I have my VRT to the point where it should be able to be started and run but it just cuts off after about 2 seconds.
Here are a few videos I took while trying to start it. To me or sounds like an immobilizer issue but I don't know for sure.
Please ignore my mess of an engine bay... that's only temporary while it try to get this thing running.
[URL] ....
The car will start and run for about 10 seconds and stall. The engine has been completely rebuilt 20k miles ago. The timing is perfect and the car makes 190psi on every cylinder
I should point out that it is NOT the immobilizer. it has been checked over and over and verified to not be the immobilizer. Here is everything that has been done.
- New fuel pump
- fuel filter
- fuel pump relay
- fuel pressure regulator
- fuel injectors
- fuel pressure has been verified
- spark plugs
- ignition coils
- crankshaft position sensor
- cam position sensor
- MAF sensor
- throttle body
- CU has been tried in another Jetta. worked fine
- gauge cluster worked fine in other Jetta as well.
- brand new battery
- alternator checked and passed
- grounds checked, all fine
The car has been scanned with VCDS. Here are the results:
6 Faults Found:
01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
00955 - Key 1
09-10 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed - Intermittent
01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01333 - Door Control Module; Rear Left (J388)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
Here is a video of what the car is doing.
I am able to rev the engine but it dies quickly afterwards. vacuum pressure looks completely fine on the boost gauge.
My roommate has a 1.8t jetta as well so I have access to his car for trying things with.
I own a 2003 Jetta that is standard. I was driving to school today and the engine just cut off. It was acting as if I had stalled out but it was in neutral and the clutch was all the way down. I've also had problems with my car not wanting to start. If I press on the gas once or twice that usually fixes that problem.
View 5 RepliesSo, my brother has an 01' VW Jetta 2.8 VR6 with a 120k miles on it. He was recently driving around 50mph when the engine cut out, he lost all power and all the lights on the dash came on. He didn't get any loud bang when it happened, it just cut out. He tried to restart the car but heard the starter try and nothing else.
He got it towed to a garage who said they suspected it might be a timing chain but they couldn't say for sure until they started poking around. He doesn't recall getting the loud "marbles in an" noise when the chain is about to go. They were quoting around $4k to replace the engine. Being as my brother is a poor student this isn't something he can do, plus he'd already replaced the radiator, tires and all that and I want to verify what is wrong with it.
After sorting out a bunch of other things and basically rebuilding my engine, I'm down to 1 pesky problem. My engine won't run if the driver door is open...
With the door closed and engine on, its great. AFRs are high 13s to mid 14s, 19-ish vac, smooth and steady idle. But when I open the driver door the engine cuts off. I can pull the lever and hold the door close, its fine. When I release the door and it gets past a certain point, the engine stops.
I get a bunch of short to ground codes BUT only after scanning after the engine cuts off via the door. If I clear them and scan it before said occurrence, I only get an engine speed sensor code.
I can roll the windows up and down, door locks, mirrors, passenger door, sun roof, open the hatch, hood and gas door with killing the engine. Its ONLY when I open the driver door...
I currently own a 2001 Jetta 1.8t. It is currently tuned for 15 psi supposedly. I have never seen that number been hit and the highest it will go(only in 4th and 5th gear) is 13-14psi on a good day. And even when it does get there it does not hold the boost what so ever. It will start losing boost almost as soon as it reaches those numbers. Another thing is my MAF is currently unplugged and is making my car throw a code. When MAF is plugged in it cuts out boost and goes into "limp" mode.
Here are some engine mods that may be apart of this issue:
- Front mount intercooler, full intercooler pipe kit
- Oem diverter valve
- N75 j valve
- ACHTUNING tune on 15 psi not sure which stage
- Forged turbo inlet pipe
- 032 motorsports crankcase breather hose conversion
- Ecs tuning
- 2.0t coilpacks and mounting plate
- AWP head
My bmw started fine.then as i was driving it cut out. it took 5 minutes to get it started.now it fires up for 30 seconds or so then cuts out.
today it wouldnt start at all and i cant hear the fuel pump priming when I turn the ignition on ... 1991 bmw 320sei ....
