Golf IV R32 :: Car Lurched After Dropping The Clutch
May 5, 2011
Last night pulling out of a gas station I gave the R some gas and dropped the clutch. The car lurched me into the street but then the RPM just climbed while in gear. Shifted to second, same thing. After a couple of seconds it finally caught and started driving normally.
The whole way home I smelled horrible organic-ness yet didn't feel anymore slipping. To do another test, I have a large hill to climb going into my apartment complex. I went ahead and turned off the traction control and went at it, everything went fine, AWD kicked in and clutch held.
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I started having issues with my clutch pedal "dropping out" from under my foot. Not necessarily during a shift. It still works but will stay down towards the bottom of the travel and after either lifting with my toe or pressing it a few times it kicks back up and usually stays up. Is this my clutch dieing? or something hydraulic related? Hoping I don't have to replace clutch. Searched R32 forum for anything similar and couldn't find anything.
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About 2-3 months ago I noticed that whenever I would push the clutch in and let the revs drop, they would drop below the 800 rpm mark and the car would automatically rev them back up to prevent from stalling. This usually happens when I am slowing to come to a stop, like coming down an off-ramp or to a stop light. Then one night after a 45 minute steady speed highway drive, I pushed the clutch in, shifted to neutral and let the clutch out and coasted to a stop. As the revs dropped, the engine stalled completely and the red alternator warning light came on. While still rolling on the highway, I pushed and held the start/stop button and it immediately started back up.
Over the last 6 weeks, this has become more frequently. It is now at a point where the revs will pretty much always drop below 800 rpm when I slow down and the car usually revs them back. However, I have had six more stall episodes like the one above and it is starting to scare me about driving. I find myself revving the engine when I coast in neutral to slow down to prevent this from happening. This happens either with the clutch depressed and gear engaged and slowing or clutch out and in neutral gear.
The car has never had issues. I am the sole owner. Just coming up on 30,000 miles. I currently have UM tune stage 2, EVOMS intake, APR HPFP, 42DD downpipe with stock cat-back exhaust, HPA short shifter with metal cable bushings, Stoptech Street rotors and pads, VWR springs and RSR clutch, which was installed at about 22,000 miles one year ago. Have serviced it religiously, oil changes every 5,000 miles, did the water pump recall and had no issues thus far.
I moved from high-elevation Utah to New Hampshire last summer. The tune and calibration were all done in Utah prior to the move. These symptoms/issues beginning and getting worse coincided with the cold winter and lots of snow were are having. Could that and the tune having been calibrated at another elevation have anything to do with this?
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So I just recently had to take my 2010 Golf TDI into the shop to replace the mechanics unit. Took them a while to get the unit installed but overall I was happy. The car was driving perfect for about 2-3 months. Then all of a sudden the transmission starting violently surging and dropping the clutch again. I thought the mech unit was going bad again in less than 5K miles. I couldn't get the car in the shop until about 3-4 days after and I did drive the car there because the surging was manageable. It did kick the car into safe mode when the dsg appeared to overheat. It turns out there was a leak from the gasket. They are fixing it now free of charge but it looks like they messed up.
The issue is now I am afraid of any damage that may have been caused to the mech/clutch form the fluid getting low. Should I be worried about this and if so what should I do? I would think the shop should be responsible for any damage done to the car.
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I have an '01 Elantra 5 speed. Been great for 3 years. Replaced the clutch at 169000 km and it's been going really well.
It now has 186000 and just recently the gear shift lurched to the left (I did not notice exactly when it happened) but when I tried to shift down to 2nd it was noticeably more difficult to select. Selecting 1st or 2nd has become more difficult ever since.
It is certainly visible that the shift has moved because when 3rd is selected it looks like 1st is selected. I'm guessing a mounting bolt for the shift may have broken or dislodged.
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Grill blocked today for the first time and have a couple questions.
Temps have been dropping more these last 3-4 days and have noticed my MPG dropping as well so I thought I'd try grill blocking.
Tempts have been and will be high 30s-low 40s in the morning and upper 50s to mid 60s for the high.
At first I just wedged the pipe insulation and drove one trip. I didn't feel comfortable that it would hold for the long haul so I added zip ties.
I used two pieces of pipe insulation 1/2 inch copper / 3/8 inch iron. Up close it looks like 2/3 or 3/4 of the grill is covered.
My two questions:
For fWT, at what temperature should it not exceed?
At what outside temperature should I remove the pipe insulation? In the Phoenix area, temperatures rise in March and sometimes we will have a short period of warmer than normal temps in February. I just want to make sure I do not cause overheating.
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My coolant level keeps dropping really low underhood and the light comes on on the dash, but I went and bought coolant, opened the hood, and the level was back to normal. Where is it all going? Should I add any when it's low if it's coming back? This just seems weird.
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So I was installing my head spacer. When i got the head off I noticed the upper two timing chain rails were shot. The tensioner rail has wear marks from the chain and a small crack in it. Is it possible to change these upper two rails without dropping the transmission?
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What would make a clutch switch keep going out? I've replaced it 3 times in the past year and at this point I'm pretty sure it's not bad switches. I currently have a UM NA tune with launch control which obviously doesn't work when the switch goes bad.
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Just bought my first r 32 recently , had previously owned a 20th anniversary GTI, anyway guy i bought the car from mentioned the awd system was not working , recently was driving and clutch would not go into gear in addition to the haldex or awd not functioning . The clutch also kinda "stuck" to the floor .. Also I noticed some fluid on the undercarriage the day I brought it home . I'm pretty sure the car was beat on but there aren't many available up this way , and honestly I know I'm prob gonna spend some to get her road worthy again , Also felt like the car was operating in rwd for some reason and traction control light is on.
