I installed the non-resonated exhaust, but I noticed that some air/water condensation is coming out of the small pipe that join the cat and non resonated part of the exhaust.
I double checked the position of the small part and is very deep inside the other tubes, plus I checked the clamps too.
So I did the seafoam trick and I came to the conculsion that my exhaust leak is coming from either the manifold or the flex pipe. There was no smoke coming from under the car only a mist of smoking coming up from the back of the engine, probably by the manifold or the flex pipe. I do not see any visible cracking per say. I have attached a picture of the end of the flex pipe and it almost looks like someone may have tried to seal it before? I don't know if that is normal or not as seen in the picture.
2002 Volkswagen Golf 2.0 ...
I have recently brought a new used car. In oz. I've noticed a small leak coming from a pipe under the car near the right side, I believe this is the power steering pipe. Any diagrams or links to see where each pipe goes as hard to follow. I have a picture but unable to upload here.
View 6 RepliesRecently, my car has been sounding louder than usual. It seems to be coming from under the vehicle, and when I checked, there was smoke coming from a pipe underneath. My best guess is that the exhaust is leaking. It kind of looks like there's a disconnect here....
View 3 RepliesI'm just curious, I have milltek catback and lately, i feel like I can hear a very small exhaust leak somewhere under the car. I could be way wrong because I get super paranoid once I hear an odd noise, so anyway would a small leak light up the CEL?
View 5 RepliesActually developed a crack and subsequent leak in a pipe running lengthwise, so assume the factory weld over the years went bad. Since it would be a weld overhead, wonder what method would be best? Would oxy acetylene work or mig? I don't have a tig so that not an option for me.
View 2 RepliesMaybe I've been having too much fun in the rain... I've recently noticed an odd smell in the car and found a small wet spot underneath the passenger front floor mat, only to be followed by same in the rear passenger floor mat. I was hoping it won't happen again, but I found myself with the wet floor few weeks later after the rain.
I first thought it may be the bike rack (which I have posted in the earlier month) but seeing the location and occurence, it couldn't be from the rack. It was always the underneath the center of the freaking floor mat.
My R is at the dealer since yesterday, getting a full physical.. They're even talking about removing the headliner to make sure there is no internal leak from the roof.
I changed my front catalytic converter yesterday. Everything was installed properly and the repair went smooth. Unfortunately when I started the car, I discovered the connection between the bottom of the cat and the connecting pipe was leaking out a ton of exhaust. The previous cat didn't leak like that. I put in a new gasket and tightened the bolts extra tight but the leak is still there. The worst part is that the leaking exhaust fumes are all traveling up into the hood, which makes it look like the engine is smoking. What should I do to stop the leak? I even tried using muffler tape but that only worked for an hour until it hardened and sounded like crap.
View 3 RepliesI have a really small leak coming from the lower end of my power steering hose, it's super small, I was wondering if I could fix this by wiping it down really well and dry, and then layering it with plasti-dip. I think the leak is small/slow enough for me to get in a few good layers. Would this be an okay fix, or would the plasti-dip separate fast?
View 2 RepliesOver the weekend I replaced the passenger side up pipe with one that doesn't have a spot for the EGR cooler. After putting the turbo back in it has a pretty bad exhaust leak. Sounds like it is on the drivers side somewhere near the Y pipe. When replacing the passenger up pipe I didn't loosen any manifold bolts or anything and I am thinking that the Y pipe is out of alignment with the turbo. What is the proper procedure to loosen everything up and get it aligned on the turbo? My guess is remove turbo, loosen drivers side manifold, loosen passenger side manifold, loosen passenger up pipe and tighten it again now that everything isn't under tension, install turbo and clamp to Y pipe, tighten manifolds. Is that the right idea?
View 8 RepliesThe exhaust pipe connecting the cat and muffler is broken. However, the bolts connecting them are so rusted that look like one piece. Any tips on removing them off? I am afraid that PB blaster won't work in this case. I am thinking of drill them through, but afraid of damaging the cat.
BTW, my car's fuel tank has some leak. I can smell the gas. Is it safe to use a torch to remove freezing bolts?
I have a ton of white smoke coming from my exhaust pipe only after it ran a long time then is started back up ????
View 7 Repliesi have a 2002 250 with the 7.3. i put a mbrp aluminized 4in turbo back with a FTE 30in resonator. I'm getting a lot of noise in the cab sounds like its where the turbo goes into the 4in pipe. the muffler guy said its because of the bigger pipe and not a leak. is there anything i can do to get rid of the excess noise.
