Golf VI R :: Lope In Idle When Engine Is Warm
Oct 16, 2013
Here's what's done to the car so far:
Evoms CAI
Autotech HPFP Insert
UM Fully Loaded Stage 2
Magnaflow Catback
R8 Coilpacks
Now my problem lies in the fact that the car has an unusual "loping" idle once it's warmed up. I noticed it very slightly when I first installed the catback simply because that exhaust is louder than stock. Now with the tune it seems to be even more noticible and ocasionally the engine will stumble upon a warm startup. I've pulled up VCDS and looked at the timing measuring blocks during idle and it varies between 0 and 13.5 BTDC/ATDC, the lowest the revs go is about 700 and the the car idles most of the time at about 800. A few hundred miles ago there was a code for Fuel pressure too high (P0088) and an o2 sensor reading too rich (P2271), I saved said codes and cleared them and they have not returned.
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We have owned a 95 Camry V6 for 20 years and it has always been reliable. However, several days ago, the car started to have its first engine performance issue. When we start the engine cold, there was rough idle/engine lope. If it was warmed up for about 5-10 minutes, the car was fine for the entire day. but during this rough idle, the car jerked slightly as well if i press on the gas.
Since the symptom began, I took it to local shop A and they replaced all the spark plugs, pcv valve and air filter which did not solve the rough idle/looping problem. The rough idle continued, and few days later, I was unable to start the engine though it cranks. (at least that's what I think it does). Had it towed to shop B and they've replaced oil pump, which they thought to be the problem. I took it home, and the next morning I found myself unable to start the car.
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I bought a 1999 f350 v10 about a month ago took it on a 1200 mile trip from Arizona to Kansas. Truck ran great till I got Kansas. The truck started to lope after I got fuel at a fuel station. Did not get any check engine light on. I check for vacuum leaks did not find any. I change all the coil packs, spark plugs, IAC valve and fuel filter. Clean the intake and put sea foam in the fuel tank and the truck still idles rough. Change the egr vavle. Truck ran great till I got 10 miles down the road then the truck started to lope again. So I'm getting really frustrated over this truck.
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My 1999 escort 2.0L sohc is having idle issues. It idles perfectly after a cold start. When the engine warms up, the engine starts to lope, and often dies. I've searched for leaks and replaced parts that are the most obvious possible reasons. Also replaced some parts that were questionable. The head was cracked and the gasket blown. It was obviously like that for quite some time. There was only a leak between the coolant and cylinder.
So far I've replaced: fuel pump, fuel filter, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, water pump(trashed), thermostat, cts, radiator fan switch, head w/gasket, radiator cap, iac valve, ccrm, pcm/ecu, tps, cleaned maf sensor, cleaned intake, cleaned injectors, new injector o-rings, spark plugs, coil, checked and cleaned pcv valve. Knock sensor is ordered, and O2 sensor will be installed soon.
The loping goes away with the headlight and/or A/C on. The car previously would overheat without the cooling fan switching on, hence the cooling parts being replaced.
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I drive a 2000 Ex V10. My truck has been having an issue at idle after it warms up, almost every time after it sits and cools down.
My problem is that once the truck warms up, it will drop down to 500 rpm's and will have a hesitation/miss/lope for about 20 seconds. When it does this I can hear the exhaust making a sputtering sound. On two occasions during windy rain it would hesitate while driving but then straighten up within a half mile or so and be fine. I have changed all the boots, cop's and plugs and don't think that is where my problem is.
What I can't figure is why it seems to hesitate/lope once it warms up! This problem not related to a failing boot, plug or cop?
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I swapped transmissions in an 01 vr6 glx automatic car. The car will start and run perfectly until it reaches operating temperature. Once it hits 190 f it shuts down and will only start again if u wait a few minutes. It has me stumped. I have unpluged the coolant temp sensor, and Have checked for vacuum leaks and loose connections but no luck.
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Recently I have been experiencing some rough and low idles with my 1MZ-FE 05' Camry. The car runs idles perfectly fine and drops to the correct idle when cold, however if the engine has been running at normal temperature and started again soon after the idle drops extremely low until the throttle is opened.
I have cleaned the throttle body with with throttle body cleaner a number of times, although I haven't taken the IAC valve out and cleaned it separately. I have also heard that the Engine Coolant Temp valve may be going bad. Could my symptoms fit this?
I had a dodgy EGR sensor not long ago that was giving me rough idles on a cold start, however I managed to mitigate that problem a by cleaning simply removing the sensor and giving it a quick clean. I don't think that this is the cause but I can't be sure.
I haven't had the spark plugs or fuel filter changed in a while although I'm unsure that these would be the problem if the idle was rough and low only when the engine was warm.
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After almost 9 years, 130K miles on my 2000 GLX wagon 5-sp., for the last 6 months I'm noticing an increasing oily "smell" when at idle after the engine is warm. Other posts suggest it might be a leak in rear cam seals or valve cover gasket dripping small amounts of oil down on the exhaust system. There's been no visible oil leak when the car is parked and it does NOT "use" oil between every 5K changes. Is replacing the valve cover gaskets a job within the reach of a moderately experienced DIYer?
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Here's another idle problem. I have a 1992 aerostar, 3.0 2wd with 245,000 kms.
I have been working on this van for weeks now getting it ready for summer. I have done a complete tune up consisting of wires, plugs, rotor, cap, pcv and all filters including gas, air and oil. I have checked the vacuum hoses as best as I could and all seem fine.
Here.s the problem. I start the van and it idles great. The engine doesn't move. After a few minutes it slows down a bit and starts to shake. Once it is completely warm and has been driven for an hour, it shakes noticeably. It has lots of power and gets good mileage. It never has a starting problem and never seems to be close to stalling. I am suspecting it is one of the various pollution control items such as the MAF, IAC or 02 sensor. Is there a way to check them at home?
