While driving on the highway I lowered my seat. Once it got to the lowest setting, I heard something sort of like a snap, and it threw an airbag light, so I raised the seat back up. I'm new to VW, but I know there's lots of possibilities for the light.
2000 Jetta GLS
I swapped my cloth seats for leathers today and the airbag light came on after... the seats were out of a 2000 golf, so I was expecting to have to splice wires, but, the connectors were the exact same on the cloth from my car and leathers from the donor car... so I just did a plug and play... I scanned with vcds and got these codes:
Address 15 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 1C0 909 605 A
Component: 1M AIRBAG VW51 02 0006
Coding: 12621
Shop #: WSC 00000
2 Faults Found:
00592 - Seat Belt Switch: Right (E25)
30-10 - Open or Short to B+ - Intermittent
01218 - Side Airbag Igniter: Passenger Side (N200)
32-10 - Resistance too High - Intermittent
I take it the passenger seat is the problem... I didn't clear the codes, I wanted to ask here first before I did if I need to do anything to connectors there or just the clear the codes?
I have a 2004 Jetta which has the 2-wire seat belt sensor on the passenger side and a 4-wire sensor for the drivers side. I swapped seats from an older style MKIV which had no seat belt sensor on the passenger side and a 2-wire seat belt sensor on the driver side.
As of now the seat belt sensors are disconnected and I am throwing seat belt sensor codes for both passenger and driver side. I have already tried to clear the codes via VAGcom...took care of 2 ignitor codes, but not these seat belt switch codes.
Is it possible to splice in the 2-wires from the older seats to the correct 2 out of 4 wires coming from my car? What's the difference between the 4-wire and 2-wire connector on the driver side?
Also, reading through the DIY here: [URL] ..... It states that I would need a recoding of the Airbag controller in VAG-COM to deal with the airbag light. What this code is suppose to be?
Last winter I had to replace my front passenger seat. The seat was starting to burn a hole or two, generally getting too hot for the passenger. At about the same time my airbag warning idiot light came on! I changed my front seat. The seat change was no biggy, but I keep getting the airbag light! Can this be cleared simply or only by a dealer?
View 8 RepliesCame on while i was driving on the highway, i pulled into a rest stop turned my car off gave it a minute. drove it again and it came on after like 10 seconds.pulled off the next exit, turned it on gave it a minute again and i haven't gotten it on since. this was two days ago.
View 8 RepliesSo i was driving last night at 6am driving my friend home after drinking... and the airbag light came on on the HWY it said "AIRBAG FAILED" then i went to get gas turned off the car... then the light went away when i left... that would stay on the history on the ECU... i wanna know if i should take it to the dealer..
View 3 RepliesSo im getting coils put on in the next 2 weeks, its my first time driving a lowered car i wanna go as low as a can on the coils (which are solowerks s1's) i dont wanna rip my front end off the first week so should i keep it a good height then keep going lower or just go all the way down and drive more carefully(roads not the best where im from, but for sure possible)
Also anything that i should replace while i'm down there besides the strut bushings
Had the common problem of ARB rubbing the drive shaft after I lowered an extra 15mm - It didn't rub before I went this extra 15mm. I got adjustable drop links on and they also didn't work. I basically told the garage to sort it out and they put standard drop links back on (not genuine) and also new wishbones because I needed them. Got my car back and the rubbing was even worse. So I raised it back up the 15mm, to where it was before the rubbing started, yet it's still rubbing like crazy. I'm wondering if the new wishbones may be causing this because of new bushings or something and it all being tighter. And also what am I supposed to do? I shouldn't have to buy a whiteline ARB because it wasn't rubbing at this ride height before the wishbones and drop links were changed.
To summarize:
>Lowered car extra 15mm, rubbing started
>Drop links and wishbones changed, rubbing is worse
>Raised back to the point where rubbing started and still rubbing just as badly.
