The clamp connecting the resonator and the catalytic converter is leaking around the edges. I changed the bolts and tightened the clamp but still leaking.
View 24 RepliesI have a 93 ford taurus 3.8L V6 automatic GL. The exhaust clamp between the resonator and exhaust pipe came off and I need to know what size clamp I will need to replace it. I think it is a 2 inch but I am not sure.
View 1 RepliesLong story, I'll try to make this short, 2000 E250 5.4L What would or could happen if the catalytic converter was removed from the exhaust system?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford F250 Diesel. I recently cut the 4 inch exhaust pipe right behind the end of the cab cutting off the muffler and I thought the catalytic converter as well. I was talking to another super duty owner and he said he thought there was another catalytic converter further up in the pipe. Is this true? If so, how far would would I have to cut it to cut it off. Would this make the truck any louder...wouldn't mind if it did.
View 6 RepliesWhat would cause both Cat converters to fail at 20,000 mi.? Mine went out and the back pressure caused the engine to knock under acceleration. Also blew out an injector and plug. Luckily it was under warranty but wonder what could caused it.
View 8 RepliesAfter hearing some loud noise coming from my exhaust system, it was determined that there is a hole (from rust) in part of the cat. assembly. Three shops advised for replacement, there are no aftermarket products for this unit. I have NOT gotten any error codes, the only problem is the noise. What to do? The car is 10 years old with 86000 miles. I have been reading about some of you getting just the one piece and having it welded on, but I do not believe any of the shops here will do that, and indicated that it would be a very temporary fix.
View 17 RepliesMy exhaust on my 01 was rattling. It was coming from the catalytic converter, I assumed it was the heat shield. Put it up on the lift and lo and behold it was something in the cat that was rattling. I was popping a code for the cat anyways so figured I'd just swap it out. Fast forward to tonight. I get the car back up on the lift and I wiggle the cat but no rattling? I go farther back to the first muffler/resonator now it's rattling. It's not a hanger or a heat shield or metal to metal on the outside, there is obviously something of substantial mass inside of it I can almost feel where it is by wiggling around. I chose to wait and cut the exhaust up a different night because I plan on taking that section out as well now, hoping to get out whatever is rattling. If not I'll just have some spare pipe on hand to replace it.
View 6 RepliesMy wife drives a 2001 Suzuki XL7. While she was out, the exhaust heat shield fell off the catalytic converter. My question is does this affect the car's ability to function in any way? Is it still safe to drive? My wife is freaking out over it.
View 6 RepliesI own a 2000 E 250 Econoline van with 170,000 miles. I've been encountering loss of power on acceleration for months. Terrible gas mileage (8-10 mpg) and just recently, I get that rotten egg smell when I gun it and and travel above 65/70. I can feel heat from under the van when i step out as well. I've been blowing individual coil packs every other month after a long drive with a lot of inclines. It all points to a clogged catalytic converter. This van has 3. A front left and right by the manifolds, and a large one before the muffler. My question is, what causes them to go bad? I want to fix the cause before spend the money on new cats. Ive heard a rich fuel mixture could do it. Are there sensors that need to be changed?
View 1 RepliesI have an 2003 Explorer 4.0 and I am looking at replacing my muffler. Only problem is I don't know who to go with. I am looking for a mellow tone with minimal interior noise. I have been looking at Flowmaster, Magnaflow & Dynomax although I can't make a decision. I have heard how the 4.0 Ranger sound's on Magnaflows website(sound's OK) aside from all the horrible sound clips floating around that don't have good quality to listen too. I was looking at Flowmaster 50 series Delta Flow and there SUV muffler(a tad thicker than Delta series) but want some feedback on who/what to go with. Also, right before the tailpipe ends, next to the spare tire underneath, there looks to be what looks like a resonator if I am correct on the tailpipe. Can this be removed and replaced with new piping? Will it hurt performance or make the exhaust sound different?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 Passat with the 2.8L engine. The flexible pipe which is part of the catalytic converter is leaking and the only way to replace it is to replace the catalytic converter. VW refused to assist with the repairs because the car has 96000 mi on it. Emission warranty is 8/80000. How I can replace only the flexible pipe without the cat. because it's still good.
