Golf IV R32 :: Misfiring At Idle After Startup
Jun 24, 2013
Car has been running flawlessly up until about 3 days ago. One morning got in started up and started misfiring at idle. Didn't think much of it as it does that on cold start. Driving down the highway when I apply 5-10% light throttle the car bucks and doesn't feel smooth. WOT is fine. Pulled into a gas station to fill up and it stalled as soon as I put it in neutral. When I tried to start it back up it started for a second then stalled out again. Finally I gave it some gas while I started it up and got it to idle on its own (idled around 600 rpm, down from my usual 800 rpm).
At this point I am thinking boost/vacuum leak. I leave the gas station and get caught in traffic. Car is not overheating. All of the sudden I notice a bunch of white smoke coming from the tail pipes. I pull over pop the hood to check coolant. No leaks and bottle is full. The white smoke smells like burnt oil. finally notice a VERY small oil leak at my turbo oil feed line. I checked the oil level and it was still exactly where it needs to be.
I have my buddy at the dealership looking over it now but I am really worried that I might have blew the turbo..
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The car already has a cel even though I just bought it. Drove home from work this morning had no problems, went to go shopping no problem, come out start my car and it won't idle right, problem. The Cel flashed at me and once driven a tiny bit stayed constant. Seems like a cylinder is misfiring because of the sound it makes and it is hesitant when you give it some gas. What could it be, coil packs (which is what is was in my 24v) MAF, spark plugs?
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If my car's been sitting - say monday morning after sitting all weekend in the garage- it runs rough for a little while. Sometimes only for a few seconds, sometimes for a little while after the idle drops. The colder the car is, the longer and worse the condition. It feels like a cylinder isn't firing.
After a particularly cold and wet spell (I had the car outside) it ran so badly it threw a code for one of the cam position sensors and #4 misfire. I replaced both of the sensors. That worked a little.
Since I was due for 80k service and saw a misfire when damp, I replaced the ignition coils along with the spark plugs. That worked a little more. But, it still does it. What else could it be if not ignition? Sticky valve? something else?
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So every morning I get in my car and start it up. Usually, It starts right up, hit 1.5K RPM and then drops to almost dead (~3-400RPM) and then goes back up to a normal idle. This has always concerned me but never thought too much of it since the car goes right back to normal after a few seconds. Today the car did the normal startup and then died. What is causing this?
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I have a 1999.5 jetta vr6, the CEL is on (p0102 MAF sensor circuit low or something like that...). When i start it up, it often dies really soon after and until its warm it will idle really roughly. I'll have to start it up between 5 and 15 times... Once its warm and about 190 F oil temp it runs just fine, but still has a slightly rough idle.
I have a new MAF sensor coming in, or if there are any other things i should check that might contribute to the problem.
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Normally when cold the car would start and rest at about 1,200 maybe 1,300 for a couple minutes then go down to its normal idle point, recently when starting it when cold, it sounds and looks like it wants to do that but just goes straight to its normal idle point, its only started this a couple does ago and has me a little worried now. could there be anything wrong ?
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This is a 2003 honda civic with about 150k on it. Recently the check engine light came on so I went to Advance auto parts to get my codes read. I got back that the oxygen sensor had gone bad and each and every cylinder was misfiring?
What could be causing the each cylinder to misfire like that? I drive it about 60mi every day and it doesn't seem to drive all that rough. So it's kinda weird that it said every cylinder was misfiring, like how could I even drive it like that?
I heard the oxygen sensor is something I don't have to worry too much about. I could still drive it. The clerk told me to some spray carburetor cleaner on it and that should do something for it.
But recently I've noticed that it starts up rough, seems to strain for about 2-3 seconds then it starts.
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To start off with I am not car smart! I have a 2008 Santa Fe 3.3L V6. Last year about this time (December) I had problems with the vehicle upon start up would be miss firing and the check engine light would come on. I would turn the vehicle off and restart and it would be fine and not happen again sometimes for a week and sometimes for months. I hooked it up to the computer and found that it was missing on the #6 cylinder. I had the coil pack replaced and that seemed to fix the problem (replaced spring 2011). About a week ago it started doing the same thing (December 1). Upon initial start up when the car is cold and the outside air is very cold it started missing again and having a rough idle. Would turn of the car and restart and would run fine but check engine light would come on.
Hooked it up to the computer once again and it read random misfire. This has happened twice now in two weeks with the same reading each time. Always when it is cold (engine and outside temp) and seems to reset itself when turned off.
I spoke with a mechanic who recently had this same issue with a different vehicle and after trying many things replaced the engine coolant temp sensor and that did the trick. He said it was a cheap start therefore i bought the part and now am looking to replace it. The only problem being i am car dumb and cant find it. I have done many searches and the diagrams i have found don't do me any justice. The past posts on here have given pictures of older models that dont match what i am looking at. It probably is right in front of my face. Any picture of a 2008 that will show the correct area I should be looking at? The vehicle only has about 57,000 miles on it.
