I have a 2002 VW jetta 1.8t recently I've noticed that in 5th gear around 35-45 mph its losing acceleration. its a tiptronic so i can just downshift speed up a bit an o to 5th, however I don't want that to be the permanent fix, what this is or why its doing it?
View 1 RepliesI have a 04.5 GLI 1.8t, performance mods include, cone filter on the end of my maf, silicone TIP, Forge splitter, 3in custom tbe and unitronics stage 2
I started noticing this problem on the day I got the car tuned, I hadn't noticed it before hand. I replaced the spark plugs and it worked a little, but it continues to do it.
The problem: When I get on it at WOT under full boost, around 2500 rpms, the car loses all torque, misfires spits and sputters throughout the rpm range until about 5300 rpms then it all of a sudden has torque and pulls great.
I don't have any boost leaks that I know of along with vaccum leaks. There is no flashing cel or misfire code for my coil packs. Can this be a faulty n75 valve? if so what could fix it?
Having problems where sometimes the car won't go into gear, other times it's fine? The problem started after some hard acceleration in 3rd, there was what felt like a momentary loss in power. I dipped the clutch as I thought a boost pipe had popped off, all was fine (still seeing boost when revved). After this it got progressively harder to get gears, finally resulting in not being able to get into gear at all.
I found I could get it into 1st with the engine off and could go up gears normally, but couldn't change down without stopping and turning the engine off. The clutch is working fine, the biting point is normal. The problem seams to come and go randomly, it will work fine for a while and then start playing up again. When working the gearbox feels normal, there is no grinding or wining noises. I can move between gears normally and do clutch less gear changes.
There is now a vibration which can be felt at 1000rpm when stationary. It feels like it coming from the engine/gearbox and seems like something is out of balance as it shakes the whole car. The car is on 91k, supercharged running 470hp & 370lb/ft (at flywheel) and is fitted with a Spec stage 3+ clutch and solid flywheel.
Ok, so I was driving normal highway speeds and all of a sudden, I realize a major drop in power. I pull over and restart it and it changes nothing. Now when I floor it, it takes 20-30 seconds to get to 90K.
I checked the air filter... Nothing. Used a code reader... Nothing. Then I decided to pressure test the cylinders... Nothing, except now the check engine light is on.
The Ol Dub is still drivable, but it is extremely slow and rough at idle. I am thinking it might be a MAF or fuel filter.
I have a 2002 Jetta GLS that I got recently, it has 136,XXX miles on it and has a whine sounds like coming from the transmission or differential that starts around 2000-2500 rpm and gets a bit quieter at 3000. Transmission shifts smoothly, fresh oil change on trans and differential with no difference. It does not whine if the car is parked and you rev the engine, only does it while driving. Transmission is automatic
View 2 RepliesWondering what could be possible causes of severe shaking while under acceleration?? Also does it worse when turning right. Will just vibrate and start going wherever.
View 2 RepliesSo today I was driving my car and everything was fine. I get to a freeway off ramp. I put it in first and it goes like normal I shift from first to second and then into third when i shifted into third, I hear a grind sound like I miss shifted or something. I continue on and when I get to a red light I go to take off in first and nothing...The car wont move!! I have the clutch all the way out and its in gear and nothing... I can have the car running and the clutch out and i can shift it in any gear and nothing happens. I have a spec stage one and an 8lbs smf in the car and before i could hear clutch chatter and now when i have the clutch out I don't hear anything? What is causing this?
View 3 RepliesSo last night I bought a rather nice low mileage tiptronic jetta for a good price that supposedly needs a new transmission (girl was quoted $5k to fix at a shop). The car starts right up and moves under it's own power...for about 2 minutes. I haven't actually driven the car but moved it forward and reverse a few times in the parking lot last night. Got out to look at something and when I got back in there was zero response from the tranny, any gear. Engine just revs. Seems a bit different than the usual slipping in gear or violent shifts these trannys are known for.
View 4 RepliesDrove my 02 VW golf GL to the airport, it sat there for 4 days, drove it back home. Next day I noticed that my 1st gear and reverse are very hard to get into. So I kept messing around with it and noticed that if I tried to put it slowly into first gear that there was no way in hell it would go, it felt like the gear was closed.
