Golf IV R32 :: Turbo And Headspacers
Jan 20, 2013
What is the point that the headspacer fitment doesn't affect the fitting of the upper timing chain considering that the time chain rails etc are brand new also i have seen fitment with a 2mm headspacer plus a spilt oem headgasket which is rougly 0.65mm to give 9,1:1 cr if i am not mistaken,is this the limit then if going with two full oem headgaskets and a 2mm headspacer which will give us a result of 8,8:1 cr do u think that the timing chain will not fit?
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Will a 2011 Chevy Cruze 1.4L turbo engine wear out / break down / fail sooner than a 2011 Chevy Cruze 1.8L engine ( w/o the turbo ) ? Both being automatic transmissions. Driven by the same person. What is the gas mileage difference between the same two ?
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So yesterday i decide to race one of my friend and a couple of seconds later i get a CEL. So today in the morning i went to autozone to check what the problem is with a scanner and i get this:
Did i f up my turbo? I am APR 2+ with only 4700 miles, what should i do?!
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I've been struggling with this issue for several months now and cant find the issue. My R32 is fully build 6767 turbo and all supporting mods, it has UM 870cc tune and a PRO Maf. Suddenly it started being too rich at idle, wont even start some times and when you press the gas it dies. When MAF is disconnected it will start but when pressing the gas it will die also. Fuel system is a twin 044 Bosch and OEM fuel pump with a FPR. Been trying with different fuel pressure but it doesn't change anything. What could it be the problem?
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I was wondering if most of you here cool down your turbo for a minute or two before turning your car off after driving it kind of aggressive for a while? In the past I've heard people say "Most turbo failures happen from improper warm up and cool down".
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I got my R flashed about a month ago and decided to do a little run 2 days ago at my local track (BYW I am APR stage 1+) Because I thought the software removed the speed limiter of 125 MPH, I was suprised when car got to 135 and completely stopped accelerating. When I slowed down, it was like the car had no turbo. I would press on the gas and it would barely move.
Idk if it was the turbo or the software. When I stopped I turned off the car and turned it right back on and BOOM, it was back to normal. So yesterday, the same thing happened at 110 MPH and I restarted it and everything was back to normal but now the Engine Malfunction Light is on but everything is working fine.
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Dropped her off at the dealer for the 30k service and minor oil leak near the turbo.
-Water pump replaced (never did whine nor did I notice it leaking)
-Valve cover gasket replaced
-Oil inlet line on turbo leaking
-Wastegate clamp
-Driver side window regulator
Already had my intake mani replaced around 25k miles. Hopefully this will cover all the known/dreaded Mk6 issues. My 1.8T was bulletproof.
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Well I have been working on my build for about 2 1/2 years. Built the motor for the turbo set up that I had on the car and a few other goodies.
Now the motor turns over with no issue and I have spark. So I know my problem lies in the fuel delivery. My pump tested fine and I have fuel at the rail. So my next guess is the injectors. After trying to start the car I pulled 2 spark plugs out and they where dry. So this proved to me there's an issue here.
Before I go and rip my manifold off and start pulling injectors is there anything I could check first? I'm thinking from sitting that have gotten dirty and clogged.
Looking for wire diagram for the injectors on the vr6?
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I have a 2012 R with 85,000 miles, APR chip running 93 octane with a HPFP and VWR cold air intake. I was driving my car today (slow driving on highest) and all of a sudden I felt no turbo boost, and heard a weird sound whenever I hit the gas. Car moved but would not get above 3500 rpms and couldn't really get past 60 mph. Again, absolutely no boost (I have a boost gauge as well to verify).
About to drop off the car at a shop but had a couple questions:
1. If the turbo is blown, can I still drive the car to the shop (not too far) without damaging the engine itself?
2. if the turbos needs to be replaced, what are my options besides getting the stock turbo replaced, without getting some crazy setup? This is my daily driver and I don't want to spend money beyond what I need to get it fixed, but it there is a stronger more reliable turbo for about the same as a OEM, I would want to consider... Also price for OEM replacement??
3. Without the mechanic looking at it, I'm just assuming it's the turbo but what else could be the issue? All the lines looks intact and intake is fitted correctly. I did have issues with my cam follower getting damaged at 45,000 miles (there was a hole in it) and I have been replacing it every 20,000 miles since. Didn't have any issues for 40,000 additional miles, but could damage to that cause turbo failure?
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I noticed over the last couple days what feels like loss of traction. When the turbo kicks in around 38-4k I get this rumble that i think is wheel spin. Am i wrong here? is that what that is or clutch slip?
Havent noticed any traction light. Is this haladex? I don't know where to start here.
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I have a GTI with a turbo that leaks oil.I don't exactly know what to do. The guy i bought it from said it had "Bad Seals" I've seen many rebuild kits online for my turbo(KO3) Looking through the kits i really only sea one seal. One single O-ring. So that doesn't seem right but this is my first turboed vehicle so i can honestly say I don't know much. Should I buy the Rebuild kit or should I just buy a new Turbo? Any video to reference too because i don't even know how to remove my turbo.
Also, on a side note. I was being a show off one day and tried speeding off like a dick.I went from first and grinded HARD into second and since then I haven't had first gear. Now i suspect its my synchros. But like i've said before. I don't know much.
