Golf IV R32 :: Vibrations While Speeding - Gear Oil Leaking?
Oct 23, 2013
I'm getting ready to replace my front driver side CV joint when I see this.
I thought the joint was bad as there a tear in the outer boot, grease was thrown around on the wheel, and there was an nasty vibration when the car would coast at speed. This gear oil leak just showed up today (or at least this is the first time I've seen this).
The car was sitting for a couple of weeks with no pool of oil on the ground. I pull it into the driveway and all of a sudden its leaking from this location. Could the vibrations and leak be caused by something inside? I sure hope not. What the problem could be?
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I'm getting strange vibration when I hit around 4200rpm in ever gear. Car smooths out at around 5000 rpm. Vibration feels like it's coming from the transmission but it could also be coming from the axels. Original OEM axels were taken off the car by the previous owner. What this problem may be? I don't want to bust open the transmission if I don't need to.
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My R is vibrating in second gear near full or full throttle around 2,000 Rpm. It feels like a high frequency vibration. It seems to be only happening in that scenario. It's when the turbo spools up and there is a large rush of exhaust gas produced very quickly. My guess is that my apr downpipe paired to the stock cat back is the culprit. It didn't happen when I first put the downpipe on, but after the next track day it started. I don't know if there is anything to burn in inside the apr downpipe but it got louder too. Could it be back pressure from the stock cat back? It's very strange and I wondered if it is stage 2+ but running the stock cat back has felt this? I checked to see if the drive shaft was rubbing on anything and for any other visual indicators of rubbing around the downpipe and I see nothing. Perhaps it's the stock muffler. I'm just not sure.
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I have an 04 jetty with an auto Transmission. It doesn't seem to shift after the first time when speeding up. What might cause this?
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Drove over one of those median lane seperators. You know those pointed yellow curb type thingys. Of course my R is lowered, and afterwards I got out to see if I busted my oil pan. I see oil leaking!!! Limp my car to Auburn Vdub. They give me a loaner and send me on my way. I am thinking okay so I am out a couple hundred bucks for a new oil pan. Then I get the call...Broke my transmission case, it was gear oil leaking out! $11,000 later I get my ride back as good as new. Of course I turned it in to my insurance. They sent out an adjuster and ended up replacing various other parts besides the DSG that were also damaged.
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Is there a oring behind the Lock pin on the transmission? I notice I been leaking oil but its gear oil. I finally found it coming from my lock pin. Should I be worried???
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My 30 neon when driving will have deep vibrations. Me and my friend jacked it up to get under it since its a FWD car. My girlfriend started it up and put it in gear and there was nothing. So we checked the tires and they had no play the engine is fine no shaking/ idles smooth. So when we drop the car and we drive it does it. It puzzles me how when the car has no weight on it there was nothing but when we dropped it and drove around there was the noise/vibrations.
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I have a 09 Subaru Forester with 66k miles that vibrates like it is going over rumble strips when it up shifts from 3rd to 4th gear. It occurs under normal (not brisk) acceleration. I had the trans fluid changed at both the 30k and 60k services. I have owned this since new. It began before the 60k service. Also, sometimes the tach will increase revs during this as well. I don't know if this next thing is related but when I once need to merge quickly into interstate traffic I gave it a good amount of throttle and the tach revs increased but the trans did not follow with an immediate down shift.
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I'm still having vibrations at 75+ MPH. It's not the wheels, and the vibe went away when I removed the prop shaft, and came right back when put back in.I have replaced the CV joint and center bearing on the shaft, and the flex discs don't look bad.
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A friend of mine recently had a VWR intake installed in his R along with HPA dogbone mount. After the installation he noticed a lot of vibration in his brake pedal. He then had the dogbone mount removed and the stock put back in thinking that the mount was causing the problem. After doing that he still had the vibrations in his brake pedal. He then brought the vehicle back to the dealership who did the install for him. They couldn't find what was causing the problem. He later found out that his VWR intake was resting directly on top of the brake reservoir. Noticed vibrations in the brake pedal or notice that it is resting on top of brake reservoir? Can his intake be missing a bracket or installed improperly?
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Ever since I put in my stage 2 BFI mounts I've had pretty bad vibration at 2800rpm. After over 5,000 miles, these are the symptoms:
Some times are worse than others. I will be cruising at 2800rpm and my dash will be rattling. If I lift off the throttle and re-apply it, the vibration could lessen and stop dash rattling. I think once I hit a bump while maintaining 2800 and the vibration became less severe, almost as if the bump "sync'd" whatever was vibrating.Seems to be worst when engine braking. Causes dimple dash to rattle loudly against front dash area and rear view mirror shakes...vibrates when the car is in gear or in neutral
I'm leaning towards flywheel based on what I've read. Before I replace clutch/flywheel, what could be causing it?
Also curious what labor might cost on clutch/flywheel replacement, and if the "shim" kit thing is necessary to do for a stock setup. The shop is recommending machining something in there to fix the play issues with 02m?
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Recently i have been noticing a vibration that wasn't there a while back. I installed an Autotech insert about 5k ago, didn't notice it right away, but it's pretty pronounced now. Also have koni's, APR stg II, B&B TBE and APR intake if that's relevant...
The vibration is especially noticeable when i come to a slow stop, either in gear, clutch in, or in neutral. It's a relatively loud thumping that can be felt through the brake pedal, and through the car when foot not on the brake. Seems to get increase as I get closer to stopping, then lightens up a bit when stopped. If i take it off-idle while sitting still by a minimal amount, it completely goes away.
Also, from a gradual start, there is a brief but loud squeak / groan as the clutch engages. If i am a little more aggressive, it doesn't happen.
