P1128. Have had the code over and over!! No vacuum leaks and I've been through 2 MAFs. I've cleaned the throttle body, changed intake manifold gasket, changed plugs and wires, and put a new air filter in.
The code comes back every few months or so and the car becomes undriveable. Last changed my MAF back in December and the code is back already. What am I missing?
Car is a 2000 Passat Wagon 1.8T ATW FWD
I get the P1128 code and Emissions Workshop warning most of the year, then it cycles off in the summer. It went off yesterday, back on today, and I imagine it will go off again for weeks/months as the weather heats up.
Things I've tried so far:
Replaced MAF sensor
Replaced MAF wiring harness
Replaced front 02 sensor
Replaced air filter
Replaced cracked vacuum tubes, at least those accessible from the top. Some of the hidden lengths theoretically could be at issue but a mechanic said they were ok.
What I've not replaced is the secondary air pump. (Mechanic told me it's dry and checks okay.)
I have a 2000 accent 1.5L I was having issues with the maf. I was running a cold air intake but started having issues. I removed the intake and replaced with stock config. I cleaned the maf and re-installed. The car will run fine, build rpm and return to idle with no problems. The second I put it in gear and try to move the engine will misfire and rattle itself until it quits. I have been driving around for approx a week with the maf disconnected seeing as it seems to run alright, just lacks a bit of power it seems.
View 3 RepliesI found on internet loads of comment about this error code, but in my case the only bad thing is with fuel consumption - about 9-10 litres (!) for 100 km on motorway. Normaly it should be about 6-8 litres.
The error means: "P1128 is "Long Term Fuel Trim Too Lean". Which means the air/fuel mixture is leaner than the HO2S can compensate for."
Idle is working correctly (i think thats to do with MAF), engine start without any problems and overall car running smooth.
What can cause a bad fuel consumption? Is anything to do with a lambda (O2) sensor or it could be something else?
This is the infamous error code many Accent owners might have experienced it. The code refers to "Too lean intake system". People try to replace all kinds of parts like ECM, MAF, O2 Sensor, TPS, Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, etc. according to my research. I just bought a 2001 Accent and the P2188 light came on. I wrote an email to Hyundai Corp. Asking what would be the most likely part that will cause the (P2188) check engine light to come on.
View 3 RepliesRecently I've noticed that every time when shifting from park to drive and occasionally from reverse to drive in my 05 Golf GLS, I would have to remain off the gas for 3-4 seconds otherwise the car would jerk forward. If I press on the gas ever so slightly, the rpm would go up to around 1000 then jerk. Why this is happening?
View 2 RepliesSo I installed coilovers a short while ago and now I need an alignment bad (obviously), but when I took it to get aligned, I was told my car is too low to drive up onto the lift , so I was wondering if I would be able to adjust my coils to a better height and then after the alignment just drop them back down a bit, it won't be too major of a drop back down but I just want to make sure I wouldn't be wasting my money. There is a place up the road that will do the alignment at my current height but for a pretty steep price considering how low my car is.
View 10 RepliesI bought a MK4 GLS 2.0 5 spd with 200,000km on it back in february, It currently has 208,000km on it.
Whenever I drive in reverse, I get this loud shuddering/rattling noise with a slight vibration. I've noticed that it is louder from a stop and when the clutch it partially depressed accelerating,but pretty much goes away when the clutch is let out or when coasting.
It is sounds like it is coming from behind the front seats to the rear of the car. It almost sounds like the rear shock mounts are rattling. I also sometimes still here a slight knock, similar to the sound of worn sway bar bushings, but replaced those a few weeks ago.
I also get the same knock whenever I screw up a shift and the engine moves. I also considered and engine or transmission mount but i don't really get any vibration through the steering wheel other than a small amount which could be attributed to the poly dog bone bushings.
About two months ago but I replaced the RR shock mount with a new one. The old one looked fine. I replaced the RL shock mount with the one that I removed from the RR side.
Changing the shock mounts made no difference but I noticed that I could easily compress the RL rear shock with my hand. Could worn rear shocks be causing this noise/vibration? I've searched but I can't find an explanation besides the shock mounts.
I have replaced a few suspension components in the last few months:
-rear beam bushings in august
-front sway bar bushings a few weeks ago
-RR rear shock mount (new)
-RL rear shock mount (used from other side, but looked fine and replacing it made no difference)
-energy suspension poly dog bone bushings about six months ago
I don't think the car was really maintained that well due to it having original sway bar bushings and having tires that were worn very unevenly due to the rear beam bushings when I got it.
So my 2002 Jetta 1.8t is overheating. The water pump was bad. Replaced. The thermostat. Replaced. Radiator. Replaced. Radiator cap. Replaced. We're running out of things to replace! I'm ready to go to a junk yard and get a new block! We've tried about 100 magical "ways to burp it" with no luck. We even tried running it without a thermostat. Without the heater core. EVERYTHING.
The car runs at operating temperature at 4 RPM. But when we take it for a drive, it overheats. There's no heat with the thermostat in unless you rev it at the high RPMs. As for the hoses, top is hot, bottom gets hot. As for the car, it runs beautifully. It gives no codes. No smoke either. Nothing in the oil, nothing in the coolant so I don't think it's the head. It just overheats. This has been FAR too long.
Is it normal for my 2003 Jetta 1.8T to have trouble reaching operating temps from a cold start when letting it idle in the driveway with outside temps of 30F?
I recently had my thermostat replaced because my coolant temps never reached operating temps even when driving on the freeway.
Now with the replaced thermostat it reaches close to 190 after around 10 minutes of driving but if I am starting a cold engine and stay idle in the drive way it will not heat up to 190 even after 10 minutes.
