Prius C :: Car Drains The Battery / Gets Stuck In EV Mode
Nov 12, 2012
Every once and awhile when I take off in the c the car drains the battery like it gets stuck in ev mode. The ev light will be off and the ice will be running but from a dead stop take off, the instant Mpg will read between 50 and 75 Mpg till it drains the battery gauge .
After the drain it works normal charges the drained battery and might not happen again for a couple of hours or a month there is no time period it happens.
Does this sound like a normal hybrid behavior? That's what I thought at first but because of the inconsistency of the behavior.
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I have noticed a mid-pitched humming noise in my '02. I first noticed it about a week after getting four new tires put on it. It is speed dependent, and is most noticeable at about 35 mph.
Somehow I have gotten it in my head that the car might be stuck in "battery charge" mode. I can't tell easily because my car has a permanent power steering problem so I don't have the charge/power car diagram on my dash. I can still feel a difference when I shift into "B" when going downhill.
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I'm new to this technology. I bought 2008 t spirit prius . The battery drains in couple of miles. I don't know what to check .
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In comparing the battery drains on a Camry hybrid versus a Prius Gen II hybrid I discovered both have three stages of battery drains after a door open incident. On a Gen II Right after the door is open the drain was 1.37 amps.
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So this has happened to me a few times now in the cold temps. For my job I'm left to sit and idle every now and then after over an hour of driving.
I'll park my car, ICE will turn off, ICE temp at 195. Sit with heat on at 65 degrees. After about 10 minutes the engine temp will drop to about 110, which the ICE will start and warm up to about 135 and turn off. Hybrid battery stays above 55% and normally hits about 65% on every ICE start. (I have extra instrumentation installed to monitor)
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Purchased a 2006 prius not too long ago with just over 100k miles.
I like the car, I average about 42-44 mpg. It is really for my commuting. The question I have is it seems like my brake pump runs all the time. When I take my foot off the brakes, it runs, when im in a drive-thru, my battery drains super quickly, however if i put in park instead of leaving it in drive while in the drive-thru, it does not.
My only thought is there is something wrong with my brake pump and the way it drains batteries.
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So I got a 2008 model, only owner. It has 107K miles. I've noticed something the last couple months now. When I park the car in the garage after coming home from work it has a full charge, about 3 bars below top, it's at the max of the blue color.
When I start the car in the morning it still displays the same level. But after driving down the road about 3 blocks it seems to update slowly and drops the level, sometimes down to the brown, about 3 bars high. The car will run rough for a while almost every morning now since it's not using the hybrid battery to smooth things out.
Ever since owning the car I've noticed it can run rough sometimes normally, like when you're at a train crossing and the battery drops to 2 or 3 and the engine powers on to charge it up a bit. When I drive away you hear the engine a lot louder than usual as it seems to be running on engine only until the hybrid battery gets sufficiently charged and you feel a lack of power as you accelerate.
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Code says P1121 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Range/Performance Problem. I heard that was wrong and its really coolant control valve? The battery drains fast and the can runs like crap. Would this code be doing that to the car?
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I am the owner of a 2013 Pathfinder and a 2013 Altima. If I have both sets of FOB keys on me when I press the start button on my Altima the car goes into battery mode. Will not completely turn on or won't turn off. The only way to shut the car down is disconnect the battery, wait 20 minutes, and hope the car is completely shut down. Then try again and hope the car turns on.
I was told having both FOB keys on me causes interference and only carry the key I need. Besides that being absurd and can't do that because I drive my Altima in the morning and the Pathfinder at night to pick the kids up because the car seats are in there. So what I have been doing to avoid this problem is taking the Pathfinder FOB and putting in homemade aluminum foil bag so the car can't read that key. Nissan seems to think this isn't a problem.
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If I leave the radar detector on for two or three days and don't drive the car, the battery is so low it will not start the car. It is a 2005 Touareg with 25,000 miles. Can the battery be tested with the terminals under the hood, or does it have to be accessed under the seat?
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I have a 2004 touareg v6. When the weather drops below 40 degrees, the rear park lights come on and the battery drains. Is there a fix for this?
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The battery on my 4.2 liter inline 6 2008 chevy trailblazer is draining without the key in the ignition. I have checked the alternator, fuses, and starter with no luck. What might be causing this problem?
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Mom's 2002 Lincoln Continental has 80,000 miles. Recently she's noticed that after she exits the vehicle the brake lights will come on by themselves and stay on until it drains the battery. It has only done that once in her garage. It baffled us as to why her brand new battery was dead. We charged it and she drove it and it was fine. Where she works, she can see her car from her desk. Her brake lights just came on by themselves. How she remedies this is by going out and tap once on the brake pedal and light goes out and stays out. She only seems to notice it coming on right after she parks and gets out. Then, like I said, she can tap the brake pedal and make light go out and stay out.
