So I get in the car to drive back home, and after i start it wont engage gear, PRNDS flashing, cant get the key out, total drama. Called the dealer. I will tow it back to the origin where it came from. What it is. Shift solenoid failure... But f..ck knows with these things. It only took me 4589785115 times to get the key out...
View 18 RepliesI only put about 1k miles on it since I bought it and I started it today and my oil light was flashing along with the PRNDS indicators. I turned it off then turned it back on and everything was fine no flashing lights.
View 11 RepliesWhen I was driving home from work today PRNDS started to flash and i stopped my car and turned the ignition off, when I tried to start my car again nothing happens, Engine is not starting and the PRNDS flashed on the mfd. I had my laptop with me and plugged in vag-com to see if the error codes was the same people gets when mechatronic is failing but they was different and car should start even with bad mech.
The error codes i get is:
18149 - Clutch Pressure Adaptation: Limit Reached
P1741 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded
Fault Status: 01100001
18149 - Clutch Pressure Adaptation: Limit Reached
P1741 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded
Fault Status: 01100010
28775 - No Communication with Gear Selector Module
U0103 - 004 - No Signal/Communication
Fault Status: 01100100
00194 - Ignition Key Removal Lock
008 - Implausible Signal
Fault Status: 01101000
My car is in my garage and I have checked all of the fuses and removed/replugged the main contact to my mech box.
On my dash the prnds lights flash constantly. The car shifts fine and the paddle shifters work too.
View 2 RepliesJust put transmission back in car after getting 3/4 gear synchros replaced and tdi 5th gear installed. I adjusted the shift linkage multiple times and did the procedure 100% correct. Now, all gears work except for 3rd. I can't get into 3rd at all whether shifting with cables installed or just freely from tower.
View 4 RepliesMy03 GLI will not engage first or second gear.
This morning, i was having some issues getting the car in reverse, but it eventually engaged and is fine now. I drove to the barbershop, and on the way home, the shifter stopped engaging 1st or 2nd gear. it moves freely into position (TOO FREELY) and all other gears will engage. common sense tells me that the clutch is fine and the problem is with the shifter.
I have been reluctant to post another clunking thread because it's nearly impossible to accurately describe what is happening. But I have reached by breaking point and I wanted a few opinions before I take it into the dealer. I am still under powertrain warranty, but I want to be confident I am not wasting mine and the dealers time if I am just missing something easy. I also know dealers don't always take clunks seriously so I want to pinpoint it first.
Symptoms : Car has 50k miles. I am the original owner.
From a stop, when getting the car rolling moderately aggressively there is a clunk/pop noise from the car. I can slightly feel it in the pedals and it is fairly loud. Almost like a distant hammer and nail pounding. It's a single clunk, with sometimes a double "pop pop". It's noticeable even with the radio turned up a little. If you are smooth on the throttle it doesn't make the noise. It seems random, like something is hitting something which only happens under certain weight shifts.
It sounds like it's from the rear and the front. It seems to switch. But honestly I am not confident either way. Where it is. It is silent on turns, bumps, speed bumps, driveway, etc. I don't think it's the suspension. It is not a clicking/tapping, only a single clunk or knock.
It also happens in 1st/2nd in stop and go traffic. If you leave it in 1st and the traffic is moving from say 8-15mph where you don't need to use the clutch it will clunk during on/off throttle. Anything above ~30mph I haven't been able to replicate the noise with on/off throttle.
It also does it if I downshift when coming to a stop and don't rev match. Say you are slowing down and you go from 4th, 3rd, then 2nd, let the clutch out and it rev matches up to ~3,000rpm which causes the weight to shift forward....clunk! It is not easy to replicate which is another reason I am slow to bring it to the dealer until I pinpoint it.
Things I have tried:
- Subframe bolt torque check. Installed ECS spacer/bolt kit anyway.
- Sway bar links are tight, or at least they didn't budge at all.
- Adjusted the rear hatch a million different ways as it was making a similar noise earlier.
- Spare tire tightened, tools removed
- Rear seats up/down/mix/seat belts fastened, etc.
I was only able to locate one motor mount? Where they are. Seems fine. Dogbone seems fine, again hard to tell.
Suspect:
I have VWR springs, but I am 90% sure this started happening right before I had them installed. I did the rears myself, a well known shop did the front. I noticed the noise maybe 2k before the springs were installed.
Clutch linkage somewhere - I had issues with my transmission (early build). The clutch was replaced at 7k. I've always had a very loud flywheel and a grinding feeling in the pedal. Maybe the shifter linkage is hitting something? I have little experience with VW's so I am still learning and don't know what to check.
My rear harmonic balancer is cracking like everyone else. I have no vibrations yet and I don't see how it could be causing a clunk in the current state. Maybe a motor mount is bad that I cant see? It feels like something is loose in the drivetrain.
On my way to work this morning I was accelerating onto the freeway when my CEL started flashing then eventually went off, and my EPC light was left on. Definitely idling rough, feels like a misfire. When I got to work turned the car off and back on, still rough and the cell flashed again then stayed solid, EPC light also on.
Based on what little research I've done so far it looks and sounds like a misfire. I have my scanner to double check, but it is at home. Can I baby it home 10-15 miles on the freeway? It seems to drive "ok" above about 2.5k, rougher below that. 2012 GTI APR stage 1 about 43k on the clock.
