Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: When Come To A Stop Sign And Slowing Down Truck Died
Apr 17, 2016
So about 3 days ago I made a long 9 hour drive. No problems at all but I did allow my fuel to get a little lower then I normally do. About eighth a tank had 30 miles left on the digital read out. Stopped and filled up at loves where I always get my fuel. And off I went drove it down to 3/4 a tank and made it to my stopping point. Got in to go about 7 miles down the road and come to a stop sign and slowing down the truck died. I thought crap I forgot to turn off the auto start but never done that before. Stopped and stared truck as normal. Made it to my stopping point again. Headed back to the house and doing on average 55mph and truck surges like it wants to die but doesn't.
Rpms drop below 500 and it keeps going I get to same stop sign and slowing down again doing maybe 25ish and truck dies again as I have my foot on the break. Put in nut and started it right up and drive on home. Today went about same distance. Only this time I started it with key and was doing down other things while letting it run it just dies start it back up and take off get to where I was going and it surged or hiccuped so to say. Again started it once I was getting ready to leave and let it run for about 5 min and it died had the heater on as it was chilly out by the lake. Got in and restarted it and it was blowing cold air and had a diesel smell to it. Wife asked me if truck was going to blow up. Backed out of area and put in drive and made it 80' or so and truck died again doing about 10mph
Checked so far
Batteries checked and both are good
No mods done to it
New ICP sensor and pigtail
New water pump
New injectors 20k miles ago
Oil changed 1100 miles ago
New filters upper sad lower
2003 Ford F-250 King Ranch 6.0
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I was driving home tonight and stopped at stop sign. I took off and truck died and coasted to a stop. I tried to start but all it does is theft light blinks really fast and will not turn motor over. I tried to reset pat by following procedure I found on internet. Still no start. I then unhooked battery cables and left off for 15 minutes then hooked up but still no start and blinking theft light. I also tried spare key and still no start. What else can I do. I had it towed to place that just bulletproof my truck. Truck has been running great. I did not want to leave it on the side off road in the middle of country all night.
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A couple months back I blew an EGR cooler. My mechanic replaced it and oil cooler, when I got the truck back it was using coolant and on cold days below 35 degrees it wont start without a little shot of ether. I took it back and mechanic found a pinched o ring.T he coolant problem is ok but cold starts not. Now today truck was running fine then as I was pulling out of a stop sign I couldnt get over 40 mph, I pulled over and then tried to go but no throttle response,then died and wouldn't restart .I have no way of scanning, no dash lights came on. I am wondering if this is related another o ring or gasket,hpop ,fuel problem??? just replaced all the injectors and ficm a little over a year ago.where should I start?
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Have a 2004 F250 crew cab with the notorious 6.0L.. ive noticed what i believe is my tranny or maybe torque converter.? What happens is when i back out the drive way and the go into drive, i hear and feel a rough loud clink down under even when im at a stop sign.. I am a first time truck and diesel owner due to my field of work. Also it has a rought time starting in the mornings or anytime the truck is completely cold. Then after it warms up it behaves like it should. also ill get on the throttle and when i come to a stop, the idle is rough and slowly comes back to normal. ...???
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Trying to troubleshoot a very intermittent (has happened on two different occasions during the last 1,000 miles) hesitation from a stop-light. I've been recording engine parameters (Torque application) on both instances as these have been during longer trips after a period of highway driving. 2004 Excursion, 112K miles.
This feels kind of like severe turbo hesitation (4 to 10 seconds trying to start out before it kicks in) but I don't think that's it. The turbo is a new PowerMax turbo replaced 5 months ago. VGT readings seem pretty normal. The EGR valve is new -- the first instance was with the old and the second was with the new. I've also recently replaced the EGR and Oil coolers (before this).
Here's what's interesting in the captured data though... Normally when I coast into a stop-light the indicated engine load stabilizes at about 40-50% and VGT moves to about 65% to 70% at idle. The two different times this happened (actually multiple times at stop-signs/light close to each other over 5 minutes or so for both of these), when I have coasted to the stop, the engine load increases from low values during coast-down (0% during freeway coast-down or 19-30% during other coast) up to 99.6% (or other similar high values) at idle and VGT seems to be full closed at 85%.
There is absolutely no response to the throttle in this situation for 5-10 seconds. I've either been goosing the throttle a bit or putting it neutral and revving it up first to get things going again. When it finally catches and starts accelerating with power, indicated engine load drops to 50-60% again and VGT opens up to 40-60% or so. None of the other parameters I've been capturing seem to read strangely during this that I recognize. No issues observed during cruise and power seems good. No pending DTCs or engine light.
Here's what the data points I'm capturing (once each second):
Boost
Calibration Input Volts
ECT
EOT
Fan RPM
FICM main volts
Fuel Injector pulse width
ICP
ICP Volts
IPR Duty cycle
RPM
Engine Load
MAP
Trans Temp
VGT Duty Cycle
EBP
EGR Commanded
EGR Error
Added today but not captured during these issues yet:
IAT
IAT2
Baro
Accel Pedal Position
Mass Airflow Rate
Mass Fuel Desired
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So the A/C compressor died on my truck. I am looking at replacing it myself and it looks rather tight in there. My labor manual says I have to pull the fan/fan clutch, fan shroud and right inner fender to gain access.