The cruise worked perfect before I lowered the car and now it works occasionally.. It was on most of the 10 hour drive to this part of Florida and around town it's worked but has started to act up a bit again now.. Sometimes the cruise light will flash and then won't work but other times it's fine any input? The car is an otherwise stock AWP at 107k miles..
View 2 RepliesI purchased a 2002 2.0 jetta a couple of months ago and not long after I had it I noticed that the airbag light had come on. I brought it to a garage and had them check it out and they came back with a code that read 01218 side airbag igniter passenger side. When. I asked about getting this fixed they really couldn't say much about what exactly the problem was other then to say that it could be a problem with the whole system...which I don't get as the code only came back for the side airbag igniter. I also went and spoke to the dealer here in town and they wouldn't even speak to me about it unless I let them have the car be seen by one of their mechanics and putting the computer on it to read the code which I had already told them about.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2004 GLI that I just completed the slave cylinder on, after i got everything back together my driver side axle is now rubbing really bad on the sway bar where it connects to the endlinks. What could be wrong?
View 2 RepliesYesterday driving on the highway, i hear a sudden "clank" and out of the corner of my eye i see my key turn itself to the off position. which i think is really strange... my rpms went to 0 and everything died.
I pulled over, put it in park. I tried to start it but the key wouldn't turn cause it locked. So I took it out and tried again. It started just fine.
Here is my new to me 03 Jetta 1.8T Wagon. This all started yesterday driving down the highway at about 65, I drove over a bump and there was what felt like a jerk. I lost the radio right away and when stepping on the accelerator it didn't seem to go over 3500rpm. I got a few miles into town taking it easy and it died as I pulled up to a stop sign. I was able to get a jump and get it running again.
This was the first jump of the day...When we popped the hood to jump it I noticed that the red wire coming off the positive battery terminal to the power block was frayed and corroded, so I cut the bad end off and stripped the wire to get a good connection. Left the car on a battery tender just to make sure the battery was charged and came back after a few hours and it started right up. Problem solved right?! Wrong...
Probably 10 miles down the road the same thing happens, a jerk or clunk sound, lost power and the call stalled out. Called family that was close by and tried to jump it again 'cause that worked the first time... Got a few miles down the road and it happened again!
Here's a picture of the gauge cluster and all the lights that lit up.
Long story short the car had basically no lights, power, for the windows/radio/turn signals/headlights etc... but was putting along at about 5 mph. I was out in the country and about 5 miles from home so I was just focused on getting it in my garage. It died again and a jump wouldn't even get it going the next time. I did some reading on my phone and it seems like the power block can be problematic, I took a picture of that because there is some obvious melted plastic on the large black wire.
I have a friend with a vag com, and he was able to come out and read the faults and then clear them and the car started right up just fine off a jump pack. We did get it home, but today I'm getting the same issues. I am trying to trace that black wire to its origin to see if there is corrosion or a loose connection there but I have no clue where else to start....
I start a new job on the 21st of July and this was meant to be my commuter as my truck gets terrible mileage...
I was check fuses looking to see if taillight bulb was bad. I pulled out a few while the car was running, then there was a beep, and airbag light came on. Tailight fuse was ok, just had a bad bulb. Put in new bulb, everything works fine but airbag light stays on. All fuses are good.
View 3 RepliesI'm looking for the secret to eliminating the airbag light when running an after market wheel. I realize that not everyone agrees with this modification, but could we stick to the subject at hand. I know there are some hubs that come with a premade resistor that you plug in that eliminates the light, and I've read that some people use a 4.7 resistor. I don't have a plug in resistor, I've tried the 4.7 and that didn't work for me. I've never been able to find any place that would sell the plug in resistor separately, is this possible? What I might have done wrong?
[URL]........
Ok, so I was driving normal highway speeds and all of a sudden, I realize a major drop in power. I pull over and restart it and it changes nothing. Now when I floor it, it takes 20-30 seconds to get to 90K.
I checked the air filter... Nothing. Used a code reader... Nothing. Then I decided to pressure test the cylinders... Nothing, except now the check engine light is on.
