If i speed onto the highway from 3rd gear it turns on ASR light and wont turn off until i turn car off. I just replaced MAF month or so ago with a cheap ebay one. If that has anything to do with it. 2003 MkIV 1.8T ...
View 7 RepliesI was driving to work last night and too many things went wrong simultaneously leaving my MK4 stranded.
2000 Jetta 2.0
185,000
Automatic
No check engine lights or warnings
-The engine sounded like there was a hole in the exhaust at highway speed. There wasn't because it's a new system
-Low coolant light came on. The flange connector at the firewall was torn off resulting in a stream of coolant pouring out
-It was dark but the engine almost seemed cockeyed by a degree or two
-Upon parking, the motor. sounded "clunky". Driving forward seemed OK. When shifting into reverse there was a pronounced clunk and the drivetrain wasn't happy.
-I turned the ignition off and that was the last time the car started. It turns over now but will not fire up. The video I attached is my last attempt at starting it before giving up.
My car is my job and I'm at a total loss on how to proceed???
Ok, so I was driving normal highway speeds and all of a sudden, I realize a major drop in power. I pull over and restart it and it changes nothing. Now when I floor it, it takes 20-30 seconds to get to 90K.
I checked the air filter... Nothing. Used a code reader... Nothing. Then I decided to pressure test the cylinders... Nothing, except now the check engine light is on.
The Ol Dub is still drivable, but it is extremely slow and rough at idle. I am thinking it might be a MAF or fuel filter.
While driving on the highway I lowered my seat. Once it got to the lowest setting, I heard something sort of like a snap, and it threw an airbag light, so I raised the seat back up. I'm new to VW, but I know there's lots of possibilities for the light.
2000 Jetta GLS
is locking in 4m but is too high, suppose to be ~2200rpm.When I checked with vagcom the speed shown on computer show a speed with 20km/h higher than the real speed (shown at speedometer)
View 14 Replies I travel highway daily at 70+mph and it's pretty annoying, nothing the radio won't fix but sometimes I like to have a conversation with passengers and find myself talking over it.
I have a 2DR Base, MFD 04/12.
I've tried the vinyl tubing thing and that did nothing. Had the dealer look at it when it was in for the service and they said it was "within spec", I stopped up there today and tried looking up any TSB's with the service advisor and most of the ones we found were for the GTI. My issue starts about 60-70 mph and gets worse the faster you go. The noise sounds like it's coming from the top of the window - almost like the window is cracked about 1/8".
My DSG Autobahn 4 dr with 4800 miles has developed a humming and vibration at highway speeds and my dealer and I are stumped as to what it is. I don't really hear the humming until 60mph+ but then its a 1 second pulsing hum coming from the front of the car and I can feel some vibration through the pedals and floor board.
The dealer has checked all wheel bearings and actually replaced the passenger side front bearing. They have also rotated all the tires and one rim that was slightly bent was swapped with another wheel but this did nothing to eliminate the sound. I'm waiting for my dealer to get back to me of when a VW engineer would be available to have go at it.
How "ECO" mode actually works?
When I first got my new 2012 Camry, I noticed ECO light would come on mostly on the highway when I reached certain speeds, and seemed to come on more when I had air conditioning on.
However, now it seems more often the ECO light is on all the time, even when I come to a complete stops. Just wondering if this is normal or do I need to take it in to be checked out or what?
I know ECO mode works with speeds and air conditioning. I do notice when ECO light comes on, the AC doesn't seem to be as cold.... I want my AC working as cool as possible!!! It's constantly over 100 degrees here in San Antonio in the summer.
I've recently started having a problem where the car will die/engine stall when going highway speed (60-70mph), but only when it is wet/raining outside. I retain electrics/radio, but it seems that the engine just turns off. I get no response from the throttle, the rpms just drop and drop. The last instance, it died on me when I started to apply throttle to speed up from coasting at 60mph in 6th.
If I try to restart the car, it will fire up every time, but will die on the rpm downswing after it first fires up. However, if I give the car revs and maintain them (4-5k rpm) when starting, it stays alive and I can drive away. I've even done this during the last instance where the car died and I restarted while coasting at 40mph. I gave it gas on the restart and drove away and the car resumed completely normal operation.
I got codes relating to the throttle body, misfires, and even a bad ECM! However, the next day when things dried up, it ran completely normal, and continues to every day it is dry.
