However, my fuel pump seems to be having a small issue intermittently. So I was wondering if you can upgrade the fuel pump without upgrading anything else? Is that acceptable or would it mess things up? I plan on getting the DTM kit in the future.
View 3 RepliesR's at the dealer today for a faulty fuel float sensor, and they just called to let me know my vehicle has the wrong fuel pump in it. Seems mine has the pump for the Golf/Rabbit with the 4 cylinder engine and they need to keep the car until the part is in.
View 16 RepliesI recently had my fuel pump replaced in my 2005 GTI ... twice. Both times, the fuel gauge no longer shows a full tank, and doesn't show empty tank correctly. Is there some way to reset the gauge? Is the pump somehow tied to the gauge, or did the mechanics mess the float up when they changed the pump? Sadly I had it repaired somewhere other then the dealer.
View 1 RepliesRecently I bought a aem fuel pump only to find out it was for a vr6... go figure. so i said no big deal took it off and put my old one back on. Everything worked fine before now but now that i have put the old fuel pump back in i am not getting any fuel at all.
View 6 RepliesI need to test the stock fuel pump. Best way of doing so?
View 8 RepliesMy R32's Fuel Pump Fuse keeps blowing. This started after driving my car in a bad rainstorm. I think water may have gotten in the door which could be causing the short, but I am not sure. This car has two fuel pumps as it's been modified. I know for a fact the main fuel pump works as it did prime after replacing the fuse (then letting the car sit over night then opening the door). Right after the fuel pump primed though, the fuse blew. I decided to replace the fuse and start the car. The car started and ran for maybe a second or two before the fuse blew. I took a look at this thread in regards to the fuel pump not working as I thought the fuel pump was dead till today. I was wondering what are the possible problems that could be causing the fuse to blow? Could it be the relay? Could it be the switch in the door shorting? Also, where would I find the relay? I know it's under the dash, but is it under the panel on the passenger side or driver side?
View 1 RepliesSo lately have had few symptoms of fuel pump going out and all that but tonight randomly wouldn't start and I mean no power, no lights, no turn over, no anything like my key fob won't even set my alarm or unlock car is this another symptom.
View 12 RepliesMy R is garage kept, and every morning when I open the door, I can hear the fuel pump make a quick priming run. Well, not "every morning"; sometimes it doesn't do it's two second prime, and when that happens the car usually takes two cranks to start.
(I know that there is a timer. If you have been driving the car, shut the car off, close the door, and then open it, it is not going to prime, but I'm talking about after the car has been sitting all night.) This issue could be related to my door-lock-craziness issue.
If the fuel pump in the right rear of the car is making an audible noise, does that mean it is the incorrect fuel pump, or is that normal?
View 2 RepliesSo last night I was on my way home, was going through 2nd gear when all of a sudden my car sputtered and just died. It will keep cranking but just won't run. I have a SE 6MT. Had it for 4 months and almost 11,000 miles on it. Tow it to the dealer today, they went through the car and determined it's the fuel pump and will be replaced under warranty.
View 2 RepliesAt only 51,200 miles, it looks like my fuel pump is starting to go bad. Making way much more "noise" than usual.Guess this is what happens when you drive around with the gas tank on "E" half the time. $262 at 1st VW Parts.
View 5 RepliesCurrent issue: fuel pump stays on and has drained battery. I do know the door switch has been acting up with the usual symptoms (automatic locking at inappropriate times, lights not coming on, etc.). I know the fuel pump will often not start because of faulty door switch, but I've not heard of it causing the pump to run continuously. I haven't found much in search.
View 1 RepliesI have about 500 miles on my 2008 R32, and today I noticed while sitting in the car with it running that there was a noticeable buzzing coming from the fuel pump. It sounds like it is coming from the pump under the tank itself. Hear this coming through to the cabin? Rather loud, I wonder if this issue has already been reported with other 3.2 VR6 setups.
View 22 RepliesI dont know if this is an issue, but here goes. You know the fuel pump prime sound when you open the drivers door? The buzz? It has recently stopped. Should I be concerned? Is this a foreshadowing of hard times to come? Or am I just over analyzing?
View 12 RepliesSo after a long trip from my vacation I ended up running over a dead deer on my 2004 VW Jetta GLI 1.8T AWP. As soon as I hit the car turned off. I was looking around to see what the damage was and everything looked intact but my car still wouldn't turn on. I checked some things and came to the conclusion that there was no fuel running to the engine (whenever the key would be on the "ON" position the fuel pump didn't make the usual "whirring" sound meaning it was on).
