Golf V R32 :: Fuel Trim Stuck In 0 In Turbo Mode
Apr 16, 2016
Ever since I made my car turbo (UM tune) my long term fuel trim has been stuck in 0. When talking to Tom over at Innovative Motor sports (they were the ones that got my tune done) he stated that I must have my N80 ( Evap Purge Valve) unplugged, except that I didn't. Until recently, I had every single sensor plugged in except for my SAI pump and the flapper solenoid for the exhaust. My LTFT worked fine before and he can't figure out anything else that could be wrong. So before I send back my ECU to see if a refresh will fix it, what else should I look for?
For more info, my gas tank is venting to the atmosphere, I just have the solenoid connected electronically. This worked fine on my 1.8T so I don't see why it should be any different here. My short term fuel trims fluctuate mostly in the -10 range and off idle drivability could improve a little (thought it's not terrible) and I think that if my LTFT's were working right, it would take care of that.
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I have a 2005 Golf GL trim 2L SOVC. For months now the car won't start on the first try. One must let off the key and disengage the starter then reengage. It always starts the second try and never starts the first. Once the engine runs for a few seconds, if you turn it off, then start it again, it immediately starts. It's never a problem en route. Only if you let the car sit for a while, say 8hrs or more, (when the fuel pressure dies) do I observe this "no start on first try" behavior.
I recently replaced the plugs and fuel filter and cleaned the throttle body. It's a little better now. It stumbles like it is going to start on the first try after sitting but doesn't.
I exposed the fuel pump and measured the voltage going to it. When you turn the key to "on" position, the engine computer put's voltage to the pump for about 1.5 seconds and that's it. So while you are cranking I guess it expects that 1.5 seconds of pump operation is enough. I put my fuel pressure guage on the port near the injectors, and, as I suspected, the pressure only builds to about 28lbs. On the second try it gets up to 40. Once running it's about at 45lbs.
Sounds like a firmware bug to me.I'm considering wiring in a switch that I can toggle to deliver more on time to the pump inititally - maybe 3 seconds? Is this normal?
I noticed that when I put the fuel pressure gauge on initially there was zero pressure. Is this normal?
Shouldn't a check valve keep it at pressure? Where is the check valve located? I'm also getting a P0171 code "engine too lean". I repaired a hole in the air hose going from the air pump to the throttle body - still get the code. All hoses look good.
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2003 Jetta 1.8T. My car has an issue when you're driving and want to take off. I try to step on it and the car gets stuck. There isn't a CEL and one doesn't flash while it happens. The turbo attempts to spool and then gets stuck almost like sputtering and then misfires. "Sputtering" can last anywhere from a second to until you let off the gas. If you slowly climb through the revs it doesn't do it but if you punch it you're guaranteed to get stuck. I don't have a boost gauge to see if it's spiking but I'm running out of money, time, and options. I've had my car at my normal shop and they can't figure it out and the dealer techs are stumped too. Oil was changed last month and I did a seafoam treatment before I changed the oil.
Mods:
- CAI
- Unitronic Stage 2
- 225 TT DV
- Techtonics 2.5" DP with high flow cat followed by 2.5" straight pipe
- ST Coilovers Maxed out
- Corvette Sawblades 17x9.5 square with 38mm and 33mm adapters. Front and rear tires are different tread, and size. Fronts are all season 205/40/17 and rears are a summer 215/45/17
- Fresh wheel bearings and custom Porsche 930 Chromoly axles
Things that we've tried:
- New MAF
- Flashing back to stock and reinstalling the file as welling as trying lesser flashes (stage 1, 1+)
- New plugs
- New coil packs
- New throttle body
- Boost leak test (no leaks)
- Front o2 sensor
- New crank position sensor
- Throttle body position sensor
- New N75 valve
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I have 1 month left on my AAMCO rebuilt transmission. I took it in a few weeks ago when it went into "limp mode" (Stuck in 1st gear). Eventually, they got an error code of P0730, which I believe is electrical-related. All was pretty good but then today, driving @ high speed on the interstate, I could not get into 4th gear...
