So every morning I get in my car and start it up. Usually, It starts right up, hit 1.5K RPM and then drops to almost dead (~3-400RPM) and then goes back up to a normal idle. This has always concerned me but never thought too much of it since the car goes right back to normal after a few seconds. Today the car did the normal startup and then died. What is causing this?
View 4 Repliesive actually owned 4 volkswagens one of which was a 2002 big turbo gti which made 325whp..... so now i have a 2005 Jetta GLI with about 41k on it. This car has a serious idle problem. Start up is fine and it runs great and hits boost perfect. It has a 6 speed, APR chip intake, forge DV, and DP. When i come to a traffic light and come to a complete stop after about 10 seconds it hiccups and the idle drops to abou 600 and then back up to normal idle. It will also do it if i just leave the car running in neutral it will randomly stutter. I have new spark plugs and new fuel injectors and i only use 93.
View 1 RepliesNormally when cold the car would start and rest at about 1,200 maybe 1,300 for a couple minutes then go down to its normal idle point, recently when starting it when cold, it sounds and looks like it wants to do that but just goes straight to its normal idle point, its only started this a couple does ago and has me a little worried now. could there be anything wrong ?
View 12 Repliesmy 1990 Nissan 300zx with 136,000 miles often surges at highway speeds for several seconds then drops back down to normal. the surge is usually 1000 rpm. does not happen if not in overdrive, and will not happen unless having been driving for 15 minutes or so. also seems to occur more on hot days (80 degree +) than on cool days. mechanic has looked at this several times but not yet able to determine why.
View 2 RepliesFor reasons I can't figure, the Temp gauge on the wife's Explorer is shooting from normal to high in just seconds. Then, it drops back to normal. When I looked at it this afternoon, I noted 2 things.
1) There was no sign of a coolant leak or overheating.
2) There wasn't ANY coolant in the tank!!!!!!!
The truck has evidently been running fine while this is going on.
1998 Honda Civic EX. This has been a great car and have got a ton of good miles on it. The problem that I am having now is with the temperature gauge. The measurement is completely all over the place while driving. While moving around town, the gauge shows the temperature VERY hot. As soon as I reach a consistent speed, the temperature drops back to normal (moves very erratically!). The gauge seems to get even hotter while idling. Another issue (may or may not be related) is the heat coming out of the vents is only working while the car is in motion. While stopped, it pumps out cold air. The temperature immediately changes when I get going again. Both problems seem to be getting worse. The car has coolant, and all other levels of fluids are normal.
View 14 RepliesI replaced my engine that had 155,000 miles with a newer used one with about 30,000 miles. since the swap my gas mileage is down by one third or more. Everything else seems fine except that my cold start idle is up to 2000rpm's until it drops to normal within 3 minutes.
View 2 Replies I have never seen any of my other cars do this and I just want to see if this is normal. It happens like clockwork every time I get in the car with a cold engine. I let the car sit while the RPMs are high and as soon as the tach drops I start to drive the car softly. The engine temp gauge reaches normal operating temp in a normal amount of time, it does not just jump to the middle. But after about 1 minute it just starts falling quite quickly, as you can see in the video. It's very predictable - happens every time I drive it so it was easy to catch on video. I don't notice any difference in engine performance. Is this normal for a VW GTI or is something wacky going on?
You can skip to 19-20 seconds in the video to see the needle drop.
I've got a P0456 code on my 02 LS v6. I came to a stop at a light, RPMs quickly dipped twice from 800 to 400(ish) then went right back to normal idle (800-1000) and the CEL lit up. It seems to be running fine other than the RPM drops after coming to a stop.
I checked the gas cap, everything seems OK there. Checked the hoses coming into/out of Evap valve (well, assuming this diagram actually points me to the evap valve: [URL] .... and there were no major/detectable cracks. Any other hoses/fittings that I should check?
I warm up my car in the morning and let it sit for a bit before I drive away, but after the initial warm up (You can tell when the rev drops back below 1k that it's done), I can sometimes hear a high pitch noise that's very subtle from within the car. However, the moment I walk towards the engine bay and open it up, the sound disappears. If I give gas to rev up the engine, it'll also disappear, but as soon as the rev returns to idle ~800 rpm, the sound appears again. Each time that im at a stop light or park(on idle), the sound that look more like a vibration appear but not everytime, it look inconstant. I went to the dealer and they laugh at me blaming the cold weather and a little piece in front of the engine that I don't remember the name that regulate the fuel.
