Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Horn Not Working After Swapping Steering Wheel
Dec 29, 2014
So, I decided I'd swap out my 4 spoke MFSW for the nicer looking 3 spoke. From what I read, it should've been a direct fit, which it was for the most part, besides the horn not working after putting it back together. I tried looking up solutions, but to my dismay, found loads of things that didn't solve my problem. I already made sure the fuse, and the relay was fine, which they were. The horn worked fine before changing the steering wheel... For whatever reason, I'm only getting around 1-2 volts at the pin connector for the horn pin, and from what I read online, I should be getting 12 volts.
So from what I know so far, for whatever reason, the 12v from the relay, is not reaching the steering wheel fully, which doesn't allow the horn to work. I even tried putting the old steering wheel back on to see if it made a difference, which it didn't. It didn't even work with the old one on it either. I am currently unable to drive the GTI until this gets fixed,
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I have an 02 Jetta with the 2.0 that I have been trying to resurrect. We've owned it from new and it's been a great commuting car but it was in desperate need for some TLC. The car has been very reliable for 250k-km and I want to make it last at least another 3 years. So, rather than sell the car for nothing - I've decided to invest some time in swapping parts in from a scrapped GLI w/24v VR6 (with ~130k km) that I picked up for $500. I figure that I'll never feel the pain of depreciation by just never selling the car!
I've already used the GLI to do some cosmetic upgrades (goodbye foggy head lights), replaced a rusted fender and a rock battered hood, a broken side view mirror - as well as do a full leather interior swap. The engine is destined for my Eurovan -- which has left me wondering what other parts I could use off the car before sending it to the wrecker.
So basically -- my 2.0 needs a wheel bearing and the stock suspension has been creaking and noisy for a long time. I see that the brakes and wheel bearing housings are different between 2.0 and VR6 -- but I'm thinking of swapping it all over at once and want to know if this is plausible. The brakes are definitely bigger (FN3 style) with nice factory painted calipers and just in better condition overall -- so I know I need the wheel bearing housing. So- is it possible to swap the entire strut out with the wheel bearing housing and all still attached? Seems this might be less work and faster than actually swapping out the just the wheel bearings.
Will the axles from the 2.0 still work?
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I have a standard 2012 MK VI Golf (US), with the standard plastic steering wheel (no buttons)
I recently bought a leather steering wheel (with airbag and MFSW harness) which came off from a 2010 MK VI Golf TDI
My goal is to have a leather steering wheel (having the Steering wheel buttons function correctly can come later) so i am not upgrading the control module at this time....so......
I did the swap... (so i pulled the stock SW and airbag out....installed the TDI SW and airbag with the MFSW harness that came with it) all lights are off (after driving it and turning the steering wheel all the way left/right) but the horn is not working....
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Last weekend my headlights, wipers, turn signals, AC, and horn stopped working. Through searching and another post I narrowed the issue down to my ignition switch. After taking apart my steering column and getting the switch out, I found this...
The house which is connected to the switch, with the one of the red wires obvious fried....
So I'm hoping this problem and I'm wondering who else has had this happen. When I took apart the ignition switch itself, nothing appeared to be damaged. No burns no broken pieces, etc. the metal post on the outside corresponding to the fried wire on the housing was corroded, but that was it.
I think I need to replace the housing since all that plastic melted and I chipped it away to get to the connector. I can't seem to get the connectors on the wire off of the metal connectors that are supposed to be in the housing.
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I picked up a 2004 Jetta 1.8T and it's had a lot of electrical issues, it had some water damage from a plugged cowl drain and a I've found a bunch of stuff just unplugged. I had a shop fix some missing grounds to get it running and they went through the dash and found all the air control plugs had become unhooked somehow, so they got the air conditioning working. Now i'm working on getting the locks and the horn to work. I've checked the fuses, they're not blown. I'm not sure about the relays under the dash, but I can hear a clicking from the comfort control module when I hit the key fod. The buttons on all the doors are not working. the horn will sound if the alarm is set off but doesn't work when the button is pushed on the steering wheel, nor when the key fob is struck. The windows all work, both from the key turn and the switches in the door. I'm totally lost on what to do here.
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I realized my horn is not working. I also realized that the left side turn indicator (blinker) light is not working and when I popped it out I saw the wires were chewed up, I am not sure what happened. Do you think I need to remove the wheel well liner to try to access that area? What to do?
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I have a bad wheel bearing but on the highway my steering wheel shakes. It is only on the highway not down residential streets. I'm pretty sure it is the driver's side wheel bearing. I already balanced my wheels and everything.
