Golf IV R32 :: Engine Stall At Highway Speed Only When It Is Wet / Raining Outside
Apr 17, 2013
I've recently started having a problem where the car will die/engine stall when going highway speed (60-70mph), but only when it is wet/raining outside. I retain electrics/radio, but it seems that the engine just turns off. I get no response from the throttle, the rpms just drop and drop. The last instance, it died on me when I started to apply throttle to speed up from coasting at 60mph in 6th.
If I try to restart the car, it will fire up every time, but will die on the rpm downswing after it first fires up. However, if I give the car revs and maintain them (4-5k rpm) when starting, it stays alive and I can drive away. I've even done this during the last instance where the car died and I restarted while coasting at 40mph. I gave it gas on the restart and drove away and the car resumed completely normal operation.
I got codes relating to the throttle body, misfires, and even a bad ECM! However, the next day when things dried up, it ran completely normal, and continues to every day it is dry.
Again, this only happens when its wet/raining out. I popped open the hood and the top of the engine and ecu/raintray seem dry. However, I do not have a belly pan. Also, the car is VF Stage 2 with the air filter in the passenger bumper area, but it is running the plastic shroud around it.
I will try troubleshooting by having the car at idle and spraying water in different spots in/around/under the engine bay to see if I can reproduce the issue.
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I was driving to work last night and too many things went wrong simultaneously leaving my MK4 stranded.
2000 Jetta 2.0
185,000
Automatic
No check engine lights or warnings
-The engine sounded like there was a hole in the exhaust at highway speed. There wasn't because it's a new system
-Low coolant light came on. The flange connector at the firewall was torn off resulting in a stream of coolant pouring out
-It was dark but the engine almost seemed cockeyed by a degree or two
-Upon parking, the motor. sounded "clunky". Driving forward seemed OK. When shifting into reverse there was a pronounced clunk and the drivetrain wasn't happy.
-I turned the ignition off and that was the last time the car started. It turns over now but will not fire up. The video I attached is my last attempt at starting it before giving up.
My car is my job and I'm at a total loss on how to proceed???
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I travel highway daily at 70+mph and it's pretty annoying, nothing the radio won't fix but sometimes I like to have a conversation with passengers and find myself talking over it.
I have a 2DR Base, MFD 04/12.
I've tried the vinyl tubing thing and that did nothing. Had the dealer look at it when it was in for the service and they said it was "within spec", I stopped up there today and tried looking up any TSB's with the service advisor and most of the ones we found were for the GTI. My issue starts about 60-70 mph and gets worse the faster you go. The noise sounds like it's coming from the top of the window - almost like the window is cracked about 1/8".
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If i speed onto the highway from 3rd gear it turns on ASR light and wont turn off until i turn car off. I just replaced MAF month or so ago with a cheap ebay one. If that has anything to do with it. 2003 MkIV 1.8T ...
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My DSG Autobahn 4 dr with 4800 miles has developed a humming and vibration at highway speeds and my dealer and I are stumped as to what it is. I don't really hear the humming until 60mph+ but then its a 1 second pulsing hum coming from the front of the car and I can feel some vibration through the pedals and floor board.
The dealer has checked all wheel bearings and actually replaced the passenger side front bearing. They have also rotated all the tires and one rim that was slightly bent was swapped with another wheel but this did nothing to eliminate the sound. I'm waiting for my dealer to get back to me of when a VW engineer would be available to have go at it.
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1994 celica GT 2.2L
Just happened last night, i was driving on the highway when i noticed my temp needle was reading about a 1/4 of an inch higher than normal. That's never happened before. It's always been rock steady right in the middle. I was doing about 80 miles an hour. i slowed down to about 65 and the needle went back to the middle. I sped up to 70 and the needle went back up again. So i slowed down again and it went back down.
Tonight i was on the highway again, but due to the freezing rain and hail, i was doing between 40 and 60. Tonight the Gauge never moved from the middle. It was steady all the way until i got on the off ramp at the light, Then it went up and came back down by itself. I didn't hear the fans come on. I went to a local parking lot to do some tests. I parked the car (gauge was in the middle), and reved the engine to raise the temperature. It went up and then came down. Fans did not come on. Strange. I them went back to my house. parked the car, put the hood up and tried to make the fans some on. Here's where it gets interesting...
while in my drive way, the needle goes up, both fans come on high speed, needle drops. I then tried to do it again. Reved the engine for a second, i hear both fans come on high speed, but the needle is in the middle. It did the same thing again with the needle in middle again.