But if I put it into second gear and push it from second gear into first gear it goes back into first gear about 70% of the time. And it will also go into first gear if I push my stick down as if I'm attempting to go into reverse, and slowly move it into 1st gear.
The reverse is also very hard to get into it feels just like the 1st gear does when you try to do it slowly, it's like it's closed off/blocked. Latest work that was done to the car, replaced the clutch about 4-5 months ago.
I noticed twice yesterday when I was accelerating from an intersection, going into 2nd gear (or 3rd depending on how short 1st is) it feels like it slips into neutral and I lose acceleration. If I take my foot off the gas and coast for a moment then re-apply acceleration, it goes on as normal without any problems.
66k miles... Owned it for 2 years and have had no other issues and have only taken it in for oil changes.
Am I correct in assuming the ATF is supposed to be good for the life of the vehicle?
My car will not leave first gear until the car reaches 60 x 100 revs 9 has heated up. After leaving first gear it shifts smoothly so I doubt its the transmission fluid, plus it's over 14 thousand miles and I was told not to change the fluid for the transmission. I think it could be a bad solenoid because when I bought the car the dealership wouldn't let me take it home until they installed a new one or else "it wouldn't leave first gear" if so witch solenoid would that be so I could replace it.
View 7 RepliesI have an '02 GTI VR6. It died on me on the freeway after surging then limping to a stop and wouldn't restart. I replaced my fuel pump 5 months ago and now I suspect that it has died again, but I want to be absolutely sure that the pump is the problem before I replace it again.
Last time the car would sometimes hesitate in 1st and 2nd for a couple weeks before the pump actually went bad. This time it seemed fine for 5 months then just went out.
The pump does not prime when I open the door. I checked fuse #28 and it's not blown, but there doesn't seem to be any power to it. I tested the power to the fuel pump connector. When I turn the key on I get ~12v for a split second then nothing. While cranking the engine I get ~9v constantly. I hooked a square 9v battery straight to the two outside connectors on the pump and nothing happened.
Can I be sure that the pump is the only problem? Obviously it's dead, but is there any reason for fuse 28 to not be getting power? And should the connector only be getting power for a split second when the ignition is turned on? I tried a different fuel pump relay with no change.
I purchased a 2002 gti in Febuary with 161k miles. I believe it was a couple weeks after I bought it - it started making this creaking sound. At first it was more rare to hear it but it occurred going on uneven surfaces like up a steep hill or around an uneven turn or even stopping and going. It basically happened when the front end pitched up/down. It sounds almost like a rubber creaking or even plastic. (Some sort of bushing maybe? I'm no expert) Now it is rare for it not to make the creaking when taking off or slowing to a stop. It only occurs at lower speeds like right when taking off or at the very end of the stop right before the actual stop.
It will even slightly make the noise when accelerating in second gear right after shifting. (This is occasional) When I come to a complete stop and turn the wheel side to side ot will make the sound for a couple of turns and then go away. I have tried rocking the car and pushing down on it to replicate the sound. No luck. I lubricated various bushings and parts with silicon. It seemed to fix it but it only lasted for a few hours. (This could've been coincidental) It doesn't make the sound 100% of the time though. Probably at least 90% though when coming to a stop and going. It seems as the environmental factors (Temp and humidity) have a small effect on the creaking. I have a neuspeed 25mm front swaybar with endlinks.
My wife and I recently purchased a 2013 Jetta and have noticed some abnormal lag when accelerating. It's an automatic transmission and the gear shifts aren't as smooth as they should be. I have read that it is possibly related to the drive by wire system and may just be an inherent result of that system.
View 4 RepliesAbout 3 weeks ago I purchased my MK7 GTI SE w/ DSG. About a week ago, I started noticing a very slight rasp around 3.5k and up under heavy WOT. Note the sound was very subtle in the cabin and unsure what it sounded like outside. This past weekend, I started noticing a loss in power, especially after 2nd gear. A strange sound under throttle--almost sounds like a supercharger winding down (hollow with a slight whine)--when giving a good bit of gas around 2.5k and up occurs. At first I though it was road noise from my neighborhoods new roads since the sound only occurs on new roads, but realized that noise never occurred the first few weeks I had the car. No CEL.
