Golf IV / Jetta IV :: One Of High-pressure Lines On The Back Of Rack Has Rotted Out?
Jul 7, 2014
One of the high-pressure lines on the back of the rack, close to the exhaust, has rotted out. It was smoking as it leaked right under the exhaust pipe and burned off. The rest of the freshly filled fluid was all over the ground. I crawled under and got a good look at the high pressure line, but where to source these, and if they are even replaceable? I have not tried to remove it yet, but perhaps a shop could bend a new one as a cheap alternative to a new rack. I was also thinking of checking out the pick n pull for a line.
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Is it a do it yourself job to replace brake lines. Never done it before or even seen it done. Special tools required? Will the auto parts store know exactly what I need? Are these questions answering my question?(don't do it) ...
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I bought my mk4 GTi about a year ago. The paint around the rear wheel well all the way down to the rocker started to bubble quickly and I can see now it's all rotted. Looks like someone covered it up for a quick sale as it all happened very quickly. Anyway, I'm now looking to repair this and want to make sure I take the best route. I linked some pictures. I've been told to cut it out, weld a patch panel, and epoxy primer then build with bondo and go through painting procedure.
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I own a 03' 2.7 Santa Fe (2wd) and when I got home last night i noticed that she was smoking like crazy (not overheating). Opened the hood looked under the car and noticed some fluid spraying on the the exhaust and leaking down from there which was causing the smoke. I put her on jack stands and noticed what looks like to be some hard (i think pressurized) lines that are attached to a connector of some sort in front of the steering rack. What lines are these? Power steering? oil cooler? Transmission related? The fluid that is leaking looks like transmission fluid cause its reddish brown. Ive worked on a few other cars before but not too familiar with Hyundai. When i get home later I will take a pic of this area and post a picture. And it looks like its spraying from the connecting lines (maybe a crush washer gone bad? ) not sure. I can't seem to find any image of this area online either.
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It feels like I have zero back pressure until I hit about 3500rpm. The car kind of struggles and chugs a bit until it hits the power band and then it takes off like everything is normal...
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So I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t. Recently I noticed an issue with the brakes. It is a rare occurrence that this issue happens. Maybe 1 out 6 times I slowly stop the brake pedal seems to put pressure back against me applying brake pressure and makes somewhat of a grinding noise and the brakes don't seem to grab as well. But a split second later the brakes return to normal and grab as expected. Could it possibly be air in the brake lines or something totally different?
- Front brakes are in excellent condition.
- Just replaced the driver side front abs sensor and put new rear brakes and rotors on.
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2000 jetta 2.0
I had my a/c checked out as it would not come on nor would my fans come on when the interior a/c switch was pushed and yes the switch lit up.
The mechanic said i needed a new compressor and high pressure switch.
Do I have to have the system evacuated first or can i change out the switch with the system loaded??
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I have question about power steering pressure switch in golf 4 1.8t
Idle go high to 2000 rpm .. when i plug-off the Power Steering Pressure Switch its go fine .. i want know is this " Power Steering Pressure Switch " effect stability in high ?
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I just finished my first MK4 steering rack replacement (don't work on too many VWs), and when I placed the steering shaft from the column onto the shaft from the rack and bolted it down, there was still some clearance (see photo). I was able to get the bolt tightened down ok, but the clearance is bothering me.
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I need to replace the power steering rack on my car. Mech wants 300+parts. I supply the parts. Is there a different rack for the vr6 VS the I4 jetta?
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I heard that when peeling off the tinted window film can cause damage to the heated lines at the back window shield.... If I bring it to a tint shop and let the people there do it, are the chances high? And if the heated lines did get damaged, how much would it cost to replace them?
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as the title indicates i had the pleasure () of changing out my leaking power steering rack - all seamed to go well but right after that i am now getting a constent traction control warning light on my dash - what should i check ?
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Basically I want to replace all my boost/vac lines with silicone. I have a 01 jetta 1.8t with aww engine code. I need to know the diameter and length of each.