There are no external leaks. engine oil is full. Both fans work, but on high. There is no debris covering the radiator. I replaced the thermostat around april 2011,( it was not a genuine toyota part and didn't have jiggle valve. is that ok? it's been fine all this time.) Timing belt and water pump have not been replaced (so i've been told).
Tomorrow i will check the coolant in the radiator, ignition timing, and check the radiator cap. What are the odds of it being the cooling fan switch or a relay? i only ask because it hasn't come on low speed since this happened. Will warm car up in drive way and see tomorrow.
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My fathers truck starts, runs, idles fine but once on the highway at constant speed, the engine misfires or hesitates causing a small buck or jerk but continues on down the road. The SES light is on. He took it to O'Reilly and they put some kind of computer on it and (I think) it said misfire in a cylinder. He replaced one of four O2 sensors, pickup in the distributor (not sure what this is called), wires, and plugs with no cure. This problem is very strange as again, it only does it a constant speed; truck runs fine at idle, acceleration, deceleration, startup, etc. There may be a slight sulfur smell during idle and there is a decrease in gas mileage.
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Last week I posted about dropping my car off for service and the dealer finding that all four of my wheels were bent, causing vibration at highway speeds. So I spent a couple hundred dollars and had them fixed.
Car still vibrates at highway speeds...
I feel the vibration in my seat and throughout the car at about 60+mph. The faster I go, the more noticeable it is. I can even hear it.
Dropped off at the shop. Shop called me back stating that the vibrations are being caused by the two tires that need to be replaced.
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Wife driving R with around 1,800 miles. Car build date 10/12; engine build date 10/19/12.
Car shuts off at highway speed; red steering wheel indicator is illuminated (not flashing) indicating power steering failure. No gauges, radio, other electrics work. I know about the "electromechanical" power steering set up, but is this the cause or the result of a possible water pump failure?
Car was just towed to dealer; dealer said they will diagnose in the morning.
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I've been traveling on the highway a lot lately for work and it seems like whenever I put my 2006 Prius on cruise speed at around 72-76 MPH, engine noise is through the roof. Now I understand that Prius has a small engine compared to my stronger Camry, but I was wondering to know about highway speed and RPM's for 2nd Gen Prius?
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My truck is a 1997 nissan pickup with. 254,000 miles. Check engine light come on. Only when I am at highway speed. As long as I am in city traffic, nothing I have a code scanner code (PO302) number 2 cylinder misfiring. I change spark plugs and wires and dist cap. But check engine light came back on. I put in shop they claim that they can't find nothing wrong. I guess I need to find a new mechanic.
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I have an 04 Elantra GT and have been noticing a jerkiness when driving at a constant speed on the highway. I haven't noticed it around town or while accelerating. I also have noticed that when I disengage the clutch on the highway, the engine sometimes doesn't respond right away, or it even may surge. This has happened when exiting the highway when I disengage the clutch. The engine will slow, then speed up close to 3000 rpms.
I also had a check engine light come on and couple months ago. The code indicated that the upstream O2 sensor was bad. I took it out and cleaned it, but didn't replace it. Is this a likely culprit for this set of symptoms? If so, how can I test the sensor to be sure? I heard that I could disconnect it and run the car and see if the surging lessens, but wasn't sure if that was a good thing to do.
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Ok, so I was driving normal highway speeds and all of a sudden, I realize a major drop in power. I pull over and restart it and it changes nothing. Now when I floor it, it takes 20-30 seconds to get to 90K.
I checked the air filter... Nothing. Used a code reader... Nothing. Then I decided to pressure test the cylinders... Nothing, except now the check engine light is on.
The Ol Dub is still drivable, but it is extremely slow and rough at idle. I am thinking it might be a MAF or fuel filter.
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I have a '97 4.6L 4x4. I've had a few issues recently and am at wits end.
Symptoms: while pulling a boat at highway speed, the engine engine just died. After waiting about 20 minutes for a buddy to show up with a tow rope, it started up and ran fine...until I got home (10 miles). I parked and after approx 5 minutes of idling it died again. No CEL, and found no codes when scanned. 15 minutes pass, it fires up and works fine.
The next day, I hook the boat up again, dive to the lake, go fishing, drive home. Everything was fine. I unhook the boat and drive to work. Half way there my voltage gauge starts falling and 5 miles later all of my gauges end electric stuff dies. I drive two more miles to work and strange beep starts coming from under the dash on the passenger side (I think). After my 12 hour shift it starts and I start my 10 mile commute. Half way through I lose electrical power again but make it home. Now it doesn't have the juice to turn over.
Are these problems related, and what are the possible causes and cures? On an unrelated note, what's the easiest way to replace a rear leaf spring shackle?
