Golf VI R :: Rear Whine Sounds More Like Dump Truck Slowing Down When Go Over 45 Mph
Sep 29, 2016
So as the title states I'm getting a rear whine sounds more like a dump truck slowing down, anytime I go over 45 mph. I have an appointment tomorrow morning with VW to get it diagnosed and hopefully fixed.
I've checked and properly inflated my tires and there is still decent tread left. As far as I've seen it could be the rear diff or harmonic balancer.
I recently got my car tuned (apr stg I) and I'm lowered on neuspeed race springs with matched bilsteins. I doubt either of those would have any impact on my issue though.
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When operating in cold weather (below freezing) at highway speeds, the car produces a whiney/buzzy sound when slowing down to the park or get gas. the noise is very loud in the cabin, but hard to hear from the outside with the hood open. I assume the noise is there while driving but unheard over general road noise. Noise varies in pitch with engine rpm, and slowly dissipates as the car sits at idle (warms up?). Noise modulates with turning of the steering wheel, which makes me suspect PS pump, but could be anything attached to the serpentine belt. After being parked and I start it up again, no noise.
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I have a '97 Chev Blazer. I had transmission rebuilt. Not even a week after having this done, I start hearing a sound (that literally sounds like an airplane) coming from the front of the car. It ONLY happens when the car is going 45+ mph. When I slow down it gets louder & then you hear a "klunk' when you come to a complete stop. It then will stop until you get back up to that speed again. What in the world this could be? Someone suggested a 4WD problem. It is not the wheel bearings. I had new tires put on and checked right after this problem started. Could it have anything at all to do with the transmission that they rebuilt?
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So I have the dreaded rear diff whine, which started about a month (1000 miles) ago. I've read a bunch of the past posts, but still can't find a solution other than a) live with it, or b) spend $3500 for a whole new diff. (95k miles - no warranty) It seems the general consensus is that the problem stems from a loosened pinion nut. Is there no way to just tighten the nut? Or if I do will the whine continue because the gears are now worn? BTW I just had all the diff and tranny fluids changed. Made no difference.
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My rear diff had recently started to whine on decel, what I am looking to find out is, would replacing the stock rear diff itself with a peloquin unit be enough of a fix, or should the whole rear housing be replaced as well? I don't want to buy a peloquin rear diff and install it and still have issues because of the pinion shaft being the culprit or something else.
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I have a 2003 my04 accent, 1.6l, manual. I have 2 different noises coming from the engine bay. Iv'e got a video of one of them, you'll have to listen through headphones though to hear it properly, I'll post below. The noise will be echoed off the car shelter so bear with me. It sounds like a whine. You can hear it when I start revving it just after half way, and it is constant even when I am driving, becomes more noticeable as the RPM's climb.
The second noise I'm pretty sure is coming from the gearbox or surrounding areas. And it sounds like something grinding. It only happens if the car is straining I.e going up a hill in to high a gear. Or after I change gears and it sounds just before 2000RPM and fades out after 2200RPM . What could this be?
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My car is making a strange whine noise. It sometimes gets so loud and sounds like sort of the generic sounds for bad cars in movies where it is a high-pitched whine sort of scrape. It has been hot and dry here. I took it to the shop one day when it was rainy and cold. When I got to the shop it was not making the noise. We could not recreate it. They took a look and said I could swap my belts, spark plugs and top off fluids. I figured it might be my belts making the noise, so I got it fixed.
Imagine my frustration when I picked up my car and the noise was back. I had the mechanic come listen and he said he could hear it but it wasn't very loud so he wasn't sure. He said it could be the steering pump or something of that nature. The noise has gotten louder and I do not know what to do. It sounds like a high-pitch eeeee whine and simultaneous scraping. It happens more when I press on the gas, and not when the car is stopped. I can't tell if it is coming from the engine or the tire or the axel. It is toward the front of the car.
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I know how to activate the DAC, read the manual, it says shift to L, put in D, and press the DAC button. Keep it under 15 MPH and when you let go of the brake and gas it will maintain the speed, by engine breaking and breaking.
