Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Intermittent Loss Of All Electrical For A Few Seconds


Nov 16, 2015

I have a 2002 Jetta TDI Manuel. New to me from brother. While there are some issues I can deal with ....soft touch turned to goo, etc there is one thing I am worried about.

He said the lights(all electrics) will go out intermittently. Head lights, turn signals, radio, interior lights. He says the car runs fine while the electronics are out (except no headlights). Usually only happens for a few seconds but occasionally will last minutes. Longest it has happened is 10 minutes and the lights all come back on by themselves.

What could cause this and what needs to be done for fixing? He is a outboard mechanic and has kept the car up great, but he doesn't like to mess with wiring/electrics. I'm sure he has checked the basics.

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Jetta - Volkswagen :: 2001 - Intermittent Loss Of Power

My 01 VW Jetta with 181690 miles started having intermittent loss of power a year ago:

1) it never conks out;
2) it loses power on the highway at 70 or in town at 25;
3) engine is usually hot, about an hour into a trip, but now does it cold, too;
4) weather doesn't matter: dry or wet;
5) check engine light flashes while it happens
6) it feels like it's running out of gas but isn't.

Mechanics have tried the following: Note: every time I brought it in to be looked at, the symptoms above were happening :

1) March 2013: replaced coil pack and it ran fine until Sep;
2) Sep 2013: ran Dx on check engine light: "arching all over the place" so replace spark plug wires;
3) Dec 2013: got oil changed
4) Jan 2014: ran Dx and was told crack in piston;
5) Jan 2014: got second opinion and told wrong spark plugs were used (single electrode vs triple electrode)-replaced all spark plugs; got car inspected and had oil changed again as it was dirty;
6) Feb 2014 mechanic is stumped, but found an article about clean oil and changed the oil again. Oil was down almost a quart.

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Dodge - Electrical-wiring - Ram50 :: 1995 - Intermittent Dash Panel Electrical Malfunction?

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Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Engine Power Loss With AC On

Today i come here for a AC/Compressor trouble: The AC on my Jetta 2000 2.0 works very well, however it seems that the engine loses a lot of power when the AC is on (the acceleration becomes very slow), and at the moment of turn on the compressor, the engine revolutions down to 400 rpm for a couple of seconds (after back to normality, 800rpm on idle).

I know that the power loss on engine is "normal" with the AC, but in mi case, seems excessive, and the fuel consumption, when the AC is on is vey high too. I think that maybe the compressor is stuck, but I'm not sure about that.

As additional information, i scanned the engine codes an throws P0422 (related to oxygen sensor)

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Golf IV / Jetta IV :: VRT Just Cuts Off After About 2 Seconds - No Start

I have my VRT to the point where it should be able to be started and run but it just cuts off after about 2 seconds.

Here are a few videos I took while trying to start it. To me or sounds like an immobilizer issue but I don't know for sure.

Please ignore my mess of an engine bay... that's only temporary while it try to get this thing running.

[URL] ....

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02 Jetta GLS Turbo 1.8. The car runs perfectly fine, and has good power, but one out of 5 starts at minimum it sets the check engine light exactly 6 seconds after starting the engine. It is most commonly a P0340 - Cam Position Sensor Circ Error, I'd say 70% of the time. The other 30% of the time it is a P0011 - Camshaft Position Timing-Over-Advanced. And once or twice it set a P0012 - Camshaft Position Timing-Over-Retarded. It will only ever set one of the codes. I clear it after it sets, and it will never set the code while driving the car.

- I've double-checked the timing belt, and it is spot on. Could not ask for a more perfect lineup of the timing marks.
- There is no noise or rattle on cold start
- The car carries good oil pressure and I'm on a fresh change with Pentosin 5w40
- I checked continuity on the outer two pins on the cam position sensor with a result of 1.910 ohms.

What I should be looking for next? Almost spent for a new cam position sensor, but hate to throw money if there is something I could test to narrow this down. I can't find any test procedures in the Bentley manuals, but maybe I'm not looking in the right spots. The index has no mention of the camshaft position sensor.

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Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Car Will Start And Run For About 10 Seconds Then Stall

The car will start and run for about 10 seconds and stall. The engine has been completely rebuilt 20k miles ago. The timing is perfect and the car makes 190psi on every cylinder

I should point out that it is NOT the immobilizer. it has been checked over and over and verified to not be the immobilizer. Here is everything that has been done.

