Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Keeps Dying - Error Code 16839?
Dec 17, 2014
I have a mk4 jetta 2.0l with about 130,000 miles. The issue with my car is that is has a rough idle and dies out completely when I put the car in neutral. I currently have codes 16839- EVAP system leak detected, 16487- Mass air flow sensor, 17978 - Engine start blocked by immobilizer, and 16795 - secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected. The secondary air pump was taken off the car before i bought it, so i do not think that code is responsible. Also all of my spark plugs and wires are new. I think the issue is either with my maf sensor or with a vacuum line. I have tried cleaner my maf and also unplugging it, and the car still has problem. Unfortunately i do not know where all of my vacuum line are. I have only checked the two the go into the sensor on towards the firewall. The one has vacuum, but the one coming for the egr valve did have any vaccum even when i tried with my other line on it. Im not sure if this is the issue, and if it would cause my car to die.
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This is on a 2001 golf, 5 speed, ALH.
Just went for a drive the other day and the ABS light started to flicker on, and then it was accompanied by 3 loud beeps, which I understand is the ABS warning.
Then the gauges all died like I turned the car off, but the engine was still running. No limp mode, no stumbling, nothing.
The needles then bounce back to where they should be, and various lights on the dash flicker, oil pressure, battery, etc. Not any pattern to them, they all just kind of blink on and off randomly. Then it will stop and run fine for 20-30 minutes (longest I have driven it like this)
Sometimes when I put the key in the on position before starting it, the gauges will do the same thing, without the beeping, and it is like I am cylcing the key on and off several times, needles on the fuel and temp gauge bounce between zero and their actual reading (other gauges don't move because I'm at zero rpm and zero mph)
I have replaced fuses 11 and 15, checked battery voltage with the car off, idling and at 2000 rpm, 12.3 volts with the car off, 14.3 with it idling and at 2000 rpm
The cheap code reader at the parts store gave me a P1650 code, which is intermittent communication error on canbus (paraphrasing) which makes sense for the symptoms, but I know on these cars sometimes a totally different system in the car can interfere elsewhere.
I am going to check/clean grounds, what else should I be looking for?
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So finally got past the smog cert issue and a bad map sensor in the intercooler. However, during the smog test, I was informed I am getting low air pressure in the intake! What causes this? A bad MAF? a leak? I have replaced the EGR, and all rubber that connects hard pipes. The only piece not changed out during the rebuild is the plastic flex line from the airfilter box to the turbo intake.
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When checking my check engine light , I got P0021 a cam timing error, but my mk4 Gti runs perfectly ??
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Damn car is stuck in 3rd gear! Hooked up scanner and the screen just says error! I have to keep the scanner in the vehicle, hooked up, just to drive the car. That's just so it'll shift as its supposed to! Now it's not letting me pull the code out, in order for me to erase it! It just keeps saying "error".
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I keep getting the error code P0420. Cat below threshold.
I have replace both the front and rear O2 sensors and we reset the check engine light. While driving through the cycles to reset the sensors for them to be ready for DEQ, the check engine light came on again.
I am about ready to buy the Cat Converter, but it is really expensive and if there are any other things that I can try before replacing the Cat I would like to try that first. Any other issues associated with that code, or should I just replace the Cat Converter as my next step.
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I was cruising down the highway and my check engine light came on. I was a few minutes from a auto store and they said my code was p1296. I found out it is either the thermostat or the coolant temperature sensor. I wanna know where it is located in the engine bay. I have a 02 VW Jetta 1.8T.
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I have a 2005 Jetta 1.8t and the thing will not start! The battery is fine, and has been recharged 100%. The fuel pump is pumping. It cranks all day, but just won't start. The only error code i'm getting is a P0411 which I understand is a leak in the vacuum system somewhere.
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2002 Jetta 1.8L Turbo running fine. Then one day driving on the freeway at about 70, I try to pass someone and notice when I push the gas the engine lulls. I back off the gas and accelerate slower and I can get up to speed. Drive it all the way home and its fine a t low speeds. Turn the car off and try to restart it and it wont start. Turns over but wont start. No CEL or anything else, I check the codes and I have a P0171 (Lean fuel Bank 1). Where do I start? Also car is parked in an underground garage. No chance of a tow out of this place, it may soon be a Jetta tomb.
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I just bought a 03 2.0 and ive been trying to fix her back up, she is almost there, just waiting on my first gear getter from diesel geeks and trying to figure out why these codes (p0420 and p0141) keep coming back on. Originally it was just a p0420 code so i took out the upstream sensor and cleaned it, then i took out the backstream and after examining it figured it should be replaced.
I went and bought a new one and replaced it, within the next 2 days the check engine light came back on throwing the original p0420 code along with p0141 this time. So i took out the new down stream 02 sensor and took it back to autozone and they swapped it out with a new one for me free of charge. So i put the newest 02 sensor in and then within 2 days, both codes p0420 & p0141 came back on. Two 02 sensor heating wires being bad i feel is a pretty slim chance. What is possibly the cause for these two codes repeatedly being thrown?
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My car (jetta 2002 1.8t) have the error code p0501 even if the speedo is working. I replaced the speed sensor just to make sure.
