Code says P1121 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Range/Performance Problem. I heard that was wrong and its really coolant control valve? The battery drains fast and the can runs like crap. Would this code be doing that to the car?
View 18 RepliesSo I got a 2008 model, only owner. It has 107K miles. I've noticed something the last couple months now. When I park the car in the garage after coming home from work it has a full charge, about 3 bars below top, it's at the max of the blue color.
When I start the car in the morning it still displays the same level. But after driving down the road about 3 blocks it seems to update slowly and drops the level, sometimes down to the brown, about 3 bars high. The car will run rough for a while almost every morning now since it's not using the hybrid battery to smooth things out.
Ever since owning the car I've noticed it can run rough sometimes normally, like when you're at a train crossing and the battery drops to 2 or 3 and the engine powers on to charge it up a bit. When I drive away you hear the engine a lot louder than usual as it seems to be running on engine only until the hybrid battery gets sufficiently charged and you feel a lack of power as you accelerate.
2005 Prius, 105K miles when the check engine light came on.
Scanner report: P1121 accelerator pedal position sensor range/performance problem.
Fix: Coolant flow control valve. (Even though it was still working)
Part number: 16670-21010
i have a 2005 Toyota Prius that the air conditioner wont work in. it has Freon in it the compressor wont kick so I did some research and my cooling fans aren't kicking on so I did a by pass test and the cooling fans motor is good they just wont kick on. I just replaced my 2 cooling fan relays and they still wont kick on. the check engine light was on in the car when I got it. it throws the code P1121 coolant valve control. I got the part just got to get it put on. Could this part stop my cooling fans from kicking on or my ac compressor from coming on.
View 3 RepliesSo this has happened to me a few times now in the cold temps. For my job I'm left to sit and idle every now and then after over an hour of driving.
I'll park my car, ICE will turn off, ICE temp at 195. Sit with heat on at 65 degrees. After about 10 minutes the engine temp will drop to about 110, which the ICE will start and warm up to about 135 and turn off. Hybrid battery stays above 55% and normally hits about 65% on every ICE start. (I have extra instrumentation installed to monitor)
Two weeks ago my CEL came on and the code was P1121. I checked the coolant level and everything seemed fine, so I figured I'd take it in soon.
View 2 RepliesI'm new to this technology. I bought 2008 t spirit prius . The battery drains in couple of miles. I don't know what to check .
View 5 RepliesIn comparing the battery drains on a Camry hybrid versus a Prius Gen II hybrid I discovered both have three stages of battery drains after a door open incident. On a Gen II Right after the door is open the drain was 1.37 amps.
View 11 RepliesWhat is the to cause to check engine light go off. I will take my car to auto zone tomorrow morning to hopefully get a code and see if I can fix it myself... if not, then I am going to have to go to the dealership.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2006 prius whose check engine light just came on 1 hour ago. I had it diagnosed and it is giving me the p1121 code, or the coolant flow control valve. I checked the coolant level and it was very low. I added fluid, but the CEL is still on. I have to make an 11 hour trip tomorrow.
View 19 RepliesAbout once a week my check engine light comes on. The code is P1121, which is about coolant valve sticking. In about one or one and a half days it times out and i dont get the warning light for another week or so. Do you think I should have something done right away or wait and see what happens?
View 1 RepliesOn my 05 Prius (65K miles) I recently had my local Toyota dealer replace both the inverter water pump (for free per recall) and main engine water pump (~$500 based on their recommendation because of some coolant leakage). 1 week later, I got the P1121 code coming off and on intermittently.
My dealer says that the work they did is not related to P1121.
We have a 2005 Prius with 77,400 miles on it. My wife came home from a short trip yesterday saying the engine was shaking the car and the CEL was flashing. About 4 months ago we also had the CEL come on but not flash and it ran a bit rough but not as bad as it is now. I was told by our local dealer that a flashing light is worse than if the light comes on and stays on. When this happened 4 months ago at 74,000 miles the dealer said they downloaded codes P300, 303, and 304 and that I needed to replace all 4 fuel injectors.