- New fuel pump
- fuel filter
- fuel pump relay
- fuel pressure regulator
- fuel injectors
- fuel pressure has been verified
- spark plugs
- ignition coils
- crankshaft position sensor
- cam position sensor
- MAF sensor
- throttle body
- CU has been tried in another Jetta. worked fine
- gauge cluster worked fine in other Jetta as well.
- brand new battery
- alternator checked and passed
- grounds checked, all fine

The car has been scanned with VCDS. Here are the results:

6 Faults Found:

01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent

00955 - Key 1
09-10 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed - Intermittent

01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent

01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent

01333 - Door Control Module; Rear Left (J388)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent

01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent

Here is a video of what the car is doing.

I am able to rev the engine but it dies quickly afterwards. vacuum pressure looks completely fine on the boost gauge.

My roommate has a 1.8t jetta as well so I have access to his car for trying things with.

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So CEL had been on since I got it, but last week, the CEL would flash briefly for about 10secs and go away.

I know I shouldn't be driving it when it flashes but I gotta work.... I've noticed some shuddering when driving so I checked it for some codes and came back with the following:

16684 Random misfire detected
16689 Cylinder 5 misfire
16687 Cylinder 3 misfire
17524 Bank 1 sensor 1 circuit open
16524 Oxygen sensor circuit bank 1 sensor 2
17606 02 Sensor Heater circuit Bank1 Sensor 2- Electrical malfunction

The car would run perfectly smooth most times but every now and then I can feel the shudder in my seat, kind of worrying.. (I know I shouldn't be driving it when it flashes but I gotta work...). Noticed its more of a problem when cold and wet, so could it actually be coils/sparkplugs? Super poor right now cuz of school but don't want a dead car, which approach to take and what part to fix first?

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I drive a mk4 tdi with a malone tune. I am heading back to the valley tomorrow evening I'm just by kamloops right now. Also what oil should I top it with just so it isn't so low for the return trip? (Always get my oil done at the shop)

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Severe loss of power, sputtering bad. when i shift, the car revs a bit. installed new O2 sensor due to a rich code and a out of range code. Now the EPC light is on with an implausible brake switch signal. Replaced switch still comes back on. Still running like poop. Changed the plugs also about 1k back. I just ordered a MAF.

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I started noticing this problem on the day I got the car tuned, I hadn't noticed it before hand. I replaced the spark plugs and it worked a little, but it continues to do it.

The problem: When I get on it at WOT under full boost, around 2500 rpms, the car loses all torque, misfires spits and sputters throughout the rpm range until about 5300 rpms then it all of a sudden has torque and pulls great.

I don't have any boost leaks that I know of along with vaccum leaks. There is no flashing cel or misfire code for my coil packs. Can this be a faulty n75 valve? if so what could fix it?

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My car has been throwing a code P2178

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Checked the intake, checked maf, checked injectors.

Today after leaving show n go. Stopped at a gas station (never turned off the car) leaving the gas station the car was loosing power, I thought I was in 3rd instead of first. No, I was in 1st. Driving and car was sputtering and wasn't getting any power. After a few blocks it sounded like its gonna shut off. Pulled over to the side. Car died, doesn't wanna start again. Got spark, got fuel to the injectors, discoed the sensor to maf, still cranks but doesn't start. Got it towed to NY from NJ. Still no start. Few people said crankshaft sensor, starter, clogged cat or fuel filter. Car isn't throwing any codes now (probably cuz the motor didn't start) any clues on what it can be?

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Got to a stop sign and it died on me. Battery light came on at this time as well. Started back up no problem but idled rough and kept dying. Just kept restarting and moving bit by bit until I could get home. EPC and check engine stayed on through all of this.

I also noticed that it would buck like crazy around 3000 rpm and not increase past that point. What could be going on here? I'm going to pull codes when I get home.

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I was out driving to work today, and when i cam to a roundabout, the engine stopped. The battery light was lighting as if the ignition only was on, and the steering wheel was extremely hard to use. The gal pedal didn't even work either. After a few(2-3-4) seconds, the car automatic started again, and i could gas and steer normally.

What could this be due to? I know i have some problems with the starter on the car(when i start it sometimes it gives me this loud elephant noise), but it should not have anything to do with it..

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