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I have a 2008 F150 that the battery drains after sitting 4 days or longer. This has happened about a dozen times since I bought the truck and the dealer could never figure out why. Warranty is up now and it is STILL happening! I had corporate office insult me by telling me everything "checks out" and it is just like a cell phone. If you don't periodically charge it up, the battery dies. I asked her where I was supposed to plug my truck in at night and there was silence on the other end. I am 62 and have never had a car or truck do this from just sitting. The dealer insists everything checks out.
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A recently purchased 2001 volkswagen jetta. The car was working fine when purchased. It was sitting parked for about a month without being driven. Went to start the car and the battery was right dead. Started looking online and seen a dead battery can set the immobillizer system off. So figured if the battery was replaced with one that was charged everything would be good, it would just need the immobillizer reset. So the battery was replaced one that was charged and working. I was expecting the dash to have the little car with key in it light that tells you the system is active, and instead of the car not turning over at all that it would turn over start for split second then stall like its suppose to when in that mode. Instead, there is no light in the dash and it still doesn't turn over at all.
After about 15-30 minutes, I decided to check the battery with a battery tester again to make sure was all good. Now, when the load of the tester was put on the battery it dropped down to 10-11v. Keep in mind with the tester, before being put in the car, it tested fine with a load put on it. So I looked online again and found that is common with this car as well.
So now Im not exactly sure what to so. From what Iv read, I think I should pull every fuse, one at a time and test with ammeter and see if one of them is draining the battery. And if everything tests good there, that it must be a bad ground somewhere?
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My 2006 Nissan Hardbody does not want to start in the mornings. Ive established that this is due to a parasidic battery drain. Ive narrowed it down to the power windows. As soon as i take out the power window fuse the amp drainage reduces dramatically. Ive taken of the door panels and disconnected the switches, however the drainage remains. What else could i check.
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I have a 92 st, all stock. It was given to me by a friend that moved. The car was in very good shape before sitting for about two months (I had to go pick it up an hr and a half away, then replace the battery and starter).
The only issue it's had is the heater fan control will blow the circuit when turned on, which will kill my gauges, not to mention no fan. I removed the blower fan and bench tested it, seems fine. And with the fan unplugged, I can turn the switch on without blowing the fuse (it's possible that this plug is the only wiring from that switch, not sure).
My question is, is it possible this switch is short circuited and that's what is causing the fuse to blow? And is it possible this switch could be the source of my battery drain?
I was thinking maybe this was an ongoing thing, because the switch hasn't worked in a year and a half, before I got it. Perhaps this was draining the battery, but wasn't showing up because the car was being driven daily. I'm not sure what to do next but don't want to guess and start buying parts.
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Yesterday, at 8000 ft in the Arizona mtns, my 2010 Prius exhibited some strange behaviors. For several minutes the gas pedal was non responsive in the first half of it's travel, then it would lurch ahead in a jerky manner unlike it's normal behavior.
It seemed like the electric motor was not being engaged. It also seemed stuck in ECO mode. Pushing the economy mode button would not disengage economy mode. If I stepped hard on the pedal it would go, but not very well. After heading down the mountain to a lower elevation seemed to work.
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I've been working through with hard starting on my 2002 7.3 A while back I took my batteries to Autozone and had them check them. They said they were fine but because of my hard/no start situation cranking on it for a short time (couple of minutes) kills the battery. The transmission shop said that they had to charge it after sitting for a couple of days to get it started. I have a multi-meter and know how to check the voltage. I even have AE and it gives me the voltage. Are there any other tools or procedures to check the health of the batteries?
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I have a 2007 Prius and it will be my first car once I get my license. It has a bad traction control computer and is stuck in limp mode. I have a neighbor who has worked on these and will show me how to replace it. Right now I have two questions. I keep coming up with how to disable it not the actual part.
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I have a UK right-hand drive Prius gen 2 2006 T4 model.
My rear door on the driver's side won't unlock. it appears to be stuck in double locked mode. It cant be unlocked manually from inside the car and the lock button just springs back to lock position (as you'd expect it to do when in double lock mode).
I can lock/unlock the car other 3 doors using the fob, I can lock/unlock the cars other 3 doors using the internal button on the driver's door.
I suspect there must be a failure of the lock motor or solenoid inside the door but I cant figure out how to get the door unlocked just so i can get the trim off and check. What the cause or remedy could be?
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