Golf IV R32 :: After Installation Of Clutch Rattles Harshly - Won't Shifting
Jun 14, 2013
So I have a issue at hand with a clutch I purchased and fly wheel. I bought a Spec Stg 2+ kit and fidanza lw flywheel. As soon as I installed it the rattle seemed a little harsh and would change noise levels every time I would engage and disengage it. Then the shifting became a issue about 1000 miles in not being able to get it into gear (thats what she said) the clutch felt spongy and not solid. So I just recently pulled it out (real men dont pull out). Everything looked fine...odd.
SO I contacted Spec and they told me after inspecting the pictures that the self adjusting pressure plate was mis-adjusted and stuck and needed to be put into a vice to release the springs to put it back to normal. Hence why I had bad shifting eventually etc. Had less than 10,000 miles on the set up...fml. Spec has been extremely useful but I do not have the funds to buy another clutch from them. So im debating on putting it back into my car after resetting the pressure plate or just getting another clutch kit from a different company. I was also told to just go back to the stock clutch and pressure plate with the fidanza flywheel
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We've got a new 2010 Santa Fe AWD LTD with about 2800km on it. About once or twice a week, under normal driving, we've noticed very harsh shifts. It seems to be the 2-3 shift and is around 40km/h. Just normal acceleration from a stop sign. And just recently a new issue. It seemed like it got stuck mid-shift...
I was accelerating slowly from a stop and on the 2-3 shift the engine revved up above 3000 as if it was in neutral. I eased off the gas and then it completed the shift. My wife took it into the dealer today, but I'm worried they'll send it back as "unreproducible" as we've only had about 1 problem for every 10 hours of driving. We'll see what they say. As you can imagine, I'm not very impressed that we're having these issues before our first oil change...
Somebody mentioned that maybe there's something sticking in the transmission and it builds up enough pressure and then finally makes the shift. But I'm not a transmission expert by any means...
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I've had my Golf for about two and a half weeks now. Since the first day, I noticed a soft rattle coming from the car wheel sitting in neutral with the clutch out. If I push the clutch in, it quiets down even further but is still existent. If it's in gear and under load no noise.
I bought the car with 48 miles on it IIRC.
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I have a 2010 GTI, and im curious as to how long a clutch CAN last.
This is my first manual car and i had a bit of a rough start the first 30 days. No stalls, just a little bit rough in shifting. Im a "Pro" now as in i dont shift rough, etc.
60-80,000?? Or way less?
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Last couple morning here in Michigan we've seen temps in the low to mid 30's. The last two mornings when I shift between 1, 2 & 3 I'm hearing a clicking noise coming from the clutch when engaging the gear. After a few minutes, once it warms up, the clicking goes away.
I am @ stage 1+ W/VWR intake, but I'm not expecting clutch troubles from that.
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I know some of us drag race our cars from time to time. I have a fair bit of bolt ons and I was just wondering what I would run so I had her out 3x yesterday. Impressed with my trap speed of almost 100mph on an 85-degree day w a stock intercooler but not my times, so much so that I don't even want to say them.
I was shifting a little after redline as quick as possible and leaving at like 3000-4000 rpm.
Is my clutch slipping or where am I going wrong?
the suspension is mostly stock as are mounts. I am sure I will get better with practice but this was a really sticky track so I really cant blame my tires
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I have about 350 miles on my new jetta and i will like to know if its just me or did everyone with a manual go through the same, i feel that up shifting at higher rpms like 4k i feel like the clutch is grinding i actually feel it in the pedal, I haven't gone higher than 4k due to break in period. I also notice that there is no engage while getting out of first almost like its slipping but it is not, i have driven manual most of my life so i know i am not slipping the clutch.
