Golf V R32 :: 2006 - Cooling Fan Keeps Kicking?
Feb 16, 2013
it can be 2* outside here in the winter and my fan will kick on even right after a cold start.
my rad. the fan kicks on and off randomly for some reason, when it does it makes my idle jump up a few hundred RPM's at the same time. it can be 20 sec. after I start my car, from a cold start, or anytime. AC is not on, as I leave it on the economy. this is in a 2006 A3 3.2 (not that it should matter)
are there any common issues that I should check? fan switch? or any other sensor that might be the cause?
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Lately, when I make a slight turn at fast speeds (i.e. freeway exit ramp), my car makes a sound like the anti-lock brakes are kicking in without me even touching the brakes. This doesn't happen all the time and can happen on the smoothest/driest of surfaces. More confirmation of ABS kicking in is the fact that the car slows down when I hear the noise.
I took the car to the dealership to investigate/fix this noise. The dealership said that the cause was uneven tread wear on the two front wheels (5/32 difference). This sounds like bologna to me. What do you think?
P.S. the car is a 2006 VW Jetta 2.0T
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So I've been getting this weird kicking from the rear end when I am accelerating medium-hard. It only happens for the first 3-5 minutes after I start up the car. I first noticed it months ago when entering a highway. At that point, during acceleration, it felt like the throttle was slipping. It would happen again and again in about 1-2 second intervals until I shifted out of gear.
During this "slip," the car stops accelerating briefly until it engages again, then it slips again... repeat. However, lately it has been much worse and has changed to a very prominent "kick" from the rear end. I can feel and hear a force from behind me, in addition to the acceleration stopping momentarily. It has started happening in low gears and lower speeds, too. It happened today just turning onto a road end speeding up to traffic in 1st or 2nd gear.
It definitely feels Haldex-related, like the Haldex clutch is slipping maybe? The thing when this happens I don't feel like I'm accelerating so hard that the front wheels slip and the Haldex kicks in, but maybe I'm underestimating the 4motion assistance.
I'm at about 77k miles, and I've read that every 40k you should get the Haldex serviced (oil & filter change). Could I just be due for that? Or might it be a much bigger issue?
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I'm the proud owner of a 2005 MK4 1.8t gti, and recently it started making a weird sound when it starts kicking in to boost, where it would normally make a whistle sound while the turbo spools up it now makes a sound that reminds me of a supercharged car, it feels like it could be a leak but I don't have an ecl popping up, it does kind of platoes in the powerband, I hope I'm making some sense ..
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I have a 06 f350 superduty with a 6.0 I have had injector problems before with the motor even hydro locking no start this is the problem my truck started blowing white smoke with a strong diesel smell everyone said it was oil cooler but I took it to a ford garage the guy said I had 2 injectors hung open and wasn't hydro locking and suggested to put all 8 in so I did 3400.00 not I went to pick it up had no power at all turbo was not kicking in so I took it right back to them they checked it out said turbo was sticking had to clean it it would take 6 hrs. said the fuel In the motor caused it it was working fine when I took it to them now they say maybe a new turbo are they giving me the run around or is this possible....
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I have a 2006 Passat 3.2 and a while back, I noticed that it would take the AC a very long time to cool, once it got temp down, it was fine. I checked low pressure and it is just perfect. I noticed, once car would cool down, and one gets to read light, after being stopped again, ac tends to get warmer. AC fan seems to be running fine and no errors on Computer. Miles 105,000
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2006 SD 5.4 born in WY so the AC was probably used a lot. 126k. The system is charged. The clutch gap was too wide and when I took the ac clutch off, and there was only one spacer in there. I removed the spacer and then my gap was too small. Without the spacer the clutch would come on for 2 seconds then go off for about 20.
At this point I still suspected the spacing, so this time I took the spacer and ground it down with my grinder (verry delicately). I put it back together and the spacing is better. The clutch now cycles on for several seconds longer than before, then turns off. Firmly pressing the clutch with a dowel does nothing at all.
With the gauges on the system, when the clutch is engaged pressure builds to the yellow caution zone (45+psi) then the clutch disengages and the pressure drops. There is no noticeable cooling in any of the above situations. Could my clutch be shot? Could my clutch be bad?
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I have a 2007 Sonata and It recently lt began to blow hot air out of one side and freezing cold out the other side. Took it to the dealer and the technician said he didn't know what was wrong but recommended that the system be evacuated and refilled at a cost of 281.00. Actually, what he said is that the compressor is either overfilled or underfilled.