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2015 F350 6.7L, 43,000miles
My family and I were driving into West Virginia this morning when the reduced engine power message came up on the dash and the truck died. I coasted off to the side of the road as best I could and got out. Immediately I smell diesel fuel. I look under the truck and there is fuel all over the passengers side frame and when I keyed it back up fuel started spraying down by the right front wheel.
Pulled the fender liner back and saw a small rubber hose that looks like it came off of a tee fitting down by the egr components. I tried to get it back on but wasn't able to get it seated 100% and when I tried to restart it blew off again. Truck is completely stock and ran perfect right up until it died.
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Last friday, my truck died while running. I let it sit for a few hours, went out and it started right up. Went to get pizza for my kids and I got 5 blocks from my house and I barely had any power. Truck died again while getting pizza and had to tow it home. Now it will not start. I have checked fuses, taken apart the fuel pump on the motor and cleaned the water from it, added a fuel treatment and also did an old truckers trick with the fuel (10% gasoline). the truck will crank and make an attempt to fire but it will not start. I have 3 kids and this is my ONLY transportation. I need to get this thing running STAT.
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My truck died a few weeks ago on the highway had the hpop ipr valve and screen replace ran awesome for 2 weeks, shut it off ran into the store and it wouldn't start gave it a couple hours finally fired, started good the next 5 times go to start it the other day no start again, tried again 30 seconds later and starts trucks a 2006 with 226000km throwing no codes, I'm ready to go trade it off on a new one, where to start?
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I have a 06 f350 with 140,000mile and today I was driving to a buddy's house and the truck died on me as I was doing 45mph so I towed it home and check the codes I have 1 low icp pressure and 1 low icp during starting / cranking and 1 ckp out of range I think that how it's worded so I looked at the icp pressure and it's 0 and the desired is around 1000 and the volt is .56 and as far as the ckp the rpm are reading so I don't know what to do about that ? Could the STC fitting and dummy plug and standpipe o rings really go out on me like this ? Or am I missing something? I am also trying to track down a oil pressure gauge for the Icp fitting to check it
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I am working on an 2003 F-250 6.0l. The truck just died while driving. No restart. Plugged in my scan tool and I am not getting any High pressure oil. Is there anything other than the Hpop I should be looking at. I know it is a big job to replace the hpop so I don't want to overlook something simple.
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I have a 07 6.0 that won't start it died a few weeks ago while driving. Being a mechanic I've done numerous things to the truck in order to fix all the common 6.0 problems but can't figure this one out. It will crank and get oil pressure and fuel pressure but seems to not be getting fuel. The IPR valve isn't clogged I tried with 2 working valves nothing worked. Along with changing the ficm. The connections to the ficm are clean and all in tact. I have an edge evolution chip that isn't even showing any codes. Not sure what to try next since I don't have any codes to go off of.
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My wife was driving through the intersection when the truck died... Tried to start it again but no go, I had it towed home, and stared to troubleshoot.
I have a Scan gauge2 and these were the readings: FMP: 47.5, IPR: 84.71, SYC: 1, ICP: 0
I pulled the IPR (that was only a year old) and the screen was perfect. I had 11.5v at the plug for the IPR, and on the Ohms scale I was reading 1.8Mohms.
I went to the dealer and got a new IPR, and still no start. and the only change in the reading on the scan gauge was the ICP is now reading 56. The gauge on the dash is reading normal oil pressure, but I haven't checked actual Low-end oil pressure.
Last month I replace the HPOP, and 1 faulty injector. Now I thinking wire loom, defective new IPR from the dealership or the new HPOP has failed.
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Had just got done filling up with diesel, drove 1/4 mile and truck just died. Tried to start it and nothing. No power to edge tuner either. Fuse #22 20a under steering column blown (engine control). Replaced and keeps blowing. not sure what is causing it. Just another wrench to throw in my wedding week!
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So I have been fighting an electrical issue off and on since I bought the Excursion and I am at my wits end!
Put in 2 injectors. 1 in November and 1 last week. Thinking that it would fix my P0603 and the missing issue I was having. Plus the truck tossed a code for #4 and #5 injector. According to a snap on scanner and my AE the injectors were bad. The missing issues are gone, but I keep getting a p0603.
Go back to the middle of May. Truck died and refused to start. I put a fuel pump in it due to lack of fuel at one point thru the no starts. Shop had it 2 weeks and replaced the Cam sensor. Truck has been spot on for the last month zero issues.
Fast forward to today! Hooked up the trailer and loaded my tow tune. Check codes before hand and have a P132b code. Look it up and is a multitude of things to check. Clear code, tune the truck and head out for the weekend. Sat in traffic for 95 minutes to go 13 miles to the highway I needed to get to.
