On my drive home today around 2500-3000 rpm I am getting real bad lifter ticking noise. When I let of the gas it stops but as soon as I get back on it it will start ticking again. I just bought oil for an oil change Mobile 1
0W-40 I'm pretty sure plus a mobile 1 filter. Will this stop the ticking noise or do I need to adjust my lifters?
The rattle, 1.8t GLI
-2500-3000 RPM
-Car can be in gear or out of gear, rev rattle is the same.
-Sometimes, I can hear the rattle when the car is off and I slam the door slightly harder than usual.
-My hood release cable may have been the culprit, but I could only zip-tie part of it and the rattle hasn't changed.
One really important clue is that when I have reached around the area between my engine and airbox, the rattle has gone away. So I had a bad coolant flange, so when reaching my phone down there to take pictures, I must have bumped or pressed something because the noise was gone for about a mile.
I recently had my airbox out and a visual inspection didn't show any promise and tapping on random parts didn't recreate the sound.
There is am RPM rattle near my airbox....
My 1.8t motor is still ticking around 2500-3500rpm. I have changed the oil with 5w-40 mobil1 no even 75 miles on oil change, Brand new oil pump with tensioner and chain. oil pick up tube cleaned and good. new plugs about 75 miles on them as well. Always ran 93 octane (highest I can get at my gas station) Only thing left that I can think of is my cam tensioner is bad.
When I accelerate up to speed it starts ticking but as soon as I let off the throttle it will stop get back on the gas it starts again.
Stockish 2000 gti 1.8t 5 speed. short ram intake.
Is there a way to tell if the cam tensioner is bad? .
I just punches a 2010 Camry 4 cylinder with 44,646 miles. Very clean. I've owned 2 camrys in the past a 97 and 2002 that both reached well over 200,00 miles without a hint of trouble. Well, when I start the 2010 when its cold like from overnight it sounds like the lifter are ticking?, it lasts until the engine is warm and then I don't hear it. It still has the 2 month 3000 mile warranty from the dealer. I just don't seem to remember our other Toyota sounding that way.
View 14 RepliesI recently purchased a 2013 elantra.
I have noticed that there is engine vibration and noise felt in car and pedal when accelerating at around 2500-3000 rpm's before it shifts. Is this normal behavior? It just does not seem as smooth as it should be. I have only put about 600 miles on the car.
It has been very cold, but it does not go away after warming up.
I've been getting a blinking engine check light.. I pulled all the codes:
P0050: H02S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
P0155: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sen 1
P0304: cylinder 4 Misfire detected
P0688: ECM/PCM Power relay sensor circuit
I've had the car sitting for awhile because I lost my job and didn't have any money to roll it around much.
I just changed out the spark plugs and two of these had a white coating on them.. I was hoping this would take care of the misfire after I replaced them. I also bought a new battery because mine had lost charge a few times.
The Car will run with an engine check light, but if I go past 2500-3000 rpms then it will start blinking (which means don't drive it )
The oil has been sitting in it for about 2 months, so I'm about to go change that and I'm hoping this will allow me to drive it without issues.
Any of these codes thrown and know what they could be? Which O2 sensor (like a link to a website that sells them). Trying to get this thing running again.
I've noticed lately, that when I do some spirited driving, my rcf is making this weird raspy type ticking noise from around 2500 rpm to 4000 rpm. It definitely doesn't sound normal...
When I take my car in for body repair next week, I plan on having the dealership change the breaks according to the TSB issued and also checking out this noise.
I'm wondering if the Fram Toughgard filter is the culprit. First time I'm using this brand. I know this car has had noisy lifter before, but it was all gone for a while, and mysteriously came back after the oil change. It's not the fluid level, which is fine. It should be noted that the lifter noise doesn't happen until the engine is warm and has been taken up to highway speeds.
View 1 RepliesI've a 02 Jetta GLS - 2.0 engine..
About a week back, I have started to hear a ticking noise from the hood. It is exactly same as someone else posted video on youtube below:
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What could be potential problem areas?
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What in the world is this clicking/ticking noise? It is the loudest thing in the engine bay, and as you can hear, it does NOT sound normal. It appears to be emanating around/under the fuel rail.
MKIV Jetta wagon 2004. Bought used last year. Four previous owners with 125K on it.
Problem: After oil change where I previously had 5W-30 with valvoline dino, I changed with a different brand 5W-30 (Peak brand). Ticking noise started immediately from engine area usually only after it got up to temperature. Also using different oil filter. Initially not sure if it was injector or lifter tick. It ended up being lifter tick, and the give away was when going down a small hill and the engine downshifting, the increase RPM caused the tick to increase at the same rate. So here is the path I went down.
1. Swapped out oil filter - no change. I thought this might work because I was using a fram tough guard.
2. Added some rislone with ZDDP additive. Quieted down the valvetrain quite a bit, but did not solve the problem
3. Added rislone engine treatment. Got better, but still not totally solved.
4. Tried to "drive it out" and get some mileage on the rislone . Didn't work. Definitely better though
Finally, after all that I figured let's give my baby some of the thick sauce. So I pulled out a quart from the diptube with my suction device and put in a quart of 10W-40. Almost immediately PROBLEM GONE. So either that crappy peak oil doesn't have the viscosity that it advertises, or the valve train is just getting old and needs a little bit thicker oil in the summer. Probably both. I will also keep using a small dose of the ZDDP additive to extend the life of the valvetrain, as it sounds really good with that stuff in the system.
While switching freeways yesterday and shifting down into 3rd before hitting the exit ramp I heard I a slight clunk, and then this continual noise began. I initially wasn't quite sure if it was my car or the sound of the of the large semi engine braking in front of me so I continued on to the freeway and was able to shift back up to 5th and get to speed.
