Celica :: 1992 - Fan Switch Blows Gauge Fuse / Drains Battery?
Sep 23, 2013
I have a 92 st, all stock. It was given to me by a friend that moved. The car was in very good shape before sitting for about two months (I had to go pick it up an hr and a half away, then replace the battery and starter).
The only issue it's had is the heater fan control will blow the circuit when turned on, which will kill my gauges, not to mention no fan. I removed the blower fan and bench tested it, seems fine. And with the fan unplugged, I can turn the switch on without blowing the fuse (it's possible that this plug is the only wiring from that switch, not sure).
My question is, is it possible this switch is short circuited and that's what is causing the fuse to blow? And is it possible this switch could be the source of my battery drain?
I was thinking maybe this was an ongoing thing, because the switch hasn't worked in a year and a half, before I got it. Perhaps this was draining the battery, but wasn't showing up because the car was being driven daily. I'm not sure what to do next but don't want to guess and start buying parts.
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So I bought a Celica a while back and the fuse box is uncovered meaning the cover that tells you which fuse is for what is gone. I can't find the cover saying which fuse is what online anywhere. If someone has a '92 Celica and can take a picture of it, that would save the day for me. It's a 1992 Celica GT 5 speed, 2.2L. Note that there are two fuses missing in the picture. I'm working on it right now, that's why.
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This is occurring on a 1997 Land Rover Discovery, but I have read of similar problems on many other "modern" cars. When I start my car, the fuse for dash gauges blows. Then with the blown fuse, the next time I try to start the car, the switch will not activate the startee solenoid relay. If I replace the dash fuse it will start again, but blow the fuse instantly, thus perpetuating the problem. This car is a beater off-road truck and I am willing to just bypass the starter switch and run a hotwired pus-button switch directly to the solenoid. Will this bypass any critical electrical operations? Should I wire the switch through the existing relay, or should I install a completely separate "siolated" relay? I having trouble tracking down how/why the starter solenoid relay would be related to the gauges....and if it is a short in the current starer solenoid circuit, can I just direct wire it to eliminate the problem?
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After the drain it works normal charges the drained battery and might not happen again for a couple of hours or a month there is no time period it happens.
Does this sound like a normal hybrid behavior? That's what I thought at first but because of the inconsistency of the behavior.
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I'm new to this technology. I bought 2008 t spirit prius . The battery drains in couple of miles. I don't know what to check .
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In comparing the battery drains on a Camry hybrid versus a Prius Gen II hybrid I discovered both have three stages of battery drains after a door open incident. On a Gen II Right after the door is open the drain was 1.37 amps.
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So this has happened to me a few times now in the cold temps. For my job I'm left to sit and idle every now and then after over an hour of driving.
I'll park my car, ICE will turn off, ICE temp at 195. Sit with heat on at 65 degrees. After about 10 minutes the engine temp will drop to about 110, which the ICE will start and warm up to about 135 and turn off. Hybrid battery stays above 55% and normally hits about 65% on every ICE start. (I have extra instrumentation installed to monitor)
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After about 15-30 minutes, I decided to check the battery with a battery tester again to make sure was all good. Now, when the load of the tester was put on the battery it dropped down to 10-11v. Keep in mind with the tester, before being put in the car, it tested fine with a load put on it. So I looked online again and found that is common with this car as well.
So now Im not exactly sure what to so. From what Iv read, I think I should pull every fuse, one at a time and test with ammeter and see if one of them is draining the battery. And if everything tests good there, that it must be a bad ground somewhere?
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Purchased a 2006 prius not too long ago with just over 100k miles.
I like the car, I average about 42-44 mpg. It is really for my commuting. The question I have is it seems like my brake pump runs all the time. When I take my foot off the brakes, it runs, when im in a drive-thru, my battery drains super quickly, however if i put in park instead of leaving it in drive while in the drive-thru, it does not.
My only thought is there is something wrong with my brake pump and the way it drains batteries.
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So I got a 2008 model, only owner. It has 107K miles. I've noticed something the last couple months now. When I park the car in the garage after coming home from work it has a full charge, about 3 bars below top, it's at the max of the blue color.
When I start the car in the morning it still displays the same level. But after driving down the road about 3 blocks it seems to update slowly and drops the level, sometimes down to the brown, about 3 bars high. The car will run rough for a while almost every morning now since it's not using the hybrid battery to smooth things out.
Ever since owning the car I've noticed it can run rough sometimes normally, like when you're at a train crossing and the battery drops to 2 or 3 and the engine powers on to charge it up a bit. When I drive away you hear the engine a lot louder than usual as it seems to be running on engine only until the hybrid battery gets sufficiently charged and you feel a lack of power as you accelerate.
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The Issue: Dash display reads "Passenger Door Ajar", interior lights stay on, drains battery
Current Fixes I've completed
Sprayed electrical cleaner in all 4 door latch assemblies (didn't work)
Relubricated all 4 door latch assemblies with food grade lithium grease (didn't work)
Replaced passenger door full latch assembly (didn't work)
What is my next step? I have noticed that if I wedge the door lock button on the driver's side door into the lock position, the door ajar message turns off and stays off? I was thinking wiring or relay issues?
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Every time I replace the ac fuse it blows again sometimes immediately or later it never last more than a day.
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