So I checked the fuel pump fuse, that was good but when I checked if there was current in the fuse, there wasn't. Then I disconnected the fuel pump to see if there was current going through the connector and there wasn't. This led me to check the fuel pump relay. Relay looked good and when I checked to see if there was current going through to the relay, there wasn't. So my issue is that the car is not turning on because there is no current going through to the fuel pump and no current to the relay and fuse.
So I moved my Walbro to the engine bay and reran my wires. Now I couldn't find the most detailed DIY to use for reference but I ran a 20A circuit breaker from terminal 75x under the dash. From there an inline relay that I believe is hooked up correctly.
So I noticed my fuel pump wasn't running while the car is running. It wasn't even priming so I started checking connections and what not. I then noticed that when my power wire is connected to the pump I only read about 4V on the pump. If I disconnect the line and test it with no load applied I get 12-13V steady.
I thought maybe my pump had gone bad but if I apply 12v straight to it it runs just fine.
So my question is WTF!? Electronically this doesn't make sense. Physically it makes no sense. I moved the wires from one side of the car to the other. Nothing changed. Why would I be losing so much voltage with the load applied?
Long story short, my car died on me shortly after pulling out of the driveway a few weeks ago. Initially I thought it was my fuel pump because it wasn't priming when I had the key turned to the "ON" position. Here's what I know for sure:
The fuel pump works. It was tested and is not the issue. The relay is good.
The fuse from number 28 is good. There isn't any power at the fuse. The shop has been tracing wires and looking at diagrams and cannot find any breaks in any wires.
The ECU has been swapped for another one. When I turn the key to the "ON" position, the check engine light and EPC light come on, then turn off after about 3 seconds. They do not stay on.
What else could it be? Car in question is an 01 Jetta 1.8T AWD motor code.
This car now has 6k miles .
A lot of people including me, has fuel pump failure. That's not bad you say..and no it's not if that was the only problem. When it fails, all metal particles that are shredded inside travel through your whole fuel system. Your fuel tank, your fuel lines, etc. Basically everything from your fuel tank to your fuel injectors. They replaced close to 50 parts on a brand new car!!!
When this happens, the car stalls completely which is now a safety issue! Imagine driving 2 kids on a highway and your car shuts off, giving you very limited braking (IF ANY) and steering!
1999 Jetta 2.0L manual trans
One day out of the blue the car would not crank or start. Checked and found that fuse #14 was blown and would blow the instant another fuse was inserted. Checked all the typical locations for wiring issues usually associated with the comfort module because it had all the symptoms of a faulty module (the power windows did not work and the fuel pump didn't pressurize the system when the driver door was opened, the alarm didn't set, automatic door locks also inoperable).
I checked the dome light, trunk hinges, rubber boot between doors and body and found nothing. Put a jumper wire into the neutral start relay and was able to crank the car. I then replaced clutch safety switch, neutral start relay and installed new (junkyard) comfort module and the car cranked up, started and everything was working normally again...for about 3 weeks. Then it did the exact same thing again. Fuse #14 was blown again and would blow the new fuse as soon as it touched the terminals in the fuse box.
I reinstalled the jumper wire in the start relay in order to be able to drive the car for the last week, and then last night out of the blue the car would crank, but not start. I turned the engine over several times and could hear the fuel pump pumping and even smell fuel, but no start. 3-5 minutes later after random tries to start, the car stumbles to life as if it wasn't getting fuel, and then drove 10 miles home with no issues. I returned the 'faulty' comfort module Monday and got another one but haven't installed it yet because I fear the same thing happening with this one as the other one.
Last night after I got the car home, I plugged in the comfort module and everything worked like it was supposed to. Can a faulty fuel pump damage the control module? I'm trying to get to the bottom of this and fix the problem and not the symptoms so I'm looking into anything that could potentially cause the problem.
There is a noticeable whining sound coming from the back of my car. I searched and the closest thread I could find talks about whining at speed, but this is happening even at idle. From outside the car it is much louder. It goes away sometimes, but comes back pretty quickly. I restarted the car at a red light and the noise stopped, but by the next light it was back. Seems to be happening at speed, too, although that's harder to hear over the sound of the car.
Pulled codes, and the code P310b keeps coming back, even after cleared. The car has had a dead battery for probably the last 6 weeks, and was restarted two days ago, maybe 100-150 miles since restart, plenty of warm up and cool down cycles, but the code keeps coming back. I never noticed the sound before I let the car sit, and I didn't notice it yesterday while I was driving it around (although maybe I just had the music too loud???)
APR Stage 3, APR LPFP.
1- Does is sound like this could be the low pressure fuel pump?
2- Do I need to be concerned?
Its a 2005 awp 1.8t gti with 180K stage 2 apr. When i tune the key to the accessories on position I used to hear the fuel pump priming but now I don't and the car wont start.
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