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So far from reading up here is my list:
1) Water pump.
Its not leaking or making noise at this time.
2) Clutch clicking at initial travel.
Noticed this on the first couple miles.
3) Smelly A/C.
This is ongoing
4) Wind noise from doors at highway speed.
Noticed this also
5) Wastegate rattle
Don't hear any rattle, or I am not narrowing down the sound when it happens.
Anything else I should add?
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2000 neon automatic. My wife was complaining about the rpms jumping around when on the highway going about 65mph. The rpms are around 3000 and jump very slightly up and down and you can hear the engine tone change when it happens. Checked tran fluid and it was low about 3/4 of a quart and added some fluid, changed spark plugs and wires and the problem is still there. Doesn't happen all the time. She says it seems to only do this if the car has been sitting for a few hours or longer. There is an code for the downstream sensor which needs to be changed.
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Last year I had the coil packs changed under warranty, it corrected a bad miss. Now if its raining the car craps out. Should i just throw in new coils and see if that's it?
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If it doesn't rain it's not too bad, just small specks of dirt. But holy hell, as soon as it rains it looks like someone threw up all over the hatch, rear window, and under the hatch spoiler. Puddles of dirt/water then form on the flat portion. It looks disgusting.
I've waxed the hatch to death with Zaino. What sucks is, so much stuff gets on the hatch that it sticks to the surface and pretty much only comes off with a claybar.
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I have a 1997 Oldsmobile 88 (174K miles, owned only by my father-in-law and then me) with which I am experiencing a hesitation problem from time to time at highway speed. My mechanic has taken the car on several highway test drives throughout the last two days, and he has been unable to reproduce the problem. Furthermore, he has done a full diagnostic test and found no problems with the fuel system, ignition system, or anything else.
Here are the conditions under which the problem occurs:
---Attempting to accelerate gradually at highway speed (usually from 50-60 mph), but WITHOUT pushing the gas pedal down so far as to cause the transmission to downshift
---Engine fully warmed up (temp gauge at 200 F or just below)
---Occurs more often when I have been driving for at least 1-2 hours
The condition is as follows:
---Car lurches/surges noticeably and does not accelerate
---Speedometer needle reflects the lurching by fluctuating up and down about 1 to 2 mph
---Accelerates well if I step down hard enough to cause the transmission to downshift, or stops surging if I lift off the gas pedal
---NO Check Engine light at any time
Some history on the car and corrective actions taken:
---June 2009: My mother-in-law was driving the car about 6 hours into our trip and it consistently hesitated between 50 and 55 mph with the Check Engine light on for the last 30 miles or so of our trip. The next day, we took the car to the dealer where my in-laws had their cars serviced (note the past tense here), where they told us that "there's probably something wrong inside the transmission" and suggested that we replace the transmission with a new one. This transmission is the second new one the car has had (replaced the first time at 95K miles), meaning that this transmission had less than 80K miles at the time. We took the car to a local shop at the referral of a friend, and this mechanic suggested we try flushing the transmission fluid and replacing the filter to see if that would fix the problem before we started talking about replacing the whole transmission. This worked, and we were glad that we did not have to get rid of the car. Did not notice any more problems with this for over a year.
---May 2010: Experienced engine misfire, had spark plug wires replaced. Problem solved.
---March 2011: First noticed my current problem. Had fuel filter replaced (it was probably a little overdue) and had the mechanics do a fuel system cleaning.
---April 2011: Problem still occurs.
---Had throttle body thoroughly cleaned, which fixed a slight sticking in the gas pedal.
---Replaced spark plugs myself. Car running more smoothly overall, but the hesitation still occurs.
---Inspected all three ignition coil packs myself. Top coil pack had some rust on the poles, which caused the resistance to measure as zero. Cleaned most of the rust off the poles, after which all three packs bench tested at 6.23 (with 20000 ohm setting on multimeter). Car runs even more smoothly overall, but hesitation persists.
At this point, my mechanic and I are both stumped as to what could be causing the hesitation problem. My only thought right now is to try replacing the one coil pack that had rust on it, since a pack with a fault I can see may have others inside that I can't see, and maybe something like this is flaking out on an intermittent basis.
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Should I be concerned or will it drain like normal? I thought it was dripping inside the cabin by the hollow plasticy thud sound it makes, makes me worry it's between the plastic layer and the door card.
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I have a 2012 GTI, and yesterday when I got in it I noticed it smelled like chocolate, it had been raining all day.
There has been no food in my car so it wasn't from a outside source. Are the GTI's known to have this smell?
I ask because I know the mk4 jettas smelled like crayons.
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