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So, I have a 2005 gti 1.8t, has 110k on it, just did a 3" straight pipe, and while a buddy and I were installing my new pipe, and straight pipe, he said my turbo seals were going bad. I could get the k04 cause it handles better, or get a rebuild kit. Well, today when I give it throttle, it almost makes a knocking sound from the turbo? Not from the front of the car, but at the end of straight pipe, you can hear it in that constant spool. What could this be? Time for the k04. Car has unitronic stage 2, so it gets ran hard sometimes.
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I have this odd turbo squeal in 1st and 2nd gear WOT at low rpm... turbo is new and was replaced in june of this year... had no issues with it up till probably a few weeks ago when the squealing started... it doesn't happen in any other gear at WOT, just 1st and 2nd... where do I start looking?
Here's a video of the squeal : [URL] .....
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Ever since I made my car turbo (UM tune) my long term fuel trim has been stuck in 0. When talking to Tom over at Innovative Motor sports (they were the ones that got my tune done) he stated that I must have my N80 ( Evap Purge Valve) unplugged, except that I didn't. Until recently, I had every single sensor plugged in except for my SAI pump and the flapper solenoid for the exhaust. My LTFT worked fine before and he can't figure out anything else that could be wrong. So before I send back my ECU to see if a refresh will fix it, what else should I look for?
For more info, my gas tank is venting to the atmosphere, I just have the solenoid connected electronically. This worked fine on my 1.8T so I don't see why it should be any different here. My short term fuel trims fluctuate mostly in the -10 range and off idle drivability could improve a little (thought it's not terrible) and I think that if my LTFT's were working right, it would take care of that.
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I've been noticing over the past few weeks that in the 1,5-3k RPM range, usually more under load (e.g. going up a hill, in traffic) that the turbo sounds like its venting boost more/earlier. It's normal acceleration too, not WOT!
Now, I might not have recognized normally, but my girlfriend's MKIV 1,8t just exhibited the same sound (more noticeable), and it turned out to be the hose to the "pancake pipe"/intercooler came loose. It's kind of the same "hissing" that you would hear if a DV/hooter valve is bad.
I know what the normal "pssst" when taking the foot off the gas should sound like. And that happens at highway speeds and normal acceleration.
So, before I bring it in - is something like this normal on the MKVI 2,0? Is it supposed to be venting to atmosphere during that higher-load acceleration, like going up a hill? Once we got her 1,8t fixed, it doesn't make a sound other than normal turbo pressure release at expected times.
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My wife just got his car and she loves it!. its a 1.8t 5 speed. Runs and drives awesome. She had 2 new beetles before this one with the same motor but they both had 2 1/2 exhaust from the turbo back. The jetta will be done soon but it has this slight growl when its idling sometimes. Doesn't seem like its every time or may be it seems more when its warmed up. We had just changed the timing belt and tensioner and water pump but we did it 2 days after we got it so I am not sure if it did it before or not.
Kinda sounds like a bad needle bearing where when you spin it and can feel little bumps in it...don't know if that makes sense or not. You can kind of feel it when your sitting in it but its hard to say because we just got it. I don't remember the beetles doing it though but may be the exhaust kinda made it less noticeable. It did have a code about exhaust something bank 1?? I am thinking the cat might be bad or the o2 sensors. i have more sensors im gonna try but when i do the exhaust I know the light will be on anyway.
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While I'm in the engine troubleshooting the AC system, I figured I may as well get into a few other issues I've noticed.
I have a stock 1.8T and my turbo feels like it's surging occasionally. A few months ago my diverter valve started making the "blow off sound" when I shifted (manual transmission).
Is it possible for a faulty diverter valve to dump the boost overboard and cause the turbo, and engine hp, to surge? It almost feels like I let my foot off the gas for a second or two (i.e., engine power is very peaky).
A second thing that comes to mind is a clogged fuel filter. I know VW does not recommend ever changing it so it's never been done. Is this a possibility as well?
Air filter is clean, by the way. There's a K&N washable one in the stock air box and I can see daylight through it so it's not too dirty.
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I noticed that the turbo sounds kind of weird when it first spins up in 2nd and 3rd gear. Kind of a rattly whoosh noise before the normal whistle. Is it normal? I thought it was the "noise maker" thing, but FWIW the 2011's don't have it.
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I have noticed that when I have my ac on, I can hear the turbo spool and release noise (pshh sound) more prominently. I drive a 2011 GTI MT. Car is bone stock.
I was just curious to see if this is normal or indicative of a boost leak? If it was a boost leak, would there be a CEL?
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So I recently got this GTi and I was wondering what steps I should take before putting a bigger turbo on this car and the steps I should take when putting a bigger turbo. What should I do first be for considering a new turbo?
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My car is a VW golf GLS 1.8L Turbo 4dr Hatchback with a manual transmission, and has had modifications to the intake as well as the exhaust. Recently the clutch would grind every time I shifted gears and let go of the clutch. When I would let go, there would be a grinding noise that I could feel at my feet, but the car would still go albeit a slower rate. I could eventually reach a higher gear and then drive normally around because the grinding would lessen as I shifted to higher gears. In addition to the grinding, there was a faint smell of burning coming from the front left wheel. I was wondering if this is because I need to replace my clutch?
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