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Just filled up with Shell V-Power 91 Octane Fuel for the first time in my MKVI Golf 2.5
I know 91 isn't needed in this car but I like filling up with good fuel every once in a while.
After filling up my check engine light came on right away, also my engine wont allow me to go over 3k RPM.
Why did this happen and what can I do to fix it?
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I am having a "made you look moment" that I thought was a blessing only to figure shortly after that it was just a very very evil joke. So what happen was I turn my car on after it has been sitting for about an hour and half in the shade in 80-90 degree breezy weather, the fuel guage decided that my half tank of gas was not enough and so it figured out a way to osmosis itself and create a full tank instead. Even my miles to empty rose too at the same time. the odd part was all I did was turn the car on to idle.
What gives? I have a new gas cap so its for sure not that, there is gas in the tank too. At first i thought it might be the floater in the tank getting stuck on something but then I thought it may be fumes from the heat causing a pressure build up. So I decided to drive the car to see if any change would occur and it did. It was dropping from full down a 1/4 then stayed there. I figured if I gas it a tad more it might suck up the fuel fumes or something and sure enough it did. It dropped back down to the original amount.
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So I have a bad map sensor and lately my turbos been going in and out of limp mode. I recently just replaced with a new n75 valve and it solved the problem for about a week and now it's acting up again. Its not a constant problem it occurs usually every 20 starts. Could the map sensor be the reason why my car is going into limp mode?
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So my CEL is on. My turbo seems like it's constantly on, there doesn't seem to be any boost, and lowered power. So I have been wondering what this could be.
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Car Throwing This Code ... P2096 Post Fuel Trim Too Lean-B1 ...
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I just got this 2008 santa fe a month ago from the dealer with 80.000 miles , and then yesterday the check engine light came on, i took it to auto zone and the put the computer and this 2 codes came up:
P2187
Fuel trim system lean at idle
explanation
the average long term fuel trim values at idle are more than 30% for 10 seconds
probable cause
- low fuel presure
- failed MAF sensor
- large vacuum leak
- cylinder misfire due to ignition system failure
P2189
System too lean at idle bank 2
explanation
failed MAF
probable cause
- low fuel presure
- vacuum leak on engine
- failed HO2S ( heated oxygen sensor-bank2 )
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I found on internet loads of comment about this error code, but in my case the only bad thing is with fuel consumption - about 9-10 litres (!) for 100 km on motorway. Normaly it should be about 6-8 litres.
The error means: "P1128 is "Long Term Fuel Trim Too Lean". Which means the air/fuel mixture is leaner than the HO2S can compensate for."
Idle is working correctly (i think thats to do with MAF), engine start without any problems and overall car running smooth.
What can cause a bad fuel consumption? Is anything to do with a lambda (O2) sensor or it could be something else?
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Mercedes Benz 2000 C230 Compressor has fuel problem. Replaced fuel pump pressure checks were normal. Scan read fuel trim malfunction cylinder misfire detected...Where do I go from here?
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Have a system lean code popping up. long term fuel trim at idle is 14. No misfire counts. adjusted fuel trim from full rich to lean still no misfire counts. When on test drive and found after accelerating on the freeway soon as i take my foot off the gas pedal long term fuel trim jumps to 29 and multiple cylinder misfires start to occur. I take car off freeway and at stop light can feel misfire and fuel trim still at 29. coast it into the shop and at idle LTFT down to 10-14. Sprayed brake clean all over intake manifold but wasn't able to register any change in fuel trim. Fuel pressure is within spec. Cleaned MAF and Replaced with known good. LTFT still high
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Stuck turbo and high deltas so I replaced the oil cooler, coolant, thermostat, rebuilt turbo. Etc etc. Now I'm getting p2284/p2285 intermittently. Upon inspection ICP looks great at idle and 2500. IPR at hot idle is 20.9 but when you run it up to 2500, it drops to 14.7 and after a few seconds hpop at idle jumps to 875 and I get the p2284/2285. Bad IPR?