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I drove home Saturday morning from work with no issues. Car sat until Monday night and as soon as I had to stop at a light it was idling very rough where the rpms were jumping 3-400 up and down. I make it to work and on the way home I experienced the same idling issue along with some misfiring. I scanned and came up with the following codes. I have no CEL. I had my APR flash, Forge Intake, Turbo back exhaust all installed 2 and a half years ago. I have owned the car for four years never having replaced the DV or PCV. 87,000 miles.
10 Faults Found:
001090 - EVAP Emission Control Sys
P0442 - 001 - Small Leak - Intermittent
012403 - Fuel Pump Circuit
P3073 - 004 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent
004759 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
P1297 - 001 -
004243 - Bank 1; Fuel Measuring System 2
P1093 - 008 - Malfunction - Intermittent
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 002 - - Intermittent
000769 - Cylinder 1
P0301 - 002 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
000772 - Cylinder 4
P0304 - 002 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
000770 - Cylinder 2
P0302 - 002 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
008825 - Leak in Air Intake System
P2279 - 002 -
000771 - Cylinder 3
P0303 - 002 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
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Recently got broadsided (passenger), got the body fixed up. Now it is Misfiring on idle and only on idle...
Prior to this I had Coil go out on me, got that changed out, changed the spark plugs. It was running great then the accident happened an this Misfire on idle problem.
Took it to the shop, had them check for a code, no code. They suggested that it made be do to carbon buildup from the previous misfiring issue and suggested using STP engine treatment on it.
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B5 passat. Recently she took her car to the shop bc her cel was on. turned out her turbo was blown so she got it replaced with a brand new one along with the oil pump. about 3 days later the check engine light comes back on..idle is very rough and it feels like its misfiring.
First thing i did was check the coilpacks bc it was why my audi would always misfire but it didn't work. So she took it back to the shop and they said that her ecm is dying. Ive never heard of that happening.
The codes that came up from the CEL the second time were p0171, p0172, p0173, p0303
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My car has had random misfiring when at idle and has been shaking really bad but once I accelerate and get up to speed the vibrations and misfiring stop but the check engine light flashes for a few minutes. I have changed spark plugs, all 6 ignition coils the intake manifold gasket and both camshaft position sensors. My car has 180K the codes that are showing up are 300,301,303 and 0016. I really love the car and have had no prior issues the car before this ran like a champ.
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I recently bought a 92 Celica gt (5s-fe). The engine feels like its misfiring and wont idle on its own.
I've done all the normal maintenance to it and the spark plugs all show normal signs of wear. I haven't verified fuel and spark yet. Check out the video below. The piece of cardboard is to keep the throttle partially open. Also, the exhaust is broken off at the flex pipe so excuse the awesome sound ...
[URL] ....
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I got a 99 1.8t. Here's the deal, misfiring at idle, flashes battery light. alt and battery was checked and there great. it has a maf code, so I unplug the maf and still get the same misfiring. maf was fine be4 i tried cleaning it, now it throws the code. it had misfiring be4 i clean it also. next problem is it stutters and misses if i go wot in 4 or 5 gear and the batt light flashes it doesn't throw a misfire code. Also if I am idling and i floor it, it stutters and misses at lower rpm rage and then is fine at higher rpm range. i replaced plugs and gapped em right, i did a power balance test and the coils all are firing so is the injectors. I don't got vag but i do got a good obd2 scanner i was looking at the data wen car was off and i seen that if i floor it the tps only reads 77.7% . Also my timing says its 12 degrees and idle fuel pressure is fine i checked with a gauge. Pretty much misfiring with no codes thrown and flashing battery light.
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Took this car for scheduled maintenance, tuneup on 12/19. AFTER the tuneup, it started shaking when in idle or going slowly. Took it back 1/5, they confirmed it was misfiring, checked a computer code, replaced one of the coils. The misfiring went away but returned, worse than ever, last week (early Feb).
I read somewhere that replacing coils for misfiring can be just treating the symptom, not the cause. What should I do now?
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I just recently purchased a used taurus and was experiencing rough idling and misfiring during operation. I replaced the EGR valve, the egr sensor, coil pack, spark plugs, iac valve, as well as check for vacuum leaks near all the hoses. I am a novice when it comes to this, but I was able to change those without issue. The misfiring was fixed during driving, but I still have rough idling. The needle seems to stay in check pretty well and the check engine light isn't on, but the car kinda hesitates and it causes the car to rock when idling. You can also feel the stuttering and rocking when cruising at very low speeds (5-15mph). I've already plugged in a decent amount of money into parts and am running out of patience when it comes to fixing what is a "potential" problem, and it winds up not fixing much.
