Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Exhaust Leak Between Front Cat And Connecting Pipe
Jun 1, 2013
I changed my front catalytic converter yesterday. Everything was installed properly and the repair went smooth. Unfortunately when I started the car, I discovered the connection between the bottom of the cat and the connecting pipe was leaking out a ton of exhaust. The previous cat didn't leak like that. I put in a new gasket and tightened the bolts extra tight but the leak is still there. The worst part is that the leaking exhaust fumes are all traveling up into the hood, which makes it look like the engine is smoking. What should I do to stop the leak? I even tried using muffler tape but that only worked for an hour until it hardened and sounded like crap.
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How to replace this bad flex pipe....
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As shown in the photo, the metal pipe that runs behind the exhaust manifold is leaking coolant. I can't see the leak (obviously), but I can feel it with my hand (after getting burned on the exhaust!) It is NOT leaking from the right hand clamp of the metal pipe. How do I remove this pipe to inspect? Do I have to remove the exhaust to get to it, or simply remove the right side clamp and some bolts?
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Actually developed a crack and subsequent leak in a pipe running lengthwise, so assume the factory weld over the years went bad. Since it would be a weld overhead, wonder what method would be best? Would oxy acetylene work or mig? I don't have a tig so that not an option for me.
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I hear a bit of exhaust leak noise from engine compartment only at a cold startup, it goes away in seconds. I am 700miles from home. If it's a nonessential fix i will drive home before fixing, or, if an easy gasket replacement, I have two more days here, and tools,garage, and competent support to diy the job.
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I installed the non-resonated exhaust, but I noticed that some air/water condensation is coming out of the small pipe that join the cat and non resonated part of the exhaust.
I double checked the position of the small part and is very deep inside the other tubes, plus I checked the clamps too.
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Over the weekend I replaced the passenger side up pipe with one that doesn't have a spot for the EGR cooler. After putting the turbo back in it has a pretty bad exhaust leak. Sounds like it is on the drivers side somewhere near the Y pipe. When replacing the passenger up pipe I didn't loosen any manifold bolts or anything and I am thinking that the Y pipe is out of alignment with the turbo. What is the proper procedure to loosen everything up and get it aligned on the turbo? My guess is remove turbo, loosen drivers side manifold, loosen passenger side manifold, loosen passenger up pipe and tighten it again now that everything isn't under tension, install turbo and clamp to Y pipe, tighten manifolds. Is that the right idea?
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Recently, my car has been sounding louder than usual. It seems to be coming from under the vehicle, and when I checked, there was smoke coming from a pipe underneath. My best guess is that the exhaust is leaking. It kind of looks like there's a disconnect here....
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The exhaust pipe connecting the cat and muffler is broken. However, the bolts connecting them are so rusted that look like one piece. Any tips on removing them off? I am afraid that PB blaster won't work in this case. I am thinking of drill them through, but afraid of damaging the cat.
BTW, my car's fuel tank has some leak. I can smell the gas. Is it safe to use a torch to remove freezing bolts?
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So I did the seafoam trick and I came to the conculsion that my exhaust leak is coming from either the manifold or the flex pipe. There was no smoke coming from under the car only a mist of smoking coming up from the back of the engine, probably by the manifold or the flex pipe. I do not see any visible cracking per say. I have attached a picture of the end of the flex pipe and it almost looks like someone may have tried to seal it before? I don't know if that is normal or not as seen in the picture.
2002 Volkswagen Golf 2.0 ...
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I had my E in for service today to get her fluids changed and to replace her engine oil with Synthetic finally (second service for her).
I had noticed a rattle in the undercarriage for a few weeks now and assumed it was a common TSB for a heat shield that rattles. As it turns out, it is the resonator pipe that needs to be replaced (under warranty). I've never had to replace one before so hopefully it's just a one-off!
Otherwise, I can already tell she's happy to be filled with some wonderful Synthetic...
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My Elantra is at 14k miles and it has happened twice now that the pipe has released white/grayish smoke when accelerating abruptly (pretty much forcing the engine) on the highway above 60mph. I can see in my mirror that it leaves a pretty big smoke screen behind me.
I took it for an inspection after the first time it happened and the mechanic said it might have just been steam and that I should not worry about it. Since my 15k maintenance check is coming up, I will ask that they actually check on it.
I'm also curious to know if this could cause me to get a ticket? I'm thinking I could get pulled over for "imparing the vision of drivers behind me and making it dangerous for them", or something like that.
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i have a 2002 250 with the 7.3. i put a mbrp aluminized 4in turbo back with a FTE 30in resonator. I'm getting a lot of noise in the cab sounds like its where the turbo goes into the 4in pipe. the muffler guy said its because of the bigger pipe and not a leak. is there anything i can do to get rid of the excess noise.
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I just finished installing a new turbo (shaft play and lots of oil in the compressor side), RR up-pipes, and T500 (250k and once had a very long crank to get the ICP up to start).
Anyway, except for another exhaust leak at the pass side up-pipe to manifold, it seemed to run okay but with lots of white smoke. I only have about 50 miles after the install, when it suddenly starting surging and made a lot of loud knocking noises. This then went away and came back again rather quickly. I was close to home, so I made back under power. I also received the two codes listed. My IPR is original, but two summers ago I installed the IPR re-seal kit. Everything on the IPR looked good when it came off for the T500.