I realize that 300 is a general misfire code and 303 is a misfire code for cylinder 3 and 304 is for cylinder 4. After reading some advice on here 4 months ago, I cleaned my MAF sensor, ran some fuel injector cleaner through a tank of fuel, replaced all 4 spark plugs, and started buying Chevron gas. The CEL stayed off and our mileage went back to normal. I thought I had solved the problem but now this after 3000+ miles. I checked all the ingitors, connections, spark plugs, and wires yesterday and all seem to be in good condition. Maybe they were right and the fuel injectors are going bad. I am at a loss as what else to do other than take it back to the dealer now and plan do that this afternoon.
If I leave the radar detector on for two or three days and don't drive the car, the battery is so low it will not start the car. It is a 2005 Touareg with 25,000 miles. Can the battery be tested with the terminals under the hood, or does it have to be accessed under the seat?
View 4 RepliesThe check engine light on my '05 Prius has gone on and off a couple of times and is giving me a P1121 code, which I found out means "Coolant Flow Control Valve Position Sensor Stuck". Does this have anything to do with the hybrid electric coolant pump that was replaced under recall a while back?
View 5 RepliesMy check engine light was throwing the code P1121 for the coolant flow valve. Toyota replaced it under a warranty enhancement (I have 134k on it), and since then my mpgs have gone from 46 to 50.
My AC is working much better now, too. My theory is that the valve can be in a semi-failure mode for a long time before throwing a code. Now that My coolant is flowing the way that it should, heat is being dissipated more efficiently.
It's been a long week for me and my 2007 Prius. Brought it to the dealer after receiving my first ever CEL. I have 222,000 miles on the vehicle. The a/c was also blowing warm when the CEL came on. They checked that and told me that the compressor was "breaking up." Then they call me back to tell me that my 12V battery died. They asked me if I had problems with starting the vehicle. I said never. Never had any issues with the car in 222,000 miles.
Well, told them to replace the battery (no choice) and the car is 5.5 years old in Florida heat so it was ready to die. Very suspicious that it died while they had the vehicle, but what can I say. Told them to not repair the coolant flow valve or the a/c until I could investigate further on my own. CEL is now off. The a/c is blowing cool again.
We took our 05 Prius to the mountains on Sunday. Coming down the hill from Lake Tahoe the temp climbed to 98. Suddenly we got the red triangle warning and the Hybrid system warning light. The car ran fine and showed no symptoms of any problems. We took the car to the dealer Monday morning. They Read the code P0A82. They said the Battery cooling fan was not coming on and blamed the problem on dog hair. The warning light was off. The car ran fine going home with no warnings. My questions
1) Can/did the dealer reset the warning light?
2) Is there a way to verify that code P0A82 is a bad cooling fan.
Just bought a 2006 Prius, ironically only has 31,000 km on it.
Recently, mostly today, i noticed the battery has been draining quite fast. I was at 2 bars from full(or 3? whatever is pre "green") and probably 5-10min later i was 2 bars and the gas engine was running. Whatever seemed odd, maybe the traffic was a little slower today.
However i started driving 80kph and it took over 5 minutes for the car , without battery running, to bump from 5 bars up to 6. The electric motor was literally not driving the whole time, it was strictly gas the whole 5 min.
I was also considering taking this car for an inspection at the dealer just to ensure everything is okay before winter hits.
Every once and awhile when I take off in the c the car drains the battery like it gets stuck in ev mode. The ev light will be off and the ice will be running but from a dead stop take off, the instant Mpg will read between 50 and 75 Mpg till it drains the battery gauge .
After the drain it works normal charges the drained battery and might not happen again for a couple of hours or a month there is no time period it happens.
Does this sound like a normal hybrid behavior? That's what I thought at first but because of the inconsistency of the behavior.
I have a 2008 F150 that the battery drains after sitting 4 days or longer. This has happened about a dozen times since I bought the truck and the dealer could never figure out why. Warranty is up now and it is STILL happening! I had corporate office insult me by telling me everything "checks out" and it is just like a cell phone. If you don't periodically charge it up, the battery dies. I asked her where I was supposed to plug my truck in at night and there was silence on the other end. I am 62 and have never had a car or truck do this from just sitting. The dealer insists everything checks out.
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