it, it pulled code P0420.
Just this morning, the check engine light went away.
Is this a common issue? Or should I go get it checked just in case?
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So my gf's check engine light on her 01 Golf flashes once in a while, and it misfires. But the thing is, it doesn't stay on, and it's once in a while (like once or twice a week). She has new spark plugs, and new wires. I have a feeling it's the coil pack, but I really don't know if it needs to be replaced until the check engine light actually stays on.
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Just a few days ago I was driving and I noticed as I went over 35 mph my car would stutter and the check engine light would start flashing. And when I slowed back down the car drove fine. I'm wondering what the problem could be? Feels like the car is losing power. Car is currently at 119k miles.
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2004 VW jetta 2.0 ... So my vehicle stalled on me i replaced the battery, the alt, and then when i started it after installing the new alternator it didn't sound right so i checked it out and saw a spark plug wire was in very bad condition and was causing a spark where the spark plug and the spark plug wire connect so i bought a new set of spark plug wires and swapped the old ones for the new ones. Now when i start my vehicle the check engine light is blinking and the car definitely does not sound right. i am positive i did everything correct when swapping the spark plug wires but i am lost as to what could be the issue.
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I recently got a 2001 Mk4 GTI from carter Volkswagen in Seattle with 113k on it last friday (it did come with the car fax). I drove it back home to Wenatchee and it ran fine and is still running fine... I think. Today as i was coming home from school the check engine light came on when i was in 3rd gear and the car just wasn't driving as smooth as it was the first day (it felt as if i was driving over really really small bumps or like something was loose and was moving around a lot).
When I would get to a red light and be in first gear the light went off but it came back on as i would shift into 3rd and stayed on when i got into 5th. It recently had its oil changed at 112,000 miles. Also when the car is just idling the tachometer is going up and down a little bit, it is idling at about 600-700 rpms. I got this car because i didn't want to have a car with problems any more (I had an 88 Isuzu Trooper before).
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Just installed a short Ram intake on my 2000 Vw Jetta 1.8t. Had the Intake for about 250 miles and now the check engine light came on. Just pulled the code p0411 secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected. Is this just cause there is more air going through the MAF sensor?
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I just bought a 2000 GTI with the 1.8 turbo. It was very affordable, but it had a few problems. On hard rides, the check engine light was blinking AND I think there was too much oil in the crankcase (I say "think" because the dipstick funnel is gone and I'm not sure how far down the dipstick should go -- new one is on order).
I got rid of the extra oil, and now if I keep the oil in the hatched area of the dipstick (with the dipstick pushed down as far as it goes), the check engine light will never blink even under hard driving. But with the oil that low, the oil light will flash and beep on hard turns. I was experimenting, adding a little oil at a time, and hoping to find the magical sweet spot where neither the check engine light nor the oil light would go off. Instead, tonight I found the opposite -- the sour spot where BOTH of them go off.
So now I'm thinking maybe I need to change to a thicker oil. This car has 124,000 miles on it and was recently refilled with 0w-40. On my last car (a 1994 Golf with the 2.0 liter and 140,000 miles), the oil light would beep on hot days. I solved that permanently by changing from 0w-40 to Mobil 1 15w-50.
Finally, I checked the codes and it said there was a misfire in #2 cylinder as well as general misfiring So I checked the plugs and discovered that the previous idiot had gapped the #2 plug at 1/8 inch! So I (the present idiot) regapped them all and the engine seems to run better, but maybe going for months with such a huge gap has already fried the #2 coil. Should I just replace it? (or all of them?)
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I just did the plugs and now the check engine light is on?
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I have a 2001 jetta 2.0 engine with only 130k on it. Yesterday I replaced the battery and everything was fine but then today as I started it up to go to work I started moving and the check engine light was flashing for catalyst damage. I heard that sometimes coil packs will pop if you change the battery.
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I have a 2000 jetta 1.8t. Check engine light recently came on and the code is a PO1128. I replaced the maf sensor and that did nothing but make the car run worse. I've check for vacuum leaks and found a busted line at the egr valve, fixed the line, reset the code only to have the check engine light come back on with the same code. I am at a loss now.
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My 04 GTI 1.8T got the infamous codes P0300, P0303 and P0301 yesterday morning. The check-engine light flash when I drive it. It is a little rough when the check-engine light flashes, but it is drivable and nothing major. When the car idle or when it come to a complete stop for 15 seconds or so, the check-engine light goes away and it comes back after 15 seconds or so after took off from stop.
I cleaned the MAF last night, but the check-engine light still acts the same way as yesterday on the way work this morning. The codes refer to miss-fire. This is my first VW.
Since I can easily get sparkplug from Checkers, I'll try it first. Checkers carries Autolite, ACDelco, NGK and Champions. Which brand do you prefer for VW engine? I hope that it is not the coil pack. It is expensive for $30 each at ECS Tuning.
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I've been having an issue with my car and the check engine light is on.
The code reads : P0030
Heated oxygen sensor - bank 1 sensor 1
heater control circuit
2001 VW GTI VR6 ....
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My car developed a new light on the dash. Whenever I start to drive my e brake light comes on and stays on the entire drive. It randomly started doing this? It's a 05 1.8t tri with the o2j ...
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