I'm pulling my control arms to replace the bushings (they were completely split) and I'm trying to get the right one off. How the heck did you get the boot out on the front passenger side?! See pics. The bolt jams right up to the oil pan. The only way I see it is to remove the pan. Is this right?!?!
View 6 RepliesAlright, after taking everything off and replacing all the joints/bushings, I am left with the control arm. (it hasn't been easy either)
I am at the control arm (Passenger side) and i got the rear bushing loose. I managed to brake the front one loose, with a lot of force, but it spins. I see in HMA that it has a bolt, or so it appears, but how on earth do you get to that?
So I'm pulling the front control arms on my car and was wondering how to pull the front bolt out of the passenger side control arm and if it is doable without dropping the sub-frame. The bolt has like no clearance between the oil pan and the front edge of the sub-frame.
View 3 Replies2008 6.4L F250 Crew. I just recently had a new radiator installed while the cab was off for an oil cooler change. I noticed that my lower front bushings are gone and need to be replaced.
I thought it would be an easy, pull the bolts drop the lower bushing and reinstall. Looks like they don't come out so easily. Is there a trick to getting the lower mounts/bushings separated from the uppers?
my problem is this: my lower control arm bushing, front but (rear bushing) unfastens alright but i cannot get the bolt out no matter what i do. it just keeps spinning and will not come out the control arm has snapped itself so needs to be replaced. now is there a secret way (lol) to get this out iam about to become on nerve pills because of this lol. it just keeps turning on me and will not come out the other nut/bolt came out without any problems.
and from the manufactures book the actual gm book 375.00 paid for this darn book
anyway it says that these bolts have got to be placed back in from the inside (both of them) meaning they aren't supposed to be placed back one one way the the other way. a guy has told me its okay to be doing it the way where i place it back in to wiggle it back and forth to get it back in but the gm manual says to put both bolts back in the exact same way from inside the control arm out and the both nuts to be facing outside. and even when i took them both off the one was bolt end from the outside in and the other from the inside out? i have a 1997 3.1 front wheel drive. and i have only 1 lower control arm on each side
Any hints on a easy way to change these.
After I have the wheel off do I need to disconnect the upper ball joint to remove these. It looks like I can just remove the two nuts on each side and use a jack under the rotor to support the weight. It looks like it might shift back and forth enough to get them out/in.
Will this work?
I took my Touareg in for an oil change. When the tech lifted it up, he called me and pointed our a bushing on the lower control arm which was leaking oil or some fluid. I touched it and it seemed like oil of some sort. It was like black or something near that color. He told me that maybe it was some kind of a hydraulic bushing and the seal had gone bad. The oil was not coming from anywhere else, but the bottom of the bushing.
I took it in to service and the tech couldn't really explain where the oil was coming from, but told me that that bushing did not have any type of fluid in it. While I had the Touareg in, the air suspension compressor finally got replaced. I feel like I'm actually driving a luxury car now. It feels so much nicer! That immediately got rid of most of my cabin rattles. Boy, was my ride bad before. That was in "comfort". I can't begin to describe how horrible it was in sport.
They replaced the dual horn, because mine went bad. They also replaced the wood trim on the driver side door. They kept ordering the wrong color. My original Myrtle was almost chocolate in color. The ones that they get now are much lighter. Just about all my wood has now been changed. The only problem now is that for some reason or another, the headlight washer isn't working. I'm wondering if they disconnected a plug while working on the horn.
So, after about a year, I've finally got just about everything done. Now all I need are new tires and an alignment. Speaking of alignments, I've noticed that my Touareg is the only vehicle I've ever driven that will continue to drive in a circle with the wheels turned, even when you let go of the wheel... while going forward. In other words, if you turn the wheel enough and accelerate, the wheel will tend to turn further until it locks. Other cars will straighten out as soon as you release the wheel, if you are going forward (not in reverse). Ok, there are 3 questions on this post: The deal with the bushing, the deal with the headlight washer and the deal with the wheel that doesn't straighten itself out.
I am having an issue with the car not feeling stable on the highway or at speeds over 50mph when I am on a curve and go over a roadwork patch. The cabin of the car seems to float way too much to the side, almost like hydroplaining although the wheels stay put on the road.
After describing this to a mechanic, he said it sounds like my lower control arm bushings are gone. He looked at them and confirmed it, the rubber bushings that control the side to side action are cracked and worn out. He said that he is unable to just replace the bushing and has to special order the whole arm from the dealer (approx 200$ each arm).
I went to get a second opinion and another mechanic basically told me the same thing except the price on the part went down to 175 per arm with 2-3 hours labor.
I'm having trouble removing the front bumper. Does it remove like the GTI or is it different? I don't have the confidence to pull harder without knowing.
