I'm about 100 miles into the break in period and I knew there would be chatter at idle but there also seems to be a lot of chatter driving around especially accelerating slowlyish from under 3,000 rpms in 4th. Is this normal or do i have a possibly botched install?
View 20 RepliesMy mom wants to sell her 2002 Ford Explorer w/ 4.0 as enough kids have moved out that the vehicle is no longer needed. It has 162 000 mostly trouble free miles on it. However, for me to sell it for her, I need to get it running well first. The background:
Just recently it fried the alternator. No big deal, got a reman for my dad and he put it in. But now it has this sort of "shudder" at idle and low rpm, and also when accelerating slowly low in the revs. I don't know if it was there before or not because only my siblings drove it, and their not exactly observant. I am positive it is a misfire.
So far I have done the obvious. I have pulled all the plugs, they are nice and tan, re-gapped them (although they were only .002 out of spec at the most). I noticed that one plug wire was broken on the inside, where it connects to the plug. Thinking I solved the problem, I bought a new set of wires and put them on. No such luck however, as the problem continues unchanged. On the new wires, I have verified tons of spark making it through. In an effort to isolate the bad cylinder, thinking maybe it was actually a plug, I started pulling wires off the coil with it running. I could barely notice a change in the engine with any of them, and a couple seemed to have no change at all (again, I may just not have been able to detect it because I could barely make out the other changes).
Next, thinking maybe it was fuel related, I put a stethoscope on some of the injectors and they sounded the same, but I can not get at the back passenger and 2 back driver ones. How else can I test these?
I even went so far as to unplug IAC, engine died immediately so its not that. I also took off the EGR valve and cleaned it, and pushed the plunger up and down lots and it moves freely. I tried pulling off the vaccuum line from the EGR with the engine running and there was no change, but that doesn't really mean anything does it?
So I put it all back together and thats how it sits for the night. On a related note, the CEL is on, but it is on more often than not on that thing, and my dad has taken it to a dealer three times to have codes read and nothing ever shows up. The mechanics keep saying that it has something to do with the fuel cap and pressure or something.
The other night I threw an EPC light. I've tried reading older posts but haven't found anything.
I was at the top of a hill, slowly engaging the clutch while accelerating. I wasn't trying to floor it or anything. My car immediately went into limp mode and the EPC light came on. I pulled over, restarted the car, and it went away. It happened again the next day in the same place.
I am only having the problem on a steep hill while engaging the clutch. Other than this situation, the car seems to be running fine. The car is completely bone stock. I don't have a VAGCOM and can't really afford to purchase one at the moment.
1995 C1500 Suburban (diesel) ... Felt like the transmission started to slip. And then it slowly started to "idle down while driving". thought maybe out of fuel, so i filled it up. When i turned out of the Gas station it died. about 20 minutes later, it started up but still didn't seem to run at full strength. No engine lights on or anything, light all still worked fine, just the engine shut off on me.
View 6 RepliesMy 2004 Toyota Matrix has been making a rattling/chattering noise when I accelerate. I took it to a shop (in nyc, where I live) who said it is a problem with the bearings and that my best bet is to replace the engine with a used one. He quoted me about $2500, parts and labor included. Also, he said it doesn't really make sense to try to rebuild the engine - better to replace it.
Does this cost/analysis make sense? I know nothing about car repair, but a bit of googling does seem to confirm that this is a problem with the bearings (particularly the rod bearings?).
Just bought my R32 less than a week ago and suddenly today while driving slowly through my neighborhood I started hearing a squeaking noise like metal to metal. Once the wheel started to spin even a little bit the noise started. It sounded like the disc or wheel or something was moving against another part and it was really loud. I took the wheel out inspected all the parts(I am not a mechanic) and put the wheel back on and the sound went away. What could it be?
View 4 RepliesI noticed something a few weeks back, wanted to see if it's normal or a potential issue is arising. When you are driving slowly, maybe coasting to a red light and not using much braking power, I notice the pedal is pretty firm. If you push on it harder, it then "gives" and feels softer and you can more easily push it towards the floor. If you are driving faster or braking harder, it feels more normal and doesn't have the firmness when you first press the brake.
I assume this is the brake assist or some other electronic nanny at work, but wanted to verify. I have checked the brake fluid in the car, and it's certainly not low.
I noticed the RPM's are higher than they used to be when accelerating slowly.
My car is an awd hybrid 600h with a CVT (110.000 miles) .. Do i have to check the transmission fluid? How?
Is my clutch or whatever it's called dying?
My car is still under warranty, but I'm not sure if wearable parts are included.
OK, I recently purchased a 2009 Passat 2.0 & love the car with the exception of one thing that's driving me crazy. When slowly accelerating & the RPM's are between 2-3000 rpm there's a loud buzzing noise from the engine. (Sounds like a kazoo) Again, it only happens when accelerating slowly & will happen at all speeds.
View 8 RepliesI have an 08 awd honda element w/ 70k miles-last 2 yrs my element has had slight hesitation when slowly accelerated to about 30 mph and seems to 'balk' in the 25 -35 mph zone.No problems noted when accelerating quickly in that zone and car performs well otherwise. I have changed air filter added dry gas in winter but the problem is year round. I use generic gas.
View 1 RepliesWhat can cause shutter in 1998 f-150 4.6 4x4 4r70w when slowly accelerating?
View 5 RepliesI have an 07 LS460 with 65k miles.
