Golf IV R32 :: Loosen Sound - Rear Spring Collapsing?
Jan 4, 2010
I got bilstein PSS9's at waterfest this year and it has been on my car for approx. 7k miles and I think I am experience the problems that people say about the rear spring collapsing. Whenever i drive on a bumpy road, it sounds like something is loose in the rear specifically the drivers rear. I thought it was the heat shield but i had that tightened and the sound is still there. My rear end is not even lowered alot. I turned the coil about 1-2 times. the front is even lower than the rear. I don't know whats up but its frustrating me. I also have 20mm spacers in the rear, would that have to do anything that is causing this sound.
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I recently got an MK7, coming from a MK5, and I installed the VWR springs 8 days ago. Since then I've noticed an intermittent clunking sound coming from the rear suspension. I installed springs on my MKV without any issues and again on several other cars, soIi'm familiar with the process. Everything was torqued to spec after the install.
My best description of the sound would be a clunk, not any rattling, clicking, or squealing. The sound is greater in the passenger side rear than the drivers side rear. No issues with anything up front. Sometimes it occurs when I'm turning the steering wheel while backing out of parking spots and driving slowly, other times when I hit bumps in the road, but it is not constant nor does it seem dependent on the size of the bump/pot holes in the road.
What may be causing this? My plan was to give it a week for everything to settle before I tore everything apart to look for any culprit.
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This noise I have is driving me crazy, installed neuspeed race springs and now I have this weird spring noise, sounds like the springs are binding and then releasing when you turn the wheel, like a clicking dinging noise, it's on both sides and happens when moving slow and turning the wheel and when stationary and turning wheel, it sounds like tug and release not really spring bind I checked install and everything is correct even disassembled bearing assembly and everything is fine, lubed spring seats with silicone paste nothing is working.
When looking at the spring and turning wheel it's almost like the spring is getting stuck on the middle part of the seat then releasing, I know this was a common problem on the mk6 but I haven't heard anything about the mk7 the spring is seated in the lower perch perfectly the upper is were the noise is coming from you can see as you turn the upper bearing by hand it actually somewhat twists the spring and then releases and that's what makes the noise, and it dose not move in a nice circular motion kind of like an egg shaped rotation and it makes the spring flex and pop I think there's a problem with the springs,
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So I finally installed my brand new coils in yesterday. I took it for a test drive and noticed a noise coming from the rear struts. It sounds as if the spring is wobbling around, almost like a clicking sound. When I first installed them I installed them without the rear perch, then when I heard the noise I thought it was because I didn't install the perch so I ended up taking my wheels off and installing the perch back in. No luck. It's still making a clicking sound when I'm driving, constantly. I had my friend push down on the rear of the car several times while I look under it, I don't know what it could be.... I also cut my rear bump stop in half. Could that be the issue? I have about 10 threads left on the rear perch before I max out.. The spring is compressed half way. Once again, These coils are brand new.
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Which way do you turn to loosen the bolt that holds the tensioner pulley to the tensioner arm?
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Went to lower my front end today and after trying for 15 min the nut directly under the spring was frozen. i sprayed it with PB blaster let it sit for like 20 min, kept on spraying it during that time. tried adter that and still did not budge a mm. even tried with a flat head and a hammer trying loosen it. did not work. was wondering if there was any other way i can get it loose?
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Adding cruise control to F350 XL I just bought. I got a steering wheel with the buttons. But I am having problems with the clock spring. Mine has an 8 wire plug with only 6 pins on the big plug and all of the clock springs I have found have only a 6 wire plug for the big one. Without changing my clock spring I have no where to plug in the cruise wiring. All have been for right year model with cruise and even tried different years but none will plug in under the dash.
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Conversion from the dana 50 to the newer dana 60 with coil spring? My Dana 50 has called it quits so while my front end is already off the vehicle already why not make improvements. Ford used the 50 for 1999 to 2002 then upgraded to the 60, I'm guessing it was for a reason!
I've read this article on a similar project but the dana 60 had leaf springs as well: Dana 60 Conversion for F250 years 1986-1996 .: Articles I'd prefer coil spring, nothing more then personal preference with a bit of better ride quality. The donor vehicle is a 06 SRW F250 This is not what I'll be getting but just as an example of the parts I would get.
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I hope i don't give the impression on my very first post that I'm a total retard......but ...I can't figure out for the life of me how to get those spring line coupling apart! I've removed the clips...but it just won't pull apart. Is there a tool to release the garter spring?
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I had no rattling before H&R sport spring install but now it's coming from what sounds like the top of the strut when I go over small bumps at slower speeds. All bushings and ball joints etc. are new . It's like a clunking banging noise?
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I need to figure out a knocking sound that I have coming from my rear struts. I installed new springs on my 2011LE 4cyl yesterday and now when I hit some bumps I get a knocking sound. I didn't cut down my factory bumpers so I think that might be the reason but I first wanted to get your option. The spring drop it's 1.5 on some Megen springs.