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noticing a few issues with my 2003 jetta 2.0 when driving/shifting....so first main thing I noticed is when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear often times it will make a grinding sound and not shift smoothly from 1st to 2nd....you have to do it real slow/gingerly ...if I short shift from neutral to 2nd its fine or if down shifting to 2nd its fine...I have changed the gear oil...other sounds idk if its my tranny or engine but if going up hill and you throw into 3rd and not going fast enough its makes a rattling sound and is sluggish I know its a old car 177,000 miles so idk just curious if this is a sign of problems?....Last thing after driving and getting home and putting into reverse gear to park it makes a noise like a chugging sound when reversing and can be finicky going into reverse.
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I have an 04 Accord EXV6 with 237K miles. I have recently replaced shock absorber assemblies and all 6 motor mounts / transmission mounts, which resolved most of the loud "clunking" noises. However, I now have more of a "rattle" sound which I hear when one of three things happens...First, when the engine is started (typically when the engine is cold). Secondly, when shifting between park, reverse, and drive (also, more common when engine is cold). Lastly, when driving over rough roads or potholes at slow speed. The sound is the same in each of the 3 conditions, and appears to be coming from the right side. It doesn't seem to me that any bushings, control arms. etc. would be the cause since the same sound is heard during startup or gear shifting while the car is sitting still.
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Bought a 2009 Chevy HHR with 35,000 miles in July, 2010. In the summer of 2011 the ignition was replaced, as the key would not turn. (The engine was running at the time. It was necessary to disconnect the battery to turn off the engine.) At 55,000 miles the transmission suffered "catastrophic failure" and the entire transmission assembly was replaced. (The engine light never came on, although the transmission was slipping frequently.) After driving the car with the new transmission between 100 and 200 miles, the engine light came on. The error code indicated a faulty transmission fluid pressure switch. The transmission changed gears harshly at times and the automatic door locks stopped working properly. Sometimes they would lock when the car was taken out of "park" and sometimes not. Likewise, they would not always unlock when the transmission was put in "park." After replacing the switch, the technician said that for no reason the security light came on briefly as did the passenger airbag "on" indicator light. Once again, after having driven between 100 and 200 miles, the engine light is on again, and gears are sometimes changing harshly. No diagnosis yet. Do I need an exorcist?
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I have an intermittent issue where the tiggy seems to downshift harshly to 1st when coming to a stop while in D. Almost like dropping the clutch but not enough to chirp the tires - just enough to feel a thump. I figure it's related to the engine braking "feature" of this car but doing it incorrectly. It seems as though once it's happening, it stays like that for a while, but the next day for example, it will be fine.
I've been observing it for some time now and it doesn't seem temperature specific. In fact, I have a hunch it might be electronic even since if I turn off ESC it stops occurring. Turning off brake auto-hold doesn't make a difference either (this is turned off automatically if ESC is shut off).
I hate taking my car into the dealer for intermittent issues... they are notorious at dismissing something if it doesn't happen right then and there in front of their face. Thought maybe I should check the forums incase their's a TSB or something to fix this exact issue or if it's just unique to my tig.
2010 (build date 8/09) 4motion SE btw, w/ 5k miles
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Having issues with speed sensors on the transmission in their 2012 Elantra? My Elantra has 201K km. Transmission will intermittently shift harshly or sluggishly between all gears. If I turn the vehicle off and restart it it will go back to normal, sometimes for weeks at a time before another occurrence. Also after long periods of driving when the vehicle comes to a stop, say for instance at a red light, when brakes are applied the car will gently lunge forward or flutter. No engine codes.
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Im tentative to take the gti into service for a window rattle/rub because I know they will pull everything off the door and cause more rattles in resolving the window issue.
However, the issue is when the windows are all the way up or almost all the way up there is this "rubbing" noise, not really a rattle, coming from the top corner of the windows.
Its almost like they are forcing themselves up to far and creaking over every bump in the road. Its loud enough (and close enough to my ears) that its pretty damn annoying.
