Golf V R32 :: Shakes - CEL Came On
Dec 15, 2013
I did some quick searching and didn't find much. After a snow and two days of resting in my driveway, I fired up the car. It began shaking (quite violently) in a rhythmic manner, I couldn't pinpoint where it was coming from. About 20 seconds in the check engine light popped on. I shut the car off, waited about a minute and turned it on again. When i turned the car back on, there was no shake and everything seems normal. The car has around 63,000 miles on it and still has the CPO full warranty. My plan is to give the service center a quick call in the morning, but I was wondering what this could be.
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Car was warming up and I went to "check" the oil. As soon as I pulled the dipstick out a little all I heard was a sucking type sound and then the engine started to shake and make sounds like it was bogging down. Almost like it wasnt getting enough air. As soon as the dip stick went back into the motor, things became normal again. I tried one more time in order to see whats up as this is the first time something like this has happened. Same exact thing. Engine started to shake and make gagging noises until i put the dipstick back in.
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R32 with 97,000 on it. UM tune. Engine shakes/shudders a lot, no CEL. Its hard to get into gear. I bought DLI motor mounts hoping that the problem is just broken motor mounts.
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So, it snowed pretty good this morning and there was about 3-4 inches of snow on the ground. I pulled out of the driveway as usual (in reverse), I get to the end and I'm turning and I noticed a vibration like something was rubbing against the wheels, I thought maybe something to do with the snow and wheels lost traction or something. Then I continue driving and when I step on the brake moderately hard (normal braking), I get this vibration like something is stuck in the wheel well and the brake pedal vibrates. If I very gently press it, it doesn't happen. So i pulled over and check the wheel wells and rotors and nothing seems out of whack. Is this the ABS? The pedal shakes quite a bit.
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I just recently got a 2004 r32 and it came with almost brand new rotors/pads, at most 500 miles on them. I just realized the other day that when driving freeway speeds, about 70-80 and braking down to 40-50 the entire cabin shakes.
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I have a VW Golf 2005 diesel. Lately (the past 2 months approx) it has started shaking when I go uphill, but not immediately. Accelerating up the hill initially is fine. For the car to shake I have to take my foot off the gas pedal (because someone is braking or turning) and then when I hit the gas again to continue, the car shakes left to right enough that I notice, but not life threatening. It only does this when the wheel is straight. If I make a turn up the hill the shaking stops, until I turn the wheel straight again, and then it continues until I reach flat road in which it ends all together. I am normally mid way up the hill when I need to do this and have decreased to about 25-30 mph and am trying to accelerate to 35-45.
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I drive a 2005 Jetta GLI 1.8T 6speed which in South Africa is called 1.8T-R. The car shakes at idle and after driving for a while it cuts off power, when restarting it takes some time cranking before starting. After starting the EPC light comes on and the rev goes up to almost 2000rpm. It runs on an AUQ Engine.
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So about a day ago I finished installing my new rotors and pads.. I thought my vibrations are gone.. But I took it for a ride today.. When i brake really hard my steering wheel shakes lightly left and right.. Also when turning right there is a sound coming from the drivers side like the rotor is scraping against something or the rotor shield..? I installed the retainer spring and the first night when i took it for a ride everything was perfect.. Today its making that noise and the steering wheel as well as the vibration..
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I have a issue with my golf 1.9tdi when i start the engine it shakes really bad and feels very rough when sitting in the cab steering wheel vibrates really Bad and engine looks like its going to fly out of the car but when i apply throttle the vibrations go only happens when idling.
What it could be i have done a Diesel Purge, changed the fuel filter, cleaner the EGR Valve, changed the coolant temp sensor, checked the injector loom for continuity and resistance everything was fine, checked resistance on injectors readings was all the same, flywheel seems fine when running (no movement) and no change when i dip the clutch, engine mounts i changed the right hand side one all the rest are fine and not penetrated.
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Audi A3 3.2 owner here from Fortitude and have rough / lumpy idle issues? While at a stop in neutral w/a cold or warm engine, it seems a little rougher than one would expect. If you rev it to 1000-1100 rpm the whole car shakes.
Engine Mounts worn?
APR Software causation?
Cam Followers or faulty coils?
Do I need a heavier duty front and top engine mount?
Wondering if CAI and Exhaust along w/ the APR ECU tune is causing it or if I'm just being paranoid.
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I drive a 2005 Jetta IV 1.8T R-line. The engine shakes/vibrates at Idle and when I drive.
Also when if I drive at high speeds when I stopped the engine just switches off when idling.
What could be the cause?
