Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Timing Chains Slapping Around - Bad Tensioner?
Jun 8, 2014
Alright so MK4 vr6 AFP engine. I did the timing chans when I bought the car around 175-180K. Car now has 224K miles on it. A few days ago I started hearing the chains slapping around. Because I didn't want to call it a broken guide just yet for tor the hell of it I took the upper chain tensioner bold out dunked it in oil and pumped it up till it was hard again. Put it back in and drove the car about 130 miles straight. I didn't hear them making any kind if noise. The next day I drove it about 30 miles still no noise. Later in the evening I whent to get gas when I pull in the drive way I noticed they were rattling around again. So the next day I drive it back home (130 miles) and noticed they were even louder especially around 1500-200 rpm.
So I took the tensioner back out and dunked and pumped it up again. It didn't do anything this time chains are still loud. But I noticed when I was pumping the tensioner in thr oil both times the air bubbles weren't coming out of the bleeder hole they were coming from the end around the piston. When I did the chains the first time I got everything from Germanautoparts.com. and I notice that the tensioner they sell isn't genuine vw part the only place I found the actual vw pary is ecs tuning and the stealership. Is it possible I just have a defective tensioner? I really want to get to the bottom of this before I go and pull the motor and find that nothing is broken. Should I just buy the oem tensioner and see if it fixes it first?
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First off I have a issue the Timing Belt Tensioner Stud / bolt that holds my tensioner on is stripped and came out with my tensioner. I don't want to risk putting it back into the engine because some one prior to owning my car stripped the nut that holds it in. Where I could get a new one of these bolts. I have a 2000 VW Golf GL with a 2.0l. I've searched high and low on parts sites and cannot figure out where to buy this item.
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My car just hit 70k miles, I have had no problems with my car since 28,700 miles. I kinda drive it like an old man I know I know I should be ashamed of myself lol. When do you find most 04 .:R's Waterpump/timing chains needing replacement? Just curious if I need to factor this into my budget.
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What to do if your timing chain tensioner fails and wipes out the valvetrain. Go to www.vwusa.com and click the contact us page. Find the link for "online chat" and open a dialog with a vw rep. Have the vin, milage, purchase date info handy and tell them what happend.
Maybe I just got lucky, but I thought my (second owner) 2012 GTI with 46000 mi was toast, the rep (Bill H) told me not to worry and set me up with a case number and the location of a dearship that will confirm the damage and replace my engine.
My experience is in direct opposition of what I have read on forums when people take their GTI's to the dealership first, then after hagling with the stealership managers for weeks on end finally end up emailing vw corporate (which takes weeks to respond) and finally having the issue resolved.
Of couse, this is only if your car has not had the warranty run out. I thought that being the second owner voided the powertrain warranty...again that was false.
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I hear it's a problem on the Mk VI. Is there anything you can do or upgrade to eliminate the problem ... especially considering that it goes out of warranty after 5 years.
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I planned on replacing the timing chains, tensioners, guides and oil pump when I replace the timing cover tomorrow, however, I overlooked was the specialty tools to lock the cams and crankshaft in position. I came up with a couple methods but wanted to know of some other way to replace the timing chains without the cam/crank tools?
Turning the crankshaft keyway to 12 o'clock instead of TDC : Positioning the crankshaft keyway at 12 o' clock will keep all pistons close to mid cylinder and essentially eliminate the risk of interference.
or
Neutralize the cams : Loosening the bolts on the cam bearing caps while still keeping them in place allows the cams to move without engaging the valves.
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I recently had a good amount of work done to my Mk4 R32. Last night on my drive home from the stealership I ended up with a passenger headlight out and a very loud clicking/ticking noise which seems to be coming from the Serpentine belt area. After closer inspection it looks like the tensioner lines are't lined up which means my belt and tensioner need to be replaced? I'm not sure, but I have a video and this picture.
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Today I went to start my jetta, and there was a soft slapping/ticking coming from the engine. Drove a couple miles, stopped, and when I tried to start the car again it wouldn't go. Engine light was on but it was on before. Scanned and got codes for glow plugs #2-3.
When I turn the key the starter turns but the engine will not fire or tun over. There's diesel in the fuel lines and the timing belt is still turning, thats all i could really check with out taking anything apart. What this might be?
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I've got a 2003 Jetta with the 20v 1.8t, today I was driving along and when I slowed down coming into town, my car started making this sound that I can only describe as sounding like a tractor. It sounds like something is rattling under the valve cover.
Here's a video with the sound : [URL] ....
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How to reset timing tensioner on a Passat?
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On Feb 2015 I had this oil leak developing around the timing chain cover/ oil pressure plug and so i replaced the oil pressure sensor and clean the area and though problem solved...
