I bought some coilover for my mk4 Jetta, and the two front coilover just don't seem write, they are sticking way to much from where they need to be at, and they are hitting my hood..
View 24 RepliesI installed 2 new axles and replaced the upper motor mounts in my car. Now when I turn to the right the left front tire is running against the coilover and making my car vibrate. I put a 5mm spacer to give it some clearance but it didn't make much of a difference. What could be wrong?
View 2 RepliesInstalled a set of ultimos about 2 weeks ago. Replaced everything. Control arms, ball joints, mounts, bushings, pinch bolts. And I'm hearing a squeaking noise in the rear. Just started noticing it Saturday after we had a very hard rain.. Could it be from them being wet?
View 4 RepliesThis previous weekend, my buddies and I finally got my FK coilovers installed on my GTI. I have heard that people say there is a little bit of rattling upon them getting properly seated. Well it has been 4 days of driving and now sounds like the rattling has gotten worse! I took it into a local suspension shop and they couldn't put a thumb on it. We in-turn found out that my rear hub bearing was going out and has since been replace. Having issues with coilovers? I have contacted the company that I purchased them through already and am awaiting feedback from them.
Pic of the car in question. (Before coilovers)...
So I just installed brand new coilovers and I quickly noticed a this problem. On the passenger side, when the wheel is lifted, I can feel a little bit of movement from the coilover and it really seems like it is the top bushing that is moving. I can see the metal top plate moving a little also. Everything is we tighten andI did the same thing as the driver's side but only this one does this. When the car is on the ground I can feel there is a bit of play in the wheel if I bang on it with my hand. Also, I know the gap on the top plates is normal, specially when lowered but again the passenger side looks weird and is much higher then the other side. What I'm I missing here ? Both side top bushing and bearing are also brand new.
View 14 RepliesThe latch thing that you pull on to pop the hood has broken, any other way to open the hood up?
View 24 RepliesSo I just did my rear brake pads and rotors a few days ago. For the last few months, my e brake hadn't been working well (have to pull it way up, and still weak).
While doing the brakes, I noticed the park brake arm was more or less seized on the left rear. I worked it a bit, and then my park brake worked perfect - 4 or 5 clicks, right on.
Then I noticed it isn't disengaging (brake smoke). I figured the ratcheting mechanism in the piston must be kaput.
So today I got a new (reman) caliper & bracket, installed it, and... still sticking. Cables are fine, the arm is moving fine. I'm now certain that the problem must be hydraulic, but what?
I would think that a master cylinder or booster would cause all the brakes to drag, or at least one axle worth, but that isn't the case. After a short spin on the freeway with little brake use, 3 of the brakes show 40 - 45C or so, and the sticking one shows 150C. (with an infrared thermometer).
During the brake job I noticed the left side was harder to turn in than the right, so I guess that could have been hydraulic back pressure somehow. Didn't seem to notice any damage to the hoses, they look pretty mint. master cylinder still?
I did the rear bearings at the same time. The bearing on the left was bone dry, probably from overheating in the past - I'm sure this POS stuck at some other time too, overheated and lost its grease. right side was fine but I figured might as well do them both.
Ok so my 2002 gti is having some boost problems... Instead of hitting boost consistently the boost is fluctuating for example hitting 12 psi then 15 psi and it just hits and bounces back to 0. what could be problem I was thinking bad downpipe, bad waste gate, or bad n75 valve.
View 6 RepliesOk just like the title states, when the hood latch (inside of car) is pulled the hood does not spring up. it does unlock but it does not show that it was released. the hood when closed properly does not open without pulling the hood latch handle.
View 1 Repliesso whenever i AM DRIVING AND i go to hit the brakes the car mostly under the hood in the engine jerks abit then smooths into stopping
99 Jetta GLS 2.0
I know this isn't the usual ticking of the injectors and I believe it's to fast to be a lifter tapping. I believe it's the camshaft chain hitting against the valve cover. I took the valve cover off and the chain is still tensioned tightly so it makes me wonder what this could be..