Here is the problem, followed the directions and the DAC light keeps flashing and the truck speed keeps on climbing no slowing down.
What should I look for? 2004 GX.
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Read a few references but nothing seems the same as what I have... 2001 Ford F150 Larite 5.4L 4 x 4
When slowing down, at speeds of 3 to 4 miles per hours truck starts to shutter. It is not an engine issue, nor a brake as it will occur with brakes on or not applied. Engine is running smooth, seems more mechanical that fuel or brake related. Shutter is not slight either.
Both CV axles, hubs, rotors and upper and lower A Frames have been replaced. Shutter was happening prior to the replacement, they were replaced as preventive maintenance. Shutter is profound enough to shake the mirrors. What it can be.
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When my truck is slowing down my manual transmission makes a knocking sound, but does not make the sound when accelerating. What could be the problem?
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I have a 1994 Ford Ranger Supercab with 180,000 miles, 4.0ltr 6cyl and it is in relatively good condition. When I bought the truck the check engine light was on. The previous owner said that it was something in the gas tank that has gone bad but it was not a big deal and the truck could be driven with no problems.
My mechanics have tried several times to read the error code but their diagnostic tool won't tell them what is wrong.
I have noticed over the past few days that when I am slowing down and riding the clutch (I was making a u-turn this morning) that the truck will shut off. It starts right back up but it keeps happening.
I have been considering replacing the IAC, new spark plugs, rotor and wires and fuel filter but I am not 100% this will fix my problem. I am NOT a mechanic but know plenty of them so it will be a situation where I buy the parts and a buddy puts them in.
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So about 3 days ago I made a long 9 hour drive. No problems at all but I did allow my fuel to get a little lower then I normally do. About eighth a tank had 30 miles left on the digital read out. Stopped and filled up at loves where I always get my fuel. And off I went drove it down to 3/4 a tank and made it to my stopping point. Got in to go about 7 miles down the road and come to a stop sign and slowing down the truck died. I thought crap I forgot to turn off the auto start but never done that before. Stopped and stared truck as normal. Made it to my stopping point again. Headed back to the house and doing on average 55mph and truck surges like it wants to die but doesn't.
Rpms drop below 500 and it keeps going I get to same stop sign and slowing down again doing maybe 25ish and truck dies again as I have my foot on the break. Put in nut and started it right up and drive on home. Today went about same distance. Only this time I started it with key and was doing down other things while letting it run it just dies start it back up and take off get to where I was going and it surged or hiccuped so to say. Again started it once I was getting ready to leave and let it run for about 5 min and it died had the heater on as it was chilly out by the lake. Got in and restarted it and it was blowing cold air and had a diesel smell to it. Wife asked me if truck was going to blow up. Backed out of area and put in drive and made it 80' or so and truck died again doing about 10mph
Checked so far
Batteries checked and both are good
No mods done to it
New ICP sensor and pigtail
New water pump
New injectors 20k miles ago
Oil changed 1100 miles ago
New filters upper sad lower
2003 Ford F-250 King Ranch 6.0
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Well i picked up a 96 4x4 with the 4.0 a few weeks ago and been fixing stuff weekly that i find wrong. One thing i noticed was the rear diff was leaky but couldn't get the fill plug out so left if for now. Last night my wife was on interstate and it just started making a loud noise so she pulls over calls me. I get there and drive it and it makes a woowoowoo noise and it got louder as speed increased. She was 3 miles from the exit so i drove it about 15-20 to get it off interstate than another 2 miles to her sisters. We let it sit for a few hours and found a flatbed to haul it home, and when we finally got home i drove it off the flat bed and now it was making a loud clunky noise. Parked it in drive till today. Cracked open the rear and no fluid came out.
Inspecting all the gears looked good no metal in bottom so i went and got a new rear cover and 3 qt. of fluid. Put it back together and the woowoowoo was still there but seemed to slowly go away as i drove it around the block. So what else could be going on here or do i need to drive it and warm up the fluid so it circulates? I also noticed a sheeee sound like metal on metal when braking but i changed all 4 rotors and both pads last week but i noticed the brakes in the rear that look like drum brakes was bare but i assume that is only for the ebrake so didn't bother changing them yet. Could those be hitting the inside of the rotor and making the metal to metal noise?