When I tried a cold start with just letting it idle in the driveway for 10 minutes my check engine light came on giving me the P0118 code which I had before I changed my thermostat and a P0411 code.
After getting the thermostat changed I drove 100 miles to a destination and 100 miles back home the next day. A few days later I drove 22 miles to pick up a friend then 22 miles back without the check engine light coming on.
It was only when I let the car stay in idle from a cold start for 10 minutes that the check engine light came on and gave me the two error codes of P0118 and P0411.
Now I suspect the P0411 is from a leaking secondary air injection hose but the P0118 code confuses me as I switched out the thermostat and the coolant temp sensor.
A week ago before I left for h20 my battery light came on, i drove for 10 mins and it went off. I also had a battery test and alternator test at that time and everything showed up ok. I drove 800 miles all good. Last night the battery light came on again, I was far from home so just tried making it back but the car dies on me. Before it died the traction and abs light turned on, the lights dimmed, when I gassed it the lights would get a tiny bit brighter. Also my gauges got stuck at the rpm i was driving at and 70 mph, even though i came to a stop already.
When i tried to gas the car it was backfiring, sometimes i couldn't even give it gas. Only way to start the car was to jump it, then i can drive a little before the car died again.
I drove with my battery box off the highway because highway patrol said i have to and got towed how from there last night. The ALTERNATOR AND BATTERY WERE CHANGED a year and a half ago apx 12000 miles, all oem equipment for the alternator. The serpentine belt and tensioner on top have also been changed and serviced.
I've been having 2000 Jetta GLS VR6. It has an automatic transmission and lately I've noticed that when I put it into Drive, it starts out in 3rd gear. In other words I've lost 1st and 2nd gear when put in Drive. When I manually put it in 1st gear with the shifter, I have 1st gear and all the way up to Drive. The issue just seems to be while in Drive (D)
I've tried the Automatic Transmission Reset :
[URL]...................
Perhaps I'm not doing it right as I can't seem to see any switch under the Gas pedal, just a round piece of plastic that protrudes an inch. I've even removed that and still see no switch.
Had the common problem of ARB rubbing the drive shaft after I lowered an extra 15mm - It didn't rub before I went this extra 15mm. I got adjustable drop links on and they also didn't work. I basically told the garage to sort it out and they put standard drop links back on (not genuine) and also new wishbones because I needed them. Got my car back and the rubbing was even worse. So I raised it back up the 15mm, to where it was before the rubbing started, yet it's still rubbing like crazy. I'm wondering if the new wishbones may be causing this because of new bushings or something and it all being tighter. And also what am I supposed to do? I shouldn't have to buy a whiteline ARB because it wasn't rubbing at this ride height before the wishbones and drop links were changed.
To summarize:
>Lowered car extra 15mm, rubbing started
>Drop links and wishbones changed, rubbing is worse
>Raised back to the point where rubbing started and still rubbing just as badly.
Just recently replaced timing chains and clutch on a 2000 VR6, now I have a bit of drive-case whine but in 3rd & 4th gear only? Replaced throw out bearing with new and sachs clutch, Are my transmission bolts too tight or something?
View 2 RepliesI just changed my oil in my mk4 jetta 1.8L and after draining the oil, changing filer, and adding new oil, the car will not move in drive or reverse. Once I give it gas it will move but that's at the higher rpms. I am almost positive I didn't remove the transmission oil but I am just not sure.
View 12 RepliesFound some cracks in the outside of my driveshaft. 2002 Jetta 1.8T 5-Speed Manual.
Part number: 1J0 407 271 GJ
I'm guessing it's just rust/age. Honestly, I don't even know if this need to be replaced. CV boots are in perfect condition, now cracks or leaks whatsoever.
I have a Jetta with 130,000 miles. At around 35-50mph during acceleration, I can feel a wobble that would seem to be coming from the driver side drive train. I don't hear any noise with this just the wobble/vibration.
Never wrecked, 5spd manual. If I am not accelerating or putting stress on the drive train, the wobble stops.
I am guessing it could be bad tranny mount, I've looked at it put some hand force on it and jiggled it around a bit and mount seems to have a little bit of play not sure if that's normal if i really try the mount it moves back and forth very little movement but some and if i can move it easily I am sure the engine can beat it up
ALSO my axle came out or broke recently so replaced it with one from advanced auto parts also another possible culprit.
I have a 02 golf and it runs great other then the reoccurring problem i have been experiencing. The problem doesn't happen every time i drive my car, but often. When i drive for a short period of time and i park and go to turn the car off, all the lights on the dash flash on and off, and most of my things restart. Some times i will stop at a stop light or sign and the car will just restart and turn off. I know this maybe something very small.
View 1 RepliesThis is the second time the car has died mid-drive. was getting off an exit on the interstate, popped it into neutral from 5th. suddenly had no power steering/brakes. engine just shut off. pulled over to start it, and engine just turned over. no starting-just the cheerful noise of a cranking engine. nice motorist pulled over and gave me a jump, which worked. The first time was the same story. going into neutral to coast down a hill, and it died. was about to get a jump and it started after sitting for about 10 mins. What is going on here?! fuel filter? pump? I'm at a loss.
View 12 RepliesSo I was pulling out of the parking lot at work in first gear going about 10mph when I heard a loud clang and lost power to the wheels, I just had the car towed home and its dark out so i haven't gotten a chance to really take a good look.
My question is, how did this happen? the car is lowered on coils. I also Installed a B&M short shiftier about 3 weeks ago, i doubt it but could that have anything to do with this?
I have a 2001 vr6 Jetta automatic transmission. When I shift my car from park into to reverse or drive the whole car jerks as if it's banging into gears. But while driving it drives normal. When I stop and accelerate I feel the same jerking you would say.
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