I have a 2007 Jetta with 75k miles on it. What I'm running into is that out-of-the blue, the car will not start. Generally, it turns over, but never starts. One time, it started but shut itself off after 3 seconds. Warning lights that flash are the steering wheel indicator and sometimes the traction control and immobilizer lights. I replaced the battery hoping that that would fix it, but it hasn't. Notably, the engine light is usually on when starting and goes off after 3 seconds, but now it doesn't go on at all.
The issue first started a few weeks ago, but I could successfully start it 15 min later. No issues for 2 weeks, until the traction control light came on and stayed on while driving. Nothing for a few days, and then suddenly could not start again (tried over a period of 3 days). Towed to a shop, where it started after two days.
I have a 2001 Plymouth neon and the coolant fan cuts on and off about every 30 seconds .
View 2 Replies02 Jetta GLS Turbo 1.8. The car runs perfectly fine, and has good power, but one out of 5 starts at minimum it sets the check engine light exactly 6 seconds after starting the engine. It is most commonly a P0340 - Cam Position Sensor Circ Error, I'd say 70% of the time. The other 30% of the time it is a P0011 - Camshaft Position Timing-Over-Advanced. And once or twice it set a P0012 - Camshaft Position Timing-Over-Retarded. It will only ever set one of the codes. I clear it after it sets, and it will never set the code while driving the car.
- I've double-checked the timing belt, and it is spot on. Could not ask for a more perfect lineup of the timing marks.
- There is no noise or rattle on cold start
- The car carries good oil pressure and I'm on a fresh change with Pentosin 5w40
- I checked continuity on the outer two pins on the cam position sensor with a result of 1.910 ohms.
What I should be looking for next? Almost spent for a new cam position sensor, but hate to throw money if there is something I could test to narrow this down. I can't find any test procedures in the Bentley manuals, but maybe I'm not looking in the right spots. The index has no mention of the camshaft position sensor.
So I go to start up the old girl the other day and she turned right over, ran for about 2 seconds, and shut down. I tried to start it again with the same result. When I turn the ignition forward, before starting it, this image with a car and a key below it starts flashing on the gauge and the odometer starts flashing "service". I tried using a different key with the same results, what this might be?
View 5 RepliesSo CEL had been on since I got it, but last week, the CEL would flash briefly for about 10secs and go away.
I know I shouldn't be driving it when it flashes but I gotta work.... I've noticed some shuddering when driving so I checked it for some codes and came back with the following:
16684 Random misfire detected
16689 Cylinder 5 misfire
16687 Cylinder 3 misfire
17524 Bank 1 sensor 1 circuit open
16524 Oxygen sensor circuit bank 1 sensor 2
17606 02 Sensor Heater circuit Bank1 Sensor 2- Electrical malfunction
The car would run perfectly smooth most times but every now and then I can feel the shudder in my seat, kind of worrying.. (I know I shouldn't be driving it when it flashes but I gotta work...). Noticed its more of a problem when cold and wet, so could it actually be coils/sparkplugs? Super poor right now cuz of school but don't want a dead car, which approach to take and what part to fix first?
I was coming at the climb, my car hit limp mode twice and later I noticed my CEL was on. I let it sit over night when I got where I was going and started it up today started fine but the CEL came on after it ran idle for about 45 seconds. I check the oil and it was on the low end. What it could be?
I drive a mk4 tdi with a malone tune. I am heading back to the valley tomorrow evening I'm just by kamloops right now. Also what oil should I top it with just so it isn't so low for the return trip? (Always get my oil done at the shop)
I have a 2003 Pontiac Vibe that was new to me in 2011. Pushing 180k+ miles. It was subject to the airbag recall last summer and has been repaired by the GM guys. But last fall I was driving at around 70mph with the cruise on and came up to a speed change so I tapped the brakes to end the cruise and EVERYTHING went dark in the car- radio, dashboard, a/c, the electrical charging plug- EVERYTHING for about 5-7 seconds. Then everything came back on and I continued as normal. My mechanic was dumbfounded. Figured one time freak thing so no worries.