Again, this only happens when its wet/raining out. I popped open the hood and the top of the engine and ecu/raintray seem dry. However, I do not have a belly pan. Also, the car is VF Stage 2 with the air filter in the passenger bumper area, but it is running the plastic shroud around it.
I will try troubleshooting by having the car at idle and spraying water in different spots in/around/under the engine bay to see if I can reproduce the issue.
My truck is a 1997 nissan pickup with. 254,000 miles. Check engine light come on. Only when I am at highway speed. As long as I am in city traffic, nothing I have a code scanner code (PO302) number 2 cylinder misfiring. I change spark plugs and wires and dist cap. But check engine light came back on. I put in shop they claim that they can't find nothing wrong. I guess I need to find a new mechanic.
View 3 RepliesLast week I posted about dropping my car off for service and the dealer finding that all four of my wheels were bent, causing vibration at highway speeds. So I spent a couple hundred dollars and had them fixed.
Car still vibrates at highway speeds...
I feel the vibration in my seat and throughout the car at about 60+mph. The faster I go, the more noticeable it is. I can even hear it.
Dropped off at the shop. Shop called me back stating that the vibrations are being caused by the two tires that need to be replaced.
Wife driving R with around 1,800 miles. Car build date 10/12; engine build date 10/19/12.
Car shuts off at highway speed; red steering wheel indicator is illuminated (not flashing) indicating power steering failure. No gauges, radio, other electrics work. I know about the "electromechanical" power steering set up, but is this the cause or the result of a possible water pump failure?
Car was just towed to dealer; dealer said they will diagnose in the morning.
So far from reading up here is my list:
1) Water pump.
Its not leaking or making noise at this time.
2) Clutch clicking at initial travel.
Noticed this on the first couple miles.
3) Smelly A/C.
This is ongoing
4) Wind noise from doors at highway speed.
Noticed this also
5) Wastegate rattle
Don't hear any rattle, or I am not narrowing down the sound when it happens.
Anything else I should add?
Have a 2004 Jetta, 2.0L BEV auto..has 124,800 miles on it...when cruising on the highway the car seems to momentarily lose power like as if i let off the gas. Car has the original everything for the most part. Did the water pump and timing belt 2k miles ago. Maybe alternator? fuel delivery?
View 5 Repliesso i had a huge coolant leak, changed the coolant flange, filled and ran while clearing air out of the system plus a 20 minute drive = NO leaks
once it hit the highway, coolant gone, smoke everywhere...
no visible leaks
Driving on the highway the other day and I was doing about 80 and I noticed that the front end started to vibrate pretty loud so I slowed down to around 70 and it stopped. I got home and called up the local tire shop had all my wheels re balanced as I heard that could be the cause they were near perfect. Tires have about 3,000 miles on them. so yesterday I took it out to see if it would do it again and I noticed when it starts to vibrate at about 80 and I push in the clutch it stops immediately. Could my clutch be going out? or possibly like the throw out bearing.
View 10 RepliesMy 2002 VW Jetta GLS 1.8T 5-Speed is over heating
Car is still over heating after replacing the following:
- Head gasket
- Coolant fan module
- Geba Metal Prop Water pump
- Full timing belt kit
- coolant fan switch in Radiator
- Bleed the system of all air blow hot air
So Driving the car around town is ok, doesn't over heat, but as soon as I take it on a highway it over heats. I drove it 50 kms out of the city and it over heated, let it cool down and added water. got it back home. Oil light flashed on as I pulled into driveway, turned it off right away. no external oil leaks. Checked coolant, Oil in coolant. also the coolant was boiling, the level was raising up and lowering. I have been reading the forums for a few hours and the oil in the coolant sounds like the oil cooler gasket. Ok so the fans are running and it still over heats. The old metal propeller water pump was very hard to turn so I replaced it with a Geba Metal water pump. no leaks at water pump. Could it be possible that the Oil cooler was causing air to leak into the cooling system causing the coolant to boil? And then when the oil cooler "o-ring" finally failed it dumped oil into the coolant?
I currently have a MKIV Golf. The other day i was out and about and i was going through an intersection. It had some deep gutters, or divets, whatever you want to call them to allow water to flow through the intersection. I didn't notice how deep they were until i hit them, being it was night and I didn't think going the speed limit i would even need to worry about that at a busy intersection. Anyways, i hit it, heard it, felt it. Didn't think of it much since it didn't seem that hard of a scrape. Got some food and ended up driving for another ten min.
