Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Rattle In The Undercarriage - Exhaust Resonator Pipe Replacement?
Dec 3, 2013
I had my E in for service today to get her fluids changed and to replace her engine oil with Synthetic finally (second service for her).
I had noticed a rattle in the undercarriage for a few weeks now and assumed it was a common TSB for a heat shield that rattles. As it turns out, it is the resonator pipe that needs to be replaced (under warranty). I've never had to replace one before so hopefully it's just a one-off!
Otherwise, I can already tell she's happy to be filled with some wonderful Synthetic...
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I have a 93 ford taurus 3.8L V6 automatic GL. The exhaust clamp between the resonator and exhaust pipe came off and I need to know what size clamp I will need to replace it. I think it is a 2 inch but I am not sure.
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My Elantra is at 14k miles and it has happened twice now that the pipe has released white/grayish smoke when accelerating abruptly (pretty much forcing the engine) on the highway above 60mph. I can see in my mirror that it leaves a pretty big smoke screen behind me.
I took it for an inspection after the first time it happened and the mechanic said it might have just been steam and that I should not worry about it. Since my 15k maintenance check is coming up, I will ask that they actually check on it.
I'm also curious to know if this could cause me to get a ticket? I'm thinking I could get pulled over for "imparing the vision of drivers behind me and making it dangerous for them", or something like that.
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I saw some other threads lately other people having startup problems thought i would post mines as well. Mines sometimes would startup then rattle alot/Car shakes and spit excessive smoke from tail pipe. Then sometimes it would startup up at all, No crank No Check Engine Light either
Its an 2014 Elantra GL 41,000KM with stock key, CAI. Couldn't scan any codes
Part 1 : YouTube
Part 2 : YouTube
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How to replace this bad flex pipe....
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I changed my front catalytic converter yesterday. Everything was installed properly and the repair went smooth. Unfortunately when I started the car, I discovered the connection between the bottom of the cat and the connecting pipe was leaking out a ton of exhaust. The previous cat didn't leak like that. I put in a new gasket and tightened the bolts extra tight but the leak is still there. The worst part is that the leaking exhaust fumes are all traveling up into the hood, which makes it look like the engine is smoking. What should I do to stop the leak? I even tried using muffler tape but that only worked for an hour until it hardened and sounded like crap.
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As shown in the photo, the metal pipe that runs behind the exhaust manifold is leaking coolant. I can't see the leak (obviously), but I can feel it with my hand (after getting burned on the exhaust!) It is NOT leaking from the right hand clamp of the metal pipe. How do I remove this pipe to inspect? Do I have to remove the exhaust to get to it, or simply remove the right side clamp and some bolts?
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I recently upgraded my exhaust from stock to a 4" Magna Flow Turbo back kit. After the upgrade, I noticed a strange rattle coming from the tail pipe. It sounded like the pipe was vibrating on something but I checked and it is free from anything touching it. There are no strange noises coming from the engine area. it is only herd at the end of the pipe. If I start the truck it makes a the loose rattle noise like something is loose inside the pipe like the sound you get when you have a bad muffler. About after 4 or 5 minutes I hear the exhaust noise change pitch and make a whooshing noise like a gate or something opening or closing and changing the exhaust flow. After a while it goes away and make the loose rattle returns. The truck has lots of power and preforms great. Where to look?
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Just walked by the back end of my new Prius III and heard what sounded like a electric motor running from the general area of the exhaust pipe at the right rear end of the car. This was about 5 hours after I last drove it.
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I have a 2010 5.3 silverado, extended cab 2WD with 100K Miles on it. It's time to change the transmission fluid and Filter. It looks like there is an exaust pipe that runs about 3-4 inches under the transmission pan. Can I drop the pan without removing the exhaust pipe so i can change the filter?
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Was driving to work this morning and my exhaust suddenly got super loud. I did not hit anything. I was cruising through the interstate. Took the car to the dealer to find out my resonator is broken. I have a GHL exhaust. Why would this happen?
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Noticed a louder sound to my exhaust. Cuts out when ice shuts off. Haven't got a good look at the whole exhaust system from underneath but did see water drip out from the engine side of the resonator when the car was warming up. The sound is coming from about midpoint between the taiI pipe and the engine. I suspect the weld at the resonator junction is breaking. Is this common? 2008, Canada, 130000 km.