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I've had my Golf for about two and a half weeks now. Since the first day, I noticed a soft rattle coming from the car wheel sitting in neutral with the clutch out. If I push the clutch in, it quiets down even further but is still existent. If it's in gear and under load no noise.
I bought the car with 48 miles on it IIRC.
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Since taking delivery I noticed right away that the clutch was too low (almost to the floor to engage). How do I go about adjusting the height a little higher?
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I just had a new clutch installed yesterday. Bully stg3 with flywheel. My 2012 R has 22k. I had to change it since my stock clutch was slipping at 3000rpm with the Unitronic stg1+.
The second I start the car and stay on neutral, give a little gas I hear a super loud grinding noise. It stop when I press the clutch. On idle I don`t hear nothing and when I drive everything is fine until I release the clutch and when I don`t press the gas.
The shop said they never heard anything that loud and they confirm that everything was installed correctly. Other then the noise the clutch is fine and works very well.
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Ok I have this problem now on my R .... the dealership replaced the whole clutch kit under warranty and I picked up
the car on monday morning at first everything felt ok until I had to reverse I felt a slight shudder but didn't think
much of it as the clutch only then did about 10km's ... The clutch is fine in all the other gears no shudder no slipping nothing it's only when you reverse that you can feel it. What this could be ?
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My mother In law's a/c is not working. Last year I replaced the compressor, fcm, and pressure sensor and nothing. Well fast forward a year and I'm here again trying to sort it out. I unplugged the connector to the compressor and there is 2 black wires 1 wire has 6 volts (not 12v) and the others reads nothing. When I turn the A/C on the fans do come on.
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So i have a 05 1.8t gti... just bought it about 3 months ago and it has a stage 2 south bend clutch... the car has only 68k on it and the clutch is slipping already... it was driving fine then about a week ago all hell broke loose and it's slipping bad... now for my question what performance clutch is recommended? I have a giac tune and its pushing about 21 boost... . would a 2.0 performance clutch work on the 1.8t?..
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Car: 2012 Mk6 Golf R
Mileage: 43,000 km
Software: UM stage 2 loaded
Related mods:
- diesel geek short shifter
- Emmanuel design, Sachs SRE stage 2 SMf clutch kit
- Tyrol sport deadest rigid collar kit (probably not related)
Background info:
Clutch installed at 40k km.
0-500km stop and go traffic
500-505km punched it bc a 350Z pissed me off*
506-1200km highway and not very aggressive twisters
1200-3000km hwy and city mix
First 0-500km I babied the clutch. No issue
501-505km I punched it a bit hard. Felt great. No issue
506-1200km hwy there, no issue. Closer to the 1200km mark the issue surfaced
1200-3000km was able to repeat the issue and adjusted diesel geek ss and re-bled the clutch in attempt to resolve it
Issue:
- from dead stop, 1st gear gets locked in at 2-4k rpm
- either I rev up beyond 4k, drop below 2k rpm to unlock it
- if I man handle n yank it out of 1st, gears grind
- only happens when the car is fully warmed up and fully running at optimal temperature for at least 10-15 minutes
- diesel geek ss readjustment
- re-bled the clutch (no topping off the clutch lines)
Issue was improved, however, I'm experiencing this locking issue again. Less frequent and less predictable. Attempted to replicate the issue, only happens if it's stop and go traffic-jam speed. Was unable to focus on an rpm range.
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I've been noticing that when I step on it some times my clutch pedal seems to get stiff and if I press on it a couple times its normal again. This has been going on for awhile now and I've just been driving it normal but when I do decide to get on it then the pedal will get stiff..
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My car just cuts off sometimes when coming to a stop while in manual mode. It's like the clutch is stuck and it stalls out.
I ran vagcom thinking it might be dsg related but it came up fine. I do however have this....
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So long story short, my clutch is not disengaging all of the way, but only sometimes.... I have replaced clutch, flywheel, slave cylinder, new stainless steel clutch line and new clutch master cylinder all within this month. The same issue has been occurring prior to replacing all of this and also after replacing all of this. I've bled the system (with a power bleeder) more times than you can count on both of your hands so there is no way there is air in the system.
More details : The clutch doesn't slip in any gear. Stop and go traffic in first gear is really the only time I notice it not disengaging. I can't pull it out of 1st gear when it happens so I have to shut the car off to get it out of first gear. When it's stuck in first gear with the clutch pushed in (on a flat surface) and I let off of the brake the car creeps forward. Not at full speed like if I were to release the clutch pedal all the way but its still semi engaged enough to make the car move.
Replacing everything theoretically should have fixed all issues, but it hasn't. The only thing I didnt replace was this piece of the factory clutch line.
Tomorrow I am going to take the stainless steel clutch line and run it straight to the clutch master cylinder bypassing that weird silver box and hope that fixes it. As a side question what does that silver box do anyways?
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Well the clutch started slipping finally, not sure if it was the weather change on the drive from here to PA but I slip 5 and 6th wot 4-5k rpms. Have some coin set away because I knew it was going to happen sooner or later did some searching and I'm curious to here the verdict on the RSR clutch how many miles and how its holding up as well as whatever else you are running. Will probably keep the car 2+ for quite a while so not really worried about 3+ power.
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