However, I held back to around 60Mph because the noise started to worry me as I continued to hear it after passing the 18 wheeler semi. I got off at the next exit and noticed that the noise ONLY occurs when the car is decelerating. It happens in every gear as well as neutral; having the clutch in or out doesn't make a difference either.
*When accelerating in any gear, even the slightest bit, the noise disappears.
I've scavenged the forums to find a similar issue but to no avail.
I've uploaded a video that shows the issue occurring. The video is taken from the driver's side wheel, but the sound resonates throughout the front of the car, can't really pinpoint where though.
2002 Jetta 1.8t possible transmission noise
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2002 Jetta 1.8t ... 210k Miles
I've recently replaced the Control arms, outer tie rod ends, ball joints, springs, struts, all for rotors/pads, rear calipers, handbrake cables, timing belt (with pulley kit) water pump, etc. full syn Oil changes every 3k-3.5k miles, Premium petrol only.
I recently found out when I open the door to my mk4 jetta it starts to make this loud ticking noise. It happen when I open only three doors the two front and the rear passenger. I have no clue what it is i even asked my mechanic who has been working on volkswagens for years and he said hes never heard anything like it.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 mk4 Gli 1.8T with 69,000 miles. This ticking sound that I hear from the inside of my car is coming from the right side of the engine bay. It starts during idle. It starts ticking and gets a little faster and then stops for a few seconds then begins again. It fully stops while driving. I changed tensioner, belt, serpentine belt, water pump, and oil change with mobile 1 synthetic 0w-40.
View 6 RepliesI own a 2003 VW Jetta 1.8T GL Model.
When in Idle the car starts to make a ticking noise and tends to get louder the longer it sits. On top of this the idle does seem louder than when I first got the car like a constant purring noise if that makes sense. I am only able to hear the ticking while in idle, but the purring noise is continuous even while driving. I'm not sure what the problem could be but have the necessary funds to make some repairs on my car though not tons.
My car currently has approximately 128,500 miles on the engine. I'd like to keep this car running for a long time.
I've searched but can't find what my problem is , ON idle when clutch is not depressed loud ticking noise , but when I push the clutch in it goes away . Also the ticking noise will get louder if I accelerate . ONLY Im first gear will I hear a loud grinding noise which means I have to quickly switch into second . Sound similar to something being dragged along a fence . Again the grinding sound I'm first will only happen if I'm giving it gas. Car has 325,000 km . Something with the transmission ?
View 1 RepliesMy VR6 is making a ticking sound when i accelerate, between 2800-3100, then it dies down a little and then gets loudest at about 3600-4000. The noise stops at exactly 4000rpms every time. Here is a sound clip of what the noise sounds like... you can hear it best in the last 15 seconds or so in the video. Maybe its the timing chains...
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MT 2500 Where are you I've got a weird one. 99 Chevy 5.7 dully dump truck. The engine cuts out while driving at 3000rpms only. If you keep your foot in it it goes away at 3200. Does it in any gear(auto). Also, stopped and in park, it will do it at 4000rpms. Acts like a rev limiter. Fuel pressure does not change (60-62psi) when this happens, does it in open or closed loop. I disconnected the maf and no change. I've installed new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, module(all original with 165K), no change. Runs sensational until 3K rpms.
View 14 RepliesDon't know if I'm experiencing the dreaded limp mode or not. It seems that SOMETIMES while just digging thru the gears 1-2-3, not hard, when I get to 3000 rpms it's like I'm taking my foot off the gas. Rpm drops from 3000 to 2500. It's like I'm losing boost or something. I have no mods and obviously, no boost gauge.
View 7 RepliesRanger often wants to idle at 2,500 to 3,000 rpm. I'm glad its got a clutch! This is a long term intermittent problem that is getting worse. I have replaced the the IAC twice. I have unplugged the IAC when the engine is in high idle and the engine idles normally. But, starting the car with the IAC unplugged makes car run rough. That makes me think the IAC is not getting the right voltage input from the pmc (eec). Mine is a 2002 with the 3.0 engine. Throttle plate seems to be closed.
What sense inputs does PMC use to determine idle air position? Also replaced TPS sometime ago but that didn't work either. Sometimes turning off the a/c will knock the idle back to normal but not always. Turning the car off completely usually resets idle. But the high idle comes right back after accelerating. Drove the car today and idle would stick and stay high when clutch pushed in coming to a light. However. as the car slowed to a stop the idle would come down when rolling 1-2 mph. ??
When the engine is in gears say 1-3 (doesn't seem to work in neutral or park) when the engine rev's to about 2500 - 3000 RPM there's a metallic vibrating noise that almost sounds like a buzzing/chattering sound. When you reach over 3000, it goes away.
Here's the curve ball - it stops doing this when the engine is really warm. It only seems to do it when cold or it's been sitting a while. So - it's limited to an RPM range between gears 1-3, it goes away when it's warm.
I am inclined to think this is related to engine mounts... And here's why. It seems to only happen when in gear and we know that the engine changes it's pitch/stance when in different gears versus in neutral/park. So I think when it's in gears 1-3, the engine is tilted a bit and something is coming into contact with something (maybe my strut bar) more than it used to due to more slop/movement from my worn out engine mounts. As to why it goes away when the engine is really hot (driven for an hour or so) is because maybe whatever it is that's coming into contact with something else is (perhaps a hose and its clamp?) is much more pliable while warm and clears whatever obstruction it was hitting while cold? (a lot of speculation and creative thinking here).
Anyway - after the engine is super warm and I've been driving it I cannot for the life of me get it to do it... It rev's super smooth and not a hint of any bad sound.... 2011 2.0T Limited ....