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This engine will not start unless we dump gas into carburetor. Changed the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel regulator. At the shraeder valve we are getting 20psi. I hear that it only needs to be at 10-12psi to run. What else is controlling fuel to being dumped into the engine!
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Car has less than 28k on it but the pump took a dump,luckily I noticed the coolant leak after my wife drove it and we caught it in time before it got hot.
She never looks at her gauges (except the fuel) and since I know there's no low coolant warning light in these cars,I'm on it like a hawk.
Couldn't find the proper Toyota coolant so I topped off with distilled water and what fluid I was able to recapture from the drip pan.
Had it towed to my mechanic,he diagnosed the problem and $600 later,he'll button her all up and we should be back in the drivers seat tonight.
Counting my lucky stars...could have been much worse.
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I just installed a gt2871 turbo and I'm experiencing fuel dump at higher rpms. It's just like it dies at the top. My buddy said I probably need new injectors.
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First off, I just traded another vehicle for a 97 mountaineer, 5.0 v8 AWD with about 171k miles on it. Runs and drives real nice, but on occasion under normal acceleration i get a slight shudder when it shifts into high gear. The tranny fluid does look and smell a bit old, but not burnt. I plan on changing it if you think it would fix the problem and not cause more.
Also, I think the ball joints are shot. The camber is in on the front tires and i get some pretty good clunks when I go over bumps in the road. Steering wheel is tight. I jacked it up and tried wiggling the tires but i couldn't get them to move like that. I'm assuming ball joints still though right? And if so, how hard of a job is that for a DIY'er?
Also i noticed a bit of a whine coming from under the truck when turning into my driveway. Transfer case I'm assuming? What could cause a slight whine and how do i fix it? I plan on changing the fluid in that too.
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I came out to my car to go to work and it sounds like a Mack truck idling roughly. I'm trying to get a hold of my mechanic to confirm the problem before calling the police and AAA and my insurance. He hasn't called back, so I'm dead in the water sitting in my car.
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The one on my truck sounds pretty wimpy. I don't use it a lot but it's supposed to get your attention... Mine., Not so good.
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2003 F150 SuperCrew 9.75". Today we got to tearing into my rear end on my truck. I was having a clicking noise from the rear end when slowing down from about 20mph. It was a constant click, click, click, click. It was driving me nuts. Well when I first tore the cover off to change the wheel bearings I found some metal pieces in the bottom of the rear end housing.
I did some researching and came to the conclusion it was the shims behind the side gears or the clutch packs. Well it turned out to be the clutch packs were totally shot!! The side gears and the spider gears were loose and kinda just flopping around!! I ended up changing the side gears and spiders gears, bought them as a kit through ford and then the clutch packs.
The job overall wasn't to hard at all. The hardest part was getting the spider gears spun into the carrier. Ford has a "special tool" that that compresses the clutches and another to hold the carrier through the splines in the gears so you can spin the carrier itself to spin the spider gears in. We ended up using the axel shaft itself and clamping it into a vise and setting the carrier on it to hold it from being able to spin.
We then took a piece of all thread and put it through the side gears and put washers on each of the side gears and nuts in-between them and then spinning the nuts up and down to compress the clutches. Basically what Fords "special tool" does. Then just spun the carrier with the pin that goes through the two spider gears and that was about it. Once we got that done it was all basically putting it all back together.
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My friend just bought a 2008 F150 5.4 110k, it ran great all day during all of the test drives, after he gets it home it has started acting up. Most of the time it runs great, but sometimes when you stop the truck the idle will drop down and the truck sounds like it is going to die but so far it hasn't actually died, it starts knocking really badly and runs very rough. If you let it keep running like that it sets P0340. If you rev the truck up it cleans up and sounds fine again and it will even drop back down to a clean idle most of the time. I swapped the cam sensors because it was easy and just to see and it didn't make a difference, I was hoping after switching the sensors the code would switch to the other head but it didn't.
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