After reading around, I saw that low fuel pressure / air in fuel can cause problems. I connected a pressure gauge to the pre-filter port on the filter housing, and got 40psi at idle. I then took a diesel shower and blew out the fuel line into the tank. After re-connecting it, the fuel pressure stayed the same but the engines idles much better, but still has blue smoke. It's the original fuel pump (to me anyway) and original fuel line connections.
I have about 3/4 tank, and no place to put it, so I'd need to run it out for the Hutch mod, or least to get in there and inspect. Would eliminating the Ford connections at the pump be worthwhile for now, and is 40psi at idle adequate? Wondering if it's time for a fuel pump?
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I own a 2002 Elantra GT that's had a decent repair record but just yesterday developed a leak that is almost exactly 18" toward center from the outside of the right front tire and 5" to the rear of the center of the tire (18" in, 5" back from rf tire). It doesn't seem to be a small leak and unfortunately I don't know what the fluid is. I've never changed the oil myself and have never seen the undercarriage. The measurements were made by marking the the concrete by the front tire then measuring in to the deposit.
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I have a 2011 F350 CC long box 4x4, with a 6.2, 93,000 km on it. I periodically get a P0420. I clear it and sometimes it comes back in 10 or 20 KM and sometimes it comes back in a couple hundred km. Been doing this for about 800 KM.
Yesterday I got an exaust leak at the joint where the exaust manifold meets the pipe beside the engine. Checked close, bolts appear intact, leak is on the outboard side blowing towards the frame. Looks like a gasket or donut seal failed.
I am wondering if the catalytic converter was plugged or restrictive, would this cause the P0420 and could back pressure from a restricted catalyitic converter cause the gasket to blow?
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2001 F250 5.4L - I recently had my muffler changed and the pipe flange on the tailpipe up by the exhaust manifold welded back on. I haven't driven my truck much this past summer so when I took it in to get the muffler fixed the front caliper got temporarily stuck like it tends to do. It eventually freed up but in the meantime I noticed a hot oil-like smell coming from my truck from time to time. I chalked it up to either the new muffler or maybe it just smelled hot and it was instead the front brake caliper still being stuck. One day I'm driving down the interstate and I start uphill. I noticed smoke behind me and pulled over. The brake was not overheating so I got underneath the truck.
The smoke was rolling off of the exhaust pipe all the way down it all the way up near the manifold but mostly around the muffler. The smoke quickly went away while I was under the truck. I noticed it doing this only while the engine is under a load like going uphill. Just driving around town nothing is noticeable. When it does smoke I lose power. Once I slow down for awhile and then gradually speed back up things seem okay. I checked the oil.
Normally I don't lose a drop but this time I was a quart low but the oil on the stick was clean. It's been awhile since I had my oil changed but very little mileage on this change (my truck has sat awhile). My truck doesn't leave a drop of oil under it when it sits. From what I read you can remove the radiator cap and start the truck to see if it's a blown head gasket. At least that one of the things I can check easily without actually taking the plugs out even though the oil looks clean. The radiator has not lost any fluid. The transmission fluid is also good. It's been doing this for about 3 weeks.
I still drive it to and from work (about 15 miles round trip) everyday but I take it easy on the acceleration and stay on city streets. I looked into the EGR system online for my truck and instead found an EVAP purge solenoid/valve in its place on the passenger side. I don't have any service lights on the dash. I went to Autozone and had them scan it but nothing came up. I read somewhere that either the purge solenoid assembly or EGR (I can't remember) can burn up the board if it goes bad resulting in no code showing up.
I recently changed a vacuum valve out that went bad that controlled the vacuum chamber used to operate the hubs on the 4WD. The 4WD is now operational again. Assuming the head gasket is not blown, what to check for next?
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My 2002 Elantra (about 276,000km) had some kind of leak in a power steering return line. A mechanic looked at it, said I needed to order the replacement part from Hyundai. Got the part, the mechanic (not Hyundai) took 2 hours and fixed the line.
Driving away from the mechanic, I noticed the front right turn signal was blinking abnormally rapidly. Left turn signal is fine. I call the mechanic, tell him what's happening, and ask if it might be related to the power steering line fix (after all, they're both in the right front side of the vehicle). He swears up and down he touched nothing having to do with the turn signal.
Okay, maybe it's just a coincidence. I buy a new signal light and put it in. Same thing with the front right turn signal blinking too rapidly. While driving back from replacing the bulb, a car cut in front of me and I went to lay on the horn....nothing happened!! No sound. To top it off, for a while now, the dashboard lighting has been dimming slightly at certain times.
What could be causing all this? The alternator is fine, someone tested it.
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I have a 93 ford taurus 3.8L V6 automatic GL. The exhaust clamp between the resonator and exhaust pipe came off and I need to know what size clamp I will need to replace it. I think it is a 2 inch but I am not sure.
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i have my 4 inch exhaust pipe cut just behind the rear of the cab right now with no muffler. If i cut it further up maybe jsut under the front seat or so what would this to the sound? would it make it deeper or louder?
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I have been having an issue with exhaust fumes in my 13 GT (16,000 miles on it). I am positive its from the exhaust. Its definitely the "rotten egg" smell, not raw gasoline. I don't hear any leaks though.
It only happens when going up a hill when the engine is under more load than usual or under heavy acceleration. I am going to call the dealer about it and have them look at it.
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