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On my 2 door GTI, I had 2 rattles. One was coming from the door latch mechanism, and the other was coming from the black plastic b pillar trim. I picked up a can of "Blaster" silicon spray from Home Depot and sprayed just a little bit into the latching mechanism (on the door side). So far this has completely eliminated the knocking noise that I would hear in the door when driving over bumps.
On my drive afterwards, I kept hearing the infamous noise from the b-pillar trim, which seems to be a result of heat expansion when going from cold temp.... how the piece would sit there creaking when the car wasn't even moving. Anyways, I sprayed some of the silicon lube onto a q-tip and applied it to the edge of the plastic b-pillar trim that runs along the inside edge of the door. I guess I put enough on the q-tip to get it inside the edge of the plastic where it touches the metal of the door.
So far, my car is quiet as a mouse. It feels so good to have my car sound like the day I drove it off the lot!
Disclaimer: It could be a coincidence and perhaps the b-pillar had finally warmed up to a temp where it stopped creaking on its own, but it DID stop creaking as soon as I drove off after applying the lube. I'll post back if anything changes.
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Have the APR RSC exhaust - developed rattles, specifically in one of the RSC muffler chambers?
I've had my exhaust installed for almost 6 months. About 2-3 months ago, I noticed a rattle from under the car somewhere. I finally got underneath the car a few weeks ago to check it out and the rattle is most definitely coming from the rear RSC muffler (right before the exhaust tips). I'm positive that's the source and I'm guessing that the welds inside for the baffles / walls that compose the RSC technology failed, and a piece is now rattling around inside. It only rattles at low RPM, but it's loud (especially in a parking garage) and super embarrassing.
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Having problem with sunroof when it's popped up to just vent? It rattles LOUD! Least little bump... not sure what to do? 2012 GTI.
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So I finally decided to look into all the little creaks and rattles that the R makes while going over bumps in the road.
-Wrapped the latches of the rear seats in electrical tape, and put adhesive velcro (soft side) on the back of the seats where it meets plastic.
-Took apart the center console and put adhesive felt around the areas where plastic makes contact with other plastic
-Put adhesive felt inside the aluminum trim & Monsoon radio to stop shaking
So all those little fixes eliminated most of the rattling sounds in the car. All that I need to look into are the driver and passenger doors to secure whatever is rattling/shaking inside those panels. Something to do this coming week. I normally would leave these noises alone, but damn they drive me crazy like it's a form of Chinese water torture. I hope to have no more rattles in the following week.
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I have noticed as it gets colder, my car rattles more. I keep hearing random rattles, mainly in the door panels. Looking for remedy apart from going up to the dealership?
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I have a non resonated exhaust and when I get on the gas, the spindle that holds down the spare tire in the hatch rattles like crazy. It is so loud. I have tried removing the spare tire and also removing the cap that holds down the spare tire. Nothing works.
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Had my original clutch replaced by mechanic. Had 200K on it. Car clutch petal vibrates badly when bringing clutch pedal out after shifting. Mechanic states it has to do with motor mounts that were affected when changing clutch or the clutch takes time to seal and stop vibrating in the next 500 miles. I have warranty for 12 months and 12,000 miles. Which I had no problem of vibration before having clutch replaced? What is the problem and how to proceed.
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When I bought my ranger used, the clutch felt ok. But as a couple weeks had passed, it started to get hard to shift. The clutch doesn't slip at all so a friend of mine said there might be air in the system.
I would pump the clutch pedal a few times and then it would shift ok for a while, then back to shifting hard. I found the bleeder and had my son assist me with bleeding the system. Everything was fine at first but I made a big mistake and now i have no pedal feel at all.
My mistake was i didn't realize what I thought was the reservoir was not the actual reservoir. There was a black rubber thing in the reservoir that I filled with fluid. My mistake was I needed to take out this black rubber thing.
So now i am stuck with no pedal and don't know what to do. When I pulled out the black rubber thing, the reservoir was empty so i filled it and it bubbled for a second and then stopped. Tried pedal at this point and there is no feel at all. It just goes to floor with no effort.
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