I took it to the dealership on a rainy day, so they couldn't see the loss of power with the car breaking loose, but they didn't find anything. I'm bringing it back this Friday to see what they can find. I talked with one of the service guys today and they think it may be a drivetrain problem. Supposedly no loose hoses and is holding boost normally. Any leads to what it may be??
Today i come here for a AC/Compressor trouble: The AC on my Jetta 2000 2.0 works very well, however it seems that the engine loses a lot of power when the AC is on (the acceleration becomes very slow), and at the moment of turn on the compressor, the engine revolutions down to 400 rpm for a couple of seconds (after back to normality, 800rpm on idle).
I know that the power loss on engine is "normal" with the AC, but in mi case, seems excessive, and the fuel consumption, when the AC is on is vey high too. I think that maybe the compressor is stuck, but I'm not sure about that.
As additional information, i scanned the engine codes an throws P0422 (related to oxygen sensor)
Background facts:
Tranny swapped from my 4 speed auto to a 1.8t o2j 5spd
13lb. Light flywheel
Powerflex dogbone mounts
Peloquin LSD
The problem: Very hard to get a smooth shift from gear to gear. Trust me, I know how to drive, but I can always feel the car shifting into a different gear if you know what I'm saying. On my friend's bone stock Jetta, I just let the clutch out without gas in between shifts and you don't feel a thing.
On my car, you feel EVERYTHING. People have told me the light flywheel will make the ride more uncomfortable in many ways, especially since the RPMs drop much quicker in between shifts than stock.
I bought a 2000 jetta gls vr6 5-speed. Only had the car about 4 weeks, already I am in, ball joints, struts, brakes, core leaks and my half shaft fell off at the transmission. Now, driveabilty issue.
Severe loss of power, sputtering bad. when i shift, the car revs a bit. installed new O2 sensor due to a rich code and a out of range code. Now the EPC light is on with an implausible brake switch signal. Replaced switch still comes back on. Still running like poop. Changed the plugs also about 1k back. I just ordered a MAF.
My car has been throwing a code P2178
P2187 System Too Lean at Idle (Bank 1) DTC.
Checked the intake, checked maf, checked injectors.
Today after leaving show n go. Stopped at a gas station (never turned off the car) leaving the gas station the car was loosing power, I thought I was in 3rd instead of first. No, I was in 1st. Driving and car was sputtering and wasn't getting any power. After a few blocks it sounded like its gonna shut off. Pulled over to the side. Car died, doesn't wanna start again. Got spark, got fuel to the injectors, discoed the sensor to maf, still cranks but doesn't start. Got it towed to NY from NJ. Still no start. Few people said crankshaft sensor, starter, clogged cat or fuel filter. Car isn't throwing any codes now (probably cuz the motor didn't start) any clues on what it can be?
Started my car (02 with a 2.0) this morning and as I pulled away the EPC light came on and the car lost power, almost stalling. I kept on going, and then the check engine light came on.
Got to a stop sign and it died on me. Battery light came on at this time as well. Started back up no problem but idled rough and kept dying. Just kept restarting and moving bit by bit until I could get home. EPC and check engine stayed on through all of this.
I also noticed that it would buck like crazy around 3000 rpm and not increase past that point. What could be going on here? I'm going to pull codes when I get home.
I have a 2002 Jetta TDI Manuel. New to me from brother. While there are some issues I can deal with ....soft touch turned to goo, etc there is one thing I am worried about.
He said the lights(all electrics) will go out intermittently. Head lights, turn signals, radio, interior lights. He says the car runs fine while the electronics are out (except no headlights). Usually only happens for a few seconds but occasionally will last minutes. Longest it has happened is 10 minutes and the lights all come back on by themselves.
What could cause this and what needs to be done for fixing? He is a outboard mechanic and has kept the car up great, but he doesn't like to mess with wiring/electrics. I'm sure he has checked the basics.