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I have an 2003 Explorer 4.0 and I am looking at replacing my muffler. Only problem is I don't know who to go with. I am looking for a mellow tone with minimal interior noise. I have been looking at Flowmaster, Magnaflow & Dynomax although I can't make a decision. I have heard how the 4.0 Ranger sound's on Magnaflows website(sound's OK) aside from all the horrible sound clips floating around that don't have good quality to listen too. I was looking at Flowmaster 50 series Delta Flow and there SUV muffler(a tad thicker than Delta series) but want some feedback on who/what to go with. Also, right before the tailpipe ends, next to the spare tire underneath, there looks to be what looks like a resonator if I am correct on the tailpipe. Can this be removed and replaced with new piping? Will it hurt performance or make the exhaust sound different?
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My car just turned 20k miles. I haven't abused it and rarely tach it over 4k. I needed to cross a lane in heavy traffic so I put my foot into it, it tached up to maybe 6grand, dropped a gear or so and out the tail pipe comes a huge cloud of smoke. I mean huge. Looked like it burnt a quart of oil in a second. I had just changed the oil a few days before. Mobil full syn. I know the lvl was correct because i checked it the day after i changed it.
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The clamp connecting the resonator and the catalytic converter is leaking around the edges. I changed the bolts and tightened the clamp but still leaking.
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While accelerating moderately into traffic one day the engine seemed to quit and the engine light came on, soon after the engine came back to life the engine light went off and clouds of smoke came pouring out of the tail pipe. Light blue not quite white though. Engine was running fine. After letting it cool down a couple hours I restarted and the same thing started. Called the dealership and they took me in the next morning. Mechanic says he has seen this before and it sounds like a bad ground somewhere. I am no rocket scientist but if there is that much smoke pouring out of the tailpipe I would tend to believe that something in the engine( head gasket/cracked head) would be a more reasonable assumption. Having said that, the dealer has had the car for 2 days now and they still have not told me what the problem is! Only 40 k on it, certified pre owned...
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i have my 4 inch exhaust pipe cut just behind the rear of the cab right now with no muffler. If i cut it further up maybe jsut under the front seat or so what would this to the sound? would it make it deeper or louder?
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Actually developed a crack and subsequent leak in a pipe running lengthwise, so assume the factory weld over the years went bad. Since it would be a weld overhead, wonder what method would be best? Would oxy acetylene work or mig? I don't have a tig so that not an option for me.
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When backing out today I noticed a pretty bad scrapping sound. It went away so I assumed that it was just a trashcan lid that I had run over. Tonight my mom came home and noticed a panel on the street. After looking at this thread [URL] .... I identified the piece that fell off.
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I have had a rattle that lasts 2 seconds on my 2012 Elantra for the since about 2 oil changes ago. The car has 152,000 miles on it and I've changed the oil regularly per the maintenance schedule, although not always with a Hyundai filter.
I'm strongly suspecting that this is the timing chain tensioner, but I could be wrong. Other than this, the car runs fine. I tried having the oil changed by the Hyundai dealer with the OEM oil filter and the problem appears to be a little worse. It first started to appear on cold start up after the car sat for >8 hrs or so. Now, it appears on cold start up >2 hrs. I noticed that the dealer put 5W20 in it.
I'm wondering if lower viscosity oil makes the problem worse during hot weather. It seems when the weather is colder it takes longer for it to appear. I'm wondering what my options are here. I really don't know how much $$ it is to go after the tensioner and how critical it is - the dealer said they do replace them and that doesn't always fix the problem though I'm not sure what he meant. I have read a few other posts about tensioners here, but I'm also wondering if this is an issue with the new engine.
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I am the proud owner of a 2011 Hyundai Elantra GLS. After I bought this car (used), I have been having an issue with the exhaust. When you first start up the car, it idles and sounds great! But then as you put it in drive, well, that is when, what sounds to me like exhaust, rattle starts. you only hear it when you are on the gas or have a load on the engine (like A/C) at idle. It sounds like it is coming from the sound the left side of the engine (if looking at the engine from under the hood). Is there a way to fix it without taking it to the dealership?
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