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Car: 2003 Jetta GLS 1.8T
The car is starting to produce a heavy shake in the steering wheel when above 45mph up through highway speeds. The kicker is that the shake only occurs on-center, because turning the wheel just a few degrees off creates a relatively smooth result.
Checked the wheels for balance, tire wear [which is good, no cupping], lower control arm (LCA) bushings, and complete a lock-to-lock steering test on the ground to confirm steering rack mounting bolts are tight. What's the next pieces of hardware I'm needing to verify?
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I have a 2013 Golf TDI with 2070 miles on it. For around 2-3 weeks, I've noticed that it intermittently will idle rough, shakes, etc, as if it is about to stall out, but stays running and drives normal. I figured it was a typical Diesel thing and wasn't too worried about it. However, today, this happened, and I got an engine light. Yikes! I made an appointment for it but need to wait till after the 4th for it to be looked at. What's up here? Is it a regen cycle? Timing issues? Am I doomed with my Golf TDI?
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My Saturn Aura XR shakes when i get up to about 60 - 65 mph. even worse when i go faster. any suggestions on what to do. i am going to get the alingment checked. but i think it is something else.
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My 97 Camry shakes when accelerating.
First thing i did was check the trans fluid (automatic). The drip stick showed itself to be very well high above the max fill line for running hot. So i drained the pan, and replaced the fluid with 2.6 QTs as recommended by Haynes auto manual. The dip stick still shows itself to be high and at the same spot as previously. The problem still persist.
I recently have changed the front rotors and brakes how ever i do not feel that would be the cause to the below symptoms.
-Shakes on and off when accelerating while O/D is on.
-When O/D is off occasionally shakes.
-Rarely shakes when manually shifting.
-Shakes often when driving up hills.
-With O/D on, acceleration beyond 60 km is near impossible as it constantly shakes.
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Every time I step on the gas in my 97 ford mustang, it starts to shake. it shakes few a few seconds and then stops. im not really sure why or what is making it do that.
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when Im going down a hill or when I hit a certain speed my steering wheel shakes and I don't mean a small shake I mean my arms are grabbing the steering wheel to keep control and they are violently shaking with the wheel. Now in the begining I heard that if alot of snow got packed into your tires the wheels would shake but theres no snow I check everyday before I leave and if there is I get it out. So then I think maybe it could be my tires aren't balance right but no less then 2 and 1/2 months I got new snow tires put on in a shop so they SHOULD'VE balanced them right? so that can't be the problem so then I thought alingnment! but the thing with that is if I let go of the wheel when I'm going under 50-60 miles an hour and it stays pretty damn straight then it can't be that either..
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So I just recently bough a Celica GTS off an old friend, and the test drive went smoothly. Bought of course, as soon as I got it home, things started going bad.
Sitting in the driveway for a moment, I started to feel the car shake when the engine was idling. I ran the engine up to 1.5K RPMS and it smoothed out, but you could still feel it, just barely. As soon as you let it drop down to the 1K, its horrible again.
Temperatures were fine, no trouble codes. I've Isolated it to the 2nd cylinder from the right, and I've already checked plugs/wires and done compression tests on all 4 cylinders. Fuel injectors are also working fine.
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I'm owner of Lexus ls 460 from 2008. Today I noticed that when I turned A/C and lights off rpm's are dropping to 500. With P mode is all ok, but when I shift to D and I depress the brake pedal steering wheel and the car shakes. Battery is ok and charging from alternator is 14.20. When I turn on the air conditioning, vibration disappear and RPM's rising to 600/700. The engine is warm (has normal temperature"). Tt is strange to me that when I shift to R I do not feel no vibration.
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I'm a MKV guy, but a coworker wants me to glance on the Vortex to take a look to see if I can find any answers to her Passat situation. It shakes (steering wheel, body, everything shakes like you're going up a roller-coaster) while you accelerate. Once you meet the speed you want to go, it stops. If you accelerate, then it will continue shaking.
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About two months ago when driving at around 100-130 km/h, my steering would shake and also when I would push of the brakes.
Brought my 2013 Passat to the dealership and they balanced my front tires...left the dealership and steering wasn't any better. The following week brought it in again and they balanced the tires in front of my eyes and still nothing was fixed.
Since there is no knocking sound coming from the front end of the car they said they were 100% sure my front discs we're warped. So they replaced my front discs and IT STILL SHAKES.
Should my pads of been replaced at the same time as my discs?? My car is not making any noise at all...just shaky steering and when pressing brakes. I'm willing to bed it's because of my pads.
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