Golf VI R :: No Start Up - Chattering / Clattering Sound On Push To Start
Aug 28, 2016
Today I tried starting my car (shortly after I drove it with no problems 2 hours earlier), and when I pushed the start button (holding it down firmly), it made this weird clattering-clicking noise (the dials on the cluster went haywire), but no noises were coming out of the engine, so there was not attempt to even turn the engine (wasn't the grinding noise from engine that you get if you don't hold down the start button firmly long enough). Thought it was the battery so tried to jump the car, but it wouldn't start immediately either. The AC/radio were all on while I was attempting to start the car - shouldn't be the case if the battery was dead???.
After about the 3rd attempt to start the car in the middle of the jump start, the engine started.
Anyways, got home, and then tried starting the car again and no luck. Does this sound like an issue with the battery (lights and AC and radio were all working fine), or perhaps the starter/push button? Has there been any recalls/TSB on anything related for the MKIV R?
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My 01 accent's engine makes a clattering sound(sounds a little bit like a diesel engine) when it's first started in the morning. After warming up (in about 20 seconds or so) the sound disappears. My oil level is normal(last oil change about 4k miles ago with full synthetic oil. I normally change oil at 5k intervals with full synthetic), timing belt changed about 1 year(20k miles) ago. Should I be worried?
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While working on diagnosing my center console issue last night, my engine refused to start & I am completely lost as to what the issue is.
I hear a buzzing sound when I hit the brakes and push the button to start.
But all my headlights lights & interior electronics work fine.
I am so irritated as this happens on the SATURDAY evening and everywhere is closed on Sunday; hence I can't get the car serviced.
This is a brand new car w/ less than 2600 miles on it.
YouTube ....
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I was playing with the paddle shifters while driving home and went into too high of a gear for my speed (I think 4th gear at only 20mph, 1000rpm). When I gave it some gas, I noticed a clattering/rattling sound coming from under the hood, along with the usual low growl/bogging you'd expect for being in too high of a gear. I quickly downshifted and the rattle went away and the car accelerated as normal.
Is this reason for concern? I only noticed this because I had my windows rolled down but worry I might accidentally damage something if I don't hear it or not pay attention.
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Santa Fe 2013. I bought it a few months ago and soon after a strange issue appeared from time to time. When I push the start/stop button it spins the engine but it wont start no matter how much I wait. Usually it start fine for the second time. This happens sometimes and sometimes not. About 2 months ago it didn't want to start for about 5-10 minutes no matter what I tried (push the button with the tip of the key), so I decided to go to a service station.
There they connected the car to a computer to check if there were any error codes logged. But they haven't find anything, after the second time I visited the station they replaced the battery in the key, told that maybe that was the problem.
I really don't know much about cars but it was a strange idea as I would expect the same behaviour when the battery is low than when the key is not present: Car not doing anything but displaying a message that the key is not present.
Anyway, it kinda worked, or I was lucky. For more than a month everything was fine, not a single issue. And today morning it started again. I brought my car to a hand washing, and after they cleaned the outside with steam they wanted to park the car inside the building to clean the interior, and the same issue occurred. And after that it happened with me as well several times this day.
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I have a 02 W8 with 24K miles on it. There is a loud clattering noise on cold starts. Sounds like it is from the valvetrain. Like a threw a lifter or something. It has been happening since 10K or so miles. I change the oil religiously at 3K miles or less (short commute) with Mobil 1 0-40. If I hold the key on awhile and prior to turning over, it sometimes makes much less noise. I am worried it is the cam tensioners after reading some other posts. Heard this is an $8K job. Would not want to do if the car is only worth $13K. I thought it was just the having no oil pressure at start up and since the oil is at the bottom.
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Having this rattling/clattering noise at start up? Mine is starting to become more and more common... (54k miles).
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I have a 1996 Pontiac Trans Sport 3.4L (without Passkey anti-theft) which on occasion won't start after being parked. The fault only happens when the vehicle has been sitting, it does not die while being driven (so far). The engine cranks normally but does not fire. The peculiar and significant thing about the fault is that the fuel pump relay (driven directly by the PCM), chatters at about a 10 Hz rate. Instead of receiving a steady 12VDC to keep it energized, it is receiving a pulse stream from the PCM.
The first few times this occurred, I heard the relay "chattering " under the hood , and was able to start the van by unplugging the relay and shorting the connector terminals for the contacts together with a wire jumper ( these terminals connect "hot at all times" 12VDC from the PCM fuse (orange wire) through the relay contacts to the fuel pump +ve). The electric pump would run and I could start the engine easily. By the time I arrived at my destination, the fuel pump relay 'drive' would be normal and I could plug the relay back in and continue normal operation.
The last few times this problem occurred, the van would not fire -- no spark as long as the relay drive was pulsing. When it would finally go back to normal operation of the relay, the engine would start OK.