Within last couple days I noticed a clicking sound when reversing and accelerating forward slowly.
This occurs most of the time when accelerating while wheel is turning (like after you back out of driveway and slowly turn straight to pull away)
I've also noticed the click when pulling into garage and braking.
I recently bought an 04 lariat crew cab with 56K miles 5.4 and auto trans. Before i bought it i complained about an exhaust noise and acceleration issue at 40mph and 1100 rpm as well as the ac not being very cold. They replaced the exhaust manifold on the passenger side, coil pack on the #3 cylinder, a transmission flush, a flash drive update and recharged the ac. This seemed to take care of the problem but i mostly drove under 30mph and did not notice it. I took it on a few road trips, and country roads and noticed the problem of sputtering and shuttering between 40-60 mph's after decelerating and slowly accelerating. The problem occurs consistently with ac and over-drive on in the above mentioned conditions and mph range. Problem is less noticeable with ac off and have not noticed it at all with over-drive off. It feels like a limited slip kicking in or driving on dry pavement in 4wd. Tranny shifts fine through all gears in a straight pull of acceleration and even full throttle pulls. Problem only occurs after decelerating and slowly accelerating. I don't know of any codes as I don't have a code reader, but I have not had any check engine lights come on nor has the dealer mentioned any codes.
View 7 RepliesI just got this 2007 Mazda6 S Sport Value Edition for free from a family member. It has an automatic transmission.
While driving it in a parking lot I noticed that the car was make some kind of a rattling noise whenever I start accelerating slowly from around 1000ish rpms. After that the noise disappears. The first time hearing something like this was in a Prius I rented, though I don't think this affects performance at all. I am wondering if this is normal?
Also the car has being sitting unused for about a couple of months before I picked it up. I noticed immediately a burning smell after driving it, somewhere under the driver side, which makes me suspect if it has something to do with the transmission. I know very little about fixing cars of course but I also own a manual transmission car, and this smell kinda reminds me of a burning clutch.
The car drives great. The transmission seems to work fine. No slipping. Driving around those hills in San Francisco just fine.
I bought a used 89' Ford e150. Automatic transmission, 194k mi. I fixed it up a bit and it is very much drivable. I just took it up to northern az and then back down. I had to have it towed recently and now my transmission is acting up. When I want to move it i put it into gear, either reverse or drive, now while accelerating slowly the vehicle doesn't move for several seconds until the transmission catches and it then starts to move. It does this now while driving and having to stop for lights and signs. It has a delay until the transmission catches. I wonder if the vehicle is dragged up on to a flatbed tow truck this can damage my transmission or driveshaft And cause this. What can I do to fix it
View 5 RepliesExperienced a chatter in the clutch pedal with the a/c on when clutch pedal is pushed in. To me it feels like the throw bearing isn't disengaging the clutch fully, plus my clutch is kind of high once full disengage unless its normal.
View 5 RepliesMy first VW was '99 Jetta that had 150xxx miles on the original clutch before it was stolen in '11. I leased a GTI shortly after, and decided to buy it out last year. At 35,000 miles I am starting to get I guess what I would describe as a chatter when slipping the clutch into first and sometimes second. Car is stock, never abused. I tried to reproduce this for a video clip but the problem is sporadic. Never had a clutch go on me so I don't know what to expect, but from what I've seen of people losing their stock clutches after ecu flashes is the car slipping under wot in top gear. I don't have that issue. No other symptoms. No stubborn shifts or anything, clutch still feels the same and rpm's have never flared up on shifts.
View 5 RepliesMy car has a knocking icking noise all the time, I think it is clutch chatter, but not fully sure. This is a 6MT 2011 GTI. It is annoying, but if you turn the radio up.... The annoying sound goes away....
View 4 RepliesSounds actually quieted down and my mechanic is thinking its more the alternator pulley.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2010 5-speed Golf 2.5L. Around 2 months ago after coming back from vacation, i noticed that when shift from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd, there is horrible chatter/vibration coming from i assume the clutch/tranny. its been getting progressively worse and its at a point where i can hear the spare change rattle in the cup holder. the car had been sitting for a month, and i sort of "broke it in again" when i got back from vacation, not revving over 3 on the first tank, not over 4 on the second. It does have 100k kms on it, solid mix of highway and city. Is this something easily fixable, i dont have a warranty so i'd have to go aftermarket. Not down to pay two arms and 3 legs for something that could put me back in this situation yet again. if its the clutch id just go aftermarket with something a lot better, or if its the tranny id put a 6 speed in it, really lacking on the highway i believe. Or maybe it's something else.
View 7 RepliesI have 3.8k miles on my GTI, and recently started noticing this clutch chatter when my car is at a stop in neutral with the clutch engaged (pedal out). It goes away when the clutch is disengaged (pedal in). I'm not sure if the noise has always been there or not, but now that I hear it, it's really bothering me.
It doesn't affect driveability, and seems to disappear once the car gets moving. And it's usually not too bad, BUT sometimes the clutch engages in such a way that I get the rattle like in the second video. This is really the noise that makes me nervous. Does this sound like typical clutch chatter or do I possibly have a bad DMF and/or throw out bearing?
Car was taken to dealer today 3/7/14 and a new throw out bearing was ordered. I inquired about the possibility of it being a flywheel issue, and was told they wouldn't know that until they get into the transmission. So for now, car is schedule to have the throw out bearing replaced under warranty next week.