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I was told I can use a mk3 O2a transmission in my mk4 12v, reason is because my transmission decided to blow up on me I just figured this because a mk3 transmission will be cheaper and easier to find.....I also heard something about swapping the shifter tower.
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My mkiv gti leans a lot to the right whenever I let off the steering wheel. I brought it to a shop and they put it up on a lift and told me that I needed a tie rod flip kit because it's lowered. Long story short, they charged me $70 to look at it for 10 minutes. Do you really need a flip kit for a car lowered on coilovers? I have several friends with lowered cars and none off them have had to do this. I'm thinking it's something else such as a bad shock but I'm no expert.
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My 20th in the past 15k has received all of the following parts: driver axle, both ball joints, driver full tie rod the pass isn't OEM and feels fine, poly control arm bushings, poly sway bar bushings, fk coilovers with new mounts and bearings, and both wheel bearings, and I believe that's it.
The problem is: when you're going down the road, whether you're turning or going straight, if you give it any gas the steering wheel will shift a good 20 to the right and it'll shift the car over to the right but continue going straight. Then when any type of braking occurs, the wheel goes back to center shifting the car back to the left and continue going straight again until I apply the gas again. The steering will also shift if I hit a bump. But it's only to the right. I'm stumped as to what the problem is and its quite dangerous. Power steering is fine, no leaks.
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I'm almost at a lose here. I have a 01 1.8t golf and at 60 the steering wheel shakes and at 80+ i feel it in the whole car. I've already replaced both axles, wheel bearings, tie rods, ball joints, new coilovers, new wheels and tires, and passenger side control arm. There's not much more I can replace besides hubs and driver control arm or do u think it could be defective parts like one of the new axles.
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I'm also getting an airbag fault which I'm guessing may be coming from the steering wheel sensor since nothing else is working on the steering wheel. Maybe a wiring harness or something?
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I just had an alignment done and the steering wheel is turned counter clockwise a little. I know very little about alignment. I know the terminology and what it means and i heard the the rear camber and toe isn't adjustable on mk4s. I did lower my car,only about one inch though.
Here is the sheet that came with the alignment:
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I have a issue with my golf 1.9tdi when i start the engine it shakes really bad and feels very rough when sitting in the cab steering wheel vibrates really Bad and engine looks like its going to fly out of the car but when i apply throttle the vibrations go only happens when idling.
What it could be i have done a Diesel Purge, changed the fuel filter, cleaner the EGR Valve, changed the coolant temp sensor, checked the injector loom for continuity and resistance everything was fine, checked resistance on injectors readings was all the same, flywheel seems fine when running (no movement) and no change when i dip the clutch, engine mounts i changed the right hand side one all the rest are fine and not penetrated.
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its possible to repair? or only a new one it's the solution? cause my gti 1.8t it's making a sound like tssshhh when i turn the steering wheel. I change the power steering rack.
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Whenever I brake hard the steering wheel jerks to the right and the car follows. And it'll stay to the right until I got about third gear or if I shake the wheel back and forth. Not sure what it is. What could cause this? 01 jetta wolfsburg.....
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Went to start my car today but couldn't move my steering wheel at all??
Ignition still works and i can turn my keys but not the wheel?
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When you turn the steering wheel, left or right, the horn honks at random stages of turn. Nothing long, just a short honk. If you stop the wheel where the honk happened, it just honks.
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I own an '07 Wolfsburg with steering wheel controls. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. When I'm in the car are they're not working, they eventually activate on and stay on.
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Ok a week ago i noticed a popping noise when i would turn my steering wheel while the car was parked. It sounded and felt like it was coming from the drivers side.
Now a week later i have a weird constant whirring/growling noise coming from the drivers side wheel area. Which only stops when I stop completely or take a right hand turn.
So I think its a wheel bearing due to the fact it stops when I turn right, but thats why im here im not totally sure.
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I have a 2000 MK4 Jetta GLS that's had a clicking noise in one spot whenever I rock the steering wheel left-to-right or right-to-left. It's noticeable while stopped or at low-speed and seems to be in one particular "sweet spot." I've had the tie rod ends changed, with no improvement. It seems obvious that it's some kind of linkage or joint that's worn out, but I'm just not familiar enough with the steering system on these cars to know where to look. I thought maybe a bad CV joint, but they usually click when the wheels are turning, not when the steering wheel is being rotated, and they don't usually go on clicking for a year without wearing out.
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