If I erase the code, and drive no matter how far/fast I go, the check light doesn't turns on. But as soon as I turn of the car and drive again it does comes on.
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Whenever P0411 triggers for me, it is very late into driving (i.e. like 30 minutes into the freeway type of situation) where the engine has already hit optimal temperature. I've gone 1000 miles after reset before it triggers. Sometimes 200 or so miles, but it never triggers quickly after a reset. I'm unsure if it matters, but the VR6 does have a cold air intake (and I do have the breather hose connected & maf correctly connected). I'm pointing it out because p0411 became an issue about 500 miles after I had installed the cold air intake.
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My 2003 Mk 4 Golf have had a lot of error codes and I have cleared most (O2 sensors, thermostat, and Mass Air Sensor) I now have an error P0113 which is the Intake Air temp Sensor.
So I need to clean the sensor first then maybe replace it, but I can't find the sensor on the intake manifold.
I have looked all through the U-Tube info, but nothing matches my 2003 Golf 2.0L ...
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I have a 2004 MK4 Golf 2.0l that's been throwing a CPS error code. My brother was going to come down to visit for a weekend. He had done some diagnostic work and had me order a timing kit and a camshaft position sensor from ECS.
So, with my assembled parts, I brought the car in to a reputable shop. Anyway, the guy does the work and now the car is ready and saying that the CPS took nearly 4 hours more of work.
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My 2003 Mk 4 Golf have had a lot of error codes and I have cleared most (O2 sensors, thermostat, and Mass Air Sensor) I now have an error P0113 which is the Intake Air temp Sensor.
So I need to clean the sensor first then maybe replace it, but I can't find the sensor on the intake manifold.
I have looked all through the U-Tube info, but nothing matches my 2003 Golf 2.0L ....
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On my 2002 (AVH) 2.0L 4cyl Jetta I have a persistent P0420 error code: "Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold"
I changed the oil, cleaned the Mass Airflow Sensor, replaced the coolant, thermostat, and coolant temperature sensor. But it's still showing up.
OBDII says it could still be:
A damaged or failed oxygen sensor (HO2S)
Downstream oxygen sensor (HO2S) wiring damaged or connected improperly
Damaged or leaking exhaust manifold / catalytic converter / muffler / exhaust pipe
Retarded spark timing
The oxygen sensors in front and behind the converter are reporting too similar of readings
Leaking fuel injector or high fuel pressure
Cylinder misfire Oil contamination
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I have 1 month left on my AAMCO rebuilt transmission. I took it in a few weeks ago when it went into "limp mode" (Stuck in 1st gear). Eventually, they got an error code of P0730, which I believe is electrical-related. All was pretty good but then today, driving @ high speed on the interstate, I could not get into 4th gear...
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My car battery keeps draining when my car is off, lights off, everything is off....... the only thing that ive figured out is that if i pull the fuse to my radio, it wont die, but sometimes if i dont pull the fuse it still wont die......
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I'm getting used to just expecting a problem with this car every 3 months or so. Anyway, I have a 2004 1.8T GLI which lately has been idling and then stutters and dies. The first time it happened it turned right back over and started driving. So I drove it home and cleaned up the battery terminals and it didn't seem to have a problem since. Now about a month later I was just parked and turned it over.
It was on for about 1 second and then it stuttered and died. I can hear the starter engaging and turning the engine, but it won't turn over. I also checked the battery levels and its showing 12v so I don't think it's electrical? From scanning forums here it seems like the two prime suspects are spark plugs or the fuel pump?
Also checked the fuses and none are burnt. I could see it being the fuel pump because that would explain it randomly stuttering and dying. Also the car is at 149k miles and that is the original pump. Wondering if maybe it being at 1/4 tank isn't working either? Going out to buy a vagcom and see what codes it throws!
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Battery kept dying. Had the battery tested. Bench tested as OK but kept dying. Replaced the battery with a new OEM. In a week, that battery was dying too. Alternator was putting out 13V but would dip down to 11V. Also did a parasitic current draw test. Car is only drawing 20mA at rest. Replaced the alternator with brand new. New alternator putting out 14.4V. Battery keeps dying. Still no parasitic current draw.
I did two things right around the same time I started having the issue. I put in a new head unit. I already had an aftermarket head unit and I simply upgraded. I know this isn't the issue because I ripped the thing out completely, including wiring harness, and I still kept having a problem. The other change I made was going from a MFSW to a 3-spoke. I removed the MFSW relay and switched the pins in the column so that the horn and airbag work properly. I tried the cruise control and it doesn't work. When I try to turn on the cruise control, it blows the horn fuse. Replaced the horn fuse and I just don't use the cruise.
What I'm wondering is if I messed up the CCM when I did the steering wheel swap. I've read that bad CCMs can kill batteries. I'm not having the typical faulty CCM issues. The only issues, besides the battery dying, are that the unlock on the keyfob will stop working at random, and the "door ajar" light on my dash flickers at random.
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So of course it has to happen 3 weeks after my warranty expires. My CEL comes on and I have it read and the result is P0440. I find out that my wife has a habit of topping off the gas tank and so I am thinking that she has probably ruined the charcoal canister. It is something easy to replace?
I have an 06 limited edition... Yes, she will not be topping off any gas tank anymore.
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