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I'm working on 07sonata 2.4. The cooling fan is always on when key is on. I used to be a hyundai tech and remembered seeing something about the engine room fuse box and I have access to wiring diagrams. So in essence you go to connector jc01 pin 2 pink and connector je01 pin 25 pink. Cut the wires and connect them together bypassing the fusebox all together. But that didn't work this time. One thing I discovered is that if I touch my power probe to the heatsink of the fan control module I have battery voltage available. I first discovered this because I was removing said module and my 10mm touched it when it slipped a touch.
Is this 'hot' heatsink evidence of a shorted module? No codes in system. Ect tests good when hot and cold. A/c is not commanded on. Being that I used to be a tech for Hyundai I also know the engine fuse box can be touchy as well...
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Was just on a trip (about 200 miles or so each way) and the AC worked just fine.
Car has sat for a few days unused.....when I used it to day, the AC blows warm...doesnt cool at all.
I hooked up a gauge to the low pressure side and the pressure reads very high (in the red zone of the gauge).....
Cant tell if the compressor is kicking on or not when the car is running...
Car is 600 miles out of warranty (of course).
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My cooling fan races more than it used to. The coolant level appears to be fine. Could it be a faulty sensor and where is it located and is it something I can replace myself? The engine temp gauge reads in the mid range so the system isn't overheating.
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I have an 06 Passat 2.0T, and last night whenever I shut off the car, the cooling fan is constantly running. I had to unplug the battery so it wouldn't drain it, and about 5 hours later, I hooked it up and it stays off. I also noticed when turning on the air conditioning, the smaller fan doesnt kick on. I'm lost and don't know where to start. Could it be a thermal switch or the whole fan assembly
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I notice a high pitch squeal when I turn off the car ignition and is synced with the slowing of the engine cooling fan. I don't notice any significant engine noise while the car is fully running in idle. Does this indicate that bearings are going bad in the electric engine fan assembly? If so, would the noise alone be justification for getting a warranty replacement by the dealer or would they need a total fan failure in order to get it replaced under warranty at no cost. If not, think its worthwhile to replace the fan module myself to avoid imminent failure?
2009 Sonata GLS (NF) 50k Mileage
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When it's really hot out and I'm highway cruising my ac stops cooling for about 5 seconds when I let off my gas to slow down then I feel a small nudge and it's cold again.....
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I own a 2006 Prius with 52k miles on it. Great car BTW. The problem is simple, the radiator cooling fans stopped working on high mode; they run around 25% only even, not removing the heat from the a/c evaporator and the radiator coolant. I checked fuses: OK, checked relays: OK. They spin freely and nothing is blocking the front face of the evaporator. Funny I noticed it when I started hearing the a/c compressor buzzing noise and then I realized the fan noise wasn't there!
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08 Lexus GS350. Drove car Christmas Eve everything was fine, Christmas morning I go to start the car and it attempts to start once and before it cuts on it stops. Then anytime afterwards when I push the start button the starter doesn't engage and the radiator cooling fan comes on. I let the car sit for half a day and try to start it again I get the same cycle (it engages the starter but quits before the car turns over)...
- Battery is new as of September 14 (also took the battery to get checked 100% charged).
- I replaced the alternator in November 14
- I currently have the car at my mechanics but they can't figure it out as of yet. So far they are saying that the can't the cars computer to respond to their machine.
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The temperature gauge in my 2006 S60 2.5 T suddenly stopped working and I noticed that the cooling fan was stuck on relatively cool Michigan weather. In addition I also noticed a 2-3 mpg reduction in average fuel economy and a reduction in overall power. I did a little research and found that the 2006 2.5T models had an ECT recall. Turns out the ECM was telling the engine to operate at overheating conditions,due to a faulty ECT.
Picked up a new Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (OEM is recommended by most authorities for replacement sensors). I replaced the ECT without even removing the engine cover, it didn't fix the problem at first. Then I pulled the fuse for the ECM, a 5 amp fuse in the box mounted on the drives side fender, and let the ECM reset for a few minutes. Then, had the temp gauge back, and had peak engine performance at operating temperature.
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A/C takes a long time to start cooling, but after it starts it gets as cold as it should. Seems to do okay while highway driving after it starts cooling. Is this a low refrig problem or do I have bigger issues?
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I was wondering if most of you here cool down your turbo for a minute or two before turning your car off after driving it kind of aggressive for a while? In the past I've heard people say "Most turbo failures happen from improper warm up and cool down".
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Anyway after 40k my r cooling fan make really loud noise while idling. As i checked under the hood i only see one big fan is running. Are two fans suppose to run??.. I run a obdii test no code what so ever.
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My, auxilary cooling fan isn't working. However, the bigger (primary) fan is working fine. Fuses, looks ok and i see clutch is engaging fine too. well, the a/c is working but not as it used to before. Its cold but very faintly. I suppose this could be because of the not working auxiliary fan.
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