While under the van, I noticed a cable that goes from the transmission into the firewall. A bracket holding it in place broke and the cable was rubbing against the exhaust pipe and burned through. Could this be related? I taped up the cable and tied it up and away from the pipe.
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I have a 1999.5 jetta vr6, the CEL is on (p0102 MAF sensor circuit low or something like that...). When i start it up, it often dies really soon after and until its warm it will idle really roughly. I'll have to start it up between 5 and 15 times... Once its warm and about 190 F oil temp it runs just fine, but still has a slightly rough idle.
I have a new MAF sensor coming in, or if there are any other things i should check that might contribute to the problem.
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My car is not blowing warm air at idle when warmed up. When under load driving the heat comes back then chills down when stopped at a light or traffic. I did a coolant flush by fill and gravity drain earlier this summer and have had zero issues with overheating or anything else. Could there be air in the heater core or is my water pump or thermostat failing?
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I have a 1986 Celica GT-S with 50,000 original miles on it. Car starts perfectly fine in the morning, runs fine, no issues. Problem happens when the engine is warm, and I let it cool off for about 10 minutes or so, at that point, when I try and turn the engine over, it would sometimes turn over and idle very rough, or sometimes it would die and I have to give it gas to keep the engine running. Once I am able to get it in gear and drive, the engine rpm would recover and go back to normal. I have new NGK wires, denso iridium spark plugs.
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My 1994 volvo 240 stalls at idle when the engine is warm. It's happening more frequently as the weather gets colder, I'm not sure if that's a coincidence. The car is an automatic and I'm wondering if it could be something as simple as low transmission fluid.
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I purchased an '08 F150 about 6 months ago, and have a problem that two mechanics haven't been able to solve. The truck has a 5.4L engine. Unfortunately, I bought from an auction and the 30 day warranty expired before I realized the problem.
After a longer drive (30 minutes to work) the engine is warm, and I always back into my parking spot or driveway. In low gear, it begins to idle very rough and the engine shakes. If I leave it long enough, it will stall. Usually I pop it into neutral, give it some gas, and its fine. I just bought a camper trailer, so I'll need to use the lower gear when backing up.
So far, the engine has been flushed twice, the solenoid replaced and phaser replaced. The second mechanic has recommended I contact a dealer, but haven't had luck with them with my previous Explorer. What it could be? I will be getting the diagnostic paperwork this week.
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Morning are getting colder engine runs at 1100 to warm up OK I understand that. But after running around town and engine is warm, I checked again, still at 1100 RPM. Shouldn't it be lower or is that what the batteries need?
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I have a '03 Civic DX 5 speed. It has 128000 miles on it. I've notice now that it is getting colder, my engine ticks when it is warm - I can hear it at idle and low rpms, but not at higher rpms. It sounds perfect when it's cold, but once it is warm, it has a "tic-a-tic-a-tic-a-tica..." sound. Tom and Ray talked about a Dodge Dakota that made the same sound when the engine was cold (about 8 episodes ago). So what does it mean if it only does it when warm?
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98 Honda Accord with 2.3L has 354,000 miles on it and up until recently ran like it was still new. Have developed erratic idle speeds. When it is cold it idles around 1100-1200 rpm. When the radiator fans are on or the A/C compressor is on it runs around 800-900 rpm. These are normal speeds and great. However, when the engine is warm/hot, in PARK, radiator fans are off, and A/C compressor kicks off, the idle speed drops to what appears to be about a rough idling 500 rpm's and the engine can barely stay running. I've attempted to look for the obvious. I own the Honda Shop Service manual if there is a particular component or most likely suspect area I should start at.
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I got a 87 Toyota Celica 1600 GT, with a TVIS 4A-GE engine in.
My problem: when i just start the engine cold, it revs to 2500 RPM, and stays there for 1-2 minuttes and then falling to about 1500 RPM, and when the engine is completely warm my idle is about 1000 RPM.
first i think that 2500 RPM cold is a bit to much, and i dont know what to do with it. but my biggest problem is when the engine is fully warmed up, and i rev it to lets say 3000 RPM and then lets the gas of, the engine falls to about 500 RPM sometimes it stalls but if it not stalls then it would slowly gain some RPM and then it goes up to 1000 RPM again.
How can i prevent the engine falling that much when i let the gas off? it's quite annoying when i drive the car and comes to a stop it sometimes stall.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Echo 1.5. About a year ago the cel went off and on intermittently and I got a p0511 code. For the past few months, the light has stayed on steadily except for a 2 week period when it stayed off. When the cel is on , the car idles slightly low for about a second just after start up. When the engine is warm, it idles steadily about 400 rpm above normal idle. When the cel is not on, the idle is perfect both at start up and when the engine is warm. I did take off the IAC and cleaned it, but it already looked spotless inside and seemed to operate smoothly.
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Still showing the same codes (per repairman) and still having the intermittent rough idle at low speeds when the engine is warm. It has been so intermittent that I could almost live with it.
So repair guys first replaces the VCT's and runs fine until warmed up and the problem reoccurs with the same codes. He replaces both cam phasers and tensioners today and still same problem and same codes which point to the VCT and cam phasers.
Truck has 80k, city driven, oil changed every 3k or so. Burns ethanol and still runs great at speeds over 10 mph even when this problem appears.
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Have a lot more smoke from the tail pipe when they are running their tow tune vs their street tune? For me it seems like a lot especially right now being cold out but I still notice a haze at idle when the engine is warm. Also can smell a difference.
Getting a ficm tuner from php tomorrow so interested to see what that does for things.
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