My oil light came on and i ended up driving a block or 2 to the gas station. I stalled out on the highway right before i got to the gas station and had to try popping my clutch to make it into the parking lot as it was a busy highway. It restarted and i got into the parking lot fine. immediately turned off the engine. After half an hour and multiple dry dipstick checks and 3 quarts of oil on the floor i ended up finding out that there was a bullet size hole in my oil pan.
The only thing is that the fact the engine sounded horrible, but didn't seize up, and i don't know how long the engine was completely dry, should i take it to a shop so that there isn't a possibility that damage has been done to the engine? or should me replacing the oil pan, adding the proper oil and amount be sufficient for the engine to run fine. I don't want to take the chance as I've already been through engine problems with an s13 i had that seized up on me because of other oil issues.
2.0L 8v ....So what's my chances the valves stayed clear of the pistons?
Driving 70mph 5the gear and cruise control set. Motor just died and I pulled off.
Cars back home in the garage. Iv ordered the ecs tuning timing belt kit.
This was a belt I installed 50k miles ago, shouldn't have gotten a auto parts store belt, or maybe it was my install, but I deff didn't think the belt was going to fail that early. Is there much of a difference between different brand belts and OEM?
I have a 1997 Oldsmobile 88 (174K miles, owned only by my father-in-law and then me) with which I am experiencing a hesitation problem from time to time at highway speed. My mechanic has taken the car on several highway test drives throughout the last two days, and he has been unable to reproduce the problem. Furthermore, he has done a full diagnostic test and found no problems with the fuel system, ignition system, or anything else.
Here are the conditions under which the problem occurs:
---Attempting to accelerate gradually at highway speed (usually from 50-60 mph), but WITHOUT pushing the gas pedal down so far as to cause the transmission to downshift
---Engine fully warmed up (temp gauge at 200 F or just below)
---Occurs more often when I have been driving for at least 1-2 hours
The condition is as follows:
---Car lurches/surges noticeably and does not accelerate
---Speedometer needle reflects the lurching by fluctuating up and down about 1 to 2 mph
---Accelerates well if I step down hard enough to cause the transmission to downshift, or stops surging if I lift off the gas pedal
---NO Check Engine light at any time
Some history on the car and corrective actions taken:
---June 2009: My mother-in-law was driving the car about 6 hours into our trip and it consistently hesitated between 50 and 55 mph with the Check Engine light on for the last 30 miles or so of our trip. The next day, we took the car to the dealer where my in-laws had their cars serviced (note the past tense here), where they told us that "there's probably something wrong inside the transmission" and suggested that we replace the transmission with a new one. This transmission is the second new one the car has had (replaced the first time at 95K miles), meaning that this transmission had less than 80K miles at the time. We took the car to a local shop at the referral of a friend, and this mechanic suggested we try flushing the transmission fluid and replacing the filter to see if that would fix the problem before we started talking about replacing the whole transmission. This worked, and we were glad that we did not have to get rid of the car. Did not notice any more problems with this for over a year.
---May 2010: Experienced engine misfire, had spark plug wires replaced. Problem solved.
---March 2011: First noticed my current problem. Had fuel filter replaced (it was probably a little overdue) and had the mechanics do a fuel system cleaning.
---April 2011: Problem still occurs.
---Had throttle body thoroughly cleaned, which fixed a slight sticking in the gas pedal.
---Replaced spark plugs myself. Car running more smoothly overall, but the hesitation still occurs.
---Inspected all three ignition coil packs myself. Top coil pack had some rust on the poles, which caused the resistance to measure as zero. Cleaned most of the rust off the poles, after which all three packs bench tested at 6.23 (with 20000 ohm setting on multimeter). Car runs even more smoothly overall, but hesitation persists.
At this point, my mechanic and I are both stumped as to what could be causing the hesitation problem. My only thought right now is to try replacing the one coil pack that had rust on it, since a pack with a fault I can see may have others inside that I can't see, and maybe something like this is flaking out on an intermittent basis.
Yesterday driving on the highway, i hear a sudden "clank" and out of the corner of my eye i see my key turn itself to the off position. which i think is really strange... my rpms went to 0 and everything died.
I pulled over, put it in park. I tried to start it but the key wouldn't turn cause it locked. So I took it out and tried again. It started just fine.