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Yesterday , my feed fuel line was dry rotting and leaking gas so I bought 516 fuel injection hose and replaced them. Pulled fuse 28 , started the car and let it die to release pressure , fixed the hoses and put the fuse back in and now it just cranks forever. I have spark , and I'm getting fuel just not sure if it's adequate pressure. When I open the door the pump did sound a little funny when it primed. I'm gonna pull it out and check it later but right now I'm completely stumped. I did this last night around 8pm and it's 4:30 am the next morning and still not start.
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Took truck to a mechanic he advised me that the no heat was because of high back pressure in engine...never heard of this before, is this a correct diagnosis? No heat, air blows through all vents, defrosters.
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2003 jetta gls 1.8t 5spd - gts stage 1 tune(gonzo stage 2)
tt 2-1/2" downpipe with high flow cat
turbo smart splitter valve(set to divert only)
turbo inlet pipe
homemade intake with k&n filter
stock n75 valve (f)
So in first through 3rd gear my car gets 20psi of boost then at 3,500 ish rpm smoothly starts to lower down to 15psi. but in forth and 5th gear the boost drops faster, enough so the diverter valve actually opens. then the boost will bounce up and down, around 15psi. the car still accelerates but with obvious power loss.
Is my diverter valve not "firm" enough? it is adjustable, so I've tightened it as much as it can. it doesn't seem to change anything. it came with spring spacers to make it tighter, but I haven't tried that yet.
Is it something with the tune? not enough fuel, need bigger injectors? The problem is only at about 100mph, so its not a big deal. I would like to get it straightened out if possible.
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Working on my car after getting it back from bad mechanic. The jerk didn't correctly reconnect the AC lines and now it's not holding pressure. The leak is right on the firewall, with one big and one small line. When I disconnect the lines I tried to reconnect using an o-ring gasket but it's still not holding pressure. Probably need OE o-rings, but I did this last summer and got it to hold pressure fine.
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There is a noticeable whining sound coming from the back of my car. I searched and the closest thread I could find talks about whining at speed, but this is happening even at idle. From outside the car it is much louder. It goes away sometimes, but comes back pretty quickly. I restarted the car at a red light and the noise stopped, but by the next light it was back. Seems to be happening at speed, too, although that's harder to hear over the sound of the car.
Pulled codes, and the code P310b keeps coming back, even after cleared. The car has had a dead battery for probably the last 6 weeks, and was restarted two days ago, maybe 100-150 miles since restart, plenty of warm up and cool down cycles, but the code keeps coming back. I never noticed the sound before I let the car sit, and I didn't notice it yesterday while I was driving it around (although maybe I just had the music too loud???)
APR Stage 3, APR LPFP.
1- Does is sound like this could be the low pressure fuel pump?
2- Do I need to be concerned?
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So I think my A/c high pressure switch went out/failed. I came out from a shop and I had just bought 2 new front tires and got them mounted 1 hour prior and I though that I had ran over something. I felt around the passenger tire but didn't find a anything-but there was a hissing noise behind the passenger tire and the air smelled a little funny. So when I got in the car and turned the a/c on nothing happened/No cold air and I had just used the A/c on the way over to the shop. So when I got home I pulled these codes:
00792.Air Conditioner pressure switch F129
01274.Motor for Air Recirculation flap V71
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I purchased a 2011 GTI on Tuesday. Loving it so far. I've got a question about a noise I hear though. It is at 1500 rpm. It sounds like high pressure air, kind of a pshhhhh sound (like letting air out of a tire). It isn't loud and there's no impact on performance. I assume this is just the turbo spooling up or something related to that? This is my first car with a turbo so just want to be sure .
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I have a 1.8t and it has the dreadful low pressure issue, not quite sure if I have sludge or not but i've run some sea foam through it earlier to clean (I'm aware that sea foam is a solvent) and am going to drop the pan, clean it out and replace the pump and pickup and take care of all of it in one go. I plan on using the felpro 2.slow gasket instead of gasket sealant but my question is, how do I remove the tension off of the oil pump chain to remove the pump? i'm pretty new to Volkswagens so don't be to rough.
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