View 2 RepliesTrying to change the front sway bar bushing with a PU version? Does it improve handling and steering feedback?
View 1 RepliesI need to remove the front bumper cover of my Mk6 GTI. I think I know how to do it.
View 1 RepliesHow do you remove the front and rear rotors, Any DIY's out there I didn't see.
View 2 RepliesSo I am in the process of removing my front silver grill to paint it and was wondering do I need to drop the whole bumper to get it off??
View 16 RepliesI have a 2008 2.4 lots of movement in front sway bar so trying to change bushing. Have it on a hoist and still can't get to the rear bolts to remove them have 3 different socket sets power ratchet and different spanner sets. Is there a DIY write up on this or pictures as I have not been able to find one?
View 3 RepliesFor some months, I've heard squeaking noise from passenger side suspension. Sound like it's from shock & spring on bump road.
This video sound is very similar : Squeaking Noise, Front Driver Side - YouTube ...
I looked at my suspension. and found rubber bushing is broken. Driver's side bushing is normal.
Is this noise related to the broken bushing?
Is it easy to replace the rubber by myself?
A guy said ATP AT-205 reseal will fix this noise in Youtube video. Is it true?
How To Fix Squeaks In Your Car - YouTube ....
I have a 2002 echo, and I need some work done on it. I'm pretty sure that my engine mounts are bad, and I know that my front bushings are shot. What should I expect to pay for the bushings/mounts to be replaced? Also, how do I know if my engine mounts are bad? Note that I am a college student living on campus, so doing the bushings will be next to impossible.
View 2 RepliesI'm working on a couple of repairs and have encountered a few questions:
1. Are the bolts supposed to come out of the top of the end link? Mine don't so I don't know if that's the way it is or mine are so far gone that they are frozen in the sleeve. My poly bushing kit does not have any new bolts so I'm hesitant to lay into it with a 10 ton press and ruin the bolts (I don't know how much they are from Ford to buy or if I can even buy them).
2. HPO rail plug. I'm removing my HPX as I'm tired of it leaking (hopefully when my HPOP comes back as a T500 I won't need it anyway). I've seen 33 ft-lbs and 96 ft-lbs. As I go towards the 96 ft-lbs it feels like I'm going to strip the threads out so I backed off and they are at 33 ft-lbs now (I don't need that headache and my wife would go through the roof). I got the ones from Riffraff as I misplaced the ones I took off 8 years ago (go figure). The HPO line connections to the head (or pump for the matter) are 19 ft-lbs. I use Loc-Tite on those but both have an o-ring (which provides most of the seal) so I'm not to keen on gronking the rail plug.
3. I'm also replacing both HPOP gaskets. I know that the HPOP and reservoir mounting bolts are 18 ft-lbs (from Ziggy. in the tech sticky) but is there a spec for the cover bolts too? I know the gasket provides the seal but I'd like to make sure that the force is distributed evenly across the gasket (Sous isn't the only OCD person around).
Hopefully this fixes most to all my oil leaks (still have to tackle the oil cooler). The valley is covered (as well as the front of the reservoir) and there is a lot of weepage on the paper towel test. There are years of buildup everywhere and will take a few tries and several cases of Simple Green to see the metal again.
The driver side front body mount bushing on my 2014 is gone which has the grill sitting on the bumper. I started to replace it, but the bolt is sized to the nut. ran off about 1/2 inch and that is it, it will not tighten or loosen anymore.
I cut the head off the bolt, but can not get the body high enough to remove the old bushing so i can cut the nut off flush with the rad support. Now I am trying to get the air filter box out so i can cut the top of the "nut cage" off to remove the bolt and nut out the top. but i can not figure out how it is held in.
I have the intake disconnected and the filter hat off, overflow tank hose disconnected, and two bolts holding the whole thing to the fender out, but it will still not budge. What am I missing here?
Installed some shifter cable bushings. But now reverse is harder to get to. Instead of just pushing it down and left for reverse.. Now I have to tilt the shift know slightly towards 4th gear then push down and go left and the gate seems so much smaller now. Overall it doesn't feel that much better than stock. what could i have done wrong?
View 6 RepliesI was driving my car and forgot to turn esp off, hit boost in 2nd gear and the traction control did it's thing. didn't notice anything while driving so I didn't think anything of it. once I got home to back into my driveway, I noticed that when I turn the wheel sharply (at a standstill or very low speed) there's a clunking coming from what seems like the passenger front. I'm hoping it's not the inner cv. What it could be? I know for a fact it started right after the traction control kicked on so that's what caused it.
View 8 RepliesFront lower control arm bushings are completely separated. Looking to upgrade in some way to poly bushings or some other sort of performance setup.
View 4 Replies