Driving the truck I had zero issues, until I got off the exit ramp to the campground. During the 2 hour drive I monitored a few pids on the scan gauge to see how things were on the truck after the work. The following are driving down the road at 2k RPMS 70 MPH give or take 5 MPH.
boost 7.3
map 22.9
EOT 225
FWT 211
TFT 163
CPM .28
ICV 1.9
VGT 57
IPR 37.3
CVI 4-5 (fluctuates)
SYNCH went to 0 when it died.
Truck shuts off and restarts right away and keeps running. I get to the campground and hook up the tuner to the truck and I have 2 different codes. My buddy the KAM P0603 and a new one Crankshaft sensor Pos A/ I can not remember what the code # was.
So after dropping 1500.00 on the truck the last 2 months, I am at a loss. The shop I took it to was a new place for me and I was not impressed. The lack of communication, 3 scratches on the truck and saying the truck had a miss and they didn't look at the injectors at all.
The 2 options I have are 45 miles away or 100 miles away. After today I believe it is an electrical issue and would rather spend a weekend of my time trying to find it. Where are the known chaffing points on the 03' 6.0L.
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On way way to Florida and got 5 hours away and after the truck ran flawlessly for 5 hours it all of a sudden started billowing smoke, lots of knocking, and died. Now the engine won't turn over, tries to but acts like it's stuck. No codes...Accidentally crushed the cord on my CTS so no way to read codes. Just did studs and injectors
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My 2012 f250 is been acting weird, usually the truck is boosting while on gear when I'm at a stop (around 0.40) I think that's normal on a 6.7 because it's always done it, but since yesterday I noticed it sounds different and it's not on boost anymore it just vacuums while on gear at a stop (around -0.25) I'm thinking it's the wastegate solenoid but I'm not 100% sure, and the truck doesn't boost as fast as before but it drives fine and I'm actually getting better gas mileage since it doesn't boost as before, what it could be? It's tuned and deleted....
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So this morning on my way to work its pouring. Drive 30 min and while slowing down at the last stop sign the car stalls. Car wont start anymore. Not even trying to turnover. Damn TB must have snapped.
So I ended up pushing the car into my works parking lot. Luckily rain stopped by lunch time. I popped open the driver side TB cover just enough to see if the belt. The belt did not seem to have snapped. I was able to push down on it with some force. There was definitely tension on it. So I ask my buddy to try and start it. I could see the belt turning. Tried a second time to start and this time I would even hear the starter. all it would do is a clicking sound.
Is it possible the belt is really broken? I'm now thinking it might have jumped a tooth or something and now all my valves are bent. Car has 140k km. Previous owner said it was changed but could not provide any proof. I guess my question: is there anything else that would cause TB Failure symptoms. I mean the car stalled out. How could it not be the TB...
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We have a 2012 Santa Fe Limited V6 AWD. Currently it has 17,400 miles on it. It's my wife's daily driver and has been a great vehicle. Last week while she was coming out of Target and slowing down for a stop sign she felt a "shudder" as it downshifted from 2nd to 1st. Then as she was coming up to a stop light it did it again. So, she came home and told me about it.
On the highway coming home she said it was perfectly fine but stopping at the stop sign on the off ramp it did the shudder. And so I took it out for a test drive to go get the mail. I noticed that it would shudder on the 3-2 and 2-1 downshifts. On the up-shifts it was perfectly fine. Then, I noticed as I was rolling forward at about 1-2 mph waiting for someone to cross the street the car was rolling like one of it's wheels or axles was bent. Any faster than that and you can't feel it and again at highway speeds you can't feel it at all. It's glass smooth.
Soooo, we bring it in to the dealer and they say we bent the front drivers side axle shaft. WHAT!? How in the world would we have bent that? They said we probably hit a big pot hole but it's under warranty and that they will have to order the part and to bring it back the next week. We drive it for another week and the shudder is getting worse and at this point I'm pretty sure the trans is toast. But still, on the highway it's perfectly fine.
We bring it back in to have the axle shaft replaced and they say it will be about 2 hours. And so we go on our merry way trying to kill some time. About 1.5 hours later we get a call asking us to come back in because they need to get us a loaner.
Apparently as the tech was trying to spin the drive-shaft to line up the splines in the trans with the axle shaft he couldn't turn the drive shaft even though it was in neutral. There was a spot in the rotation of the transmission and drive-shaft where it would spin freely like it should and then it would hit that spot and was almost "un-turnable". They think that is what bent the axle shaft.
So, they are going to tear apart the transmission and transfer case to find out what the problem is but most likely going to have to end up replacing one of them anyway.
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Will I wear out the transmission using the engine brake to slow down faster when coming to a stop at a stop sign or light, then shifting back into D when taking off? Should I just always leave it in D unless I am driving down a steep hill?
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So from what I have gathered online, it is an injector(s) issue. I've only had it happen to me twice at that speed but when I came to a stop afterward, my truck was barely idling.
I'm not sure if my sct programmer is able to show injector codes but it will show gp codes. I guess my question is are failing injectors that intermittent typically? Also, much luck with Rev X clearing that issue up?
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