View 3 RepliesYesterday my 1995 Toyota Corolla (which runs well otherwise) started making the loudest rumbling exhaust sound I've ever heard whenever I stepped on the gas pedal. It also felt like it had trouble accelerating when I would try to get going after a stop. I took it to a mechanic right away, who says it needs a new catalytic converter and resonator pipe.
My boyfriend says this is a repair he could do. He has done some car repair and worked with a mechanic before, so I am considering trusting him on that, but I don't know what types of repairs he's done before and I know he has never worked on this model. What would you take into consideration whether or not it would be safe to attempt this repair at home?
My truck just started running really loud when it's cold and the leak goes away when it warms up to operating temperature.I did a little bit of investigating and I have found where the leak is coming from at the end of the exhaust manifold where the donut gasket meets the catalytic converters. It appears that the bolts rotted that hold the system together at the gasket. What should I do to repair this? I don't really want to replace the whole manifold because I know I'll break a stud off in the engine because everything is pretty rusty down there. I even took some pictures of the problem....
View 3 RepliesWas driving to work this morning and my exhaust suddenly got super loud. I did not hit anything. I was cruising through the interstate. Took the car to the dealer to find out my resonator is broken. I have a GHL exhaust. Why would this happen?
View 24 RepliesI have a 2001 VT GTI with 155K miles on it. It is in very good condition. I have loved the car except for the high maintenance costs that typically seem to be associated with VWs.
I found out this week after my check engine light came on that the car needs a new catalytic converter and a new new secondary air pump.
Let's assume that this diagnosis is correct and the repair is accurate for the sake of this posting (and I have no doubt it is). In other words, I don't want to get my question derailed on that issue.
The car has new Michelin tires on it and runs well. The problem is that it will fail the state emissions test I am required to take next December, and I will either be forced to have the car repaired or will not be able to get updated license tabs (isn't that sweet?!).
It seems that I have a few options:
1. Get the repair done (ouch) and keep driving the car for a few more years. Repair cost is about what the market value of the car is (from what I have seen).
2. Sell the car "as-is" between now and December and see what cash I can get out of it. Any buyer will discount the value of the vehicle based on the repairs needed. Of course, then I'll need a replacement vehicle of some sort.
Took my car in for emissions and says catalytic converter is not ready.
What can I do to make this go to "ready"?
I've recently got my computer flashed with new programming.
Since it's been flashed, I've driven the car over 400 miles.
All of the cars self checks should be complete, I can't figure out why the catalytic converter won't go to ready!
Any thoughts or tricks to make it work?
i just bought a cherry bomb glass pack and an exhaust system from summit. I am considering running no catalytic convertor. Anything i should know? I know it wont pass inspection but my truck wont pass right now anyway. I am more concerned with loss of power, or worse gas millage....
View 4 RepliesThe catalytic converter shield is tack welded on the front end but free on the rear end. There was originally some braided wire packing at the rear to keep the shield from rattling against the pipes. Mine was deteriorated and had been damaged, I think, when I sustained some oil pan damage last summer -- big jolt to the system when running over a muffler on the highway.
The fix is simple. Bought a foot of 3/16" braided stainless steel cable. I used about 8 inches and layed in the lower bead line on the catalytic converter shield (see picture below). You can see a bit of the cable thru the gap in the upper/lower shield on the left side. (1/4" cable would be a better fit, but this will work for a long time.) Cost: $1.84
The local VW parts man dug out an exploded drawing of the system but it showed NO parts or packing for this problem.
I have this rattle coming from underneath the car that's been going on for a while.
The car has 110k miles and the rattle is most prominent when I start the car or accelerate hard or just cruising downhill without gas.
I went to one of the well known shops in the area and they said it's coming from the cat and it needs to be replace and quoted me like $1300 for parts and labor which seemed quite steep to me.
They said it's coming from the inside the cat so it needs to be replaced.
Is this a common issue with our cars? I though maybe something is loose and can be just welded together or something.
Does this mean the DPF is shot? I believe its integral with the cat. whats worth checking first?
View 2 Replies105,000 miles on my R32, starting to get check engine light for catalytic converter. Any cheaper options to VW originals that won't harm performance?
View 1 Replies