View 1 Replies1998 ranger 5spd... I have 117k miles on this little ranger and I recently took it on a little trip and since that trip it has a ticking noise under the hood as if the lifters were sticking. I believe it has hydrolic lifters in it. I put some sea foam in it 200 miles ago and changed the oil about 50 miles ago. I used Valvoline full synthetic and it seems like it has lessened the tick and it drives a lot smoother, in my opinion. Is there any thing else I can do to relieve that ticking? It is more noticeable when the engine first starts and is louder if i push down harder on the gas. It is not preset if i do not put that much pressure on the gas.
View 6 RepliesIn the process of selling my mk4 gti 12V, anyways. this morning while taking pics I went to pop the hood and the lever (one by the pedals in car) felt really lose and it didn't pop the hood. I'm assuming the cable either broke or disconnected, oddly enough it was working fine last night. Is there a way to get the hood open without the lever? I know my way around a car, just have never encountered this problem...
View 2 RepliesI've a 02 Jetta GLS - 2.0 engine..
About a week back, I have started to hear a ticking noise from the hood. It is exactly same as someone else posted video on youtube below:
[URL] ....
What could be potential problem areas?
I drive a mk4 GTI 2004 Stage 1 software. Just got home from being at sea for the last three months and my hood latch won't open. It pops exposing the tab, but the safety lock won't release the hood. I tried putting my hand in and pulling the the mech that the latch attaches too but it wont budge. I then tried removing the grille to have a better view and more access, but it doesn't look like its possible to remove the grille without popping the hood. Anyway, how to tackle it, maybe if there's a way to remove the grille without breaking it or getting from under it.
View 2 RepliesI opened up my hood and now it doesn't close... it seems like the latch isn't locking into place and holding the hood down. I do a lot of car work myself, but after countless hours of trying to figure out why my latch isn't locking shut, I give up. I am planning to take it to a local dealer after I schedule an appointment, but that means that I can't drive for a few days... maybe weeks if they are booked... I don't want the hood to pop up on the highway or anything.
View 24 RepliesI have a 2002 VW MK4 1.8t. It has 172,000 miles on it. Since i bought the car i have had to add coolant from time to time due to leaks from various plastic coolant parts so I replaced the crappy plastic connectors and flanges as they failed but it has never overheated till a couple days ago. It rose up to about 210'F but I didn't let it get to 260'F (aka the red zone).
While the temperature was up, the coolant was spraying everywhere causing white smoke under the hood. I stopped and looked under the hood and came up with the conclusion it was the coolant flange that holds the temp sensor since it was leaking coolant from the flange like a faucet hince the reason it caused it to overheat due to lost of pressure and no coolant in the system. So I replaced the part and gaskets then checked for other obvious leaks.
No leaks are shown nowhere else in the vehicle. So I added coolant to the car and let the cooling system do its magic as i left the heater on high. Let car idle with cap off and heater on for about 45 minutes. No signs of overheating. So I take the car for a spin and that's when the car starts heating up. I look under the hood and feel hoses and notice all are pressurized but top hose that leads to coolant flange is hot and the bottom hose connected to thermostat is cold.
I checked the return hose that leads up to the coolant reservoir to see if it's cycling and it appears it was. At low rpms the return hose had a steady flow and at high rpms it was flowing much rapidly. Which made me think it wasn't the water pump also this car with that many miles wouldn't have lasted with the plastic impellar this long if it wasn't already swapped out by previous owners. My question is what would cause it to still overheat? I forgot to note the fans did not turn on when the temperature was rising unless i turned the a/c on. But i still did a drive test with a/c on and it still overheated. I also did multiple burp cycles. I have invested alot of money in custom work and suck to leave it parked on the drive way.
I had KW V2s installed on my R and the shop said they cause the ABS warning to come on so how to code out the alert using VCDS?
View 15 RepliesThe strut is lose, I can spin it hardly but I can't get the rotor to go down far enough, already disassembled the control arm but it didn't do much considering I couldn't move it forward or backward so the rotor still sits on a corner or the arm. I did the drivers side already.
View 3 RepliesInstalling STs on my mk6 tomorrow. Doing it in a steep driveway. want to be on the highest setting when I leave. regular v1 st coil over.
View 1 RepliesInstalled coilovers and took it for a drive today/tonight..I turned the headlights on and they adjusted side to side like normal..when they went to adjust up they moved like an inch..making it almost impossible to drive at night..I reset the battery and still the same scenario..is this a setting I have to change or can change thru vag com? Everything worked fine prior to install, and no I did not break anything.
View 7 Replies