Have a 2003 F350 srw 4x4, 107,000 miles on it. Driving it last night tow/haul light started flashing, hooked up AE got a P0730 Incorrect gear ratio. Truck seem to do ok, cut it off went back out a little while later and the tow/haul didn't flash.... Only issues I've had is when shifting from P to R, it takes a second or two longer than it should and shifts hard when it does but it doesn't do it every time.
View 1 RepliesToday after driving my roadtrip to work my car started surging! It happened leaving the light after i had gotten of the exit! Around 5500-6000 rpms and the engine light came on and started flashing. This went on for about 10 sec then the engine light went off and no more surging. Car had a half tank of gas also. Just a note i also have EVOMS intake.
View 8 Replies2000 VW GOLF 2.0L, manual, ~190k miles
Driving down the highway my CEL started flashing and the engine power dropped at the same time. I drove two miles to my destination and the idle was very rough and the power was still very low. The codes were P0300, 0301 and 0304.
The coil was replaced about 2 years ago. The plugs have never been replaced. About 2 weeks ago I had a solid CEL with the codes P1255 and P0422... I purchased a new ECT Sensor but did not yet make time to install it.
Could everything be related to the ECT? Or do you think there are multiple issues?
So I put in an MFA cluster a couple months ago and now all of a sudden the other day it started flashing STOP motor oil pressure low turn off car. It happened twice right in a row. I took the car to my local firestone changed the oil and pulled out. Five mins later it did it again. It only seams to go off when my rpms are really low in second or third gear. I'm guessing it's a bad sensor cause my oil level is fine.
View 10 RepliesWhat does this mean? For the past few months my transmission has been really clunky and just un-smooth and now this. Is it broken?
View 12 RepliesI have 1997 ford explorer my 4x4 lights on dash flashing 5-6 times and four wheel drive kicks in and binds when I turn wheel left or right and engages while going straight . Happens on occasion put its happen more often. How to disconnect the 4-wheel drive from engaging.
View 1 RepliesMy 4 wheel drive is not engaging on a 2001 F150. The indicator lites on the dash illuminate to suggest that the truck is in 4 wheel drive but sigh...it stays in 2 wheel drive. No gross sounds and the indicator lights are not flashing. Could this be a fuse or a relay issue of some sort. What else should I try?
View 3 RepliesLast night I was messing around with a bimmer. I was on 2nd gear, so i floored it and it wouldn't go in third gear. So I tried fourth and it wasn't going 4th neither. So i threw it in fifth. Started driving, I down shifted back into third, the car started shaking. Now the car shakes so much on idle. This all happen last night. I went home, and i checked out the coil packs. They seem to be fine. I was told it could be my spark plugs. So this morning,i replaced the spark plugs and coil packs and the car still shakes a lot on idle and when i drive it. I scanned it, and nothing pops up, no check engine light. My motor mounts seem good. I just recently got my um N/A tune. I feel like the tune is doing this. I have no clue whats the problem. I changed the spark plugs and coil pack for no reason. Also under my exhaust mid pips where the clamps are right after the cats. Water is leaking out. So i thought the gas station i went to, use water in their gas. Gas was low, so i put more gas, and still having the same problem.
View 24 RepliesSo yesterday my car was running as fine as it always has. Then today came around...Car started fine, shifted into first and second fine, but when I hit 3rd it started to sputter in the low rpm's. Around 3000 it picks up a bit. This then continued happening through all of the gears. I noticed that the engine light was flashing for a few seconds and then went away completely. It still putters, struggles, and shakes when accelerating in the low rpms but its not throwing any codes. I know there are a few things it could be i.e. vacuum pump, bad coils or plugs, are maybe something more serious (fuel pump maybe?). I'm at a loss, especially since the car is throwing no codes (so there is nothing to scan for). I was hoping vortex could give me somewhere to start on this, I don't have a VAGcom so getting it scanned means $$$ and I want to get a start on the problem before I go that route. Here's some basic info:
Its at 182,XXX miles. Its never thrown any engine light or cel code in the 2 years 40,000+ miles i've owned it. I run 0w 40 eurpean car formula oil through it every 3-5k. I run seafoam through it every 6 months. I'm NOT sure when the last time the coils have been replaced.
I have a 2001 mk4 golf 1.8T, tonight I was driving and all of the sudden the gear changes started clunking really rough ( it's an automatic) and then it would pulse for power only give it to me at random not when I gave it gas, coming to the next stop sign I pushed the accelerator to go and for the first 3 seconds nothing happened until it jumped in revs spinning tires and shooting me forward, so I shut off all the electronics in my car which seemed to work with the not getting power issue but when I finally got to where I was going it now won't turn over, you turn the key you hear the starter try but that's it it just won't turn over, there's no check engine light and I already have a call into my mechanic.
View 7 Replies2010 Prius 52K miles... Not engaging in Drive or Reverse, Engine is not starting either. Got Message - Put in park , All the lights are ON , in the Dash .
View 11 RepliesI just installed a rebuild 4R100 transmission in my 2001 4x4 Excursion with the 7.3. I'm having trouble getting it to engage into gear. As I shift it into gear it sounds as if it wants to engage but doesn't. I have checked the fluid level and it at a normal range. I'm wondering if I didn't put enough fluid in the converter would that cause the problem.
View 7 RepliesWhen I reverse (and wait 3 seconds just to ensure the gears are engaged), on occasion I feel a stutter/kick.
To offset it, I will tap the pedal when reversing so its not continuous. What this could be?