View 8 RepliesFinally got the car started after over a year of acquiring parts and labor. Cylinder 5&6 had misfires due to faulty injector harnesses. That issue has resolved. But I am getting a pretty distinct exhaust leak noise coming from the manifold area and i cannot figure out where it is coming from. We smoke tested it and still can't find the leak.
Things we checked:
-Head to manifold (all nuts tight)
-Manifold to turbo (all nuts tight)
-Turbo to downpipe (2 vbands both tight)
-Wastegate (2bolt manifold to adapter tight and vband adapter to wastgate tight)
-(2) O2 sensor plugs on the maniold (tight)
-All turbo hardware (tight)
-manifold and downpipe have no cracks
Picture:
Video:
[URL] .....
I own a 2001 isuzi trooper, the water pipe has been broken a couple times, so the radiator has been leaking so my car overheats. But I fixed it a couple of months ago, yet after I fixed it the car kept going through the water/coolant extremely fast and was overheating unless i put water in it every other day.
Yet, a couple of days ago, I was driving home, and i heard a bubbling noise, ignoring it i kept driving only to have complete loss of my accelerator and had my car rolling along the highway unable to accelerate. (And the last time I put water in the radiator was 10 days ago) now my car won't even turn on, and it sounds like it is having a very difficult time when I try the ignition. plus when I do try to turn the engine on, coolant is coming out of my exhaust pipe.
I have a factory plastic bedliner in my 05 F150 with the 8ft bed. The tie downs in the front of the bed have a small gap that allows water to leak under the bedliner. I have tried using silicone caulk around the seam but the flexing of the liner makes it come unglued.
How to keep the water from getting under? The water that makes its way through the seam drains out of the factory holes in the front of the bed but I still worry about the moisture under there causing rust.
First car is an '02 echo and has some things that need to be done. Small exhaust leak, but i don't know where the leak is, how to find it, new one? Where to get replacement taillights, hole in mine.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Malibu , I took my it in to find out why my cars engine light is on. They told me I have a small exhaust leak. Is this something I need to get fixed right away? How important is it that I get it fixed?
View 5 RepliesI just finished installing a new turbo (shaft play and lots of oil in the compressor side), RR up-pipes, and T500 (250k and once had a very long crank to get the ICP up to start).
Anyway, except for another exhaust leak at the pass side up-pipe to manifold, it seemed to run okay but with lots of white smoke. I only have about 50 miles after the install, when it suddenly starting surging and made a lot of loud knocking noises. This then went away and came back again rather quickly. I was close to home, so I made back under power. I also received the two codes listed. My IPR is original, but two summers ago I installed the IPR re-seal kit. Everything on the IPR looked good when it came off for the T500.
After reading around, I saw that low fuel pressure / air in fuel can cause problems. I connected a pressure gauge to the pre-filter port on the filter housing, and got 40psi at idle. I then took a diesel shower and blew out the fuel line into the tank. After re-connecting it, the fuel pressure stayed the same but the engines idles much better, but still has blue smoke. It's the original fuel pump (to me anyway) and original fuel line connections.
I have about 3/4 tank, and no place to put it, so I'd need to run it out for the Hutch mod, or least to get in there and inspect. Would eliminating the Ford connections at the pump be worthwhile for now, and is 40psi at idle adequate? Wondering if it's time for a fuel pump?
Ok so my car kept overheating and I saw I had a small leak from the gasket on the water pump. I replaced the water pump and gasket but then it would zoom straight to overheating. I then assumed it was a stuck thermostat and replaced the OEM with a fail-safe thermostat. After topping off fluid and leaving the radiator cap off until I saw fluid running through it took it for a drive. The temp began to climb to overheating but dropped just as it was getting to the red and then began to fluctuate. Finally heat came through the car climate system and all was good until I had to come to a stop. It seems that whenever I have to stop at a light the temperature rises to overheating.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2011 F350 CC long box 4x4, with a 6.2, 93,000 km on it. I periodically get a P0420. I clear it and sometimes it comes back in 10 or 20 KM and sometimes it comes back in a couple hundred km. Been doing this for about 800 KM.
Yesterday I got an exaust leak at the joint where the exaust manifold meets the pipe beside the engine. Checked close, bolts appear intact, leak is on the outboard side blowing towards the frame. Looks like a gasket or donut seal failed.
I am wondering if the catalytic converter was plugged or restrictive, would this cause the P0420 and could back pressure from a restricted catalyitic converter cause the gasket to blow?