No issues since until this morning. On the drive to work I had the high beams on as it was 5:15 in the morning on a state highway in the country. Came up on a red light so flipped high beams off. EVERYTHING goes dark for 5-7 seconds, comes back on, and I continue as normal. Obviously I'm getting a little concerned at the randomness, not to mention that losing power at 70mph is a little disconcerting. Mechanic is dumbfounded but willing to tear up the dash and steering column and see if he can't recreate the issue.
My beloved Hyundai Santa Fe,2006 model's engine light came up. The engine starts and than about 10 seconds after cuts out straight away. What to do. I have always taken care of this car and being serviced well.
View 23 RepliesMy 2007 Hyundai will randomly after being parked for 3+ hours will stall (engine shakes for two seconds then cuts off) when attempting to reverse. This only happens when the car is turned on then trying to reverse. It will NOT do this when driving and later putting the vehicle into reverse. Additionally when the weather is extremely cold or hot this becomes more frequent. If the car can be shifted into reverse without stalling within 5 seconds it will NOT stall. To solve the problem I have to either keep trying to turn on the car and shifting to reverse until it doesn't stall out (sometimes 3 tries or more) or putting the car into neutral and pushing. I have to stress this only happens after having the vehicle sit for more than several hours even a day and is random. One day no matter how many times I tried turning the car on and trying to reverse and repeating it would not stop stalling out. I had to wait till the parallel parked car in front of me moved so I could get out of my spot. What is wrong with my car? I have taken it to Porter Hyundai TWICE and they cannot determine the problem even after scanning for codes.
View 1 RepliesWhen trying to drive my car out of the garage this weekend, it started backing up and then it stopped. It would also not do anything when I put it in drive. Next, the engine cut out. It would only stay on for a few seconds when starting it up again. It continued to do this. I had the car brought to my local mechanic who specializes in foreign cars. He called me today and said my car will not talk to the computer. He stated it must be the hybrid battery. He told me I need to take it to a Toyota dealer. My question is how to know if this battery is truly out and there is not another problem? I have a 2001 Prius.
View 3 RepliesI recently bought a 2006 Jetta with 31,000 from a used imported cars salesman. I've had it for 5 or 6 months and have put on 4,000 miles since I've gotten it. Sometimes it won't start for 2 or 3 days, it wil rumble the engine for 5 to 10 seconds then shut off. Then it will randomly start working fine for a day or two, and repeat itself.
View 6 RepliesI have a question about my Golf MK4 1998 - 1.6
I was out driving to work today, and when i cam to a roundabout, the engine stopped. The battery light was lighting as if the ignition only was on, and the steering wheel was extremely hard to use. The gal pedal didn't even work either. After a few(2-3-4) seconds, the car automatic started again, and i could gas and steer normally.
What could this be due to? I know i have some problems with the starter on the car(when i start it sometimes it gives me this loud elephant noise), but it should not have anything to do with it..
Weird A/C issue that started yesterday. Had ac on all morning, start my car after lunch, a/c runs for a few seconds, hear a squeak (like a belt sticking) no more a/c. Moving the temp knob makes no change just all hot air. Both fans engage, compressor and what I believe is the clutch engage, hoses get cold, and no CEL's. Really stumped here.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 Jetta TDI Manuel. New to me from brother. While there are some issues I can deal with ....soft touch turned to goo, etc there is one thing I am worried about.
He said the lights(all electrics) will go out intermittently. Head lights, turn signals, radio, interior lights. He says the car runs fine while the electronics are out (except no headlights). Usually only happens for a few seconds but occasionally will last minutes. Longest it has happened is 10 minutes and the lights all come back on by themselves.
What could cause this and what needs to be done for fixing? He is a outboard mechanic and has kept the car up great, but he doesn't like to mess with wiring/electrics. I'm sure he has checked the basics.