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I recently picked up a 2wd 2002 F-150 with a 4.2l V6 that has just over 300k miles. The CEL is on and I'm getting P1131, P1151, P0316, P0305 and an occasional P0301. It has a very distinct misfire from around 1,000 rpm and smooths out between 1,500 & 2,000 rpm, the idle rpm occasionally bounces (sometimes enough to stall), and the idle is sometimes rough.
I have replaced the plugs, wires, fuelfilter, and replaced a leaking PCV hose. As I have changed things the symptoms have improved some but they are still there. While capturing some livedata it kept going out of CL and into OL Fault. When it would the idle quality was crap and the miss was much more significant. I would have to put it into D hold the brake and run the RPM's up to just over 1k to get it back into CL.
After I got done with the data stream at idle, I set the parking brake held the foot brake and put the truck in D then ran the rpm's up to around 1,200 & held it there. The truck stayed in CL but it would cycle between misfiring for 5 - 10 seconds then clear up and run smooth for 20 ' 30 seconds, every time it cycled there was an audible click that could be heard. Also, the AC was off the whole time.
Live DataStream @ Idle: CL
CalculatedLoad Value - 12.9- 14.1%
EngineCoolant Temp - 103degrees C
Short TermFuel Trim B1 - 32.8%
Long TermFuel Trim B1 - 0.0%
Short TermFuel Trim B2 - 32.8%
Long TermFuel Trim B2 - 0.0%
Engine RPM - 816 . 846
[Code] .....
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I recently bought a 05 f150 with 5.4 3v and 195k miles needing some work. Ran great, just had a code for timing over retarded. Originally it had a cracked timing cover, so i took it off to replace and found broken guides and bad tensioners on timing. I installed new guides, chains, and tensioners, and cleaned phasers, and put back together only to find it ran terrible and had a phaser rattle. I then went in and installed phaser locks, which took care rattle but not the running issues. I can not figure it out.
ISSUES: My issues almost mirror what is said in this thread here, but this issue was never solved. [URL] ....
My issue is when started cold it starts right up, idles ok, runs ok, although a bit sluggish. Once its warm it stalls at idle, shudders when giving throttle in overdrive, and if you kick it down it will continually backfire, and slowly accelerate... it kicks down but acts like its only getting 1/8 throttle, just kind of hangs at the same rpm and slowly climbs in rpm. Sometimes it wont backfire as much, and sometimes the check engine light flashes. After it stalls at idle and you start it back up it sounds like it shudders/backfires for a split second then starts.
It is throwing many engine codes, but most are from the phaser locks. Throws code for timing over advanced on each bank (phaser locks lock them fully advanced), cam timing codes for each bank, and then a code that doesn't have to do with the timing, P2106. I am going to run some live diagnostics on it today and report back but I am fully at a loss.
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My 99 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC has been misfiring lately. In idle the RPM needle fluctuates a bit and the vehicle vibrates and shakes. At night when the lights are on I notice them dim a bit as the engine struggles in idle. It doesn't stall very often at all. Accelerating I notice way less power and the engine studders. That's when the engine light comes on flashing. Then remains on solid afterward. I brought it to a mechanic friend who read the code and it was cylinder two misfire as well as the O2 censor.
I replaced the plugs and leads and censor. Noticed the plug in cylinder two had little to no gaping. Thought I had fixed the problem. The vehicle ran perfectly. Three or four days later driving on the hwy same problem came back. Thinking it must be the coil pack I got one for a good price and replaced it. Again, the truck ran great for four days and now the problem has returned. Same thing, shaking studdering and flashing engine light. I have verified the locations of the wires and plugs a few times so i believe they are all properly installed.
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I had to choose the Yukon, as there is no Suburban?
Anyway, I have a very bad misfire in my truck. Lopes at idle stumbles under load. Through substitution, I have tested: module, coil, and crank sensor. I have replaced: plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter and upgraded from SCFI to MFI (can you say "expensive best guess"?).
Still getting P-0300, P-0302 and mostly P-0304, using a Snap-on Modis scanner.
Compression tested today: all cylinders between 160- & 170 psi. After this, leak-down seemed redundant.
Back pressure test: 0.5 psi at 2500 RPM, both banks.
Steady fuel at about 60 psi.
I am going to pull distributor (175K miles) and examine drive gear. Not too sloppy at rotor bearing. However, how do I set baseline timing when I re-install distributor? If the distributor is OK, what test or part should I look at next?
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Recently replaced plugs/wires on soon-to-be 10 year old '04 SF 3.5L (157K mi.) for the first time.
Plugs were OE Champion Platinum and all 6 looked identical except for excessive gap of .010 +/- due to all the miles. Replaced plugs with same as OE. Old plug wires looked good, but replaced them with aftermarket wires ( fit was as good as OE). Also replaced plenum gasket.
Problem is: engine runs rough at idle and high rpm and appears to be mis-firing. CEL is off and code reader shows no Trouble Codes stored.
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