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I am replacing the turbo on my 2005 f350 6.0. I have the passenger side mounting bolt and the rear mounting bolt out, but cannot get the driver side bolt to budge. I have sprayed it with WD40 and PB Blaster and tried a breaker bar. No luck breaking it loose. I am afraid I might round off the head even though I am using a 6 point socket.
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Every once and awhile when I take off in the c the car drains the battery like it gets stuck in ev mode. The ev light will be off and the ice will be running but from a dead stop take off, the instant Mpg will read between 50 and 75 Mpg till it drains the battery gauge .
After the drain it works normal charges the drained battery and might not happen again for a couple of hours or a month there is no time period it happens.
Does this sound like a normal hybrid behavior? That's what I thought at first but because of the inconsistency of the behavior.
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My wife has a 2006 santa fe 3.5l limited over the winter it started acting up went into limp mode and would only go 20mph so I went and picked up a TP sensor well it went out of limp mode so I never changed the sensor well last month it started doing it again so I changed it out didn't work!!! comes up with 2 codes sometimes p2110 and p2118 but normally its p2110 2 times.
If I hit the break it kinda bogs down and pulsates.i took it to my mechanic since I couldn't figure it out and with advice from a hyundai mech. He changed APS didn't fix it so we changed throttle body with used of course didn't work I checked wires and didn't fined any open circuits what are the chances that i got a bad APS or TPS...
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I am the proud owner of a 2001 2.7L V6 Santa Fe. His mileage is roughly at 170,000 and I keep up with fluids and minor repairs (except an oil change, oops). Yesterday I was out with my fiance and our German Shepherd, we stopped at a restaurant and while we were inside our dog decided to redecorate the gear shift (PRNDL) with my ice tea. I noticed a problem immediately.
When I started to drive, there on the dash board was the normal "D" with and added "1" as if it were stuck between automatic and sports mode? I attempted to shift it to full sports mode to manually shift; I couldn't get him (the truck) to go above first gear, and nothing happened. I then attempted to fiddle with the gear shift to see if I could some how "knock" it back into automatic but nothing I tried worked.
The truck shifts easily into reverse, there's no abnormal sound coming from the engine, it drives just fine but refuses to go above first gear. I did discover tho that if I shift the engine quickly into neutral while driving and then down shift back to "D", the engine will shift easily but I assume this is not good on my transmission.
D and 1 light are on
Won't shift past first gear
Reverses just fine
Kicking it to neutral then D will shift the engine
Spilled something on the gear shift
I will try to upload a photo of what's going on with my dashboard lights referring to the "D" and "1" light.
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My tranny is stuck in limp mode. I can manually shift it, but it won't shift on it's own. The 'automatic' part of the automatic transimission is definitely not working right.
I searched and checked for the usual suspects, low battery or alternator output (measured over 14v at batt. when on), and the range selector switch. I removed the switch, took it apart, cleaned it up, and reinstalled it. It looked like it was in decent shape inside, although it appeared to have had a bit of oil of some sort that had leaked into it. There was a bit of oil on that side of the tranny, around the gear selector and switch, but not enough to actually drip as I don't have any stains on my driveway where I always park. The only thing I haven't checked is the atf fluid level, as I can't seem to find the my wrench that will take off the fill nut. I'll get that figured out tonight.
The tranny hasn't been taken care of like it should, I've had the fluid replaced two or three times over 100k of ownership, but I'm not sure about the filter. Would the need for a filter and fluid change cause it to go into limp mode? Also, it's not throwing any CEL codes either.
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My 99 Monte Carlo LS has a problem with the ac and the heater being stuck in the defrost mode. The heater and the ac work fine but it won't switch to anything else. I heard this could be a vacuum prob. I found a hose that runs from the top of the upper intake manifold. It goes to a T then one end to the firewall and the broken end is by the battery. I don't know where the broken end goes.
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I have only driven my car a handful of times, but I noticed the past two times, that it sticks in 5th gear during the time that the oil temperature finally gets above the 1/4 mark until it finally settles.
It doesn't stick before reaching the quarter mark, and as far as I can tell, it doesn't stick in auto mode. This doesn't sound like something that should be normal, but what say you?
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