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I noticed something hanging from the rear suspension / passenger side, and took a look.
two pieces of some rubber / neoprene-looking stuff were hanging, it seems they are part of some rubber spring "isolator" at the top of the spring??
is this "isolator" a replaceable part? I've been hearing a noise at the rear and now I know where it is coming from. Here's a picture of what fell off:
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after I had my springs installed I noticed this air sound when I go over bumbs. is this normal.? if I upgrade my shockts to aftermarket will they make the same sound?
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So, I got my oil changed at the dealer and they said that I have a cracked rear coil spring. They quoted $350. So I took it to my real mechanic and he looked at it, said it's fine for now but I do have inspection next month. He said my struts feel fine. I'm having trouble finding just the spring since the Moog ones are out of stock. I did see Unity quick struts but I don't know if they're any good whatsoever. Whether to just go with springs (and a link to some) or get the complete struts and lend an opinion on good ones. Also, it has 122k miles. A0001 ?
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How to remove the spacer from the rear-end, spring and axle housing. If so, would it be the best to remove one at time etc. Must they be re-located below the axle or totally removed. I don't have a hoist to work from only floor jacks.
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The other day I heard a massive snap as I pulled out of the driveway. I drove to work and everything handled fine but if I drove over a bump I noticed a horrible sound under my car. Smaller bumbs just caused a ting. My gfs dad looked at it and said everything was fine. I surely didn't believe that so I just jacked up my car and right away I noticed my spring snapped!
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Took a recently purchased 2004 Civic EX to a mechanic to have it diagnosed. The diagnosis (separate discussion) was such that I decided to get a second opinion. On driving away, I noticed a constant spring-squeaky sound that had not been there before, so I took the car back. The mechanic explained that the front struts were bad (not part of their original diagnosis) and therefore, when they put the car up on the frame lift, air entered the struts hydraulic whatevers and that was causing the squeak. Several weeks ago, I had had the oversize wheels and tires that came with the car replaced - why wouldn't the problem have surfaced then, or in the 1000 miles I'd driven since? Btw, the tire place that had changed the tires and wheels had said nothing about struts needing replacing.
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I have checked and cleaned my K&N air filter so I din't think thats the problem... may be just old & weak... it collapses on acceleration and stays that way til I pop it out. What I can install? Don't want the same one in there now, something that is harder would be ideal. Been searching online for one that will fit my car. Pic below.
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I just went into my garage and noticed pieces of my rear coil spring on the ground. 2000 Chevy Malibu LS. Question is, do I have to replace both rear coil springs? They seem to sell them in pairs.
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My uncle has a 2002 Explorer and the driver side rear spring is cracked. I have agreed to fix this as he is on a tight budget and has no mechanical skills or tools for that matter.
Anyhow, I did some reading and have two monroe quickstruts to replace the OEM stuff. I did not want to screw around with a spring compresser and everything else. Were in Michigan, and I can only imagine how rusted the bolts are on this. So I figured getting the whole unit with new hardware would be the best route.
Hopefully these are easy questions. (I do not have the truck to look at right now, and will be doing this Saturday Morning)
I have air tools, Jackstands, 2 floor jacks, a bottle jack, and everything else I need at this point including PB Blaster, rags, pry bars, sockets, etc.
1. I am assuming once I get the truck in the air, I will put the frame on jack stands, and use the floor jacks to manipulate each side of the rear suspension as needed. If I remove the three top bolts, and the bottom bolt holding the shock, can I move the control arm down enough to get the old parts out?
2. What are the torque specs if any for the top three bolts, and the bottom shock bolt? I read the top three bolts are difficult to get out due to limited clearance, so I doubt a torque wrench will fit in there.
3. Would you locktite these top three bolts at all?
4. Weakest question of the day, What are the torque specs for the lug nuts.
5. Anything I have obviously missed? I have done front struts before with a compressor so I am somewhat familiar with the process. Just not on this car before.
6. When Im in this far, anything else I should look at. I will inspect the brake pads etc. Drain and fill the rear diff fluid if needed, etc.
I have searched high and low on the net to find a pictorial write up of the process....
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I've got an '08 FX4 that has developed quite a loud and annoying squeak from the rear leaf springs. It happens when I'm slowly applying power and going over bumps such as speed bumps or similar. More so when I'm going up hill.
I initially thought it was a u-joint going bad, and had my driveline mechanic take a look at it. He discovered it was the rear leafs making the noise. He sprayed them with an aerosol light grease and the noise was instantly gone. The problem is, the noise comes back after the grease spray has worn off (usually after driving in the rain) which happens a lot in the Vancouver area.
This is my 3rd Ranger and I have never had this problem. I don't drive in unusual places (beach, sandy, dusty areas) so I don't know why this is happening. It does look rusty in the areas that I can see in between the individual leafs. Is this a common problem for this vintage of Ranger?
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