I do not beat on this car at all, don't launch it hard, or anything like that. Was thinking about taking the Autotech insert out to see if that changes anything, but my back isn't really feeling up to the task this weekend.
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I went out for a drive this morning to play in the snow before taking the car in for an alignment and oil change. Something strange happened. Just after I got to my destination, a snow covered round-about, I started feeling a vibration in through the steering wheel. I pulled to a stop because I hadn't hit anything, and didn't think my wheels had packed with snow and gone out of balance. Even when stopped the vibration was still there. I did a bit of investigating and found it to be that having the heater on full blast was the source of the vibration. Adjusting the fan speed one step slower reduced the vibration, and two steps down from full speed the vibration went away. It seemed most noticeable with the defrost and foot well vents functioning together, but happened on any vent setting.
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Searched through old threads but didn't come across these in particular, a lot to look through so may have missed in Car has 270 miles on it.
1) When clutch is in all the way and the car is revved, I can feel it in my left foot. This can be felt when car is stationary or in motion - Is this common for MK6/R? I don't recall being able to feel this in my MKV GTI
2) When the car is in motion, I hear a knock noise right after the clutch is pressed in. I can only hear the noise if windows are open and stereo is off, and this only occurs while the car is in motion. - Is this a standard clutch noise for healthy clutch/pp/flywheel/throw-out bearing on this platform, or should there be no noises? It sounds like something I'd expect to hear with a messed up throw-out bearing.
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MKV R32? I take Hwy 17 to and from work. It's a pretty curvy road with some of tight turns (fun) and a number of slight turns that have a little incline. Whenever I make a slight right turn (like a long sweeper), I feel a slight vibration under the pedals and it feels like the car is grinding.
It only happens on those slight turns at 50-65mph and I can only replicate the vibrations on a curvier road......The car is smooth as silk around town, on the interstate but not when it comes to those right hand sweepers.
The car has no problem taking full right hand turns or even handling a right hand hairpin. Could it be my tires?wheel bearings? alignment?need my tires rotated? I took it to the dealer and the mechanic and I couldn't replicate the problem on the interstate. The car has 8900 miles on it and I will need to take it in for service soon.
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Just got a DSG 2015 GTI 2-DOOR, and after 2 days of ownership, there is suddenly a shudder/vibration when I start the car in the morning.
RPMs start at around 1000, then drop to 750, and then 650, and the car starts to vibrate/shake a bit, almost like a heartbeat...
After engine oil temperature goes to ~80 Celsius, the shudder becomes much less pronounced. This all happens in "P", and doesn't happen in "D".
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I have about 2500 miles on my manual MK7 GTI (bought it with about 70 dealership miles) and ever since I got it it's been having these weird little backfires/slight sputtering while idling.
I'll be idling at a stoplight, and I'll feel a few little kicks/vibrations underneath my seat accompanied with a light engine shake. It's very hard to describe, but it's been bothering me since I got it, as none of my other cars have done it and I don't know what is causing it.
I have always pumped 93 octane gas and even made sure the dealership pumped 93 octane when they gave me the free tank. Not sure what they pumped before that.
I went to a Mobil gas station last night to top off my tank (a little under 1/2 full) and no later than 5 minutes after pulling away from the gas station, I was cruising in 4th gear at around 40-45 mph when I felt the engine sputter. It was only for a brief second or two, but I clearly felt the engine sputter then pick itself back up. This happened another 2-3 times on the way home.
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Experiencing slight vibrations in the seat, and steering wheel past 60 mph on the stock wheel & tire set up? I've got about 10k miles on my Pirellis and am thinking that all the winter driving (potholes) have knocked them out of balance. The VW dealer claims they balance fine, but I can feel the vibrations. Just wondering how everyone else is liking their stock set up.. Maybe a wheel has a slight bend? Nothing I can notice from a quick glance tho.
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I've got a GTI with a lot of engine vibrations, and I'm not sure if it's something to worry about or even if it's somewhat normal. I have 23,000 miles, Stage II for most of that. My motor ticks obviously but they all do. The idle is smooth (mostly, the needle never fluctuates it's idling at a specific RPM perfectly) but I feel little hiccups and inconsistencies in my steering wheel at a stop light.
Could this be bad motor mounts? Could this be a valvetrain issue? Is there any way to debug this?
I first noticed the issue (it might have been happening beforehand, but never noticed it) after getting my 20k dealer service. Until then I was changing my oil and filter every 6k with motul specific 5W-40. Could they have used a different weight of oil that might simply be changing the way the motor feels?
It seems the idling vibration characteristics of my motor have changed, and I'd like to fix the issue if one exists to prevent future damage to the motor.
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I'm a new 2007 Prius owner, and I know that the Prius is no sports car, but this acceleration is very slow. When I'm speeding up to get on the highway, it really sounds like the gasoline engine is working hard to get up to that speed. I've had cars in the past where the emergency brake gets stuck, can that be a probable cause, or is this type of slow, strenuous acceleration normal for the little Prius?
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For the last two years my old Sunfire (I've been its only owner) has been tugging while speeding up (happens at different speeds) and I have taken it to all sorts of mechanics and none have been able to solve the issue. The car had a faulty injector which was changed with a new original part, the transmission diagnosis have all come out negative, the engine is in great condition according to all the mechanics and the electromechanics I've been to have found no problems with the car whatsoever.
The car has around 130,000 miles and runs great, it just has these tugging episodes while accelerating and I have ran out of things to check in the darn car. The car is always up-to-date with maintenance and it's used for short trips the majority of time. What could be wrong with this car?
Another detail is that when the car is full (fuel) the tugging stops, but none of the mechanics have been able to find the relation between the fuel and the tugging.
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