Fast forward today and the weeping has redeveloped and has gotten larger than last time , its only a weeping issue no visible oil droplet leaks, anyways I took a mirror and when probing around and found the leak origin from the rusty looking timing chain tensioner...that what i think it is.
My question is should I just remove and replace the Rubber O-ring on it or should I just replace the entire timing tensioner unit with a new one, my original timing chain tensioner is sitting at 85k miles. The O-ring is free (i have a kit) and i can do it right now or a New Timing chain tensioner w/ new O-ring is around $20 bucks but i cannot verify the part number ...
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I have an '09 Tiguan that recently began to start hard. Two days ago, it refused to start and hasn't started since. It cranks and cranks but to no avail. I disconnected the fuel line at the first hard piece on the front side of the head. The primer pump when activated pours gas out of the line for about 5-8 seconds.
I also pulled the coil packs off and verified there is spark on them. I scanned the car with vcds and came up with nothing other than a couple voltage codes (battery is low at this point from cranking and is bulged and showing yellow in the spot window).
Tonight I borrowed the perfectly fine battery from my B6 and attempted to start it. No codes whatsoever and yet it still refused to run.
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I am deep into replacing the timing belt on my 08 Elantra 2.0, and am nervous about taking the tensioner off since it is not obvious how to set it. I could use a fool proof explanation on how to set the tensioner.
The Haynes manual talks about 1/4 deflection but that seems too imprecise.
I can not see the marks in the video : DIY 2008 Elantra timing belt video 2 of 2 - YouTube
And this post 2008 Elantra Timing Belt does not quite seem to explain. I am contemplating putting it all back together, just changing the accessory belts and handing it to a shop. I could use a fool proof explanation on how to set the tensioner.
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Changing timing chain tensioner? Mine is making the rattling noise on startup. Tried searching one internet for any DIY's out there. Haven't really found any good ones.
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Got an oil change yesterday and the dealer noticed a small oil leak from the timing cover on my '10 Corolla w/ 71k. Of course they could reseal it for $450. After further investigation, it looks like it is actually coming from the timing chain tensioner. I have seen on the 9th gen this is a common issue, but I haven't really seen anything on the 10th gen. Sometimes, I have noticed a short squeal or squall at cold startup, but it hasn't been enough to really diagnose. It could be some oil on the belt or something else related to this issue. Hopefully the pictures show up.... [URL] ......
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I have been reading about all these horrific cases about the tensioner just giving and causing catastrophic failure. Without all the maintenance records VWoA is reluctant to support 100% even if you're still within the powertrain warranty. I understand these 20+ cases are a small population out of the entire group, but I don't want to risk being another statistical point for this topic. Just ordered the HS Tuning kit and the two snap on tools.
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2010 corolla bought new 3/29/010 has 43k dealer said timing chain tensioner was slipping and might leak oil wanted $175 to replace shouldn't this be covered under the power train warranty?
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I recently bought a 97 960. i have had a s90 before in totaled it i loved the car so much i found another. i was driving and broke the timing belt tensioner which in turn lead to the breaking of 5 exhaust valves that i know of. I've taken off the head and noticed that one of the bottom of the valves had melted onto the number 5 piston head.
I called around and search but every motor is at least 1000 and i have been told anywhere from 3500-4500 to rebuild. My question would b is there an easy way to fix or should i junk it. i bought it for a 1000 it has only 140000 on it an its in almost great condition. I attached some pictures of the head and piston so u can see the damage.
Attached File(s)
2012_04_07_19.02.39.jpg ( 1.45MB )
2012_04_10_16.45.26__1_.jpg ( 1.43MB )
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I have a 2003 Toyota Corolla with a leaking timing chain tensioner. I was able to locate a procedure for replacing the tensioner but it didn't say whether the no. 1 cylinder had to be @ TDC or not. What is the proper procedure for this repair?
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Yesterday i went to mechanic and changed Timing chain tensioners, with chains and all guides. But still have 2 second voice on startup, once oil pressure lights off everything fine. I paid heavy price on parts and labour but very disappointed after hear same noise again today morning which i was listening from one year purchase of this car... Sonata 3.3l v6 ....
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My son's 2007 Hyundai Sonata had an engine noise that was eventually diagnosed as bad timing chain tensioners. However, one Hyundai dealer repeatedly denied the problem, so it was 8 months before another Hyundai dealer admitted it and changed the tensioners. A couple of months later, the engine light and oil light were on and he was told he needed a new oil pump. By this time, the warranty had expired and he had to pay for the new oil pump and eventually a new engine. My question is this: Could the failure of the oil pump have had anything to do with the timing chain tensioner problem?
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