View 14 RepliesIt started snowing going down to 10-15 degrees during school hours. and whenever i go to turn my car on it starts but immediately the RPMs rise to about 1300 and then immediately drops to about 300 then immediately back up to 1200 but stays steady until it warms up then drops to normal about 700. i understand the cold start when it idles high until it warms up but why does it drop then come back up?
View 3 RepliesI have an 08 R32 and when i come off the the highway ramp and go down a gear the car seems dead or just stuck in between gears when I get back on the gas. I have no power for 2-3 seconds. That hiccup that every one is talking about, when I am in traffic in 1st gear the car just wants to surge off and on??? Is that the hiccup?
View 16 RepliesMy vr6 some times loses its power but it's weird because the check engine light does not appear. It does for like 30 seconds then it goes back to driving normally.
View 1 RepliesSince the weather has warmed up, I have been experiencing an odd issue. After I drive my car for a little while I will let it sit and go to class for example. Whenever I get back into my car and start it, It will bog for a second and then resume to normal idle. It has happened multiple times with no check engine light. I will try to get a video tomorrow.
View 9 Replieslike the title said is it normal that my car idles at 875 rpm on idle
View 7 RepliesCar has been running flawlessly up until about 3 days ago. One morning got in started up and started misfiring at idle. Didn't think much of it as it does that on cold start. Driving down the highway when I apply 5-10% light throttle the car bucks and doesn't feel smooth. WOT is fine. Pulled into a gas station to fill up and it stalled as soon as I put it in neutral. When I tried to start it back up it started for a second then stalled out again. Finally I gave it some gas while I started it up and got it to idle on its own (idled around 600 rpm, down from my usual 800 rpm).
At this point I am thinking boost/vacuum leak. I leave the gas station and get caught in traffic. Car is not overheating. All of the sudden I notice a bunch of white smoke coming from the tail pipes. I pull over pop the hood to check coolant. No leaks and bottle is full. The white smoke smells like burnt oil. finally notice a VERY small oil leak at my turbo oil feed line. I checked the oil level and it was still exactly where it needs to be.
I have my buddy at the dealership looking over it now but I am really worried that I might have blew the turbo..
Every now and then when I slow down the temp gauge drops about 1 notch below its normal 200 reading. It's nerver done this before. Car runs great and heat is strong. Is this a sign of a failing thermostat? If so, where is the thermostat located, is it hard to replace, and should I get OEM or is OTC ok? Car has 89K on it.
View 11 RepliesIf my car's been sitting - say monday morning after sitting all weekend in the garage- it runs rough for a little while. Sometimes only for a few seconds, sometimes for a little while after the idle drops. The colder the car is, the longer and worse the condition. It feels like a cylinder isn't firing.
After a particularly cold and wet spell (I had the car outside) it ran so badly it threw a code for one of the cam position sensors and #4 misfire. I replaced both of the sensors. That worked a little.
Since I was due for 80k service and saw a misfire when damp, I replaced the ignition coils along with the spark plugs. That worked a little more. But, it still does it. What else could it be if not ignition? Sticky valve? something else?
My 2001 Ranger V6 with 160.000 miles runs like a Swiss watch. After warming up slightly it idles at the typical 750 RPM. I can pull out of the garage, park in the yard, shift from D or R into P and the idle holds at 750 RPM until I turn the engine off.
But, If I've driven to warm the engine to normal run temp and go through the same D or R and into P, the RPM drops to nearly Zero and sometimes the engine stops.
This has happened in the past so I take out the MAF, squirt it good with MAF cleaner, put it back in and everything is hunky-doory. But not this time. What am I missing??
I have a 1999.5 jetta vr6, the CEL is on (p0102 MAF sensor circuit low or something like that...). When i start it up, it often dies really soon after and until its warm it will idle really roughly. I'll have to start it up between 5 and 15 times... Once its warm and about 190 F oil temp it runs just fine, but still has a slightly rough idle.
I have a new MAF sensor coming in, or if there are any other things i should check that might contribute to the problem.
I have a Chrysler 2002 T & C. When the ignition is "on", everything works, but if the car starts, these accessories drop out and don't come back on for minutes at a time. The ignition switch has been replaced, but it still happens?????
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