The Ol Dub is still drivable, but it is extremely slow and rough at idle. I am thinking it might be a MAF or fuel filter.
Not permanently, but temporarily? I can't really figured out any obvious reason why it is on, all the connections seem good, but I don't really know if I've covered all my bases. I obviously care that it functions properly in the event of a collision, however I was curious if there is a way to manually turn it off for a duration? I have an inspection coming up which doesn't allow for this light to be on.
View 19 RepliesIf i speed onto the highway from 3rd gear it turns on ASR light and wont turn off until i turn car off. I just replaced MAF month or so ago with a cheap ebay one. If that has anything to do with it. 2003 MkIV 1.8T ...
View 7 RepliesI have a 2000 VW Jetta GL. A few weeks ago I noticed my charging light come on followed by abs and airbag lights. Which would mean that the alternator is not charging the battery. However I kept on driving and this light would go off. However when I hit a bump on the road this light goes off meaning that the battery is being charged by the alternator. I recently installed a sound system in the vehicle which worked without problems for a few weeks before I started having this problem. Since then I have changed the alternator, battery and taken out the sound system. I now have a 125 amp alternator instead of a 90 amp alternator. The charge light doesn't come on anymore after startup but the abs, airbag and emergency brake light with a beep is now occurring.
View 3 RepliesThe remote locks on my 2000 Jetta GLX have been working intermittently for almost a year. I had been using the manual key to lock/unlock until finally the manual lock alarm disarm also became intermittent and I found myself stuck at a truck rest stop at 1:30 a.m. with my alarm repeatedly howling into the night and no way to disarm it. I felt caught. I felt trapped. Like I was found guilty of a crime I had never committed. I knew then - I had work to do.
My research in the forums indicated that the door lock assembly was a common culprit - a gremlin, often leaving headaches as it's only calling card. I worked quick, pulling a driver's side door lock assembly out of 2003 at the local junkyard and replacing it no problem. To my surprise, although this DID fix the manual locking/unlocking/alarm disarming problem, it DID NOT fix the remote unlock problem. The culprit was still at large.
Business as usual with intermittent remote unlocking/locking/trunk-popping for weeks until my dash threw the "AIR BAG FAULT" light. I decided to question a local garage owner who's VAGCOM told me that it was caused by something on the driver's side door. He was busy, but it reset fine and I was on my way. I know now that I should have asked for the code then but I was caught in the beauty of a girl who only nails polish was the grease and dirt of the car she worked under. And about a mile down the road, the light came back on.
Now, the "AIR BAG FAULT" light is on as soon as I start the car. However, the time seems to vary slightly before the Jetta beeps and tells me in faded red letters "AIR BAG FAULT". Sometimes right when I leave my driveway, sometimes not before I drive a mile or two down the road. My remote unlock is still working intermittently.
I need both my airbag fault and the remote unlock fixed. I'm wondering if these two problems are related? Like maybe there's a loose connection that is causing the airbag sensor to short and it's beeping when it bumps out of place and maybe the intermittent remotes are being caused by slamming of my driver's side door too hard & it's losing a connection as well. I tried putting a little conductivity jelly in the female clip that goes to the window regulator motor because I heard that the airbag sensor is in there somewhere but it didn't make a difference.
Driving my car (2001 Jetta Wolfsburg w/ 1.8T) to work yesterday and all of a sudden the airbag light comes on... As I was almost to my exit I continued another 500 yards. The ABS/and brake light come on as well and the car dies as I coast to the side of the road. I would not start so I had my spouse bring the trailer and another battery to see if it would start up. It started up and we loaded onto the trailer.
Took the battery to Napa and they said battery was bad. Today I buy another battery and the voltage of the battery not running is 12.2V and with the car running the alternator to battery voltage is the same. How do I know if the voltage regulator is bad or the diode or something internally in the alternator? Also how to I get the airbag light reset?