Last Spring in cold weather I had the van towed 2 blocks to a Pontiac dealer with this problem. The problem resolved before they inspected it; however after the Technician's inspection the Service Advisor said there was no fuel pressure at the test port and that the pump must be deffective (shorted), overloading the relay causing it to chatter. That diagnosis made no sense to me. They wanted to replace the fuel pump as the solution ($600). I got past the Service Advisor and asked the mechanic to show me the fuel pressure -- the car started on the hoist when I tried it, and fuel pressure was normal (>30psi). I left with just the relay changed, as they thought the original would have burned -up contacts from excessive current to the pump. (I cut it open later and found its' contacts to be perfect). While at the dealership I asked the S.A. if he knew of any TSBs, or other incidences of this problem; he said he had not heard of this problem before.
I had the same problem one week later, but not again all summer until this Fall's cold and wet weather. I had to have the vehicle towed home and it still wouldn't start the next day. As soon as I accessed the PCM behind the glove box and jiggled it the relay chattering stopped and car could start. However, later the same day, still in the driveway, the fault was back and no amount of jiggling or other manipulations had any effect. Later still I went out to test for spark, and the fault was gone. (Cold, wet weather all day).
Vibration seems to have little effect. I have checked the PCM connectors' security and pulled, twisted and wiggled the wires coming from it, as mentioned above, to no effect. I suspect the fault is inside the PCM and is thermally induced by cold weather. The next time it happens I will try a warm hair dryer on the aluminum housing of the PCM. I wonder if there is a fix for this (repair a cracked solder joint, etc.) other than replacing the PCM. I work in electronics, and will open the PCM up and inspect it before forking out for a new one.
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We have a 2002 Maxima SE, 6 speed manual with 127,000 + miles. The noise is similar to what we used to hear from the spokes, when we attached a playing card or piece of cardboard to the wheels of our bikes. The noise only presents itself when the clutch is engaged and the wheels start rolling. It happens in forward and reverse.
The dealer replaced the right wheel bearing assembly and both outer tie rods. But that did not eliminate the noise. They then fingered the transmission. The transmission folks said it was not the transmission or the clutch release bearing.
Confused, we just keep driving the car. Whatever it is doesn't appear to affect the driveability - yet. The clutch engages smoothly, the shifing is smooth and it does not pop out of gear. We've been thinking of selling the car, but this noise has to be resolved first.
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I have a 1991 celica that I can not get to start. The car has the 3sfe 2.0 in it that I think came out of an 89 celica. We have put a new starter on this car, alternator, plugs, wires and distributor cap, battery and more onto this car. The car however will push start. When you turn the key everything comes on and it clicks. Nothing else happens.
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I have a 2005 Montana SV6 the problem is it wont start unless i push down on the gas also the remote start will start is 60% of the time when cold but if its warm it wont start both ways.
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The following day, the wagon didn't start in the shopping mall. Key in ignition, dash lights ignition on everything normal, push in to start, no response.
The battery's not the problem. The car was towed to a dealer by a very tired tow truck driver, it was unusually hot yesterday. Hottest August day we've ever had in history.
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I have a 2010 prius and I have to hold the key next to the push to start button. I took it to the dealer and they told me they had to change a smart key module and 2 new keys. I told them to do it. I picked it up and worked great, 2 days later the same thing happened.
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Can install a push button start feature on lower models of the Prius C? Example: I've been looking at C's but cost is a big issue. I figure I should wait to get a higher model with push start to get the whole Prius experience. The PC 2 is more in my price range, though.
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When i am driving more enthusiastically, i notice when i make, say, a 90 degree turn and then push the gas pedal down midway through the turn, i get a clunkish sound or a stutter. Its not loud and i can only feel it through the steering and through the car. It almost feels like it is shifting power to the rear, but i would think that it would do it smoother....
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At least once a week key locks up and won't push in to start vehicle. Dealer service stated this is a security issue when you bump into the steering wheel it locks up, told me to move steering wheel. It did start after doing this. This is happening at least once a week and I should not have to move the steering wheel every time. It is frustrating since the vehicle is 3 months old. Tried all keys, even valet key, nothing works, until I move the steering wheel.
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Getting the 3 lock push start to work ( ie clicking the lock button 3 times fast to remotely start the car)? I have only had it work twice. Enform remote works each time, but would like to have another option...
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Yellow triangle lighting up together with check engine light.
Also when turning it on display says to press brake and push power to start.
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I have a 2013 RLine 4mo and I'm still trying to figure out why I don't have keyless entry and push start since it seems like other trims have it.
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I need to get the push start button out so I can clean the electrical contacts. I've seen a DIY elsewhere online but it was for a push start button located in the steering column.
Does this involve removing the entire center console, or possibly just the shift boot and ring? It's a Tiptronic 4motion.
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I want to know which method is the more appropriate and safer option to start the engine with a push button. There are two ways:
Method 1) You get in the car, press the brake, push the button to START
Method 2) You get in the car, push the button till all the lights come on, wait for a few seconds, press the brake, and push the button to START
Which one is more recommended? Does either option have any affect on the mechanism and life of the Push Button function?
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